Overclock.net banner

My 303 build log.

7K views 118 replies 7 participants last post by  Joe383 
#1 ·
So got by build parts list. So far I have the white In Win 303 case and a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO ALPHA ATX motherboard. Next week I will be getting a ASUS ROG GeForce GTX 1070 video card. Was going to go all crazy with cable and hard pipe cooling system but am going to just get it running and add a good water loop later. The rest of the parts list is as goes, bare with me as this is my first build and something might not be compatible here.

Samsung 950 PRO Series - 512GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD for my main storage.

Will add more later with an extra 2.5" solid state down the road.

Deepcool CAPTAIN 120 EX 76.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler for the CPU mounted on the exit fan location at back of case.

Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory.

EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply as I do plan on upgrading the system later.

7 Deepcool TF 120 RED 76.5 CFM 120mm Fans that have red LEDs.

I will be replacing the fan on the deep cool radiator with the other fans being used in the case and have a total of 7 fans. I don't need them all at this point but don't want to leave the spots empty and will be using the mother boards bios and good fan splitter to tune the fans so the case stays in positive pressure at all times the fans are on. I plan on doing a 2 radiator system in the future and cooling the video card and maybe the ram latter down the road but saving for it now would put me months away from being able to use the system. Will get pictures up later. Going to take me a few months to get this finished so hold on
biggrin.gif
If you see any thing I am missing or dose not work let me know please.

Dose this help with the text spinFX?
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·






So the parts so far...
 
#4 ·
So I have decided I want to run the Corsair Dominator Platinum ram. Going to do 4 X 4GB sticks for a total of 16GB. I think the performance to cost ratio is good. The stock timing is 12-14-14-35 with a CAS latency of 12 and run at 1.2 volts. I don't quiet know how these number will equate in to performance but I have read and understand what they mean and they compare good against other brands of ram. Going to run the air cooler with duel fans that Corsair makes for them. Should look pretty cool.
 
#5 ·
You ram will definitely not benefit from the air coolers. They run too cool at stock settings as is with 1.2V that it will just make unnecessary noise. Aesthetically, I prefer the look of the dom plats unobstructed, but that of course is up to you.

Cool build, lets see some more updates and pics!
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by MR-e View Post

You ram will definitely not benefit from the air coolers. They run too cool at stock settings as is with 1.2V that it will just make unnecessary noise. Aesthetically, I prefer the look of the dom plats unobstructed, but that of course is up to you.

Cool build, lets see some more updates and pics!
Totally agree, bu to each his own.

DDR4 can run at 1.4v easy without any direct cooling.
 
#7 ·
Ya the air cooling is more of a looks thing. I changed the ram I want too. I am going to go with the 3000MHz instead of the 2666. The 3000 runs at 1.35V. Also going to go with a 1080 video card instead of the 1070. Build is going to go slow as I am doing this pay check to pay check. I order the video card on Friday. It will start speeding up in about a month after I get some of the more expensive parts out of the way and can start test fitting stuff.
 
#8 ·
Well it might be another 2 weeks tell I can get the video card. I decided I have to have the Asus Strix GTX OC 1080. I hate to wait this long but if I don't get it I will wish later I did. I hope there is room for 2 of them after I finish the build so I can add another one later.
 
#9 ·
I signed up for some horrible grunt work over time at work to help fund the project. I have a great job but I signed up for over time in a different department and will be hand packing food in packages for 12 hours at half my pay. I would rather clean some ones bathroom than hand pack. By the time I do this I will have my video card. This work will be what I have to do to get my Intel chip
sad-smiley-002.gif
 
  • Rep+
Reactions: arielgs
#10 ·
Ok so ordered my Intel chip instead of the video card. Just too much $$$, going to have to save for this part for a while. I got the I7 6700K 4GHz chip. I think the only other option in the I7 line up is a 3.4. I almost got a tested chip from the Silicon Lottery that tested at 4.8GHz, it was $420. They claim about %20 of them they test will hit this on the machine but decided after seeing that they claim 61% of chips on there test will hit 4.7GHz and 95% will hit 4.6GHz I decided against it. I am sure I will be plenty fine with what ever my chip clocks at. Pretty cool that you can get one that has been tested though.
 
