Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 429

post #4281 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unnatural View Post

Actually it was the cheapest one I could find here in Italy (less than 740€ shipping included).
it's got the best warranty. you did right. Also, no void for cooling mods is nice, too.
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4282 of 10854
Aorus X drops in Canada tomorrow morning. Get your F5 finger stretched out.
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4283 of 10854
Sorry guys for not reading the entire thread here but is there long story short for FE vs non-FE watercooled scenario? Planning to buy me some 1080 TI goodness any day now.

1. I am tempted to go FE and sink it with EKWB block just because it is "univeral", more common. Based on peoples experinece with 1080s I heard that extra $ is not worth it for non-FE when watercooling, you just pay for better air cooler there.

2. On the other hand some say non-FE cards usually have superior power section which allows for better overclocking, stable and longer lifespan of the card.

Ps. I am still running two GTX670s by Asus on custom PCB and am not really amused by their OC potential (especially compared to reference cards back then). I know it can vary from model to model, card to card, generation to generation but I feel like custom PCB was only marketing. Does it still hold the truth on today's 10xx generation?

I like to rely on forumers personal experience here rather than magazine tests. Apprecaite your input.
Edited by Eco28 - 4/7/17 at 11:47am
post #4284 of 10854
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanuSovereignty View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emissary of Pain View Post

Hey all


Random question, what temps are you guys getting at idle ? ... With P&T limit set to max with fan speed set to 70%, I idle around 50c redface.gif

Something is wrong, is this FE? My FE idles between 24 and 27C with 1:1 fan ratio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

That's nice and all, but there's also just going to far and wasting time on something that might not even get you gains or even negatively impact you.

It's like do all this soldering to get a 25% chance at 2% more fps or 75% chance of just getting the same or worse performance.

The reward for the risk wouldn't be worth it for me. Heck, the shunt mod wasn't worth it for me, not when the Asus bios is giving me similar results.

Totally not worth it. What are you seeing with the Asus Strix BIOS without the shunt-mod? Any additional voltage? I'm somewhat interested in this as I have some thermal-overhead to play around with and my card currently can stay at 70C at 70% RPM so having my fan RPM reduced to 75% isn't an issue, unless I up the voltage significantly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbiker033 View Post

anyone else get the new windows update yesterday, install the new geforce drivers for it and notice that in games the color's seem washed out? less performance?

Redo your settings in NVCP, for me with the PG278Q I like:

Brightness: 47%
Contrast: 52%
Gamma: 98

Digital Vibrance: 53% (any more than 55% with this monitor and reds and blues look way way too saturated).

Edit: Don't forget to select "prefer maximum performance" per game / application (don't set this in global or your browsers will run at 1500MHz lol) Oh and don't install GeFarce experience! I installed it this time around with 378.78 out of curiosity and it dropped my Firestrike Normal GPU score over 1k points and I wasn't even using ShadowPlay to record anything, just having GeFarce running whatever processes was that impactive. And 90% of the time the recommended settings are garbage!

On water no shunt mod. I've seen throttling seem to start as low as 50C on old BIOS but I know for sure it'll throttle at 60C and higher several bins depending how much you are over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

I tried the MSI gaming X, had a bit of throttling, pretty much the same as stock FE BIOS.

The Gigabyte BIOS was clocks all over the place, 500, 800, 1000, never worked right at all. People said the same about the Aorus BIOS as the Gigabyte.

The Strix BIOS I get sustained 2100 at 1.075v, best one so far. smile.gif

So youre holding 2100MHz with Strix at 1.075v with no shunt-mod? Is this because youre keeping the core under 50C? What do you think I would see at 70C with the same voltage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

Well FedEx now says my package was delivered... I was outside a whole 45 minutes before the delivery time and did not see any FedEx people... So my Titan Xp says it was delivered, but in actuality was not. I have a case # from FedEx now.

As for Amazon, they refunded me for the Kryonaut they were unable to deliver...

