Maybe its a bit newbie question and there will be more tutorials, or im looking wrong? My English isnt all the best so i need some proper tutorial.
I'm running in total 12 fans in 1 system, and i need some information about the daisy chaining.
I saw this image on the internet. is this right? to cut all the yellow wire's?
What controller/ fan hub sould i use so i can control it as PWM, with a fan header on my motherboard Asus Maximus IX Formula I dont have a 5.2'' bay.
What should u recommend for my setup (using Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition)
I'm using this case: Corsair 900D
Bottom: 6
Front: 2
Top: 4
Total: 12 Fans (maybe more if push/pull config. For bottom and top i want separate hubs.
correct
yellow (but can be of other color) wire convey the tachimetric signal,
there can be only one per fan connector
if more they got mixed up giving incorrect reading
PWM are nice
fans can be powered directly by the psu (no power bound)
and you need only 1 wire (usually blue, the 4°) to controll speed
you can daisy chain it
(usually no more than 4/5 fans per connector or the pwm-signal strenght will drop giving incorrect beaviour)
p.s. you did not specify what the fans are used for, case airflow? radiator? heatsink?
This one has 8 headers, can 1 header be used for 4 fans? and i see with this splitter i dont need to cut wire?
and the "to motherboard" could this be attached to every place on my motherboard? "Asus Maximus IX Formula" because the CPU Header, is in the middle of the motherboard right? so can i use the CHA-FAN(2)
This one has 8 headers, can 1 header be used for 4 fans? and i see with this splitter i dont need to cut wire?
and the "to motherboard" could this be attached to every place on my motherboard? "Asus Maximus IX Formula" because the CPU Header, is in the middle of the motherboard right? so can i use the CHA-FAN(2)
Not all fans are created equal, so it is impossible to say now many fans can be powered by a single fan header. Most fan headers can handle 1 amp total load. Each fan has running load and starting load ratings, but many fan companies only give us running load rating and don't indicate if it is running or starting load. Starting load is 2-5x times higher than running load.
Here is an example of running load and starting load ratings
So, I know that you're supposed to solder the fan wires together when daisy-chaining them together, but is it absolutely necessary? I've intertwined and twisted the wires, but have yet to put heatshrink over them yet, and it seems pretty tough to pull apart and dense. I don't have a soldering kit available, or really have space to solder anything in the apartment. Thoughts?
I'm trying to sleeve the cables where 3 fans are running off of one 3-pin fan connector, which will be connected to a fan controller. So this is what I did what a couple of test pieces:
This would be done with 3 wires instead of two, though. Would this be okay?
@JCArch Problem is unless the wires are soldered they will likely work loose. Either solder, use cap nuts or splice connectors (crimp, screw, etc).
Make sure the startup amp load is less than 1 amp (0.33 amp per fan) or you are taking a chance.of loosing the fan header.
All you need is a 25 watt or so iron and some rosin core solder (not acid core, that's for plumbing pipes, not electronics). Or you can get solid solder and some flux paste, that would be the best.
All you need is a 25 watt or so iron and some rosin core solder (not acid core, that's for plumbing pipes, not electronics). Or you can get solid solder and some flux paste, that would be the best.
Thanks, I'm going to head over to Microcenter and see what they have. I had a really nice set I used during school for my design studios, but didn't think I'd use it much after so I donated it to another student. Kicking myself now
Well, I have to say soldering is much easier than I remember! It took a matter of seconds to complete the entire soldering process. I guess I had painful memories of it from architecture school where we had to solder piano wire together for our concept models, which was an absolute pain. Thanks for the info and the little push I needed!
You can't solder steel and piano wire is steel. You have to weld or braze it. Your teacher was either giving you an impossible project on purpose or he was a dufus.
You can't solder steel and piano wire is steel. You have to weld or braze it. Your teacher was either giving you an impossible project on purpose or he was a dufus.
Given that the architecture major is usually nicknamed "architorture," I'm opting for the former. We ended up doing it and made some models that were quite complex, but those memories aren't pleasant in the least haha!
You can't solder steel and piano wire is steel. You have to weld or braze it. Your teacher was either giving you an impossible project on purpose or he was a dufus.
While it is not a practical joint for strength reasons, we can solder steel to steel, but the joint is only as strong as the lead used, so not near as strong a steel or brass. I have soldered steel many times. Sweat soldering panels and seems on boxes used to be common practice. Soldering steel wires together is not easy and gives a weak link, but can definitely be done.
Soldering
Soldering, silver soldering and brazing are same basic concept. Difference is filler metal used and the heat required to melt it. Filler metal always has lower melting point than metals it is being used on. Melting same metals together is 'welding'.
Soldering steel is more like just gluing it with solder. But yes, it can be done with the right solder and flux. My dad used to braze aluminum, but alas, I never learned how.
Soldering steel is more like just gluing it with solder. But yes, it can be done with the right solder and flux. My dad used to braze aluminum, but alas, I never learned how.
There are some newer 'aluminum brasing' compounds out now that work quite well. I haven't used any in many years but we used them often on motorcycle cases (sides and bottom from rock or cornering damage) with good results.
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