#11 ·
LOL after ordering my chip instead of the video card because a was short my wife came home and told me I got a check from something a few years back that was owed to me. I would have been able to get the card any ways but its better I didn't because after reading some I might get a different card than what I was planning. I ordered my radiators though with the extra money and made the water loop official. I got a white XSPC AX360 radiator for the top and a white AX120 for the rear. I also decided I will be going with an XSPC white Ion Reservoir and decided on my color scheme. Going to do white, black and orange. I want to do hard pipes and have some amber tube picked out. Also want to go with the XSPC white ray storm CPU water block and will be doing orange lighting. The only thing I cant decide on is fans. I like the Enermax Cluster Advance 120mm in all white but the lights are white too. I might try to modify 1 or 2 of them and see how they turn out. The fan blades come off and the LEDs looked recessed in the housing like I might be able to put some type of colored lens over them with out hitting the fan blades. Would like to see if I could get the LEDs out with out damaging the fan. If so than I will just swap the LEDs for orange ones. If all of this ends up not working out I will use Course air RGB fans as a back up. Will post pictures up once the chip and radiators get here.
 
#12 ·




So here is my XSPC radiators in the case. I was thinking I would put a 120 in the rear of the case and flip the 360 so the lines exited out the back. After getting the rads I had to change both ideas. The 120 dose not fit the rear of the case and the 360 is off center when flipped backwards. I might use the 120 in the front bottom like in the bottom picture. The radiator with the fittings facing the glass will give a nicer looking loop anyways. I also wanted to maybe put a 360 in the bottom instead of the 120 but it would have blocked the PCIe slot and the bottom of the MOBO. I am still putting 120 fans in front of the MOBO which will block the MOBO but hopefully not the PCIe slot as I want to run an Intel 750 AIC 400 for the boot drive.
 
#13 ·
Well looks like a lot of the water loop will be PrimoChill parts. The fittings, res, tubing and D5 PWM pump. Also parts are going to be getting down graded a little bit due to me finding out I might be a father soon
smile.gif
Pretty dam excited about it. Probably going with a GTX 1070 now. I am a pretty undecided person so I guess I don't really know whats going inside this thing tell I hit the send button hahaha. Still going back and forth on colors as well. Pretty set on black chrome fittings and white base and cap for the res but tube color, led color is still up in the air and if I am doing clear, tube with colored fluid or to do UV or not is still undecided tell I hit the send button on something. I really like the blue UV stuff but am afraid it will clash as my MOBO has a lot of red on it. I have also thought about doing every thing black and white and doing RGB lighting through out as my MOBO is designed for it already. Any thoughts on this, any one?
 
#14 ·
So I was on the ASUS web page reading about M.2 SSD and read an article about running 2 U.2 in RAID 0 and they were using my MOBO. This definitely changes how I am running my memory. I will get one U.2 hard drive and hope I can get another later to run in RAID 0. This things going to be a monster.
 
#15 ·
Ordered my power supply today and my CPU water block to burn up the rest of my budget. Got the EVGA SuperNOVA 850 Gold power supply and the XSPC RayStorm Pro white water block. Will be ordering more stuff on Friday
smile.gif
Pretty good chance I will be getting my operating memory and my ram next.
 
#16 ·
So... Just ordered some new cables from EVGA for the power supply. I got there white set. I was going to sleeve my own but this simplifies things a lot for me. Now all I have to do is order and swap the connectors. I was going to do white and another color on the cables but think the all white will give a clean look to the build and colored connectors and wire combs will look nice in contrast to it. Still will need to sleeve some things like the fan cables and such but now its a lot less work for me. This cut in to my budget on Friday though cuz I put it on a card and now have to pay it off
frown.gif


I am almost at the point were I can start test fitting parts. Think I might skip on the operating memory and just get my ram next so I can afford some fans, connector's, my anti static strap and a few other little parts which will allow me to start filling the case up and making it look like a computer.
 
#17 ·
Well I went out on a limb and instead of getting some PC parts I got a Hydrographic kit to dip some parts. I have never done this so it might be a waist of money. I though I could make my own back plate for the GPU and maybe dip a few other parts. I will test it on a few house items first like an old playstation 3 controller
smile.gif
If it turns out I might do a controller for the PC and maybe a mouse too. Might change the pattern too for the PC parts. A 20" X 6.5' sheet is only $15 and I got enough activator, base coat and clear to do a lot of stuff.
 
