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afraid i might have a shot mobo asus just one month in cpu maybe also

303 views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  TwoCables 
#1 ·
I'm at a loss. Alls I did was set lower timings xmp for 2133 corsair dominator c9s to c8 timings just to SEE if it would boot into windows with it and when I exited the bios the screen flashed or flickered then I shut it down. Boot back up and no display Asus splash screen nothing though the monitor is on. Take off the side panel, see everything "running" but first flashing red CPU led followed by 2 flashing red dram leds. I do the usual cosmos, reseat, use old ram sticks, use different ram slots, so its not the ram. So its either a fried 5.0 clocked CPU or a fried mobo right? Asus just hung up on my when I called them explaining the problem so I guess I must take it into the shop tomorrow to get bent over right? CPU is delidded and temps never got above 67 never!!! Gpu the same. The z97-a mobo DID get high temps on the temp 4 sensor whatever that is all the time. It would go into the high 60s corsair h100i is used brand new brand new psu brand new strix 1080.

Flashing led on the CPU followed by 2 flashing less on the dram. Nothing fixes it and I have the latest bios on a flash drive but don't know where to put it - tried all usbs to the motherboard. This is so terrible.
 
#4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Dow View Post

I used the pin move and move back method 10 to 20 secs jumper method
Would you be up for trying the method of removing the little CMOS battery? What you do is, you turn the power supply off and remove the CMOS battery. Then, press the power button on your computer case a time or to so that the capacitors are drained. Then wait maybe a minute and then put the battery back in. After that, you turn the PSU on and try to turn the computer on.
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Would you be up for trying the method of removing the little CMOS battery? What you do is, you turn the power supply off and remove the CMOS battery. Then, press the power button on your computer case a time or to so that the capacitors are drained. Then wait maybe a minute and then put the battery back in. After that, you turn the PSU on and try to turn the computer on.
I'm tryin that right now haus, didn't know about the pushing power button to drain
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Would you be up for trying the method of removing the little CMOS battery? What you do is, you turn the power supply off and remove the CMOS battery. Then, press the power button on your computer case a time or to so that the capacitors are drained. Then wait maybe a minute and then put the battery back in. After that, you turn the PSU on and try to turn the computer on.
ok that did Not work
 
#8 ·
Change the memory configuration by pulling the sticks and putting a stick in a slot that didn't have a similar stick in it. May or may not work.
 
#9 ·
I took out the gpu and ram and booted no beep signaling no ram but this time there are more frequent flashes red led dram, still just one infrequent led CPU flash. Mobo speaker may not be plugged? It didn't come with any. I do have a z87 sabertooth still that works but reluctant to pull every thing apart. If this one-month-in Asus z97 is fried already in certainly either sticking with the old one or buying msi. Also loss of cost of nee windows install this is awful.
 
#10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by H-man View Post

Change the memory configuration by pulling the sticks and putting a stick in a slot that didn't have a similar stick in it. May or may not work.
yeah that didn't work. With sticks out the dram led is constant red with NO cpu led blinkat all. Had one stick in a never-used first slot and blinking will remain first blink on CPU then two blinkd on dram led
 
#11 ·
Might I suggest that testing RAM at stock CPU speed first is always a wise precaution.
redface.gif
Also, full system specs can be helpful.
smile.gif


That said, id try a long CMOS clear. You wouldn't think it would make a difference, but I've seen miracles.
1. CMOS clear with the jumper again (but you can may as well leave the jumper connected I guess)
2. Pull the CMOS battery
3. Remove all power: switch off PSU, unplug PSU, remove motherboard ATX power connector
4. Discharge residual power: hold down the power switch for 30 secs. Wait. Do another 30-60 for good measure.
5. Leave it be. The longer the better. It doesn't make much sense but I've seen better results at 12hrs+ vs ~3hrs, so I'd leave it overnight at least.
6. Remove jumper then plug everything back in. Wait a min. Cross your fingers and power it up.
If that doesnt work and you have spare parts, you could throw hardware at the problem to troubleshoot it, but id just pester Asus for an RMA.
 
#12 ·
Well, most definitely fried mobo. Installed old sabertooth and she works. Cleaned all the dust off through and through. SSD kept all data op system. I hear a louder fan somewhere after taking all out and putting back in. I'm thinking it's either too tightening of screw on H100i fans OR a small Sabertooth mobo fan that really does nothing but whine, not sure. Temps are about the same with this old mobo., maybe a degree or 2 more. Was getting in the 19s idle on the z79. This one only gets as low at 21. Looks like I'm back in business, and No More overclocking timings! I've learned my lesson. Thanks for yall's help. I did the CMOS battery out for 12 hours etc and I talked with a guy I know locally who soders boards (would have cost as much as the board), owns his own business 10 years or more, he's also a day-trader very smart, and when I told him that there was no beep with no ram, he said, "oh, it's done."

