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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 163

post #1621 of 10854
I probably would be rocking a Titan X if they allowed non reference designs.
post #1622 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by x-apoc View Post

Cant wait to see ME: Andromeda bundles, if ever..

Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

If ever is right. I doubt we'll see it bundled with anything. Nvidia seems to have a pretty tight partnership with Ubisoft atm.

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/mass-effect-andromeda-best-buy-evga-geforce-gtx-1070-bundle
post #1623 of 10854

Seems that's more an EVGA bundle than it is Nvidia or their partners. And it's also exclusive to Best Buy.
post #1624 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

Seems that's more an EVGA bundle than it is Nvidia or their partners. And it's also exclusive to Best Buy.

Just showing there is a ME:A bundle out there at some level.
post #1625 of 10854


haha nice.. way to push sales nvidia


hybrid cooler+ Andromeda or no buy!
post #1626 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

I've already told you, I get higher scores in 3d mark Firestrike at 2075, than I do at 2088.

Here's a link to one at 2075...
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12007457




I haven't even attempted to try stabilize 2100 since I'm hitting minor power limits at around 2088 trying to sustain the clock vs letting it bounce. These throttle events lower the score and make seeking 2100 a pointless proposition for me. I predict you will encounter this as well once you get under water and unlock your cards potential, which frankly could be amazing since you've got one of the best examples so far.

If I set my card like yours to hit the TDP and PWR and or temp throttles @ 2100 I'm sure I can run Firestirke just fine. It wouldn't be hard for me to set the boost at 2100 and use the TDP and or temp limiter to allow my card to down clock to 2050 during the run and pass. Again that would be misleading and is essentially what you're doing without knowing it.

Since your card currently throttles away form 2100, you're not actually loading the core nearly as hard as you would under water where the thermal throttle will no longer save you and will actually increase your core usage and thus TDP as the card will now be spending longer at your top bin.

When you get under water, and you're not bouncing off the TDP and temp limit like you are now, post your results. I'll be waiting.

You've yet to post a video of your card sustaining anything other than a momentary boost clocks. I really could care less about debating the semantics you're presenting about sustained boost except to give context to people reading and evaluating your claimed 2100.

From what you have said you throttle down to 2050 do you not? When you get under water and your card is stressed even harder due to lower thermals, is no longer hitting at lest the temp limits and better yet TDP and Pwr, I suspect you'll be in for a surprise.

In practicality, you're also likely to see higher 3d Mark scores at lower but sustained boost levels where the card is not hitting the pwr limits and spends longer in your top clock bin. This will increase the area under the curve and essentially improve your performance.

Here's the video you requested. 2100+ through Valley. (2113 if we use your logic).

Yep thats a nice clock in valley dude. its under water? 30c i guess it is.

You get stable 2075 mhz on heaven ? 3d mark throttle from 2000mhz to 2100 mhz but im not sure why its that since i dont hit high temps.
Edited by pompss - 3/16/17 at 2:24pm
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post #1627 of 10854
Have you guys who are air-cooling removed the back-plates and seen any perceptible difference in temps? My 4 Way GPU sammich is obviously keeping things...hot.
     
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post #1628 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by pompss View Post


Yep thats a nice clock in valley dude. its under water? 30c i guess it is.

You get stable 2075 mhz on heaven? 3d mark throttle from 2000mhz to 2100 mhz but im not sure why its that since i dont hit high temps.

The card is on water, on an x41 AIO mod. Very basic but it has a slightly larger radiator than a standard AIO. 30% more volume. 140mm vs the 120mm EVGA unit for example. It's running two noctuas in push pull and I'm using liquid metal TIM on the die to help further with the temps. People debate if the trouble is worth it, but I've had good results with it.

I am stable benching and looping through everything at 2075. As I'm sure you've noticed throttling is a peeve of mine. Perhaps too much so. I'll admit it. Heaven, Valley, Firestrike, TimeSpy games you name it all bench and loop at a solid 2075 for me. Since this is where my highest scores are as well it will be where I leave it unless there is some magic bios to be had that unlocks more potential. Unlikely.

I also found 2088 to be solid in everything as well, but my scores do not improve as I begin to bumps the power limit 3-4 times during the bench which despite running a higher clock actually keeps my scores flat or lower depending on the bench. Valley is abot the same. Firestrike drops a few points. Heaven is about the same but lower as well.


2100-2113 and the quick go I had at 2135 is stable in Valley and in ARMA3 only. But performance, even in Valley begins do go down since at this clock I'm hitting the Pwr limit even more frequently than before and the temps start to creep past 35 as well.

I feel you'll likely be somewhere in the 2050-2100 range with your card once you get it on water. Assuming 35-40C. Higher will be tough without undervolting (lower stability in exchange for lower draw) to stay off the limiter or hard modding the power delivery.

I've had the card since the 10th with plenty of time to explore it, but you've got me thinking...I may try running my top bins at lower voltages to see if I can stay off the little bumps of power limiter and still maintain stabliity at 2088. If I can, this would improve my scores at 2088 by a tiny bit and make it worthwhile running the card there. Will see.

Enjoy the project and good luck! Feel free to PM if you wish. I'm good with the voltage curve and am always willing to bounce ideas.
Edited by KraxKill - 3/16/17 at 3:18pm
post #1629 of 10854
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baasha View Post

Have you guys who are air-cooling removed the back-plates and seen any perceptible difference in temps? My 4 Way GPU sammich is obviously keeping things...hot.

Question, how do you do the four way SLI bridge setup? I mean is a MUST a high bandwidth bridge setup I know.

And you might want to have the Power Limit at 0% and clocks limited to 1800-1900 on all four cards on a lower voltage curve. I'd CTRL F in Afterburner, bring up the voltage curve, CTRL D to set it to defaults, see what the voltage is at for say 1800-1850 with a 0% Power Limit, then set a custom voltage curve with it at 1850 or so at max but topping out at a much lower voltage than 1093v to keep temps down.

And a custom fan curve is a must. You don't need by any means 1093v and max clocks on all four cards unless you put them under water and are benching. They downclock at 60C+ anyways so lower volts and stable lower clocks running four cards best bet on air.

Edit: Thinking about it you don't want the Power Limit at 0% but lower might help.
Edited by KedarWolf - 3/16/17 at 2:48pm
    
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post #1630 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baasha View Post

I must be blind or something - I don't see anything about game codes on the Order Details page - just my address, order number, product I ordered, price, and a button that says "VIEW INVOICE."

Please post a screenshot or something - I already called them on Monday and they said I should receive an email within 24 hours - nothing yet and it's been 3 days! mad.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I bet you get yours soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syan48306 View Post

Looks like in SLI on a default fan profile, it looks like it bumps 2025mhz core and 6000mhz on the memory then starts throttling.
With fans at 100% and both backplates on, the bottom card sits at 59 degrees and the top one at 75 degrees.
Thanks, I will keep this in mind.
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