This is shaping up to be a great week! thumb.gifmad.gif

Man that sucks! I would be so paranoid and upset it wouldn't even be funny. That's why for high dollar items I always pay a little more for signature required, I used to work for the USPS and man, if there is no signature, we don't know the value of the item in the box and we would leave them right on door-mat's sometimes, we would take an effort to hide them but if there is no place to hide them and no signature required they go right on the doormat out in the open.

If it's signature required, you have to sign for it, the courier cannot leave it anywhere.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 5960X Asus Sabertooth X99 Gigabyte 1080 Ti Founders Edition Corsair LPX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
1.2TB Intel 750 PCI-E SSD 2TB Western Digital Black EKWB Predator 360 With One Titan X In Loop. Windows 10 Anniversary Edition 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer XB280HK 4K Gsync QNIX QX2710 LED 27" WQHD 2560x1440 Corsair AX1500i Thermaltake Core X9 
MouseMouse Pad
MadKatz R.A.T. 8 Zowie 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 5960X Asus Sabertooth X99 Gigabyte 1080 Ti Founders Edition Corsair LPX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
1.2TB Intel 750 PCI-E SSD 2TB Western Digital Black EKWB Predator 360 With One Titan X In Loop. Windows 10 Anniversary Edition 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer XB280HK 4K Gsync QNIX QX2710 LED 27" WQHD 2560x1440 Corsair AX1500i Thermaltake Core X9 
MouseMouse Pad
MadKatz R.A.T. 8 Zowie 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4285 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanuSovereignty View Post

I would base my decision on the cost and availability of said water-block and GPU....

I have now the option to get FE, ASUS Strix or MSI Gaming X cards. EKWB used to make full cover water blocks for Asus cards and perhaps few other most popular units after some time. Though I'd assume it may take months to get my hands on other custom water blocks and I am just not sure if it's worth waiting. Even without bios flash/solder is FE noticably behind when not throttled by temp compared to non-FE cards? Thanks for sharing.
post #4286 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanuSovereignty View Post

Something is wrong, is this FE? My FE idles between 24 and 27C with 1:1 fan ratio.
Totally not worth it. What are you seeing with the Asus Strix BIOS without the shunt-mod? Any additional voltage? I'm somewhat interested in this as I have some thermal-overhead to play around with and my card currently can stay at 70C at 70% RPM so having my fan RPM reduced to 75% isn't an issue, unless I up the voltage significantly.
Redo your settings in NVCP, for me with the PG278Q I like:

Brightness: 47%
Contrast: 52%
Gamma: 98

Digital Vibrance: 53% (any more than 55% with this monitor and reds and blues look way way too saturated).

Edit: Don't forget to select "prefer maximum performance" per game / application (don't set this in global or your browsers will run at 1500MHz lol) Oh and don't install GeFarce experience! I installed it this time around with 378.78 out of curiosity and it dropped my Firestrike Normal GPU score over 1k points and I wasn't even using ShadowPlay to record anything, just having GeFarce running whatever processes was that impactive. And 90% of the time the recommended settings are garbage!
So youre holding 2100MHz with Strix at 1.075v with no shunt-mod? Is this because youre keeping the core under 50C? What do you think I would see at 70C with the same voltage?
Man that sucks! I would be so paranoid and upset it wouldn't even be funny. That's why for high dollar items I always pay a little more for signature required, I used to work for the USPS and man, if there is no signature, we don't know the value of the item in the box and we would leave them right on door-mat's sometimes, we would take an effort to hide them but if there is no place to hide them and no signature required they go right on the doormat out in the open.

If it's signature required, you have to sign for it, the courier cannot leave it anywhere.

I don't really get anything out of it, if anything it performs worse for me along with many other users. I just did another test.



What I did learn is that my card likes more on the memory at higher clocks. If I had the memory at 400 Mhz, I'd get lower scores or even a crash. Kinda weird.