I looked for charred places on the board and it looked like one spot near the memory section was burnt or something glossy, could've been dust or dirt but probably messed up circuitry.

I've gotta get rid of this whine after the re-vamp though it's annoying.
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

In my experience to date, I find it extremely hard to believe that this simple change to the memory timing did all this. I think something else was at play here.
Yeah, the 5.0 Ghz on the 4790K? or z97-a by asus is just bad QC.

The old Sabertooth is now pulling 19 degrees on 2 cores at idle better than the z97-a and I've had this mobo for 4 years almost with various heavy overclocks on the 4770K I used to own (just sold for $95, Juan got a Steal cause I routinely got 4.7 or 4.8 on that chip and had delidded it myself - 1st time with hammer and vice method).

Fixed the buzzing noise. Sure enough it came from the tiny fan on the Sabertooth (that's really just for show and not cooling apparently just makes noise - it only has 3 screws and should have a 4th place for a screw but doesn't thus the whine I guess) so I removed it and replaced it with a shield part, closing the door.

I've sent this z97-A Asus mobo back on Amazon as defective. I think I bent some pins on it too while putting it back in the box but who cares? it's already broke.

I'll just keep runnin this z87 Sabertooth I paid a lot for (twice as much as the z97) back in 2013. I'd upgraded thinking that there'd be benefits to using "the correct" z97 with the 4790K but there are no perceived benefits to me other than clearance issues, the z97 has better placement of 4 pins and the CPU and motherboard power connectors. The z87 makes it difficult to install the H100i fans and it's easier to disconnect the fan unwittingly thus possibly frying your CPU without knowing it's disconnected. I had to get some pliers to break off some plastic (from the "tuff" shield covering to be able to screw in the 4th screw on the left fan to the H100i - it's the only way it was gonna get screwed in without moving the entire radiator forward even more than it should be forward presently).
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Dow View Post

Yeah, the 5.0 Ghz on the 4790K? or z97-a by asus is just bad QC.

The old Sabertooth is now pulling 19 degrees on 2 cores at idle better than the z97-a and I've had this mobo for 4 years almost with various heavy overclocks on the 4770K I used to own (just sold for $95, Juan got a Steal cause I routinely got 4.7 or 4.8 on that chip and had delidded it myself - 1st time with hammer and vice method).

Fixed the buzzing noise. Sure enough it came from the tiny fan on the Sabertooth (that's really just for show and not cooling apparently just makes noise - it only has 3 screws and should have a 4th place for a screw but doesn't thus the whine I guess) so I removed it and replaced it with a shield part, closing the door.

I've sent this z97-A Asus mobo back on Amazon as defective. I think I bent some pins on it too while putting it back in the box but who cares? it's already broke.

I'll just keep runnin this z87 Sabertooth I paid a lot for (twice as much as the z97) back in 2013. I'd upgraded thinking that there'd be benefits to using "the correct" z97 with the 4790K but there are no perceived benefits to me.
I'm going to sound very cold here, but I think this is a lesson learned: ask Overclock.net first before buying anything. We could have told you that you didn't need a new motherboard for any reason.
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I'm going to sound very cold here, but I think this is a lesson learned: ask Overclock.net first before buying anything. We could have told you that you didn't need a new motherboard for any reason.
You're right. I'd kept getting this "Clock interrupt on the secondary processor" for YEARS so I just started a re-vamp early this year to finally solve that blue screen. I replaced the H100i with the version 2 (which I like better because the 1st version idk maybe it could have been open box because the radiator looked all beat up unlike this one and it didn't seem like it was doing its job anymore), then the GTX Strix 1080 though my 780 was doing fine (I'd thought that that was possibly causing the clock interrupt), then the power supply froom 650 Seasonic gold to 850 Seasonic Titanium (really kickass unit and but didn't probably really wasn't the cause of the clock interrupt - I get less of them now though until I try 5.1 Ghz then I am sure to get that blue screen), replaces the Corsair 1600 MHz ram with Corsair Dominator 2133 c9s (that I'd thought that were c8s per the title in the ebay listing but I'm still happy with the move), and new mobo.

I'd also thought that my windows was "corrupt" for doing BLCK overclocking (won't do that again - it's unstable really, and I don't like the thought of what it does (did) to peripherals - I was just trying to squeeze out extra MHz).

