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post #6411 of 10794
How do you guys overclock the card so its only using the extra power while playing game?> rather than blasting 100% all the time? or only when Bench marking?
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post #6412 of 10794
Just received my second SLI bridge. Although the geforce alarm is gone it did not made a real difference at 1080p or 4K benchtest

Both test with all fan set to max, with a preheating run to get same temps.

was 12573
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19422600?

is now 12601
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19422753?

Whthin margin of error.

Maybe less stutter but there was like none already...


Is there anyone with a benchmark of firestrike ultra on a 5775C with 2 gtx 1080ti clock at arround 2038 to compare (I did have some intermittent throttle in bench test due to the heat of my second non-watercooled card, package is coming next week)
I would like to see if I should buy that processor or keep the 4790k clock a 4.9 (will try 5.0) it crash the second I start prime95 a 4.7 but it run everything at 4.9 flawless... so I don't use prime95 anymore lolll

Thank you



Edit, just overclock it to 5.0 and got #1 1 in my category nice
12975
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12396804http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12396804

Edit: just tried 5.1 at 1.4V did not work, windows freeze after boot I'm staying 5.0 at 1.4V to see if stable in long game. I don't want to go higher than 1.4V... for now...

edit: BSOD at 5.0 in game, back to 4.9
Edited by illypso - 4/20/17 at 11:17pm
post #6413 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

1080TiMSISeaHawk.zip 155k .zip file
is this BIOS 1080Ti Sea Hawk? Can I use it for 1080Ti FE. I see they have 6+8pin connectors and TDP 250W ?
Sketch.png
Edited by leequan2009 - 4/20/17 at 10:40pm
post #6414 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmpotu View Post

Thanks for going over this in detail I didn't know only power limiting will down clock. Also didn't know the relationship of Vop (ps, I did have points on the curve above 1.093)

My Voltage % is at +100 so I don't think I can go up more there.

Q:So since my system is not crashing should I keep increasing boost clock small amount and test to see if I can push it more... even though it's showing Vrel? Is it possible that I might get lucky creating a lower voltage curve at like 1.012v and maybe lower my clock just a little.

Yeah only Temp and Power will down clk, and if you have it on +100 then you can use bins up to 1.093v but I wouldn't smile.gif For Vrel, it may give better scores if you drop the highest first point of flat voltage line down one. So if it was flat from 1.050v at 2050 say then drop 1.050 down to 2037 so it now clks up to 2050 at 1.062.
The best better is to individually overclock test each voltage point from 1.000v up to say 1.075v and make a curve based on those clks. You should be able to raise each point til it locks up and then drop down of freq bin, cntrl+d to reset curve, then do next voltage point. This way if it does limit and drop down a bin then its going as fast as it can each down clk and giving you the best score it can. once you start hitting green in games then flat line from that voltage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyL4 View Post

Ok I need help with this voltage curve thing. Read up on it and attempted to find my lowest voltage for 2012mhz, I think I found it at like 1.050 etc. So I set that and every other voltage past that to 2012mhz and did some benchmarking. It instantly downclocks to 1999mhz after a couple seconds of heaven.

Yesterday when I had 2025 set to 1.093 volts and 2012 set to the next 3 lower volt levels it stayed at 2012 for the entire duration of the benchmark.

What am I not getting and/or doing wrong?

That's what GPU boost is supposed to do, it may down clock if it can't feed enough voltage so set it to +100 to ensure it can feed as per your curve. various temps and power can effect it too.
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post #6415 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fieldsweeper View Post

How do you guys overclock the card so its only using the extra power while playing game?> rather than blasting 100% all the time? or only when Bench marking?
optimal power setting in nvidia control panel and at least two different afterburner settings. One locked voltage, one noe. use locked for gaming/benching and switch to the other profile for instant downclock from 2088 to 240 (in my case) and full load is over 300w, but idling at those clocks still uses ~100w+ where-as if you are at 240Mhz idle on optimal power setting it's 24w power draw from the gpu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by illypso View Post

Just received my second SLI bridge. Although the geforce alarm is gone it did not made a real difference at 1080p or 4K benchtest

Both test with all fan set to max, with a preheating run to get same temps.

was 12573
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19422600?

is now 12601
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19422753?

