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Is overclocking on my mobo advisable?

1K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  Timbo-42 
#1 ·
If my cpu has a tdp of 120w, and my motherboard has a rated tdp of 140w, am I playing with fire? This system will be liquid cooled.
Should I put heat sinks on the vrm?

Mobo-Asus M5A97 LE R2.0

CPU-Phenom II 965 be

Thanks
 
#2 ·
the VRM section is naked : I would not
plus with liquid cooling there wold be even less airflow in that section
bringing to a possibly early system failure

if you manage to attach some heatsink (beware of shortcircuiting in the attempt) on VRM
it will be safer and you can OC (not heavly)
 
#5 ·
Hi!

I believe the first pic is the VRMs. Dunno what the 2nd row is. Cooling is everything. You will get a small overclock but not high clocks as the overheating VRMs will limit it.
 
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#6 ·
They are all mosfets. ASUS simply used different categories for the high and low side mosfets. It used a blend of older D-Paks and newer lowRDS(on), instead of using all the same. If you can, heatsink them all.
 
#7 ·
I've built machines with that exact board using Phenoms and FX 4xxx and 6xxx CPUs, it can supposedly run an 8 core at stock but I wouldn't bother. Those mosfets get quite hot under heavy load (not just synthetic but video game or rendering load) stock on a 125w TDP chip. If you really want to push it to it's limit, get matching (or close) sized heat sinks and maybe a pair of 40mm fans (if you don't mind the buzzing, they aren't so bad if you run them to a controller and dial them down a peg).

If you're in the US, check out the memory and chipset cooling section on Newegg or other similar retailers, you'll find something cheap.

That all said, don't expect a huge overclock as it is. c3 phenoms like >1.5V to get 4ghz, even if you cool that VRM it's just not going to handle it, it's way too much power. IIRC that CPU has a stock vcore of 1.425.

See how far you can push the chip on stock voltage and shoot for a modest overclock, 3.6 or 3.7ghz may be possible around 1.45v.

Last bit of advice, stress test the machine by running games and other software you intend to run with it. Don't put it through prime95 or any torture tests, not worth the risk.
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Undervolter View Post

They are all mosfets. ASUS simply used different categories for the high and low side mosfets. It used a blend of older D-Paks and newer lowRDS(on), instead of using all the same. If you can, heatsink them all.
I have 8 copper 1/2''x 1/2'' square heat sinks, and 6 anodized aluminum heat sinks the same size. I have already test fit the copper ones on the vrm, and it looks like one heat sink covers two vrm perfectly. The aluminum ones work fine on the other mosfets. I had to order arctic alumina online, because no place in the area carries it....not even RadioShack, in fact RadioShack don't even carry thermal tape anymore.
mad.gif
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serious_Don View Post

I've built machines with that exact board using Phenoms and FX 4xxx and 6xxx CPUs, it can supposedly run an 8 core at stock but I wouldn't bother. Those mosfets get quite hot under heavy load (not just synthetic but video game or rendering load) stock on a 125w TDP chip. If you really want to push it to it's limit, get matching (or close) sized heat sinks and maybe a pair of 40mm fans (if you don't mind the buzzing, they aren't so bad if you run them to a controller and dial them down a peg).

If you're in the US, check out the memory and chipset cooling section on Newegg or other similar retailers, you'll find something cheap.

That all said, don't expect a huge overclock as it is. c3 phenoms like >1.5V to get 4ghz, even if you cool that VRM it's just not going to handle it, it's way too much power. IIRC that CPU has a stock vcore of 1.425.

See how far you can push the chip on stock voltage and shoot for a modest overclock, 3.6 or 3.7ghz may be possible around 1.45v.

Last bit of advice, stress test the machine by running games and other software you intend to run with it. Don't put it through prime95 or any torture tests, not worth the risk.
I am not planning to keep this board to long, It actually has a problem with the main pci express slot, where If I run either of my video cards in that slot, my system becomes unstable (either lose signal to the monitor, or reboots the system constantly). If I run the 7850 in the lower pci e slot, everything runs fine ( the 7950 doesn't have clearance to fit in the lower slot)

I don't really have the money to spend right at the moment, But when I do I was thinking of buying either a Asus Sabretooth, or Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3. I don't know which one I will end up with, but i'm sure it will be better then what I have.
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo-42 View Post

I have 8 copper 1/2''x 1/2'' square heat sinks, and 6 anodized aluminum heat sinks the same size. I have already test fit the copper ones on the vrm, and it looks like one heat sink covers two vrm perfectly. The aluminum ones work fine on the other mosfets. I had to order arctic alumina online, because no place in the area carries it....not even RadioShack, in fact RadioShack don't even carry thermal tape anymore.
mad.gif
I haven't used Arctic Alumina, so i don't know how it fares in that. The ideal would be adhesive thermal tape, but Alumina may bond well. If you have troubles with Alumina, try Arctic Ceramique 2. It's very viscous and should stick. But you should always try not to touch the heatsinks again, as i don't think any thermal paste can make them stick steady as a rock. Best thing is, put paste, let it set in, run some cycles of heat up (like Prime) and cool down and don't ever touch them again. They will likely not fall off.
 
#12 ·
if the motherboard will be held vertically the simply thermal paste will not hold long
heatsink will fall, short-circuiting the below video card

so I hope you meant "Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive"
the bond is very strong
if you wish to remove later the heatsink someone suggested to mix also some normal thermal paste
 
#13 ·
I want pictures as you do it, please.

