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New system, trying to get 4.3 to 4.4ghz stable (AMD FX 6300)

3K views 73 replies 8 participants last post by  KarathKasun 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

I tried following this video tutorial on YouTube...but that wasn't working out for me. (Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9uXysmgPi8)

Basically I'm just trying to do a simple overclock, where I can keep the stock ram timings (if possible). Ideally I'd like to get 4.3 or 4.4ghz stable, nothing too crazy. The method shown in the video caused some failures in Prime95 on both "small FFT" and "blend" modes. A few times I brought the Vcore up to 1.4 or a little over, running at 4.4ghz, and Prime95 would freeze as soon as I'd begin a test. I also played around with the ram voltage, brought that up no higher than 1.65V...and still had the same outcome.

I use CPUID HWMonitor for checking temps and voltages. Prime95 is my stress testing app of choice.

Can you guys help me out with this, I'm still fairly newbie at overclocking.


System specs:

AMD FX-6300
GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3P (REV. 2.0)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti FTW Edition
CORSAIR 16GB (4 x 4GB) Vengeance DDR 1600
CORSAIR 520W HX Series PSU
Seagate SATA 1TB Desktop HDD
Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed Case
Corsair H60 CPU Cooler
 
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#3 ·
#4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

EDIT: Ok, so I decided to stop the prime 95 test because it was pushing 72 Celsius. Was running for almost 20 mins on the "small FFT" setting, and no errors. I'm assuming I need to drop the Vcore down a bit, but how much roughly?

Lower it by .05v...so set it to 1.40v.

Also, I think Blend is a more appropriate test since it incorporates your memory.

Edit: If it's stable at 1.40v, continue to lower it to 1.35v. If it's stable at 1.35v continue to lower it. If it becomes unstable at any time, increase the voltage by one notch and try again. <- overclocking in a nutshell.
 
#5 ·
I just realized that I'm contradicting your original 1.40v Prime 95 failure.

You have a few options at this point:

Lower your multi to 4.3GHz and try testing at 1.40v

or...

Slowly (one increment at a time) lower your voltage from 1.45v (1.44, then 1.43, etc.) and hope that you find a money spot where 4.4GHz is stable and doesn't overheat.
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I will give that a try and report back with the results. Thanks
Welcome to OCN!

You could also look through here http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard
While it does say for Asus mobo the basics are the same. There is a lot of good info in this thread.

You may want to give this a read as it'll help those that are trying to help you after reading the OP http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

When I start a new OC I'll start with CPU VID and CPU/NB VID values found in HWInfo64 (free) using default clocks with turbo disabled.
Be sure to disable all power saving, especially APM before starting to OC.

Even though you're running a 6xxx (bigger problem with 8xxx) you've removed the air flow over the VRM HS when installing the H60. Not sure how well the H60 will hold up.
You'll need to add active cooling to replace it. An old case fan and zip ties works, even running the OEM HS fan will help but is usually a little louder.

If Socket temps become an issue add active cooling to the back side of the mobo over both CPU and VRMs can help a lot. I'm not sure where your temps have been so far and doubt this is necessary at this point but something to consider as you raise the clock or attempt your first 24 hr run of P95 Blend
biggrin.gif
Edit: now I see your temps,
eek.gif


For testing the OC in the early stages I recommend IBT AVX version found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
Not that it's a better test but it will find instability faster in the early stages which can save you some time.
I start with passing 10 runs set to Very High than go for a 20 run pass set to Maximum. Than I consider the OC is ready for Prime95.

HWInfo64 does display Average for all values as well which helps.
to view full screen click image than in lower right hand corner click "Original"
 
#7 ·
I was running IBT with this these settings, and had this happen.

multiplier to 22
Core voltage to 1.43v
RAM to XMP
Advanced CPU features: disable CPU Unlock, C1E, C6, APM, Cool n Quiet
LLC to medium

 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I was running IBT with this these settings, and had this happen.

multiplier to 22
Core voltage to 1.43v
RAM to XMP
Advanced CPU features: disable CPU Unlock, C1E, C6, APM, Cool n Quiet
LLC to medium

That's odd. You passed 10 passes and that's how it ended?

I guess try running with admin privileges? I don't think I've ever seen that before.

