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First water cooled rig is getting too hot - Page 2

post #11 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lexer View Post

This probably will not improve your temps but your loop can look better ... IMO
The radiator doesn't fit if I flip it (at least not without drilling new holes for the screws). There is definitely potential for optimization, but unless it helps with my heat problem, I'll deal with that later.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lexer View Post

Tilt the case in all directions carefully with the fill port open to remove air from the loop
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

Tip your case all around, tap on tubes and rad to "persuade" air bubbles to break lose, etc...
Will try, thanks!
Do I need to open the reservoir for that? Wouldn't the air from the rad simply end up in the reservoir?
Because that is full and I would have to drain it, to tilt the case without spilling :/
Edited by nicktamere - 9/27/16 at 6:34am
post #12 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktamere View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

Sounds like the rad isn't full or loop is vapor locked.

Could you explain what I would have to do to fix that? I'm sorry, I'm absolutely new to water cooling.
Tip and or shake the case with the pump running for a few minutes. Then shut off the pump and wait as few minuter, then keep doing it again until no more bubbles appear in the res. That dislodges any air bubbles caught in the system.

Better fans would help.

Martin's Liquid Lab.
It's the 120 mm version of the rad, but still applies.

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post #13 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktamere View Post

The radiator doesn't fit if I flip it (at least not without drilling new holes for the screws). There is definitely potential for optimization, but unless it helps with my heat problem, I'll deal with that later.

Will try, thanks!
Do I need to open the reservoir for that? Wouldn't the air from the rad simply end up in the reservoir?
Because that is full and I would have to drain it, to tilt the case without spilling :/

The bubbles will end up in the res, and break off from there over time. Just crack the fillport, shouldn't lose much water.
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post #14 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktamere View Post

The radiator doesn't fit if I flip it (at least not without drilling new holes for the screws). There is definitely potential for optimization, but unless it helps with my heat problem, I'll deal with that later.

Will try, thanks!
Do I need to open the reservoir for that? Wouldn't the air from the rad simply end up in the reservoir?
Because that is full and I would have to drain it, to tilt the case without spilling :/

If you don't open the reservoir is much harder to remove the bubbles, take some water from the reservoir with a syringe or leave the fillport parcial open so only the air can escape
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post #15 of 75
Thread Starter 
Ok, here's what I tried:
Tilting and shaking the case, restarting the pump again and again, knocking on all the cooling components to get the air to come out of the system.
At first with the reservoir lid still on, but I couldn't see (or hear) any effect, so I took the lid of, drained a bit of fluid, did all of it again.
Nothing.
Booted the PC to make sure and no changes to the temps.

I took off the cpu cooler, cleaned off the paste, used a different one, used a little less, reattached the cooler.
To do so, I put the case horizontally on my desk and when I stood it up again, I saw that the reservoir looked full again (even after I had just drained a bit). When I turned the PC on, it emptied quickly again and I could hear a flushing(?) sound from the other components. So I'd wager that the radiator was full before, that's why I couldn't get any more air to come out.

After booting the temperature was again jumping between 30C and 50C per core.

I was kinda frustrated and went to get sth to eat, when I came back, the temperature had settled to ~25C.
I ran prime95 and after a few minutes the temperature rose to the low 60s where it seemed to stay, so I started to write this post and when I check again it had risen to 90° and which point I cancelled the stress test.

I kind of expected the cpu block or the pipe leading away from it to feel hot to the touch, but it's not even uncomfortable to touch. It feels slightly higher than room temperature. Is that normal? Or is that already a sign, that the heat doesn't transfer from cpu to the cooler?
post #16 of 75
In a correctly functioning WCing system the water temp is pretty much the same everywhere in the loop.
It may vary between 0.25° and 1° degree, typically a half of a degree, non of which you can discern by touch.
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post #17 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

In a correctly functioning WCing system the water temp is pretty much the same everywhere in the loop.
It may vary between 0.25° and 1° degree, typically a half of a degree, non of which you can discern by touch.
Yeah, I've read that before and it makes sense.

But that's not what I meant: How can the cooler feel "cold" if the cpu is cooking at 80°-90° ?
post #18 of 75
Can I see a bigger picture of this setup bad the one picture looks to have something wrong going from reservoir to the pump. Also have you used this cpu before and what were the temps
    
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post #19 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktamere View Post

[How can the cooler feel "cold" if the cpu is cooking at 80°-90° ?
There's only one possible reason, The heat isn't getting into the water.
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Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
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2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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post #20 of 75
Did you remove the plastic from the cpu block?
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