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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 303

post #3021 of 10870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richiec77 View Post

Woooo....hold on. With an exposed die you did the grain and squish?

If so, that is very very very risky. Being an exposed die, the entire and I mean entire die needs coverage. Not the sides though. Squishing it may not cover the corners and that can lead to the die burning up. Or parts of the die like ROPs or Memory controllers.

CPUs with IHS can use this method without ill effects, but you can not relie on this method for an exposed die.

Advice is to take it apart and reapply. Use a small plastic scraper...edge of a card. Something to act as a spreader. Or a clean finger tip. You can be stable and ok now...but that is not a risk I would take.

Prior results could be from too much paste/bad paste acting more like a heat insulator than a conductor of heat.


The prior unstable result was with the "card tricks", I took my time, put one bead a one side and did a swipe in one slow stroke not to get air bubble and covered the entire die.
Then confirm with a flashlight, it seem uniform and miror like paste. I did not see the die, so there seem there was enough and when last time a remove it the quantity seem perfect too. (apart for the already there paste on the side)
I had stability problem but as I said there where a lot of paste on the side from prior installation..


The last try I did use the X squish method which CAN be risky BUT I tried to apply and remove than re-clean 2 time to see and confirm that my amount use was enough to cover the entire die.

I did an X and the entire die was covered and there was not too much on the edge and it did not touch the cap/res on the side. So although dangerous on direct DIE, I prefer this method now.

Maybe I had trap air bubble with the card trick but I'm pretty sure I did it right and the temps report where fine.
Can a part of the die heat up more than the rest and cause a good temp reading although small part of it overheat.
If so, the yes it could have been air pocket on the die and the method use was different so its a variable.


So all variable from 1900 not stable to 2037 stable would be
Cleaner GPU side(res/cap).
MX4 paste instead of Artic5
X bead method instead of card swipe.


Also I did use thermal paste (artic 5) before on those thing (cap/res anyone know which one there are) but on my CPU to protect them from CLU install use on my delid and I don't seem to have problem with my CPU overclock. (same result that before just cooler temps) but they may be less picky about it. there is also a lot less of those thing on my CPU (only one side,)
post #3022 of 10870
Just Grabbed A MSI Gaming X on Newegg!!! $749.99 thumb.gif
post #3023 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Do you have screenshots of your graph or a tutorial on how to set it up.

I can boost to 2101 when I first start a benchmark but temperature throttle causes me to go down to 2088. I run through like 5 scenes at 2101 with no issues and then boom, thermal throttle.

If I can add some voltage to sustain 2101 MHz, then I think I can sustain it.

You have to keep the temps down but you might be able to get 2100.5 at less that 1.062
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post #3024 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainSplatter View Post

Just for comparison, FE on stock air cooler 100% fan, 7700K@5.1Ghz, 32GB 3200CL15 RAM, 378.78 driver, Win10 64bit:

Time Spy: 9624, Graphics 10584, CPU 6359
Firestrike Ultra 1.1: 7574, Graphics 7622, Physics 16415, Combined 4084
Firestrike Extreme 1.1: 14216, Graphics 15576, Physics 16397, Combined 7667

Regarding the somewhat off-topic discussion about 5775C vs 7700K, in my experience, with both overclocked, u get higher max framerates with the 7700K and also often higher average framerates but the minimum framerates and average framerates in RAM intensive games like Arma 3, all Total War games are better with the 5775C.

So it's essentially max frame rates for shooters the 7700K, higher minimum framerates for simulation and strategy games with the 5775C.
I would concur with that. I would point out that max framerates are less important than smooth better lows unless you aren't maxing monitor refresh rate (or are at least very close) or one has a sizable lead in max frames, not the 2 or 3 fps in this case.. I wouldn't ever recomend somebody go backwards in platforms,, but, if you are on a 4690k or a 4790k on z97, it's a no brainer to upgrade to a 5775c for peanuts. Except if you are like @Alucardis666 and have a cpu/mobo combo worth $2,000 and are using it just for gaming and only have 1 1080ti. In that case I actually WOULD recommend getting a 5775c/z97/another 1080Ti, and a ultrawide 21:9 g-sync for the same price thumb.gif
Edited by Slackaveli - 3/31/17 at 10:55am
post #3025 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshwaa View Post

You have to keep the temps down but you might be able to get 2100.5 at less that 1.062

My temps are 42C to 50C depending on my fan curve. That should be good enough right?
post #3026 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

My temps are 42C to 50C depending on my fan curve. That should be good enough right?

Not sure. I did not mess with the graph till I was on water. Would not hurt to try and see what you get.
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post #3027 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by pez View Post

Hope I'm not being lumped in here as ignorant.

I'm happy to start looking into the CPU, though. I'd love to see more benchmarks with >1080p, though.
Guys, I apologize for saying the forum was ignorant. I was just surprised that I had no less than 5 posters saying I was FoS, and none had yet confirmed that I indeed was not just lying and making up false claims about my cpu b/c I wanted to justify my purchase. It wasnt like that AT ALL, I was trying to share knowledge. I got frustrated. But later several informed posters came and the education of the forum has now occured on this topic. I am sorry I came across so salty; I am a highly functioning autistic and got a little carried away, so on that day less highly functioning lol. I apologize, I hope you guys understand.
Edited by Slackaveli - 3/31/17 at 10:57am
post #3028 of 10870
If you want higher than 1.062 on the curve you need to move the voltage slider on top of AB. Then you can max out to 1.093V
post #3029 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addsome View Post

Any idea on % drop? I read 3-5% online but according to my 20fps loss from 160 to 140 that was about a 15% loss in frames. Would that also translate to 15% loss in compatible games?
bad frames are lost. you dont want them. just keep a frame rate limiter (use Riva, it is best for input lag) @ 142 on a 144Hz monitor for best frame pacing and negligible input lag. And run Fast Sync in NCP. And leave g-sync on of course.
post #3030 of 10870
Quote:
Originally Posted by DooRules View Post

If you want higher than 1.062 on the curve you need to move the voltage slider on top of AB. Then you can max out to 1.093V

How much would the life of the card be reduced by when using 1.093V?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

bad frames are lost. you dont want them. just keep a frame rate limiter (use Riva, it is best for input lag) @ 142 on a 144Hz monitor for best frame pacing and negligible input lag. And run Fast Sync in NCP. And leave g-sync on of course.

Guides online say to turn Vsync on instead of fast sync in the Nvidia control panel. Whats the difference?
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