Edit: Your VRMs are also getting pretty toasty...typical for a Gigabyte board (VR T1 & VR T2). Voltage Regulating Modules (VRM's) are, for lack of a better description, like little power supplies for your processor. They convert your PSU's 5v to the 1.2-1.5v that your processor runs on. You have a heatsink next to your CPU socket that cools them off. Consider putting a fan right on that heatsink. You're pretty safe at anything under than 80c.
 
#9 ·
Looks like it passed, yep. Will run it again
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post

That's odd. You passed 10 passes and that's how it ended?

I guess try running with admin privileges? I don't think I've ever seen that before.

Edit: Your VRMs are also getting pretty toasty...typical for a Gigabyte board (VR T1 & VR T2). Voltage Regulating Modules (VRM's) are, for lack of a better description, like little power supplies for your processor. They convert your PSU's 5v to the 1.2-1.5v that your processor runs on. You have a heatsink next to your CPU socket that cools them off. Consider putting a fan right on that heatsink. You're pretty safe at anything under than 80c.
Ran it again, and it passed. Temps are definitely high though eh? Should I try dropping the Vcore to below 1.43?

 
#10 ·
It does happen like that, some have seen improvement using admin priv as mentioned, but from what I've seen it's more common to be a sign of instability.
IBT will also give you a passing test window even though the "Results" value is a negative #, another sign of instability. IBT is old as dirt but still useful.

A couple questions,
what is fan arraignment
number of fans (only see 4 in HWinfo)
is H60 intake?

Was your previous OC stable? Not sure this was mentioned or not. If so how stable.
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

Looks like it passed, yep. Will run it again
Ran it again, and it passed. Temps are definitely high though eh? Should I try dropping the Vcore to below 1.43?

Yep. The whole idea is to find the lowest voltage that is still stable. Keep lowing it until it doesn't pass...and then up it one notch (so it's stable again).

You found valuable information though. At 1.45v your board/cooling hits its thermal limit. 60C is about as high as you want to go on that 6300. Still, consider putting some fans on the VRM heatsink. It's just safer that way.

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c2/500x1000px-LL-c2f4c78f_ViewTop_zps59yt5pna.jpeg
 
#12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post

Yep. The whole idea is to find the lowest voltage that is still stable. Keep lowing it until it doesn't pass...and then up it one notch (so it's stable again).

You found valuable information though. At 1.45v your board/cooling hit's it's thermal limit. You could probably go higher if you put some fans on the VRM heatsink:

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c2/500x1000px-LL-c2f4c78f_ViewTop_zps59yt5pna.jpeg
I do have a 120mm fan that I could maybe mount as an intake, pulling air through the top of the case above the VRM. Only problem is I don't have an more free fan connections on the mobo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sandman View Post

A couple questions,
what is fan arraignment
number of fans (only see 4 in HWinfo)
is H60 intake?

Was your previous OC stable? Not sure this was mentioned or not. If so how stable.
Fan arrangement, H60 is setup as intake SYS_FAN1 (see rig pics). one 140mm and one 120mm (relocated after installing the H60) in the front of the case for intake. One of the four fans that you see shown on HWinfo is the H60 block, got that plugged into the CPU_FAN connection on the mobo. Regarding the previous OC, no it wasn't stable. The last pic I posted is the most stable result so far.
 
#13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I do have a 120mm fan that I could maybe mount as an intake, pulling air through the tio of the case above the VRM. Only problem is I don't have an more free fan connections on the mobo.
Fan arrangement, H60 is setup as intake (see rig pics). one 140mm and one 120mm (relocated after installing the H60) in the front of the case for intake. One of the four fans that you see shown on HWinfo is the H60 block, got that plugged into the "CPU fan" connection on the mobo. Regarding the previous OC, no it wasn't stable. The last pic I posted is the most stable result so far.
Well, you're on the right track now. Cool it down. The Sandman will likely (and has already) given you some good advice on cooling.

The good news is your stable enough to play some games....at least in my opinion. Everyone's opinion about what a "Stable OC" is varies a bit, but I consider a Very High IBT AVX pass good enough.