Stock Below


ASUS Below


Otherwise before +400 memory at lower than 2100 Mhz core actually hurt my scores.
Edited by SlimJ87D - 4/7/17 at 12:02pm
post #4287 of 10854
My rules are simple:

1. Hybri kit or water loop - FE
2. Air - only AIBs
3. Lazy? Hybrid cards
Tomb
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 5775C 4.2 Ghz 1.36V Asus VII Hero ASUS GTX 1080 Ti STRIX OC 11 GB  G.Skill DDR3 16GB (2x8GB) TridentX 2133MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SSD HyperX Savage 480GB SATA3 Seagate 3.5'', 2TB, SATAIII Corsair H105 Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
XB271HU 1440p 165Hz Corsair K70 LUX RGB EVGA Supernova G2 1000 PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass- Black. 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Razer DeathAdder Chroma EXCO Scropion Athletics Edifier R1800BT SENNHEISER HD598 SPECIAL EDITION - BLACK 
OtherOtherOther
LC-Power LC-CFC-1 Fan Controller Xbox One One Gears of War 4 Crimson Omen specia... Playstation 4 Pro + Licensed PS4 Pad stand 
  hide details  
Reply
Tomb
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 5775C 4.2 Ghz 1.36V Asus VII Hero ASUS GTX 1080 Ti STRIX OC 11 GB  G.Skill DDR3 16GB (2x8GB) TridentX 2133MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SSD HyperX Savage 480GB SATA3 Seagate 3.5'', 2TB, SATAIII Corsair H105 Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
XB271HU 1440p 165Hz Corsair K70 LUX RGB EVGA Supernova G2 1000 PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass- Black. 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Razer DeathAdder Chroma EXCO Scropion Athletics Edifier R1800BT SENNHEISER HD598 SPECIAL EDITION - BLACK 
OtherOtherOther
LC-Power LC-CFC-1 Fan Controller Xbox One One Gears of War 4 Crimson Omen specia... Playstation 4 Pro + Licensed PS4 Pad stand 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4288 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaysend View Post

Hoping for some help here:

I have an EVGA card and it was running great on air, overclocked well and all was good except for the atrocious fan noise.
So I decided to finally go with a full custom water loop. I got an EK Titan water block and back plate. Followed directions and was pretty meticulous. Went to fire it up and all the lights came in for a split second than click and nothing. I checked the PSU. So I tested it thouroughly and moved on to testing on the bench. I thought it was motherboard so i got another motherboard. Then I thought it was CPU so I got another CPU.

Same thing happened. So I went back to the PSU and tested one connection at a time. It posted with everything connected. Last thing to connect was GPU. It would not turn on. I removed the card and everything turned on. So power to the GPU wether it is actually in the PCIE slot causes nothing to turn on. In slot but no power system will turn on.

What would cause this? Am I correct that my GPU is dead? It must be a short that is causing the system to shut down.

Now I am really worried. If I get a replacement GPU, will this happen again? Did I damage the new mobo and CPU?

I will try and get my hands on another video card to test.

Any ideas, tips, suggestions???

Thanks!!!

1:It most definitely is a short
2:You most likely did not damage mobo or the CPU

Solution: this most likely will work - remove the back-plate and try then. If that still doesn't work, remove the block and back-plate, plug it in naked- no danger as the GPU won't be under load, then turn it off once it posts- it should post.

Source: Had the same issue with my 980 TI and the Swiftech back-plate I had. As soon as I took off the back-plate it worked just fine.
post #4289 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaysend View Post

The same
Thing happens on 3 different motherboards. Also the system starts up and behaves fine with the GPU plugged
Into the Pcie slot. It is only when power is hooked up. I tried multiple cables and PSUs. I think something in the GPU is shorted. I took it apart and couldn't find anything obvious...
Just got an RMA from the egg.

I remember you saying this happened after you put a waterblock on. If you tighten it too much and there is too much pressure on the gpu core it will not boot. It happened to me before. Have you tried putting the stock cooler back on?
Edited by RavageTheEarth - 4/7/17 at 12:21pm
post #4290 of 10854
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

I remember you saying this happened after you put a waterblock on. If you tighten it too much and there is too much pressure on the gpu core it will not boot. It happened to me before. Have you tried putting the stock cooler back on?
GentlYEEEE...

Bare die, don't crank that thing.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: NVIDIA
Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club