Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 574

post #5731 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodhawk View Post

Are you using the Hybrid ? The most gains you will see would be with replacing the VRM thermal pads with higher (11W/mK one or 17W/mK ones) I use 11w/mK ones and with my water block the VRM temps dropped by 15-CC depending on where my thermal sensor was placed. That helps more in holding higher clocks at higher voltages.


@KedarWolf, do you mind adding "ASUS Bios with 3 x 10Ohm resistor mod" to the owners sheet?

Yeah I got some fujiblahblah ones too.

I have a kraken x41 mounted as a ghetto hybrid.

But it's crazy, adding only 8 previously made my core go from 51C to 48C (at stock it's at 45). I used a thermal reader, the base plate was at 40C and the heatsinks were at 36C, base of copper was at 40C also, so the top fins were releasing heat. Previously the MIDPLATE was at 45C.

I added some more heatsinks because of the shunt mod which will introduce 50-75 more watts to my card. The vrm will be getting warmer so transferring any heat to the mid-plate is going to help like it did before.

I'm also going to use clu on my die and shim. So that should helps transfer more efficiently.

Then lastly adding a thermal pad behind gpu and mid-plate to transfer dome more heat. Since the pump keeps the gpu around 45C, the mid-plate shouldn't have a problem due to thermal expansion.

Will post results tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.
post #5732 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Yeah I got some fujiblahblah ones too.

I have a kraken x41 mounted as a ghetto hybrid.

But it's crazy, adding only 8 previously made my core go from 51C to 48C (at stock it's at 45). I used a thermal reader, the base plate was at 40C and the heatsinks were at 36C, base of copper was at 40C also, so the top fins were releasing heat. Previously the MIDPLATE was at 45C.

I added some more heatsinks because of the shunt mod which will introduce 50-75 more watts to my card. The vrm will be getting warmer so transferring any heat to the mid-plate is going to help like it did before.

I'm also going to use clu on my die and shim. So that should helps transfer more efficiently.

Then lastly adding a thermal pad behind gpu and mid-plate to transfer dome more heat. Since the pump keeps the gpu around 45C, the mid-plate shouldn't have a problem due to thermal expansion.

Will post results tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.

Yeah those copper probably help , but better thermal pads on GPU's are so under rated, specially when someone plans on using a power mod and running it at high voltages.
post #5733 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandora's Box View Post

What you are doing is redundant. once you reach your monitors max refresh rate, gsync switches off and vsync kick in. using RTS or any other program to limit fps isnt doing anything.

There are studies that show limiting fps below monitor refresh rate by 1 or 2 fish resuxes input lag compares to vsync kicking in.
post #5734 of 10855
this
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

There are studies that show limiting fps below monitor refresh rate by 1 or 2 fish resuxes input lag compares to vsync kicking in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandora's Box View Post

What you are doing is redundant. once you reach your monitors max refresh rate, gsync switches off and vsync kick in. using RTS or any other program to limit fps isnt doing anything.
yeah it IS, it's eliminating input lag. i agree, best method is 1 fps less than your Hz, locked, ie 59 on a 60Hz, or i do 142 on my 144Hz. Lock it, v-sync off, g-sync on. NO input lag. V-sync method there is some lag, especially if you are hitting over 135fps, which we are on 1080Tis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Yeah I got some fujiblahblah ones too.

I have a kraken x41 mounted as a ghetto hybrid.

But it's crazy, adding only 8 previously made my core go from 51C to 48C (at stock it's at 45). I used a thermal reader, the base plate was at 40C and the heatsinks were at 36C, base of copper was at 40C also, so the top fins were releasing heat. Previously the MIDPLATE was at 45C.

I added some more heatsinks because of the shunt mod which will introduce 50-75 more watts to my card. The vrm will be getting warmer so transferring any heat to the mid-plate is going to help like it did before.

I'm also going to use clu on my die and shim. So that should helps transfer more efficiently.

Then lastly adding a thermal pad behind gpu and mid-plate to transfer dome more heat. Since the pump keeps the gpu around 45C, the mid-plate shouldn't have a problem due to thermal expansion.

Will post results tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.
it's a helluva well thought out plan.
Edited by Slackaveli - 4/16/17 at 10:35pm
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5735 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

yeah it IS, it's eliminating input lag. i agree, best method is 1 fps less than your Hz, locked, ie 59 on a 60Hz, or i do 142 on my 144Hz. Lock it, v-sync off, g-sync on. NO input lag. V-sync method there is some lag, especially if you are hitting over 135fps, which we are on 1080Tis.

