Hello ladies and gents. As some of you may know, I use to be a Mac Tech (would say I was pretty not to beep my own horn). Well? I have since moved onto some MUCH green pastures. Now, I am a data recovery engineer and boy this doesn't get old. Most recoveries are never the same.
I will be posting little stories about various recoveries that are either interesting, difficult, time consuming or all of the above.
Now, rules going forward:
PC3000 - The best possible recovery platforms in existence. Has a combo of both complex software and hardware. I can make drives dance in the palm of my hand.
Oh boy. OH BOY! Dis gunna be gud
Case 1
So, a drive comes in. The way we work is that within the first 24-48 hours our company (meaning me and my other fellow techs). Well, one of the first things we do is plug it in and see what exactly the drive is doing.
This one? Well, it is automatically going to be a pain. WD external drives that have USB are a pain. If I need to do a head swap or anything crazy, I must do a PCB swap from one with USB to one with SATA so it can be controlled with the PC3K. A real pain and I MUST use a compatible one. Period.
Well, prior to doing that the first thing we need to know is, "Does it click?". A good recovery tech can usually tell if there is a head issue just based on how the drive sounds and behaves.
Lets plug it in at least? Nope, clicks. Activity light comes up but it REALLY clicks. That is not a good sign. Platter damage? That is why it sounds like to me.
*breaks open enclosure and opens drive.*
Oh... that is why it was clicking...
Yep... What I thought. This drive is DONE. Severe platter damage. I examined each platter see how bad it was... each one looked like the top one. Filter was nearly black as well.
How did this happen? Well, it has been dropped and mishandled lot for one. So, it likely failed after being left plugged in. Head crashed on the surface, picked up material which acted as sand paper and repeat.
Or the drive was clicking the customer kept trying over and over again to get it to work. This is why we tell people to leave them alone. Playing with a drive that is mechanically failed isn't going to fix it. You will likely make things worse or cause the above.
Okay, next one?
I will be posting little stories about various recoveries that are either interesting, difficult, time consuming or all of the above.
Now, rules going forward:
- Posts will be as vague as possible.
- I will not offer recovery support or help.
- This is not a recovery guide.
- Do not ask where I work.
- Customer's names (or companies) will never be mentioned. From hence forth all recoveries will simply by referred to as Case 1, 2, etc.
- Do not ask about the tools I use. If you are looking for one then I can guarantee you will not know how to use them or can even afford them.
- If you need data recovery, know that I care but have NO sympathies. Please backup.
- Do not ask about a "how-to". If it has gotten that far then it is already out of your hands.
- This is not a step-by-step guide to recovery. Please take everything here with a grain of salt.
- If you need help, ask in a thread and PM me. I will offer what I can.
- All head exchanges or mechanical work is done in a clean room (ISO 5 Class 100). Yes, I look like someone from HAZMAT.
- Backup please.
- If you didn't get the memo on backing up, please see my sig. You know what I am going to say.
PC3000 - The best possible recovery platforms in existence. Has a combo of both complex software and hardware. I can make drives dance in the palm of my hand.
Oh boy. OH BOY! Dis gunna be gud
Case 1
So, a drive comes in. The way we work is that within the first 24-48 hours our company (meaning me and my other fellow techs). Well, one of the first things we do is plug it in and see what exactly the drive is doing.
This one? Well, it is automatically going to be a pain. WD external drives that have USB are a pain. If I need to do a head swap or anything crazy, I must do a PCB swap from one with USB to one with SATA so it can be controlled with the PC3K. A real pain and I MUST use a compatible one. Period.
Well, prior to doing that the first thing we need to know is, "Does it click?". A good recovery tech can usually tell if there is a head issue just based on how the drive sounds and behaves.
Lets plug it in at least? Nope, clicks. Activity light comes up but it REALLY clicks. That is not a good sign. Platter damage? That is why it sounds like to me.
*breaks open enclosure and opens drive.*
Oh... that is why it was clicking...
Yep... What I thought. This drive is DONE. Severe platter damage. I examined each platter see how bad it was... each one looked like the top one. Filter was nearly black as well.
How did this happen? Well, it has been dropped and mishandled lot for one. So, it likely failed after being left plugged in. Head crashed on the surface, picked up material which acted as sand paper and repeat.
Or the drive was clicking the customer kept trying over and over again to get it to work. This is why we tell people to leave them alone. Playing with a drive that is mechanically failed isn't going to fix it. You will likely make things worse or cause the above.
Okay, next one?