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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 582

post #5811 of 10494
@Kedarwolf

I still don't seem to be on the list.
Jaysend
SLI EVGA 1080 ti FE
2050/5999
post #5812 of 10494
Quote:
Originally Posted by KickAssCop View Post

Temps at full load and clock speeds?

Top card sits at 82, bottom at 71 running at 2000MHz core and 12000MHz memory.
 
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post #5813 of 10494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexiconman View Post

Factually incorrect.

https://youtu.be/F8bFWk61KWA

i tried to tell him tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addsome View Post

Whats this F4 bios everyones talking about?
Aorus bios, it's the one with "efficient performance" they call it, it has 250w base with a 150% slider, so if you have a carrd that crashes at stock on the 300W base, switching to this allows it to be stable. Of course, that also allows giga to avoid an rma and if mine wasnt stable at 300w id rma it.
Edited by Slackaveli - 4/17/17 at 2:43pm
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post #5814 of 10494
Is CLU on the GPU die actually worth it? I'm leaning towards no.

Say you have a idle to load temperature of 25C. If we analyze where the temperature gradients, we see that it's mostly in the radiator to air interface and the GPU to coolant interface. In my experience, a typical Asetek cold plate can do a coolant-GPU delta of 8C with Kryonaut (on a 980Ti) and maybe 6C with CLU. Great! that's a huge % change in temperature on that interface... but we need to take a look at the gradient on the radiator as well. A 300W GPU still puts out 300W heat that needs to be rejected, and a 120mm radiator might do it at 15C? So the end result of using CLU is a 2C drop overall, from 23C to 21C. Not going to make a difference at all in overclocking and you've really ratcheted up the risk factor.
post #5815 of 10494
Quote:
Originally Posted by outofmyheadyo View Post

If I were you I would just get founders, you have plenty of founder cards to choose from ( and plenty of blocks, not just EK ) and after shuntmoding mine does 2100/12000 with 1.063v.
If you plan on watercooling anyway paying extra for the better cooler makes no sense, and be it mega super or hyper version, I am pretty sure none of em will come close to 2200mhz anyway, so save yourself some money and hassle and get founders.

I wouldn't necessarily be paying extra for a cooler, since it'll be removed anyway, I'm paying extra for a pre-binned card. I just want a card that overclocks well, stable, with a new firmware flashed to it. I can't justify the price increase for a Titan given what the 1080 Ti can do, but I can justify paying extra for a pre-binned card with a higher ASIC, no matter what kind of cooler it has. Actually, it doesn't even need a cooler. Too bad manufacturers wouldn't sell a stripped down version with no cooler, but it's all about the cooler, and the RGB lights, which are another way for manufacturers to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd trying to convince you to pay a premium for their card over someone else's. At the end of the day, it's all the same thing, except silicon lottery winners can be predetermined by binning, but you have to pay a premium for this. It's not really the cooler you're paying for. It's a better card. They just can't sell it like that so they throw in something that looks different to justify the higher price.
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post #5816 of 10494
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

I wouldn't necessarily be paying extra for a cooler, since it'll be removed anyway, I'm paying extra for a pre-binned card. I just want a card that overclocks well, stable, with a new firmware flashed to it. I can't justify the price increase for a Titan given what the 1080 Ti can do, but I can justify paying extra for a pre-binned card with a higher ASIC, no matter what kind of cooler it has. Actually, it doesn't even need a cooler. Too bad manufacturers wouldn't sell a stripped down version with no cooler, but it's all about the cooler, and the RGB lights, which are another way for manufacturers to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd trying to convince you to pay a premium for their card over someone else's. At the end of the day, it's all the same thing, except silicon lottery winners can be predetermined by binning, but you have to pay a premium for this. It's not really the cooler you're paying for. It's a better card. They just can't sell it like that so they throw in something that looks different to justify the higher price.

Well I don't watercool but If I would put blocks on it anyway and do not plan to do shunt mod I would grab Aorus Xtreme card as it has 375W Power Limit compare to other AIBs 330W and reference 300W.