The problem is not everyone likes even numbers slack-man. I grew up with ocd so I need odd numbers. I keep it at 141.99 fps cap

All the clocks in my house have had all even numbers removed.
post #5736 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

There are studies that show limiting fps below monitor refresh rate by 1 or 2 fish resuxes input lag compares to vsync kicking in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

The problem is not everyone likes even numbers slack-man. I grew up with ocd so I need odd numbers. I keep it at 141.99 fps cap

All the clocks in my house have had all even numbers removed.
grew up with it? SHizzz, it's here every day! I like your thinking, though.

We are right about it, though. Framerate limiter and v-sync off w g-sync is best imo, and i tried several methods.
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5737 of 10855
The Inno3d bios seems ok. Out of the box it boosts to 2025/5700. Still power limits like crazy in supo 4k. Setting the power limit to 116% in afterburner gets you like 313W, you need to use Nvidia-smi to get the extra 2W.

All 3 displayports are enabled.
Main rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5930k Asus X99 Deluve Nvidia GTX 1080Ti  Corsair Dominator 3000Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
Intel 600p 1x420 rad, 1x480 rad, D5 Pump Windows 10 Pro x64 EVGA 1000w 
Case
Enthoo Primo 
  hide details  
Reply
Main rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5930k Asus X99 Deluve Nvidia GTX 1080Ti  Corsair Dominator 3000Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
Intel 600p 1x420 rad, 1x480 rad, D5 Pump Windows 10 Pro x64 EVGA 1000w 
Case
Enthoo Primo 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5738 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by mshagg View Post

The Inno3d bios seems ok. Out of the box it boosts to 2025/5700. Still power limits like crazy in supo 4k. Setting the power limit to 116% in afterburner gets you like 313W, you need to use Nvidia-smi to get the extra 2W.

All 3 displayports are enabled.
sounds like a winner for the guys with middling or poor cards. May enable them to get 2000 to hold.
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
EVA3.1
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Broadwell i7-5775c MSI Z97m gaming Aorus Gtx 1080Ti Corsair Dominator Platinum 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Adata ssd Asetek 240mm Win10 Samsung 8 series suhdtv  
Mouse
Logitech G602 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5739 of 10855
Quote:
Originally Posted by DStealth View Post

Seems i had a defective card or at least some of the components not sure what they're for...but yesterday while playing 2088@1.043v temperatures were in 58-63* range with a very aggressive fan curve my PC shut down instantly ... it was late and went to bеd...
Today disassembled the card and it looked burned on the back, attaching picture
The saddest thing is it was connected via DVI port and took my good old precious 30" 2560х1600 IPS Apple cinema HD monitor with it mad.gif

Sorry a bit late to post.
That blown component looks like a regulation IC for the power draw from the 8pin supply just from its location alone.

Looks to me like a power surge went through that cable and took out that part and additionally your monitor. You may want to check your PSU and/or ensuring your PC has surge protection, just to be safe in the event your replacement GPU also suffers the same fate..

The 2nd possibility though extremely unlikely is the component blew due to overheating under the backplate and the progressively unlikely possibility is load balancing messed up and sent too much power through that rail.
post #5740 of 10855
Yes from the location my assumption is the same...do not know how load balancing on these cards woks i.e 1st/2nd 8pin connector and PCI-e line....but may the shunt mod be related to it as the resistance on all 3 shunts changed by quite margin and not linearly for sure...So be aware with modding them. Yes my PSU has surge protection had to turn it back manually to operate with the paper clip on the 24 pin connector after the fail. And yes overheating is also possible with these backplates, but judging from Guru3d review at this point there is not so much heat generated...rolleyes.gif
My rig
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3960x DX79SI GTX 980 G1 G.Skill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingMonitor
intel no D14 Apple CINEMA 30" 2560*1600 
KeyboardPowerCase
Logitech Illuminate SS-1250 GOLD HAF933 
  hide details  
Reply
My rig
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3960x DX79SI GTX 980 G1 G.Skill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingMonitor
intel no D14 Apple CINEMA 30" 2560*1600 
KeyboardPowerCase
Logitech Illuminate SS-1250 GOLD HAF933 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: NVIDIA
Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club