#18 ·
Well its too bad I am broke. I found a Zotac GTX1080 AMP new on line for $570 shipped
mad.gif
On another note, after a little practice of Hydrograpic dipping if all goes well I figured out how to dip the inside of the case. I wanted a white inner part of the case but think I might drill out the rivets, take the insides out and dip every thing that's black and put it all back together. The case is only 2 parts, the top, front and the bottom, rear. I will wait tell I practice the dipping to see if this is something I am capable of before I tear it apart and I also need a rivet gun to put it back together. Even if the dipping dose not work I might still take it apart to paint every thing white. Plan on doing a sticker bomb dip on the inside. Cant wait on the kit.
 
#19 ·




So decided to drill out all the case rivets and dismantle the case. I plan on hydrodipping the inside's of the case. I wanted a full white case anyways. The hydro dip I will be using is called sticker bomb. I am still waiting on the hydrodip kit but decided to get some work done. Still need the rivet gun and some flush rivets. Drilling out the rivets was easier than I thought it would be. I am feeling optimistic about this so far.
 
#20 ·
So after reading the In Win 303 club post on this sight I decided to take apart the logo to see what makes the logo blue. It is painted on pretty good. I found a light spreader behind the blue that was a fogy clear and at first was thinking doing a pattern behind it would be cool but think I might tint the clear with a yellow film so it shines through green when illuminated.
 
#21 ·
So I hit one 3.5" bay drive with some primer and it looks good but I think I will trip it and try one more time as I noticed some imperfections. I only got paint stripper and no thinner which was a mistake and made stripping harder as once the paint is loose it dose not just rub off as it is tacky. Going back to Homedepot. Got a good rivet gun, some rivets although there not flush mount so I will probably order some more and my parts for painting the inside of the case.
 
#22 ·
Ok got some paint thinner, re stripped the paint and started over. Looks perfect now. I found out were my imperfections came from too. I sprayed a wall behind my project to get the cans tip primed so cuz it was a new can and I got some dirt blow back on my project. Paint looks as smooth as stock now though. I don' have a camera right now and will be working for about 7 days strait like a dog so progress and pictures might be slow to come but so far it is looking like it might turn out good.
 
#23 ·
Ok ordered some flush rivets and one red anodized thumb screw as I don't know what size mine are and want to make sure I don't order a bunch of the wrong ones. I also received my White XSPC water block in the mail, very nice looking part.
 
#25 ·
LOL right after I posted the UPS showed up and dropped off my EVGA *********** supply cable kit. At first I was upset cuz there white but the bags there in are tinted and made them look gray. The cables look very nice and well built. Now I just need to figure out what cables I need and which I don't so I can order my connectors and swap out the black ones the cables came with. Its been a good day.
 
#26 ·
So USPS just showed up with my EVGA power supply and I have to say DAM! What nice parts and attention to detail. It was a budget part and the quality at least visually is amazing. Even the packaging is quality. Bad time to not have a camera on hand. On another note I finished painting one of the 3.5" bay covers and it looks perfect so far. I hit it with some Rustoleum white primer to get ready for the dip. I will dip on to one side of the cover as you don't see the back side and clear the whole thing front and back. I will am undecided on if I am going to dip the back side of the MOBO mount or not as you don't see it unless you take the back cover off. Unless I make a new back cover that is
rolleyes.gif
devil-smiley-019.gif
maybe we will see. I can get the case back together and make a rear case cover later down the road. Some transparent orange acrylic would be simple to do. I should see if InWin could send me 2 lower glass rails so I could attach them to some acrylic to give it a factory look. It would allow the bottom to attach like factory and I could modify the top to hide some magnets. This would require me to have to trim the rear edge of the upper PSU chamber as it hits if I try to fit the glass cover back there and would hit if I made a door as well. Would also be cool to have some one cut a window in the rear factory cover with a water jet below the honeycomb to attatch a window too which would give a cleaner look to the door, still allow for me to hide some wires in the top like my fan headers, eliminate me having to cut the rear chamber and still allow for some what if a seal between the top and bottom of the case. I don't know if I will bother with doing this during the build and will probably do this down the road. If I keep modding I will never get it back together and running. I have 8 months to finish and than I am a father and the project stops for a little while
biggrin.gif
biggrin.gif
biggrin.gif
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top