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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 321

post #3201 of 10543
I can go in peace now! wave2.gif so with curve 1 card hits 2113.5 the other maxes out 2088. probably best if you plan to sli buy two of the same and hopefully in series with sku.

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post #3202 of 10543
Quote:
Originally Posted by PasK1234Xw View Post

EVGA is notorious for binning cards even though they wont admit it. I tried nvidia this time around but didnt get great results. Currently have MSI FE that barely holds 2050. Now that im seeing almost 10fps increase at 2100 making me want to return and try again.

FE edition launch cards are luck of the draw. I'm pretty certain they are all assembled by Nvidia and shipped to each vendor as such.

When you see their custom pcb designs is when binning may be involved as they are only buying chips at that point.
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post #3203 of 10543
Thread Starter 
Being obsessive about these things, I've found under water, no shunt mod, voltage slider maxed out, the trick is to find the best clock speeds you can obtain at the lowest possible voltages for sustained voltages and core speeds. drool.gif

If I run my core at +177 2062 at 1.031v I get a solid 1.031v and 2062 core on a full 1920x1080 Heaven run. This is the lowest I can go on voltages with zero driver crashes at +177 core. drunken.gif

If you look at my GPU-Z log and Afterburner logs not once did I dip below 1.031v or 2062 core. thumb.gif

GPU-ZSensorLog.txt 91k .txt file

HardwareMonitoring.zip 3k .zip file

With 2093 core 1.093v it bounced up and down from 1.050v to 1.093v and in between, clock speeds changing as it does of course. ph34r-smiley.gif

So while you can brag about maximum clocks (I got 2100 benching) for every day 24/7 scenarios a balance between voltages and clock speed seems to be key. cheers.gif

Hope this helps some. I'm reluctant to do the shunt mod as in my case my video card sits vertical and I'm not going to have the CLU run under my EK block and ruin my card. redface.gif
    
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post #3204 of 10543
KedarWolf: Just out of curiosity, what sort of clock speeds can you sustain in a Furmark run with the water cooling?

(both at stock 100% TDP slider and with it maxed at 120%?)

Just trying to get a sense of just how TDP limited these cards are in pure compute loads on the FE boards.

As a comparison datapoint I can sustain 1911mhz/0.95v on my Strix 1070 indefinitely on air in FurMark, but that's with a 200w TDP limit (33% over a stock 1070!) and even then it's still running hard up against the TDP limiter. In games and other things it sits between 2025 and 2050mhz.
post #3205 of 10543
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThingyNess View Post

KedarWolf: Just out of curiosity, what sort of clock speeds can you sustain in a Furmark run with the water cooling?

(both at stock 100% TDP slider and with it maxed at 120%?)

Just trying to get a sense of just how TDP limited these cards are in pure compute loads on the FE boards.

As a comparison datapoint I can sustain 1911mhz/0.95v on my Strix 1070 indefinitely on air in FurMark, but that's with a 200w TDP limit (33% over a stock 1070!) and even then it's still running hard up against the TDP limiter. In games and other things it sits between 2025 and 2050mhz.

Furmark isn't good to stress test with. It can stress a card too much and actually cause harm.

Here is a guide I made though, it's pretty detailed, and after much tweaking the best way to do my card under water no shunt mod. Check it out, interesting read. biggrin.gif

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_20
    
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post #3206 of 10543
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Furmark isn't good to stress test with. It can stress a card too much and actually cause harm.

Here is a guide I made though, it's pretty detailed, and after much tweaking the best way to do my card under water no shunt mod. Check it out, interesting read. biggrin.gif

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_20
good guide. rep'd.
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post #3207 of 10543
Thread Starter 
This is the guide I made for peeps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_20#post_25977285

Do this first.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1625653/how-to-get-voltage-slider-in-afterburner-working-on-a-1080-ti/0_20

Next you want to CTRL F in Afterburner, open the custom voltage curve, CTRL D to set it to defaults. Then you want to hold Shift, drag it to say +145 1999 core at 1050v and hit apply in Afterburner

It'll run around 1999 core at 1.062v in Afterburner in Heaven. Don't run Heaven though, drag the 1031v point up the same as the 1050v point and hit apply.

If you do it right everything to the right of 1031v should be in a straight line.

Try lower voltages if you are on an air cooler and want to keep temps down, though you may need to start with lower clock speeds as well.

Keep your memory between +400 and +500 to start even if you can do more.

Open Heaven at a lower resolution than your screen resolution NOT in full-screen mode so you can still see Afterburner.

When you run Heaven if you get no driver crashes or screen freezing about three seconds and restarting that's good. Now raise the 1031v point with Heaven running one notch at a time to high core speeds like from +145 to +155 and hit apply, then between each time wait 30 seconds or so.

