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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 1018

post #10171 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 View Post

13mhz increments, 2045 doesn't exist smile.gif

I find it always better to default the curve, press apply, then raise the highest bin first, then move down the bins after that and hit apply, if you pick frequencies factional above the fxied increments they tend to apply correctly, like 2053 will set 2050 ok.

The curve you show above will draw less power but is loose a ton of performance, you need to have at least one step down and then next 4 lower bins raised.

This is the curve I was running, but I probably should have had those last two bins raised as well smile.gif



the last 4 bins give a good performance boost, like some invisible limiting is happening so optimising them helps.

So I retuned the curve to add those extra points and got 10795, played with the memory too, and get good scaling as long as I restart bench program after memory adjustment



this is with the Asus FE bios, and its dropping to 2063 due to limiting, due the extra performance load, but 3 bins below that seems enough. Its so much easier to set the XOC bios, but the performance is just worse and the better you tune FE, the worse again XOC looks frown.gif
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post #10172 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

really depends on your ambient temperature and the case air flow I not sure but some do test on an open test bench like this

or possibly air con turned right down to 18°C
No thermal throttling mmm are you looking at turning your top card into a fry pan biggrin.gif
Actually why I got a Maximus Extreme Motherboard to have 4 single slots spacing with SLI, still had residual heat from bottom card even 200mm and 140mm fan blowing on the cards, gave up switched to water only for me for SLI.
or go the FE blow style if you insist on staying on air.

I have my case wide open with no panels in a 17c room. It's functionally a test bench with fans.

Load Tomb Raider or the new Prey at 4K and stock the fans ramp up to 1700RPM and are too loud for my taste. Other games like Hitman keep the card much quieter with results comparable to reviews.

I'm convinced they are just not pushing the cards hard enough because 1400RPM at 66c is just out of the realm of possibility from my testing.

I'd love if another STRIX owner can chime in. I'm about to throw my Morpheus on it but the warranty sticker scares me given how terrible Asus RMA is.
post #10173 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckbad View Post

As you might have anticipated, after finding one golden sample EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 that I could clock over 2 GHz core and 12 GHz (aka 6 GHz... depends on what number you prefer) memory with little effort (no voltage addition)...

I opened the second FTW3 that came in the same box. Bought them both at the same time from BH.

The second FTW3 is ALSO golden sample!

Lightning strikes twice!

Gad, I don't know which is better either. I already have this one going over 2 GHz / 12 GHz without issue.

It's going to take all weekend to determine which card is better (frankly, they might be identical and from the same manufacturing run, so there might not be a better one). I'll be selling one of them and keeping the other to put on water once EKWB starts selling their waterblocks.

most cards can go over 2000MHz easily right? I've had 5 FE cards so far, all of them can do over 2038MHz using only the core offset slider.

My best two cards so far are
2152MHz core and +525 Memory, and
2114MHz core and +850 Memory
Both manage to pass FSU stress test and TS stress test. I ended up keeping the first one. Not sure if I made the right choice. rolleyes.gif They scored very similar in benchmarks and games.
http://www.3dmark.com/tsst/48553
http://www.3dmark.com/tsst/47064
http://www.3dmark.com/fsst/441911
http://www.3dmark.com/fsst/431230
post #10174 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

thumb.gifwink.gifbiggrin.gif I really appreciate you project cars guys/gals. ya'll are the ones who discovered the magic cache on broadwell, and many of us profusely thank you for it!! But, a bunch of others will hate ya'll for it. It makes them hate their much more expensive chips. They don't have the gumption that you did to sell off that $1000 paperweight and get a gaming oriented cpu. They game one workstations biggrin.gif
this is the whole curve thing in a nutshell. it is actually quite simple, really. took me a minute to figure it all out though. the changing after hitting apply, even when on the correct points, is what threw me off for a little while.

On Air cooling

The changing after hitting apply happens to me when you open the curve screen at a low temp say below 38C and then decide to edit your curve while you have a 3D application going in the background such as a game and your card has heated up beyond one of the thermal limits at roughly 40C, 52C, 60C,65C on air.

As you approach these temps you may notice your card drop a frequency bin from 2101 down to 2088 down to 2062 down to 2050.

If you are editing your curve and press apply it will function differently at the different temp intervals most of the time. This is even if you don't have any power limits.

Heaven Benchmark is the only time I have seen this not be true for some reason. In heaven bench the card just decides to ignore throttling and it either heats up to get super hot and doesn't crash or it crashes.

ps. Super jelly of you guys with your good memory clocks. I can only max at +400 on my card.
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post #10175 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

Seasonic installed and running great, no more hum! thumb.gif

Thanks for all the help everyone! cheers.gif

EDIT: Fired up Heaven 2x. And 2x my system powered off... Is 850 not enough? never had this happen with the AX1200... rolleyes.gifmad.gif

EDIT 2: I just bought this...

