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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 421

post #4201 of 10828
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

With the FE and a waterblock, will I be power-limited if I plan on OC'ing the card?
Could that be because it's just not a golden card? So there's really no use for the extra power limit there?
If I understand that correctly, the extra power limit would still be useful then. If I go with an FE plus a waterblock, I will hit the power limit wall before hitting the 2.1GHz wall. I wouldn't want that, would I? I wanna get past the power limit wall and hopefully reach the 2.1GHz wall.
So like my question above, what does power limit really signify when watercooling?
Let's just say, hypothetically, I can get under 40C with watercooling. I would have the room to add more voltage and consequently draw more power. But if I go with an FE card, I wouldn't have that room since I will be power-limited, right?

Well you got to win the lottery still and get a card that can oc to 2088+. Watercooling will get you some higher boost bins. I know for a fact if I was below 40C I'd run benches at 2126, etc.

I've been playing with the Asus bios at night with an open window to get ambient Temps down to 70F and keep my card at 45C. Yeah the extra power draw helps avoid minor power limits.
Edited by SlimJ87D - 4/7/17 at 2:05am
post #4202 of 10828
Quote:
Originally Posted by illypso View Post

So adding more voltage would make the clock less stable, Dam I was a little hype on the project. it would have been fun.

You where able to get a higher stable clock with lower voltage? it wasn't because of power limit clock fluctuation or the more heat from the volt.

those pascal chip are different than my gtx970, it was in love with voltage.
Hassle, not really it would be fun to do,

risk, without risk you get nothing.

Warranty, I have shunt mod already but I did it by soldering a wire on the shunt and before that resistor on the power controller. there to much carnage evidence for warranty.

has for why.... for science ;-)

That's nice and all, but there's also just going to far and wasting time on something that might not even get you gains or even negatively impact you.

It's like do all this soldering to get a 25% chance at 2% more fps or 75% chance of just getting the same or worse performance.

The reward for the risk wouldn't be worth it for me. Heck, the shunt mod wasn't worth it for me, not when the Asus bios is giving me similar results.
post #4203 of 10828
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmeatballs View Post

I hope we can really get statistics on this thread so we can average things out.

Dont sorry, hwbot will start to have statistics.
post #4204 of 10828
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Well you got to win the lottery still and get a card that can oc to 2088+. Watercooling will get you some higher boost bins. I know for a fact if I was below 40C I'd run benches at 2126, etc.

I've been playing with the Asus bios at night with an open window to get ambient Temps down to 70F and keep my card at 45C. Yeah the extra power draw helps avoid minor power limits.

Are you talking about the FE's here?
post #4205 of 10828
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

With the FE and a waterblock, will I be power-limited if I plan on OC'ing the card?
Could that be because it's just not a golden card? So there's really no use for the extra power limit there?
If I understand that correctly, the extra power limit would still be useful then. If I go with an FE plus a waterblock, I will hit the power limit wall before hitting the 2.1GHz wall. I wouldn't want that, would I? I wanna get past the power limit wall and hopefully reach the 2.1GHz wall.
So like my question above, what does power limit really signify when watercooling?
Let's just say, hypothetically, I can get under 40C with watercooling. I would have the room to add more voltage and consequently draw more power. But if I go with an FE card, I wouldn't have that room since I will be power-limited, right?

Not really. It's an architecture issue first and then factors like silicon lottery, voltage, and temperatures come next. I wouldn't worry about OCs too much with whatever card you get.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanuSovereignty View Post

Yeah the misconception here is that the AIB cards are faster and that FE "runs hot".

