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Kaby Lake Overclocking Guide [With Statistics] - Page 219

post #2181 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xperimental View Post

My system was stable in RealBench for 8hours at 5Ghz, but my memory was set to 2133 MHz.
When I turned XMP on, it crashed after 4 hours.

What's the best approach to tune the System Agent and CPU VCCIO voltages?

If it is just XMP and not overclocking over the DRAM rated speeds, leave VCCIO / SA on auto...just raise DIM V a notch or 2...
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post #2182 of 2899
Username: Xperimental
CPU Model: i7-7700K
Base Clock: 100
Core Multiplier: 50
Core Frequency: 5000
Cache Frequency: 4200
Vcore in UEFI: 1.325V (Adaptive)
Vcore in CPU-Z: 1.312V
FCLK: 1
Cooling Solution: AIO CoolMaster Masterliquid Pro 280, not delidded
Stability Test: RealBench 2.54 - Stress Test 8 hours, 32GB RAM

Batch Number: L704C181 Malaysia
Ram Speed: 3000Mhz 15-17-17-35 @ 1.3530V
Ram Voltage: 1.3530V
VCCIO: Auto
VCCSA: Auto
Motherboard: Z270 Asus Prime Z270-A (BIOS 0906)
LLC Setting: Auto
Misc Comments: no AXV offset used



Edited by Xperimental - 4/29/17 at 2:14am
post #2183 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by becks View Post

If it is just XMP and not overclocking over the DRAM rated speeds, leave VCCIO / SA on auto...just raise DIM V a notch or 2...

DRAM voltage?

To be clear..
Realbench completed the 8hr stress test, but it crashed when it was running a infinite Benchmark.

My previous post is the 8hr stress test.
Edited by Xperimental - 4/29/17 at 2:20am
post #2184 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by tknight View Post

Before answering your questions, what are you intending to use your system for, will it be for gaming, or productivity software, or for overclocking/benching?

Knowing this, will help in assisting you as to what is the best/ recommended memory, cooling, etc that will be required for your needs.

A few games here and there. I have the Tom Clancy game that came with my GTX 1070, but haven't played it much just yet.

Definitely heavy web-browsing and some productivity items like Excel pivot tables and large PPT decks.

I also do a decent amount of Handbrake conversions of movies and TV shows. Currently using this machine as a Plex server because it allows me to use higher bandwidth files even if transcoding is needed, but Plex is doing a Beta of hardware transcoding (which can use the GPU), and I'm either planning to fully convert my library using Handbrake, get hardware transcoding working, or build a dedicated Plex server. Have also looked at using Plex Cloud so that this machine won't be jammed up with Plex.

So,I'd say my uses are web browsing and productivity, Handbrake and video transcoding and watching, and some light gaming.

I do, however, very much enjoy benchmarking and OCing, but to a limit. I'm not going to use liquid nitrogen or spend hundreds on a custom loop or water block. Nothing wrong with someone doing so, and I think it is amazing, but it doesn't currently fit my time and financial budget.

1. Web browsing (sometimes as many as 50 tabs going) and productivity software like Excel and PowerPoint. No photoshop or CAD.
2. Video encoding and reencoding using Handbrake. Plex transcoding (hopefully temporary).
3. Benchmarking, tweaking, and OCing, but not to an insane level (maybe one day with the time and $$$ budget).
4. Light gaming. Haven't been much of a gamer due to time constraints. Would love to find some strategy heavy games and a FPS shooter or two to give a few hours to each week. Played a lot of original Doom. First love was games like Colonization and Civilization

Thanks for the response. Hope this helps clarify. My tech level is not quite expert (especially due to being out of the OC scene for so long), but. I've worked in IT, and I enjoy projects and challenges. Just wired my home with 22 CAT6 runs going to a Ubiquiti USG, 24 port switch, multiple APs, etc.

One thing I forgot about motherboards is I'd really prefer dual NICs like the Fatal1ty so that I can do NIC teaming. I have a 1GBPS connection at home.

Appreciate it!
post #2185 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xperimental View Post

My system was stable in RealBench for 8hours at 5Ghz, but my memory was set to 2133 MHz.
When I turned XMP on, it crashed after 4 hours.

What's the best approach to tune the System Agent and CPU VCCIO voltages?

This what I quoted.....
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post #2186 of 2899
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forecast View Post

Been out of the CPU overclocking world for awhile. In fact, the last overclocking I did was an AMD K6. So, yeah, it has been about 20 years! I bought a Powerspec G419 ( from Microcenter.... I know I know) because it had the Asrock Fata1ity Z270 mobo, and that seemed to be a step above what most pre-built PCs came with. it also came with a set of 3200MHZ Ripjaws -- although they are the 16-18-18-38 variety. Amazingly enough, the stock build came with a Hyper EVO 212. Knowing next to nothing about modern OCing, I set the machine to 4.7GHZ the first day I had it using the UEFI automatic OC pre-sets.