Should fix my issues. rolleyes.gif

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-1600w-modular-power-supply-black/4598983.p?skuId=4598983

Well, got my EVGA 1600W P2 PSU installed, all issues resolved, no hum, quieter than the Seasonic in Eco mode. and NO issues with black screens or system shutdowns/restarts thumb.gif
post #10176 of 12765
0.981v and still consuming 295w + in The Witcher 3 on the Skellege Isles (4k Ultra).

And card is barely able to maintain a clock-speed of 1900 at that voltage. (power limited).

I just upgraded my entire system, CPU, Mobo & DDR4. So the water-block went on hold.

Have to admit, after the performance boost I seen--I even begun to think I could get away without water & shunt mod.

But after today playing The Witcher 3. I can't stress how wrong I was.

This card really is crying out for shunt mod, I'm just going to have to be patient. 2 weeks to go until I can afford to order my block.
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post #10177 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryLobster View Post

I have my case wide open with no panels in a 17c room. It's functionally a test bench with fans.

Load Tomb Raider or the new Prey at 4K and stock the fans ramp up to 1700RPM and are too loud for my taste. Other games like Hitman keep the card much quieter with results comparable to reviews.

I'm convinced they are just not pushing the cards hard enough because 1400RPM at 66c is just out of the realm of possibility from my testing.

I'd love if another STRIX owner can chime in. I'm about to throw my Morpheus on it but the warranty sticker scares me given how terrible Asus RMA is.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_20

First I think everyone should read the above fill our you Rig as it does help a lot if you ask for help

I have the Strix but I didn't bother testing The factory cooler, straight under water for me
As for the tamper stickers don't apply in my country because the NZ consumer laws allow for maintenance and improvements as long as you don't modify the integrity of the card.
Another words I can replace the TIM without voiding warrantee BUT you will sometimes have to fight the fact for the rouge reseller.

it is possible to take the screw out without damaging the tamper sticker by using small pliers to grip the side of the screw head to undo it.
Or clean the sticker off completely and ask them for undeniable proof that it was ever there wink.gif
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post #10178 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

most cards can go over 2000MHz easily right? I've had 5 FE cards so far, all of them can do over 2038MHz using only the core offset slider.

My best two cards so far are
2152MHz core and +525 Memory, and
2114MHz core and +850 Memory
Both manage to pass FSU stress test and TS stress test. I ended up keeping the first one. Not sure if I made the right choice. rolleyes.gif They scored very similar in benchmarks and games.
http://www.3dmark.com/tsst/48553
http://www.3dmark.com/tsst/47064
http://www.3dmark.com/fsst/441911
http://www.3dmark.com/fsst/431230

Most of the cards I've had can go over 2000 MHz on air, but few of them can hold over that point in gaming without aggressive fan profiles.

I've now had slightly less than 50% of the 1080 Tis I've purchased hold over 2GHz easily in practical situations. I've only had one that could reasonably hold over 2100, and that one had crappy memory.

None of the cards I've had can reliably do over +600 MHz offset on memory in stress tests without artifacting at some point.

The two FTW3 cards I just acquired won't throttle below 2 GHz when playing games, which has been rare from what I've seen (without voltage).

I'm hoping whichever one I keep can do 2100 MHz without fluctuating once I get it on water.
post #10179 of 12765
Had some time to play with curve on the XOC, though I'm not even sure I should bother.

Default bios I could get 2037 stable at 1.075-1.093v, but with this even at 1.2v 2062 is not stable.

Seems like the additional voltage doesn't really do much for the OC. Or maybe the chip is at its limits already.

Edit : Nevermind. Upon further testing 2088@ 1.131v is stable but not 2062@ 1.2v. It seems there is a certain voltage threshold before the card gets unstable simply due to too high voltage.
Edited by TheBoom - 5/20/17 at 1:12am
post #10180 of 12765
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoom View Post

Had some time to play with curve on the XOC, though I'm not even sure I should bother.

Default bios I could get 2037 stable at 1.075-1.093v, but with this even at 1.2v 2062 is not stable.

Seems like the additional voltage doesn't really do much for the OC. Or maybe the chip is at its limits already.

Edit : Nevermind. Upon further testing 2088@ 1.131v is stable but not 2062@ 1.2v. It seems there is a certain voltage threshold before the card gets unstable simply due to too high voltage.

1.2V @ 2062MHz: Think what that means... it means more heat even at lower clock, it simply can be the higher temperature which is causing higher leakage current and cross flow current therefor the gpu can miscalculate stuff and you get crashes
Edited by Hulio225 - 5/20/17 at 1:21am
    
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