But again, I am not on water so yeah smile.gif
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post #5817 of 10494
I don't believe anyone is binning the chips for these cards. If they are, the results would suggest they're doing a terrible job of it.
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post #5818 of 10494
Unlocking the FE's true potential

After hitting power limits, I could not take it anymore. I knew that it was time for be to do the shunt mod. My card could bench at 2114 Mhz in heaven, and I believe it could go higher. After all, I've seen it boost to 2138 Mhz before without crashing.

I found it as a OC member, it was irresponsible for me to have so much potential thrown away. My theory was that I had a pretty nice golden card. That theory was proved to me today.

What I needed to prepare for

The shunt mod, if done right without too much CLU, will drop your 100% to 75-80%. This means that at 75%-80% you are drawing 300-310 Watts.This can be dangerous because at 120%, that is 450 Watts!

Because I set out to perform this shunt mod, I need to upgrade my cooling. My x41 was nearly at its limits. The liquid temperature was at 40C and my GPU temperatures stock was at 48C. If efficiency was 100%, then liquid and GPU temperatures would be equal according to newton's energy equation. Thus, I knew there was things I could do.

1. I could improve the TIM in between my shim and heat pump. Originally, I was planning to CLU the die and other side of the shim, but after looking online, CLU is really bad for dies from a RMA stand point, it leaves stains. So I decided to just use Gelid Extreme on the die and CLU on the shim and pump. Eureka, this got liquid temperatures from 40C to 44C, this means that more heat was being transferred to the radiator.

2. The midplate is a heatsink itself. It is connected to VRMs, VRAMs and other components. If I was going to introduce more watts to this card, I need to keep them cool. Originally I had placed 8 heatsinks on my midplate. This dropped my core temperature from 51C to 48C. Taking thermal measurements, the shims were at 36C. I knew that if I added more heatsinks, specially closer to the VRMs, it would help with the extra 50 to 75 Watts.



3. Finally, the backplate was not absorbing any heat whatsoever. The aluminum plate is somewhat thin, my theory is that the plate was too thin to absorb heat from the GPU, it would cause warping and flexing. But using my engineering knowledge and deduction, I knew that my AIO was keeping my GPU at 48C, so 45-60C wouldn't harm the back plate at all. So I added a thermal pad in between the back of the GPU and the backplate.




The shunt mod

For my shunt mod, I used CLU and liquid electrical tape.





My results

My previous calculations were correct. From the shunt mod, running a light heaven, I was drawing 300-310 Watts at 75-80% power draw. That means at 100%, I would be drawing 400 Watts.

At max, my card was drawing 95-100%, which mean I was drawing 400 Watts. This is confirmed below!



Here are my thermal results

Stock at 300 Watts, 48C.

Shunt modded at 400 Watts, 50C

All my modifications have successfully fought off the incoming 100 Watts.

After some light benchmarks, I can easily hit 2152 Mhz @ 1.093v with no limiting.



I have decided to call it a day and spend time with my wife. I have not pushed this card to is maximum core clock yet.

With great power... comes great responsibility... Conclusion

This card is now drawing 100 extra watts, which is very dangerous. Because I do not want a $700 paper weight, my next step is to find a balance between my maximum core clock and voltage and try to limit my power draw to 350-375 Watts.

Do I recommend this mod?
To people on water, yes!

To people on AIO, maybe. You must take the extra steps I did to ward off that 100 Watts of extra heat that will be coming to your card.

To people on AIR, No. I do not recommend this mod to people on air. It can potentially be dangerous.

To people with partner cards. Maybe... you have to think about it, you're adding 33% more power and that can increase your temperatures by 33% as a rough estimate. It can be counter productive due to thermal throttling. And if you don't take extra pre-cautions to cool your card, it can blow up!
post #5819 of 10494
I feel dumb having to ask this but will a EVGA 550w G2 PSU be enough for an overclocked FTW3 and an overclocked 6600k?

Since I kind of need to change to a short PSU anyways, for my core 500.
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post #5820 of 10494
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

I feel dumb having to ask this but will a EVGA 550w G2 PSU be enough for an overclocked FTW3 and an overclocked 6600k?

Since I kind of need to change to a short PSU anyways, for my core 500.

Look at my post above. My system with an FE when it was stock would draw 434 Watts. The FTW3 will draw 30 to 50 watts more than a stock FE.

Do you really want to risk running your PSU close to 100%? Ill tell you it won't last long.
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