Why am I posting here? From what I can tell from the statistics posted in this thread, I may have blindly stumbled across a fairly good 7700k. I don't yet have the batch number (anyway to find it short of removing the CPU cooler and looking at the die?), but I'm at 4.9Ghz with no AVX offset VCORE was set to 1.28 with an LLC setting of 2. I ran about 2 hours of Realbench and HWMonitor actually shows my VCORE was at 1.26. Highest temp was 81c on Core 1 whereas Core 2 never went above 70c. The other two cores were at 77c & 78c respectively. I did remove the Hyper EVO and replace the stock thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 (which doesn't seem very loved around here) as I used the original Arctic Silver on my AMD K6. Like I said, it has been 20 years -- even though I'm in my early 30s (I started young!!!).

I know up to 10c variation is fairly normal, but I bet I could do a better job of applying the thermal paste. I did use the thermal paste remover and purifier from Arctic Silver before applying the thermal paste. I followed the thin line over the cores instructions. My idle temps are around 25c-28c with an ambient temp of 25c.

I just purchased a H100i v2 and a Fractal Design R5 case. I chose the R5 over the Corsair Obsidian 750D high-airflow version. I stupidly didn't realize that mis-matched RAM could be a problem so when I bought a set of Geil Evo Forza 3200MHZ it doesn't play nicely with the Ripjaws. Best I can do is 2900MHZ, but I managed to lower the timing down to CAS 15. Although the Z270 Fata1ity is a great board, I recently purchased an Asrock Taichi Z270. I was torn between it, the Asrock Fata1ty I7 Professional Gaming, and the MSI X Power Gaming Titanium. I need at least 8 SATA ports (with 10 being even better), but my options were quite limited. I considered getting an ASUS Maximus Formula or Gigabyte Aorus and adding a SATA RAID card, but I thought better of it.

So, here's the point of my thread pollution: I have a couple of questions before I complete the "move" to the R5 case.

1. Should I stick with the Fata!ty K6, or roll with the new Taich? Other option would be to return the Taichi for the I7 Professional Gaming or consider something like the MSI Gaming Titanium, an ASUS board, or something altogether different? Before I went with the Microcenter pre-build, I strongly considered an X99 build with a 6850K. But, I was worried as I had not built a computer since I was 13, so I wanted to see what the learning curve was like, and the Powerspec was a great deal for an I7-7700K, GTX 1070, Asrock Fata1ity, etc. And, I wanted dual M.2 slots as I'm planning to run two Samsung NVME drives in RAID 0. Currently have a 500GB 960 EVO along with 4 SATA SSDs in RAID 10.

2. Considering the 4.9GHZ OC at 1.26/1.28 VCORE with temps 80c or below while looping RealBench, what are some opinions on whether or not the H100i v2 is a good choice for liquid cooling? My goal is a stable 5.0 or 5.1GHZ OC. I have also considered purchasing a delidding tool and delidding, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself just yet. But it seems quite simple.

3. Should I purchase a new matched set of RAM, keep what I have at 2900MHZ with CAS 15, or get another set of the Geil Evo Forza? The Geil's by themseilves in dual channel mode do 3200MHZ with 15-16-16-36-1T, so a can buy another set (Newegg was OOS for about 7 days), and see if they work at 3200MHZ with all 4 sticks or RMA the new ones and go in a different direction. I absolutely massacred the heatsink on one of the Geils. I literally ended up having to break it off at the top it was so mangled. I am going to replace the heatsink and I'm also adding a Corsair RAM cooler although I realize it isn't likely to do much. The RAM is passing Memtest86 just fine how I have it. If you do buy a set of Geil Evo Forzas you have to be as gentle as you would be with a newborn infant. My 4 year old could have bent the heatsink in half with one finger. They are that fragile. From research, I've determined they are Hynix sticks, so I'm not planning to try an OC much above the 3200MHZ. At CAS15 they are OK for me. If I could do it all over again I'd have just gotten a set of 3200MHZ Trident Zs @ CAS 14, but with current DDR prices I really don't want to drop $320 on them.

4. Final question to wrap up this e-novel that I've poured my heart and soul into: the pre-built came with a EVGA 750 BQ bronze power supply. It is semi-modular. I just pulled the trigger on an EVGA 850 G3 Gold power supply. I am running the 7700K, a GTX 1070, a Blu-Ray drive, 4 SATA SSDs, soon to be 2 Samsung NVME drives, Corsair H100i v2, 4 sticks of RAM and about 4-5 120-140mm case fans along with the two fans on the Corsair cooler. Should I just stick with the 750, or with my OC, full memory banks, and all those drives is the 850 the correct choice? Zero plans for SLI unless a GTX 1070 was suddenly 125 dollars.