Edit:

To clarify...
60c is the maximum temp for your CPU
80c is the maximum temp for your VRM's, but they will operate higher (obviously haha)
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post

Well, you're on the right track now. Cool it down. The Sandman will likely (and has already) given you some good advice on cooling.

The good news is your stable enough to play some games....at least in my opinion. Everyone's opinion about what a "Stable OC" is varies a bit, but I consider a Very High IBT AVX pass good enough.

Edit:

To clarify...
60c is the maximum temp for your CPU
80c is the maximum temp for your VRM's, but they will operate higher (obviously haha)
I'll drop the Vcore down a notch and re-test with IBT. Which temperature reading is the north bridge on CPUID/HWinfo64?

As far as the top mounted fan for the NB goes, I won't be able to fit a 140mm in there unfortunately, due to the HL60's rad being in the way. A 120mm is all I can do, would that suffice? There's a lot of different RPM ranges on fan too, so it's a bit overwhelimg to look at. This particular fan won't be hooked up to a motherboard connection, seeing as how they're all occupied. I have an older version of this fan lying around that I could use (http://store.antec.com/enclosure-fans/truequiet-120.html), but I'm wondering if I should get something different? I've become a corsair fanboy just recently, so I'm looking at their line of fans.

Edit: something like this http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-ml120-pro-120mm-premium-87-131618.htm

My case has the option to mount TWO 140mm or 120mm fans on the top for intake/exhaust or if you're using their big H100 series liquid coolers.

 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I'll drop the Vcore down a notch and re-test with IBT. Which temperature reading is the north bridge on CPUID/HWinfo64?

As far as the top mounted fan for the NB goes, I won't be able to fit a 140mm in there unfortunately, due to the HL60's rad being in the way. A 120mm is all I can do, would that suffice? There's a lot of different RPM ranges on fan too, so it's a bit overwhelimg to look at. This particular fan won't be hooked up to a motherboard connection, seeing as how they're all occupied. I have an older version of this fan lying around that I could use (http://store.antec.com/enclosure-fans/truequiet-120.html), but I'm wondering if I should get something different? I've become a corsair fanboy just recently, so I'm looking at their line of fans.

Edit: something like this http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-ml120-pro-120mm-premium-87-131618.htm
You don't really need to worry about the NB. You need to cool the VRM's. If you have a 120mm laying around definitely give it a shot. It doesn't need to be a huge fan, just something to get air moving over the heatsink.

How many exhaust fans do you have in your case, and where?

VRMs:
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyImperial View Post

You don't really need to worry about the NB. You need to cool the VRM's. If you have a 120mm laying around definitely give it a shot. It doesn't need to be a huge fan, just something to get air moving over the heatsink.

How many exhaust fans do you have in your case, and were?
Sorry, I meant VRM...got the two confused for a sec lol. This may sound really stupid, but the way things are setup, (as you can see in the case pic in my last post), I don't have any dedicated exhaust fans. Being that it's how Corsair recommend installing the H60, as an intake rather than an exhaust setup. From what I understand, you can switch that around depending on your case ventilation/airflow. Perhaps that would be better in my situation? Right now the hot air is venting out of the top and side panel of the case, where the fan cutouts are.
 
#17 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I do have a 120mm fan that I could maybe mount as an intake, pulling air through the tio of the case above the VRM. Only problem is I don't have an more free fan connections on the mobo.
Fan arrangement, H60 is setup as intake SYS_FAN1 (see rig pics). one 140mm and one 120mm (relocated after installing the H60) in the front of the case for intake. One of the four fans that you see shown on HWinfo is the H60 block, got that plugged into the CPU_FAN connection on the mobo. Regarding the previous OC, no it wasn't stable. The last pic I posted is the most stable result so far.
Location of H60, understood it's intake but where is it mounted?
biggrin.gif
Inside case in rear exhaust fan location as intake?
If yes, I'd still mount a fan directly onto VRM HS and realize the center hub of fan is a dead spot so offset mount location to accommodate.
This does two things, cools the VRMs and helps limit the heatsoak your passing onto the Socket area. It can use whatever air is in the case. The upper fan mount would be better off as an exhaust (if you don't have one now)

Reason I asked about previous OC stability,
It's always better to start with a low OC that is stabilized. This gives you a stable starting point. Max turbo speed is a nice first OC. This usually isn't to tough to do (unless you have a 9590 lol).
The advantages of this slower, more time consuming method is in the end you'll spend more time having fun and learning your systems requirements and less time guessing at what's causing instability.

