Originally Posted by SlimJ87D Unlocking the FE's true potential
After hitting power limits, I could not take it anymore. I knew that it was time for be to do the shunt mod. My card could bench at 2114 Mhz in heaven, and I believe it could go higher. After all, I've seen it boost to 2138 Mhz before without crashing.
I found it as a OC member, it was irresponsible for me to have so much potential thrown away. My theory was that I had a pretty nice golden card. That theory was proved to me today.What I needed to prepare for
The shunt mod, if done right without too much CLU, will drop your 100% to 75-80%. This means that at 75%-80% you are drawing 300-310 Watts.This can be dangerous because at 120%, that is 450 Watts!
Because I set out to perform this shunt mod, I need to upgrade my cooling. My x41 was nearly at its limits. The liquid temperature was at 40C and my GPU temperatures stock was at 48C. If efficiency was 100%, then liquid and GPU temperatures would be equal according to newton's energy equation. Thus, I knew there was things I could do.
1. I could improve the TIM in between my shim and heat pump. Originally, I was planning to CLU the die and other side of the shim, but after looking online, CLU is really bad for dies from a RMA stand point, it leaves stains. So I decided to just use Gelid Extreme on the die and CLU on the shim and pump. Eureka, this got liquid temperatures from 40C to 44C, this means that more heat was being transferred to the radiator.
2. The midplate is a heatsink itself. It is connected to VRMs, VRAMs and other components. If I was going to introduce more watts to this card, I need to keep them cool. Originally I had placed 8 heatsinks on my midplate. This dropped my core temperature from 51C to 48C. Taking thermal measurements, the shims were at 36C. I knew that if I added more heatsinks, specially closer to the VRMs, it would help with the extra 50 to 75 Watts.
3. Finally, the backplate was not absorbing any heat whatsoever. The aluminum plate is somewhat thin, my theory is that the plate was too thin to absorb heat from the GPU, it would cause warping and flexing. But using my engineering knowledge and deduction, I knew that my AIO was keeping my GPU at 48C, so 45-60C wouldn't harm the back plate at all. So I added a thermal pad in between the back of the GPU and the backplate.The shunt mod
For my shunt mod, I used CLU and liquid electrical tape.My results
My previous calculations were correct. From the shunt mod, running a light heaven, I was drawing 300-310 Watts at 75-80% power draw. That means at 100%, I would be drawing 400 Watts.
At max, my card was drawing 95-100%, which mean I was drawing 400 Watts. This is confirmed below!
Here are my thermal results
Stock at 300 Watts, 48C.
Shunt modded at 400 Watts, 50C
All my modifications have successfully fought off the incoming 100 Watts.
After some light benchmarks, I can easily hit 2152 Mhz @ 1.093v with no limiting.
I have decided to call it a day and spend time with my wife. I have not pushed this card to is maximum core clock yet.With great power... comes great responsibility... Conclusion
This card is now drawing 100 extra watts, which is very dangerous. Because I do not want a $700 paper weight, my next step is to find a balance between my maximum core clock and voltage and try to limit my power draw to 350-375 Watts.
Do I recommend this mod?
To people on water, yes!
To people on AIO, maybe. You must take the extra steps I did to ward off that 100 Watts of extra heat that will be coming to your card.
To people on AIR, No. I do not recommend this mod to people on air. It can potentially be dangerous.
To people with partner cards. Maybe... you have to think about it, you're adding 33% more power and that can increase your temperatures by 33% as a rough estimate. It can be counter productive due to thermal throttling. And if you don't take extra pre-cautions to cool your card, it can blow up!