Now that I've thoroughly destroyed all of that nonsense it's "FE is too loud at 70% RPM".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandora's Box View Post

Vanu at the end of the day man our cards perform almost identically. The difference is mine is quiet and yours is loud, this is my opinion. I think the big difference here is I dont wear headphones and you do. If high fan speed doesn't bother you because you wear headphones, then more power to you. For everyday stuff I dont even overclock my card. It boosts to 1950mhz out of the box and I can't hear the fans unless I put my head right against the card. Enjoy your card, I'm done benchmarking. Just don't be childish about other peoples builds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanuSovereignty View Post

Yeah I agree, that may change if you get an unlocked vbios and can use the better cooling and power delivery. I have to say that your card is actually the better card in that it is much quieter, and from what you've shown from your Firestrike Extreme run much cooler as well (46C vs. 50C). But yeah, we are all in the same vbios boat, more or less. Some cards are showing better power delivery, as Kedarwolf has shown simply flashing to the Strix vbios. That and messing with the voltage is a bit more than I want to get myself into at this point, if anything should go wrong with the card, you are truly screwed if you don't have another GPU lying around to flash back to the default vbios. Nvidia does NOT play games, if you try and send that in with a different vbios you can pretty much kiss $700 goodbye.

But yeah, I have to take back the early criticism of your build, I actually put some thought into it and what is happening is that your card is intaking adequate air through the vented side panel (Silverstone Raven for those not following) and all of that hot air is actually working naturally, flowing out of what would normally be the side of the card up and out through the ceiling. There is not a whole lot of heat recirculating in the case as the fans care continually bringing air in which is forcing the exhaust out of the case. You are actually seeing really phenomenal temperatures. 46C peak in Firestrike Extreme, that is exceeding what an H55 equipped FE is capable of.

Here's to hoping someone unlocks this vbios so everyone rocking 600W 3rd party cooling solutions and 8+8 power delivery can put all of that jazz to use.

When that happens then yeah, AIB will be vastly superior to reference, hands down. For now they are far better acoustically speaking, aesthetically (subjective) and being that they run cooler, you can get away with maybe another 39Mhz or so higher peak frequency keeping the core under 60C without nearly as obtrusive of an acoustical profile.

Repped for putting up with my BS.

THUNDERCATS HO!


PS:

I just ran Normal, Ultra and Time Spy, I'm putting them all here for whoever else wants an E-Peen measuring contest.

Rules:

You must indicate if youre using a shunt mod and / or additional voltage.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19100386? (picked up 300 points GPU compared to 7 but lower combined and overall)

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19100445? (direct improvement over 7)

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19100539?

Very glad to see you both come to an agreement and get along. thumb.gifgrouphug.gif
 
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post #4206 of 10828
Hoping for some help here:

I have an EVGA card and it was running great on air, overclocked well and all was good except for the atrocious fan noise.
So I decided to finally go with a full custom water loop. I got an EK Titan water block and back plate. Followed directions and was pretty meticulous. Went to fire it up and all the lights came in for a split second than click and nothing. I checked the PSU. So I tested it thouroughly and moved on to testing on the bench. I thought it was motherboard so i got another motherboard. Then I thought it was CPU so I got another CPU.

Same thing happened. So I went back to the PSU and tested one connection at a time. It posted with everything connected. Last thing to connect was GPU. It would not turn on. I removed the card and everything turned on. So power to the GPU wether it is actually in the PCIE slot causes nothing to turn on. In slot but no power system will turn on.

What would cause this? Am I correct that my GPU is dead? It must be a short that is causing the system to shut down.

Now I am really worried. If I get a replacement GPU, will this happen again? Did I damage the new mobo and CPU?

I will try and get my hands on another video card to test.

Any ideas, tips, suggestions???

Thanks!!!
Edited by Jaysend - 4/7/17 at 3:03am
post #4207 of 10828
Just arrived thumb.gif

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post #4208 of 10828
It's gonna be so hard to leave that thing sealed and not keep it later. Arghhhh
 
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post #4209 of 10828
Hello guys!!

I currently own a 980Ti and i just triggered a 1080Ti.
Gonna pick it today.
Over here, MSI Gaming X = 820e and Aorus from Gigabyte is 850e (not the extreme).
Wondering if all AOrus have the 150 power, or just the extreme edition.
Gaming G1 is also here for 800e....


If i check price per dollar, gaming G1 for 800e is the best bang for the buck.
What do you think?
Strix is 879e. Asus is crazy....

smile.gif
post #4210 of 10828
Hey guys. Help me smile.gif)
http://imgur.com/a/D2gLG
Its ok ?? Or can better (its my first time on Curve smile.gif
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