You're right I get AMAZING advice from Overclock.net. I'll never overclock the timings on ram again. The Speed, yes, timings no.
 
#17 ·
Yeah, I really recommend asking first from now on. For example: that 650W Seasonic PSU didn't have to be replaced. The 650W SeaSonic G Series is quite good.

Sorry, I should probably stop being so cold. I guess I'm more budget-minded than most people. Wasting money isn't much of an option for me.
 
#18 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Yeah, I really recommend asking first from now on. For example: that 650W Seasonic PSU didn't have to be replaced. The 650W SeaSonic G Series is quite good.

Sorry, I should probably stop being so cold. I guess I'm more budget-minded than most people. Wasting money isn't much of an option for me.
Yeah I really don't play on SLI and I just thought that the "interrupt on the secondary processor" might be a power draw problem (not enough power for the 5.0 and 1080 and 8 or so usb plugins, but I realize after looking at cpuz gpuz and that h64info whatever that watts are much less but I was looking at online calculators showing that I should have 822 watts and just thought I should bang up to be safe). I'm selling those old parts so I'm getting a little bit of money back, but not much. I have to take down the Sabertooth listing though like right now cause I'm using it. Old technology is not so old and may be even better. My temps appear 1-3 degrees better on average. The failed z97 was good while it lasted - seemed brighter the bios is brighter and more clicky/not as clunky but I'm just glad to have my rig back. It only took 2 hours to take everything out and put back together and then all the data/operating system being on the SSD REALLY helped me time-wise (windows updates and such). It really wasn't that bad of a catastrophe, just send it back. This is because I've set this rig up 3-4 times now and know where all the connections are now - it's like driving down the same road again and again gets quicker, plus the manuals are pretty good. I ordered new fans for intake front and bottom (even though I'm on water, I wanted to try to see if I could get that mobo temp #4 senor temp down - it goes to 50 then back to 30 all other mobo temps are 20s). Trying to improve airflow. Exhaust is in the back (just one 140mm fan - Fractal Design - new fans are Fractal as well 140mms).

You're not cold. I need re-enforcement for doing things right here, because I tend to explore and try things without checking the consequences first. I mean I research and read all over about issues Tom's Hardware, here, and ROG, and other Overclockers sites, but Here is where I've lowered temps by 20-25 degrees most times when I implement ideas yall suggest, like um, taking off the pci-e slot covers. That dropped temps at LEAST 10 degrees all over - the CPU, the GPU (especially = 41 degrees now instead of 61), mobo some.
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Dow View Post

Yeah I really don't play on SLI and I just thought that the "interrupt on the secondary processor" might be a power draw problem (not enough power for the 5.0 and 1080 and 8 or so usb plugins, but I realize after looking at cpuz gpuz and that h64info whatever that watts are much less but I was looking at online calculators showing that I should have 822 watts and just thought I should bang up to be safe). I'm selling those old parts so I'm getting a little bit of money back, but not much. I have to take down the Sabertooth listing though like right now cause I'm using it. Old technology is not so old and may be even better. My temps appear 1-3 degrees better on average. The failed z97 was good while it lasted - seemed brighter the bios is brighter and more clicky/not as clunky but I'm just glad to have my rig back. It only took 2 hours to take everything out and put back together and then all the data/operating system being on the SSD REALLY helped me time-wise (windows updates and such). It really wasn't that bad of a catastrophe, just send it back. This is because I've set this rig up 3-4 times now and know where all the connections are now - it's like driving down the same road again and again gets quicker, plus the manuals are pretty good. I ordered new fans for intake front and bottom (even though I'm on water, I wanted to try to see if I could get that mobo temp #4 senor temp down - it goes to 50 then back to 30 all other mobo temps are 20s). Trying to improve airflow. Exhaust is in the back (just one 140mm fan - Fractal Design - new fans are Fractal as well 140mms).

You're not cold. I need re-enforcement for doing things right here, because I tend to explore and try things without checking the consequences first. I mean I research and read all over about issues Tom's Hardware, here, and ROG, and other Overclockers sites, but Here is where I've lowered temps by 20-25 degrees most times when I implement ideas yall suggest, like um, taking off the pci-e slot covers. That dropped temps at LEAST 10 degrees all over - the CPU, the GPU (especially = 41 degrees now instead of 61), mobo some.
Yeah, I find that Overclock.net is the only site worth looking at. It seems all others just contain people who don't know what they're talking about.

Regarding the 822W: with one GTX 1080 and an overclocked 4790K, a good quality-made 550W PSU would be enough. You would have to use a wall meter to see proof. Software cannot be trusted to show accurate readings for things like wattage (or PSU voltages, for that matter).
 
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