When one simply throws a voltage in the system based on what someone else has is usually less than optimal. I've seen this way too many times.
There is only one way to find out "your" systems optimal settings, start with VIDs and memory manually entered (completely) and shoot to stabilize something easy, for starters.
Once stabilized than start with more multiplier increases and add voltage only when necessary.

You may be surprised, example my 9590 has a CPU VID of 1.475 for 4.7/5.0GHz turbo and runs 24 hr stable at 5117MHz @ 1.488 to 1.500 (1.512 full load)
I've noticed over the years how lately everyone seems to forget this method above and usually seem to end up with mediocre OCs. Heck now-a-days very few even run Prime95 and can't figure out why they can't pass it lol.

Just thought I'd mention this, in my sig rig I run two 360s and one 140 rad all as intake with a single 140mm exhaust fan, there's pics in my sig.
 
#18 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sandman View Post

Location of H60, understood it's intake but where is it mounted?
biggrin.gif
Inside case in rear exhaust fan location as intake?
If yes, I'd still mount a fan directly onto VRM HS and realize the center hub of fan is a dead spot so offset mount location to accommodate.
This does two things, cools the VRMs and helps limit the heatsoak your passing onto the Socket area. It can use whatever air is in the case. The upper fan mount would be better off as an exhaust (if you don't have one now)
Yes, please see the pics attached in my previous posts! Now is there fans specifically made to mount to the VRM? That's what I'm getting from how you're wording it, but I haven't seen these (if they exist?)
 
#19 ·
Whatever you have will work, nothing special required. Just have to play around to get one to fit is all. Zip ties work great to hold them in place and gives you the option to try different angles/locations etc
It can take a little to find that sweet spot but you'll find it, it ain't rocket science lol.


What I was trying to get across is fresh air for the VRMs isn't ness, only a fair amount of air blowing directly onto them.
Try your stock HS fan if nothing else.

As for behind the mobo Scythe makes a few 120x15mm fans if there's no room for a 25mm thick fan.
If you upgrade that rad fan nothing better http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html
there is also a 2150rpm PWM model too.
 
#20 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sandman View Post

Whatever you have will work, nothing special required. Just have to play around to get one to fit is all. Zip ties work great to hold them in place and gives you the option to try different angles/locations etc
It can take a little to find that sweet spot but you'll find it, it ain't rocket science lol.


What I was trying to get across is fresh air for the VRMs isn't ness, only a fair amount of air blowing directly onto them.
Try your stock HS fan if nothing else.

As for behind the mobo Scythe makes a few 120x15mm fans if there's no room for a 25mm thick fan.
If you upgrade that rad fan nothing better http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html
there is also a 2150rpm PWM model too.
Ok, gotcha.

It's hard to tell from my pics in post #14, but there really isn't much room in between the rad and cooling block to stick a fan there, it'd have to be really small. Like the size of the one on the stock heatsink as you mentioned. I'll be looking into a single 120mm fan to setup as a top mounted exhaust. Instead of having it blowing down on the VRM/CPU area, it would be better set as an exhaust fan? All the heat seems to be coming from right in that area anyways. I don't know why I completely disregarded the whole exhaust fan thing till now, just didn't think much of it seeing as how corsair suggests setting up the H60 as intake, and how my case has an all mesh top panel, but really even though that hot air is venting, there's nothing really to push it out.
 
#21 ·
My thinking tells me yes, the upper as exhaust. Will also help to pull some cool air from the front fans and lower case to where it's needed GPU and VRMs.
Hot air tends to collect in the upper rear of most cases, but it also goes where you push it! Might as well be pushing it out of the picture.

Also, after installing said upper fan check that the second unused fan location is not allowing air to simply re-enter the case. If it stays the same and is still exhausting on it's own than I'd leave it that way but if it does allow air back into case then try covering that opening and test temps that way.

One last thought might be an external mount for H60 blowing away from the back of the case and return fans to a more normal direction inside the case or maybe trying a top mount for H60 with or without additional fan but returning the rear fan mount to exhaust. You'll have to play a bit to see what works best.