Any thoughts on the questions I have? I realize there is a broader forum here, but I've been reading this thread for about two weeks, so I know you all know your stuff. I wanted to avoid the: "gee durrrr get a Ryzen" crowd and ask people with experience on this platform even though it is so very new I'm sure a lot of you came over from the Z170 or X99 side and some of you have probably had more than 1 Z270 board already!

Thanks,
Forecast

2. Best way to determine core temperatures is to average the 4 cores because there could be a +/- 5 degrees variation. If you stayed below 80 degrees RB stress test, that's great. Many will agree that AIO liquid coolers are not superior to high-end air coolers, they only keep temperatures low in the first 30-45 minutes until the water temperature equalizes in the whole loop and they will also be cooling down for a long time. Water warms up and cools down much slower than copper. I'm not saying that AIO closed loop coolers are bad, they are just loud and expensive compared to air. Also, they could malfunction, that's why I went with a huge metal monstrosity.

3. If you can send back the RAM that you purchased, do it. Get another pair of the same that you have. G.Skill is one of the best manufacturers with decent prices.

4. EVGA is not a bad brand but it's not the best. jonnyGURU.com is one of the best review sites you find about power supplies. Here's the review of yours: EVGA 750BQ 750W. If you need good PSU, get SeaSonic (almost any will do as they have the reputation of making really good ones). I've got myself a Seasonic M12II-620 EVO because of good buld quality and modularity. Also 620 W is more than enough for my Kaby Lake build and mostly my system is using 50-60% of it. You probably don't need more than 600 W even with 10 HDD's. Use a PSU calculator to check what do you need and don't spend money for no reason.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Xperimental View Post

My system was stable in RealBench for 8hours at 5Ghz, but my memory was set to 2133 MHz.
When I turned XMP on, it crashed after 4 hours.

What's the best approach to tune the System Agent and CPU VCCIO voltages?

I don't recommend XMP as it can screw up OC. And from my perspective XMP is just like auto overclocking, I don't trust it. Go manual with RAM frequency, timings and voltage. Read about System Agent and VCCIO tuning here: http://edgeup.asus.com/2017/01/31/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/3/
    
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post #2187 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyred View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



4. EVGA is not a bad brand but it's not the best. jonnyGURU.com is one of the best review sites you find about power supplies. Here's the review of yours: EVGA 750BQ 750W. If you need good PSU, get SeaSonic (almost any will do as they have the reputation of making really good ones). I've got myself a Seasonic M12II-620 EVO because of good buld quality and modularity. Also 620 W is more than enough for my Kaby Lake build and mostly my system is using 50-60% of it. You probably don't need more than 600 W even with 10 HDD's. Use a PSU calculator to check what do you need and don't spend money for no reason.

Ooo. youre lucky Shilka doesnt hang around in this thread wink.gif

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=494

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=500

Here's a review of the Supernova G3 1000W and the G3 750W from JG. EVGA G2/P2/T2/G3 are based off the Superflower Leadex/Leadex II platform. Easily as good as Seasonic platforms and with a 10 year warranty and often cheaper. (*looks at own sig*) I'm not being defensive about my own purchase honestly tongue.gif It is true though. The lower end EVGA units you might be right, like the one from the review you listed.

But yea, the point is dont look at the brand, do a bit of research about the platform underneath.

Slightly more on topic although not really, ahem. Id agree 650Watts should be way more then enough for most people with a quad core single card GPU system overvolted and overclocked for 24/7 use.
Edited by Slink3Slyde - 4/29/17 at 6:20am
post #2188 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink3Slyde View Post

Ooo. youre lucky Shilka doesnt hang around in this thread wink.gif

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=494

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=500

Here's a review of the Supernova G3 1000W and the G3 750W from JG. EVGA G2/P2/T2/G3 are based off the Superflower Leadex/Leadex II platform. Easily as good as Seasonic platforms and with a 10 year warranty and often cheaper. (*looks at own sig*) I'm not being defensive about my own purchase honestly tongue.gif It is true though. The lower end EVGA units you might be right, like the one from the review you listed.

But yea, the point is dont look at the brand, do a bit of research about the platform underneath.

Slightly more on topic although not really, ahem. Id agree 650Watts should be way more then enough for most people with a quad core single card GPU system overvolted and overclocked for 24/7 use.