Whthin margin of error.

Maybe less stutter but there was like none already...


Is there anyone with a benchmark of firestrike ultra on a 5775C with 2 gtx 1080ti clock at arround 2038 to compare (I did have some intermittent throttle in bench test due to the heat of my second non-watercooled card, package is coming next week)
I would like to see if I should buy that processor or keep the 4790k clock a 4.9 (will try 5.0) it crash the second I start prime95 a 4.7 but it run everything at 4.9 flawless... so I don't use prime95 anymore lolll

Thank you



Edit, just overclock it to 5.0 and got #1 1 in my category nice
12975
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12396804http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12396804

Edit: just tried 5.1 at 1.4V did not work, windows freeze after boot I'm staying 5.0 at 1.4V to see if stable in long game. I don't want to go higher than 1.4V... for now...

edit: BSOD at 5.0 in game, back to 4.9
i would but i only have 1 1080Ti. Ill say this, everyone who gets a 5775c loves it and doesnt regret it, even those who have 5.0ghz 4790ks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 View Post

Yeah only Temp and Power will down clk, and if you have it on +100 then you can use bins up to 1.093v but I wouldn't smile.gif For Vrel, it may give better scores if you drop the highest first point of flat voltage line down one. So if it was flat from 1.050v at 2050 say then drop 1.050 down to 2037 so it now clks up to 2050 at 1.062.
The best better is to individually overclock test each voltage point from 1.000v up to say 1.075v and make a curve based on those clks. You should be able to raise each point til it locks up and then drop down of freq bin, cntrl+d to reset curve, then do next voltage point. This way if it does limit and drop down a bin then its going as fast as it can each down clk and giving you the best score it can. once you start hitting green in games then flat line from that voltage.
That's what GPU boost is supposed to do, it may down clock if it can't feed enough voltage so set it to +100 to ensure it can feed as per your curve. various temps and power can effect it too.
well done, dude. that's how you fatten up the curve right there. tedious but the very most effective method.
Edited by Slackaveli - 4/20/17 at 11:31pm
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post #6416 of 10794
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post #6417 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyL4 View Post

I am very disappointed in my gaming x. Can barely get 2012/5800 stable if that.... still testing.

Idk if I should return it or not.
you gotta give us more to go on. what settings? voltage ? how much? what tests? how does it crash? is your cpu OC'd? Is it for sure stable? Have you tried the curve? Did you lock it? What about at 1.043 or 1.05v, what does it crash at at those voltages?

I bet that card is fine. In fact, 2012/2025 is at or above average OC on these. they have 1000 more cores than a 1080, remember that. Seeing all these repeat posts of the same dozen guys who managed to get 2100 to stick can be disheartening. But look at how many cards some of us run through. Look at all the extra paste and heatsinks and shunt mods and soldered wires and a few burned out cards; and bios mods and time spent benching/testing/forum posting, returning and rebuying and reselling and tearing apart our rigs and draining loops again and again...


The guy who bought the Zotac and plugged it in and was running 2037 right off the bat with 2 minutes involved in the whole process is 100% the winner in this whole thread. Luckily I enjoy the whole process, but it is work, no doubt about it. I.T. work for fun.

Keep your chin up. That GPU smokes any you've ever had by A LOT. It's probably better than anybody you know in real life's gpu. It's probably overkill for your current monitor anyway. It games silently and it doesnt run hot. It's all good, brother. We are here to help if you really need to see 2037 or 2050 to be happy. I bet we can get you there at least.
Edited by Slackaveli - 4/20/17 at 11:41pm
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post #6418 of 10794
Hmm not sure if I am missing a step.