Here is another members method for VRM fan which might work better for you http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2214728/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
 
#22 ·
I'm wondering if it's worth going with two fans for exhaust on top? It's almost cheaper to go with a twin pack, than it is with a single (when it comes to the corsair stuff). Something like this one: http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-air-series-af120-quiet-b0-70455.htm

It states under requirements "A motherboard with an available standard 3-pin fan connector", so do they connect together and only use the one connector somehow? I would think they'd need a connector for each. Regardless though, I'm going to need a splitter or two

EDIT: Some news regarding my overclock. I dropped it down to 4.3ghz, and was able to get it stable at 1.38750v. I ran IBT once on "very high" stress level 10X, and prime 95 for exactly 1 hour on "Blend" mode. The temps from the prime test are shown in the pic below. Any lower on the voltage, and IBT/prime 95 will give errors.

 
#23 ·
One thing to keep in mind with fans is when you see the words like Quiet or Silent in the tittle they seldom move much air.
I usually go with something a little more performance oriented and avoid the above as they usually end up sitting on a shelf unused.

I run a Corsair 330R with a FX6350/Hyper 212 on a Asus M5A99FX Pro Rev2 at default settings for my Plex server. (Bruce in rig sig)
Stock Corsair fans work fine while running default settings but no way would I OC with them. Simply not enough air movement.

You may be better off with something like this http://www.ncix.com/detail/cougar-vortex-120mm-hydro-dynamic-23-69266.htm for an exhaust.
As for connecting to mobo have a look here http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g2/c251/s635/list/p1/Cables-Fan_Cables-3_Pin_Y-Page1.html
Bare in mind these are for 3 pin fans and there is also 4 pin splitters for PWM too.
 
#24 ·
Really wish I could get a 140mm fan in there, as they generally have a higher CFM, for obvious reasons. Stupid H60 is in the way though! I'd go with the cougar, but being on back order I'll probably end up getting something else. I don't plan on pushing past 4.3 (even though I'd like to), seeing as how my voltage/temp situation gets.

4.3ghz is still decent in my books, any significant performance gains would probably come with a higher end GPU versus CPU overclocking anyways.
 
#25 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

Really wish I could get a 140mm fan in there, as they generally have a higher CFM, for obvious reasons. Stupid H60 is in the way though! I'd go with the cougar, but being on back order I'll probably end up getting something else. I don't plan on pushing past 4.3 (even though I'd like to), seeing as how my voltage/temp situation gets.

4.3ghz is still decent in my books, any significant performance gains would probably come with a higher end GPU versus CPU overclocking anyways.
I depend on the sound level that you can stand. There are some bad a** 120mm fans out there. I have some that I bench test on a H100 and they kick butt. I can easily drop 15c off of stock fans on the H100.
 
#26 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLastHero View Post

I'm wondering if it's worth going with two fans for exhaust on top? It's almost cheaper to go with a twin pack, than it is with a single (when it comes to the corsair stuff). Something like this one: http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-air-series-af120-quiet-b0-70455.htm

It states under requirements "A motherboard with an available standard 3-pin fan connector", so do they connect together and only use the one connector somehow? I would think they'd need a connector for each. Regardless though, I'm going to need a splitter or two

EDIT: Some news regarding my overclock. I dropped it down to 4.3ghz, and was able to get it stable at 1.38750v. I ran IBT once on "very high" stress level 10X, and prime 95 for exactly 1 hour on "Blend" mode. The temps from the prime test are shown in the pic below. Any lower on the voltage, and IBT/prime 95 will give errors.

Hey that's pretty great. You even have a little thermal overhead, which is nice when summer rolls around.

I wonder what your Cinebench R15 score is now...I'm really curious what 92 watts will get you, that's almost exactly 90W less than what my 8350 pulls @4.7GHz. If it's anywhere near 500 that's really damn solid.

Edit: This is what I love about Overclocking. You're putting your silicons potential to use. I mean yeah, you generate a little heat, but the fact that you can jump into your BIOS and gain 5% performance for free is really cool to me. It's like rejetting a carburetor for your optimal setup. Mmmm, optimization.
 
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