Also, Subbed
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by chimico9 View Post

if the motherboard will be held vertically the simply thermal paste will not hold long
heatsink will fall, short-circuiting the below video card

so I hope you meant "Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive"
the bond is very strong
if you wish to remove later the heatsink someone suggested to mix also some normal thermal paste
Yes I meant Arctic alumina thermal adhesive. I have used it many times to Heat sink mosfets on video cards, and to pot led drop ins. It works well. When you remove the heat sinks from the mosfets of an old video card, it always pulls the mosfet with it. I have had issues with thermal tape staying stuck, never an issue with Arctic Alumina, but once used, it is permanent, and cannot be removed without destroying the electronics.
As I said before, I really don't care about this mobo, it is just temporary. After it dies, I will pull those heat sinks back off, sand them down, and use them again, and I guarantee when I do that, this mobo will never work again.
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Undervolter View Post

I haven't used Arctic Alumina, so i don't know how it fares in that. The ideal would be adhesive thermal tape, but Alumina may bond well. If you have troubles with Alumina, try Arctic Ceramique 2. It's very viscous and should stick. But you should always try not to touch the heatsinks again, as i don't think any thermal paste can make them stick steady as a rock. Best thing is, put paste, let it set in, run some cycles of heat up (like Prime) and cool down and don't ever touch them again. They will likely not fall off.
Arctic Alumina sticks like a rock...in fact when you try to remove heat sinks stuck with it, it always causes the breakage of the electronics removed from...see image below. This is all fine if you come to terms with the fact it is permanent. The only down side I see, is once it's mixed...you only have two or three minutes to get everything into position, before it's hardening. I will have to mix small batches and do one set of mosfets at a time. From the looks of these heat sinks, I need to use a lot less.

101_1378.jpgimages
 
#17 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerberus View Post

I want pictures as you do it, please.

Also, Subbed
I will take pictures of the process, and post them, along with the finished product. It looks like it will be a week before the thermal adhesive comes in, so until then. Now, I have to chisel these mosfets off the heat sinks, and sand them down.
 
#18 ·
Alright, My package just arrived today in the mail, so I went ahead and did my mod, and took pictures of the process.

Step 1) I removed the radiator, and got it out of the way.
Step 2) I cleaned the vrm, and heatsinks with a coffee filter, using rubbing alcohol.
https://postimg.org/image/qh2hzxveb/20mb image hosting
Step 3) I mixed a very small amount of arctic alumina, and using a tooth pick, I placed a very small amount on each vrm, and quickly seated, and alligned each copper heatsink on each set of vrm.
https://postimg.org/image/ku652gsvn/upload gambar
Step 4) I mixed another batch, and repeated the process on the smaller mosfets next to the vrm with my aluminum heatsinks, and then let it all cure for an hour.
https://postimg.org/image/5mq5i410z/upload img
Step 5) I zip-tied a 80mm fan to the water block mount.
https://postimg.org/image/6divnw3eb/20mb image hosting
Step 6) I routed all of my wires, and put it back together, and this is how it looks.
https://postimg.org/image/4ad1tysz7/free image uploader

Now it's time to study some more, and get to trying to overclock this thing.
 
#19 ·
looks good!
 
#21 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo-42 View Post

Will doing this mod make your socket have lower idle temps? If I am not mistaken, my idle temps were averaging 32 Celsius, Now according to Cupid hw monitor, my idle temps are holding at 27 Celsius.
Yes it should, especially at idle.
thumb.gif
 
#23 ·
FWIW I ran an M5A97 R1.0 with a 1100T for a while. The R1.0 actually came with some nice heatsinks that yours didn't but it still couldn't handle to voltage for a good OC on the CPU. The voltage regulation on that board just wasn't stable enough. I would watch the voltage on a graph and it would just bounce all over the place. I finally gave in and upgraded my mobo to a Crosshair v formula-z and a custom loop but not until the M5A97 started getting weak from the abuse. I can now run 4ghz all day WITH the CPU auto adjusting it's frequency between 802mhz and 4.0ghz..

Links to my older M5a97 threads below. Hope it helps and best of luck.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1502488/1100t-under-a-coolit-2-120mm-h60-temps
http://www.overclock.net/t/1504903/1100t-ready-to-throw-in-the-towel-3-7g
http://www.overclock.net/t/1516017/asus-m5a97-and-a-1100t-failing-prime95-stock-clocks-now
 
#24 ·
Hey wow you did the mod! Nice work! Have you done any overclocking yet?

I still have a Phenom II 955BE r.c2 running at 3.6ghz in that board (I was never able to get much out of that chip even when it lived in an an M4A79XTD-EVO which was significantly better).

@SabbathHB he knows it's not a good board for overclocking, I think he's just looking to squeeze out what little he can until he has the cash to upgrade. 4Ghz is a tall order even with the mod, but we'll see!
 
#25 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serious_Don View Post

Hey wow you did the mod! Nice work! Have you done any overclocking yet?

I still have a Phenom II 955BE r.c2 running at 3.6ghz in that board (I was never able to get much out of that chip even when it lived in an an M4A79XTD-EVO which was significantly better).

@SabbathHB he knows it's not a good board for overclocking, I think he's just looking to squeeze out what little he can until he has the cash to upgrade. 4Ghz is a tall order even with the mod, but we'll see!
Yea, I was just posting the links in case there's something in them that may somehow help. We all work with what we can.
 
#26 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by SabbathHB View Post

Yea, I was just posting the links in case there's something in them that may somehow help. We all work with what we can.
Funny looking through your thread with similar results, I remember going through days of testing with that board until I settled on 1.475V. Anything after that is too unstable.

Makes me wonder if I could scoop a higher end AM3 motherboard for a decent price.. I'm guessing they are becoming scarce though, wouldn't mind upgrading that rig to a thuban @ 4.2 ghz
 
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