I know EVGA does alot of rebranding but in general I'd say they aren't a great brand when it comes to power supplies. The ones you mentioned are super expensive, for the same reason why Superflower is usually damn expensive (subjective). That's why I recommended SeaSonic as it's a brand you can trust most of the times and the price is right. Had a Corsair (CX 430 or something similar, was about 15 years ago) failing on me and dragging half the system with it. Got myself a SeaSonic that still works in my old (now my parents) PC and got one in my current one as well and wasn't expensive. For $60 you won't find many others that perform on this level. Leadex PSU's are generally $35-40 more expensive so it's not really in this price range.
    
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post #2189 of 2899
For me as PSU XTR - XFX has been great so far...no fails since
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post #2190 of 2899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forecast View Post

1. Should I stick with the Fata!ty K6, or roll with the new Taich? Other option would be to return the Taichi for the I7 Professional Gaming or consider something like the MSI Gaming Titanium, an ASUS board, or something altogether different? Before I went with the Microcenter pre-build, I strongly considered an X99 build with a 6850K. But, I was worried as I had not built a computer since I was 13, so I wanted to see what the learning curve was like, and the Powerspec was a great deal for an I7-7700K, GTX 1070, Asrock Fata1ity, etc. And, I wanted dual M.2 slots as I'm planning to run two Samsung NVME drives in RAID 0. Currently have a 500GB 960 EVO along with 4 SATA SSDs in RAID 10.

I'm using the Z270 K6, and even the Super Carrier doesn't seem to have much more to offer. It does have a few more options in the BIOS, but overall the memory tops out the same and they aren't clocking any higher than the K6. Do know that these boards don't do well with Dual Channel above 3600 if you do decide to purchase new memory

2. Considering the 4.9GHZ OC at 1.26/1.28 VCORE with temps 80c or below while looping RealBench, what are some opinions on whether or not the H100i v2 is a good choice for liquid cooling? My goal is a stable 5.0 or 5.1GHZ OC. I have also considered purchasing a delidding tool and delidding, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself just yet. But it seems quite simple.

Keep in mind your talking about a ~4% difference. I'm delidded on a H115i and 5.1 @ 1.312-1.328v or 5.2 at ~1.45v. I was stable at 5 @ 1.28v before delidding. You don't seem to be so interested in pinching pennies, but I'd delid first and see how it works with your air cooler as it does look to be a fairly good chip

3. Should I purchase a new matched set of RAM, keep what I have at 2900MHZ with CAS 15, or get another set of the Geil Evo Forza? The Geil's by themseilves in dual channel mode do 3200MHZ with 15-16-16-36-1T, so a can buy another set (Newegg was OOS for about 7 days), and see if they work at 3200MHZ with all 4 sticks or RMA the new ones and go in a different direction. I absolutely massacred the heatsink on one of the Geils. I literally ended up having to break it off at the top it was so mangled. I am going to replace the heatsink and I'm also adding a Corsair RAM cooler although I realize it isn't likely to do much. The RAM is passing Memtest86 just fine how I have it. If you do buy a set of Geil Evo Forzas you have to be as gentle as you would be with a newborn infant. My 4 year old could have bent the heatsink in half with one finger. They are that fragile. From research, I've determined they are Hynix sticks, so I'm not planning to try an OC much above the 3200MHZ. At CAS15 they are OK for me. If I could do it all over again I'd have just gotten a set of 3200MHZ Trident Zs @ CAS 14, but with current DDR prices I really don't want to drop $320 on them.

Keep what you got. Not worth the cash IMO.


4. Final question to wrap up this e-novel that I've poured my heart and soul into: the pre-built came with a EVGA 750 BQ bronze power supply. It is semi-modular. I just pulled the trigger on an EVGA 850 G3 Gold power supply. I am running the 7700K, a GTX 1070, a Blu-Ray drive, 4 SATA SSDs, soon to be 2 Samsung NVME drives, Corsair H100i v2, 4 sticks of RAM and about 4-5 120-140mm case fans along with the two fans on the Corsair cooler. Should I just stick with the 750, or with my OC, full memory banks, and all those drives is the 850 the correct choice? Zero plans for SLI unless a GTX 1070 was suddenly 125 dollars.


Keep 750 if it does the trick and it should.

Any thoughts on the questions I have? I realize there is a broader forum here, but I've been reading this thread for about two weeks, so I know you all know your stuff. I wanted to avoid the: "gee durrrr get a Ryzen" crowd and ask people with experience on this platform even though it is so very new I'm sure a lot of you came over from the Z170 or X99 side and some of you have probably had more than 1 Z270 board already!

Thanks,
Forecast
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Samsung EVO 850 Corsair H115i Windows 10 Nixeus NX-Vue24a 
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Corsair K70 Rapidfire  Corsair RM850X Corsair 600Q Logitech G303 
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