Keep doing this until the driver crashes or screen freezes three seconds and Heaven restarts. Close Heaven then drop in back down one notch, hit apply, and reboot. Your frame rate and stability will be compromised until you reboot.

Now do a full benchmark run with Heaven. If nothing crashes core is good. If driver crashes or screen freezes just drop it down one more notch. At 1.031v max core you can get you should get zero drops in voltages and core speed, should stay at 1.031v and the core it's at.

You can have GPU-Z running and logging to see your core does not drop during the run and be sure you had no driver crashes. If core and volts drop drastically a few seconds, then resumes, your driver crashed.

Ideally, this is what your final voltage curve should look like, but with the maximum core you determine by this method.



After you get core stable run Heaven and hit Shift to pause it at a scene. It'll show the frame rate up top with screen paused. Stop it at a lower frame rate scene when the frame rate only fluctuates a few FPS while paused, usually a scene with no clouds or smoke or anything.

Now adjust your memory up/or down until you get the frame rate as high as it'll go with no driver crashes or artifacts. HIGHER ISN"T ALWAYS BETTER. I find at +642 is a few frames slower than +610.

Your frame rate may only be higher a few FPS at best memory speed but that's fine.

You have now found a low voltage best clock speed compromise for your water/air cooled 1080 Ti. biggrin.gif



Being obsessive about these things, I've found under water, no shunt mod, voltage slider maxed out, the trick is to find the best clock speeds you can obtain at the lowest possible voltages for sustained voltages and core speeds. drool.gif

If I run my core at +177 2062 at 1.031v I get a solid 1.031v and 2062 core on a full 1920x1080 Heaven run. This is the lowest I can go on voltages with zero driver crashes at +177 core. drunken.gif

If you look at my GPU-Z log and Afterburner logs not once did I dip below 1.031v or 2062 core. thumb.gif

GPU-ZSensorLog.txt 91k .txt file

HardwareMonitoring.zip 3k .zip file

With 2093 core 1.093v it bounced up and down from 1.050v to 1.093v and in between, clock speeds changing as it does of course. ph34r-smiley.gif

So while you can brag about maximum clocks (I got 2100 benching) for every day 24/7 scenarios a balance between voltages and clock speed seems to be key. cheers.gif

Hope this helps some. I'm reluctant to do the shunt mod as in my case my video card sits vertical and I'm not going to have the CLU run under my EK block and ruin my card. redface.gif
Edited by KedarWolf - 4/1/17 at 9:32pm
    
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post #3208 of 10543
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

I can run at 2100 for benching but my go to everyday clocks are 2062, at 1.062v, can do a full Heaven bench and only dips a few seconds the entire bench under water. At 1.093v, 2083 for 24/7 use if I did that it jumps up and down from 1.093v to 1.050v and in between. redface.gif

Better a stable 2062 core I think then clocks all over the place. thumb.gif

I don't think it matters if you have voltage fully unlocked to 1.075, if you play a power hungry game then it will calculate power draw , voltage and clocks and push you to a lower bin.

So if you drew a straight ling from 2062@1.032V to 1.050V and then a jump from 2062@1.050V to 2075@1.075V then your card will calculate which bin to put you in according to your power draw.

The Witcher keeps the TDP at close to 120% for me, so it will drop me down to 2063@1.032V automatically in fight scenes but when I'm walking out and about, then I'll be at 2075.

At least this is my experience.

Power draw goes up? Boost will make voltage go down. And whatever clocks you have at that voltage will be where you'll stay until power goes back down again.
post #3209 of 10543
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

I can run at 2100 for benching but my go to everyday clocks are 2062, at 1.062v, can do a full Heaven bench and only dips a few seconds the entire bench under water. At 1.093v, 2083 for 24/7 use if I did that it jumps up and down from 1.093v to 1.050v and in between. redface.gif

Better a stable 2062 core I think then clocks all over the place. thumb.gif

I don't think it matters if you have voltage fully unlocked to 1.075, if you play a power hungry game then it will calculate power draw , voltage and clocks and push you to a lower bin.

So if you drew a straight ling from 2062@1.032V to 1.050V and then a jump from 2062@1.050V to 2075@1.075V then your card will calculate which bin to put you in according to your power draw.

The Witcher keeps the TDP at close to 120% for me, so it will drop me down to 2063@1.032V automatically in fight scenes but when I'm walking out and about, then I'll be at 2075.

At least this is my experience.

Power draw goes up? Boost will make voltage go down. And whatever clocks you have at that voltage will be where you'll stay until power goes back down again.

See two posts above. smile.gif
    
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post #3210 of 10543
Hmm, honestly I just went back to using the slider.

Throw +175 and +400 on my memory, and it just runs more smooth and better. Stable 2075 Mhz.

The voltage curve method was cool to hit 2114 Mhz and show on here to compensate for my small penis but that's all it was good for.
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