When I run Time Spy I get this graph below. It's a rainbow graph. The system stays at the lowest binned voltage in the flat line (1.012v) to maintain the OC, However from what I can tell the rainbow means it wants more than that lowest binned voltage for that requested frequency (2050 I think). So shouldn't it just jump up the voltage since there are other binned voltage values available? Like move up to 1.025 and keep going up if it needs more voltage? The interesting thing is that it does keep the core frequency one below what I set like has been discussed in the video example. So it runs at 2037 for the whole Time Spy run. I think it failed when I was testing the same clocks at (0.993v) before I adjusted my curve.

So do I just ignore the Rainbow colors as long as it's passing the benchmark and not downclocking below what I have set and not giving me worse performance in the benchmarks? If yes I assume I'd then follow @Nico67's advice and test to see what stable OC I can get at each Voltage Bin without a failure and then readjust the curve on each voltage bin to the best stable clocks that don't downclock me?

I watched the great video that KedarWolf made and I setup the voltage curve below (Thanks Kedar for the video)
I have not tested each point until it crashes yet @Nico67, however thanks for the tip. I will try testing all the points tomorrow after work.



Edited by gmpotu - 4/20/17 at 11:56pm
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post #6419 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmpotu View Post

Hmm not sure if I am missing a step.


So do I just ignore the Rainbow colors as long as it's passing the benchmark and not downclocking below what I have set and not giving me worse performance in the benchmarks? If yes I assume I'd then follow @Nico67's advice and test to see what stable OC I can get at each Voltage Bin without a failure and then readjust the curve on each voltage bin to the best stable clocks that don't downclock me?




close and open GPU-Z, I think it can bug out and rainbow, did that for me once too, but also default the curve using cntrl+d and start testing just 1.000v, ignore score for now or your just chasing your tail basically smile.gif All your interested in is stability with no green at that voltage, and don't touch any voltage points below that as they don't matter.
It is tedious as Slackaveli rightly noted, but its the same principle as overclocking a CPU, pick a voltage a see what the max clock is, the raise the voltage a step and see how much more you can get. 1.000v stable is likely a good point for all cards not to get green in most benchmarks. Tests like SuPo 4K are designed to ruin your day smile.gif, but games will be fine.
My gaming curve is default FE curve, with 1.050 raised to 2101 and flat after and its fine because the games I have been playing barely reach 120% if ever.
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post #6420 of 10794
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmpotu View Post

Hmm not sure if I am missing a step.

When I run Time Spy I get this graph below. It's a rainbow graph. The system stays at the lowest binned voltage in the flat line (1.012v) to maintain the OC, However from what I can tell the rainbow means it wants more than that lowest binned voltage for that requested frequency (2050 I think). So shouldn't it just jump up the voltage since there are other binned voltage values available? Like move up to 1.025 and keep going up if it needs more voltage? The interesting thing is that it does keep the core frequency one below what I set like has been discussed in the video example. So it runs at 2037 for the whole Time Spy run. I think it failed when I was testing the same clocks at (0.993v) before I adjusted my curve.

So do I just ignore the Rainbow colors as long as it's passing the benchmark and not downclocking below what I have set and not giving me worse performance in the benchmarks? If yes I assume I'd then follow @Nico67's advice and test to see what stable OC I can get at each Voltage Bin without a failure and then readjust the curve on each voltage bin to the best stable clocks that don't downclock me?

I watched the great video that KedarWolf made and I setup the voltage curve below (Thanks Kedar for the video)
I have not tested each point until it crashes yet @Nico67, however thanks for the tip. I will try testing all the points tomorrow after work.


yeah, do it the tried and true way and you'll know your card very well. If you push it more and it crashes, you'll know it so well you'll say, "Damn , I knew I pushed 1.043v a little too hard". Just knowing your limits is the key to maximizing your overclock.

That rainbow is weird. i only got it a few times. try a baby voltage bump and lock it one higher up the curve and see if it goes away or at least goes to just blue.
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