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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 711

post #7101 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

I used CLU and I insulated the resistor and solder joints using liquid electrical tape which is really cheap and removable.

Before you shunt mod, you can see if more voltage actually does anything for you.

Voltage allows me to go form 2088 Mhz to 2114 Mhz and requires 1.075-1.092v to run. So that power limited me when I was at that voltage.

So before you shunt mod, ask yourself

1. Does your card get higher clocks at higher voltages? A lot of people don't benefit from higher voltages.
2. Can your card do a run through Heaven benchmark and do some scenes at these voltages and clocks? My card was able to run at 2114 Mhz through certain scenes of Heaven, so that gave me an idea if the shunt was worth it for me or not.

If your answer is yes to both of these, then shunt mod might be worth it. If not, then shunt mod won't be worth it.

For me personally, it's nice playing Witcher 3 with the shunt mod. Previously, during intense fight scenes my card would be at 2088, then go down to 2073, 2068 and back up to 2088. It was jumping around and when it jumped around, I would experience stutter and slow downs even with G-Sync. Probably the card going berserk and having to recalculate TDP.

From my experience, if your maximum power draw is 300 Watts, starting at 280 Watts the card starts recalculating TDP and freaking out since it's a safe guard for you to not go past 300 Watts. Although I have seen the card temporarily hit 330 watts stock a few times it never lasts for more than a few seconds.

So be careful with these spikes if you see and read them. Try and read the power that is consistant. If for example Afterburner shows you hit 124% or 132% at some point, then that spike is in your data.



So when your card is reading 119%-120% that's your real maximum power draw. Honestly I would just hold a phone and record your wall reader and record it and when you see power draw hit 119%-120% I would just stop the video 5 seconds after that. That way you know in the last 10 seconds of your video you got the max power draw.

Then do it with Palit bios and when it hits 116% (hopefully it does), do the same thing. We don't want to read those temporary "spikes" which can be like 130% randomly.

Good luck! And thank you for investigating this in the name of science.

Are you planning on leaving the CLU on after going through the "experimental" phase we all like to do when we first get new cards? Or removing the mod in a week or so?

And aye I can't wait to see what she's capable of; hope to god I don't get a lemon, lol.
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post #7102 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

Plug in "your favorite card + SLI microstutter" into google and try to say that again?

I used to run nothing but SLI and then I did the unthinkable and tried a single card. Lower ultimate FPS yes but the fluidity is noticeable. The lack of micro stutter and latency on a single card is alone worth it. Most are better off to beef up a single card over getting SLI.

I don't even game with max settings anyway as I need ˜100fps so game at 1440p. For competitive online play I turn off a lot of FPS killers like motion blur and if that's not enough you can always turn down some settings. That's much more enjoyable than having no escape from microstutter. Once you notice it, there is no escape.

The power draw associated with it and the feeling of having a $700 paperweight in poorly optimized titles only adds to the grief. Not something I want to experience again.

I haven't even begun to talk about the lack of proper G-sync support in SLI. Where the cards are not 100% utilized and a single card actually performs better.

This thread has enough pain and frustration to have convinced me to not run 1080 in SLI and just run a single Ti.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946818/geforce-1000-series/gtx-1080-sli-low-gpu-usage-while-g-sync-enabled/

Maybe Volta will change all this, but don't hold your breath.

About the only use I see for SLI is in synthetic calculations, folding and GPU rendering...otherwise save yourself the $$, buy a better processor, better cooling or invest it in something worthy.


I get performance boosts in every game i play except for no man's sky which doesnt have proper support. I never understood the argument against SLI when pushing for higher resolutions. If a game does not work well with SLI then set the profile to single card. What about this thread has turned you off from SLI? All Ive seen has been some extra steps to get superposition to work.
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post #7103 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Are you planning on leaving the CLU on after going through the "experimental" phase we all like to do when we first get new cards? Or removing the mod in a week or so?

And aye I can't wait to see what she's capable of; hope to god I don't get a lemon, lol.

I'm leaving it on. You can still control how much power you want to go to the card via the power slider. It just affects it like so

75% = 300 Watts
100% = 400 Watts

I rarely hit 100% anyways, it mostly floats around 85-92%

92% = 368 Watts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

Plug in "your favorite card + SLI microstutter" into google and try to say that again?

I used to run nothing but SLI and then I did the unthinkable and tried a single card. Lower ultimate FPS yes but the fluidity is noticeable. The lack of micro stutter and latency on a single card is alone worth it. Most are better off to beef up a single card over getting SLI.

I don't even game with max settings anyway as I need ˜100fps so game at 1440p. For competitive online play I turn off a lot of FPS killers like motion blur and if that's not enough you can always turn down some settings. That's much more enjoyable than having no escape from microstutter. Once you notice it, there is no escape.

The power draw associated with it and the feeling of having a $700 paperweight in poorly optimized titles only adds to the grief. Not something I want to experience again.

I haven't even begun to talk about the lack of proper G-sync support in SLI. Where the cards are not 100% utilized and a single card actually performs better.

This thread has enough pain and frustration to have convinced me to not run 1080 in SLI and just run a single Ti.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946818/geforce-1000-series/gtx-1080-sli-low-gpu-usage-while-g-sync-enabled/

Maybe Volta will change all this, but don't hold your breath.

About the only use I see for SLI is in synthetic calculations, folding and GPU rendering...otherwise save yourself the $$, buy a better processor, better cooling or invest it in something worthy.

I'm with you on that. I thought SLI 980 Ti was awesome until I got my single 1080 Ti. Can definitely notice the weird stuttering is gone when I play Witcher 3 or other games. It's just very smooth. There's no microsecond of a twitch going from one frame to another.
post #7104 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

I'm leaving it on. You can still control how much power you want to go to the card via the power slider. It just affects it like so

75% = 300 Watts
100% = 400 Watts

I rarely hit 100% anyways, it mostly floats around 85-92%

Aye; I was more worried about the Liquid Metal possibly eating away at solder points. (It's not unheard of for a resistor to fall off as a result).

I watched a buildzoid video where it was mentioned, not too long ago... his answer was to try Conductonaut instead (by Thermal Grizzly; their version of LM)

I got the impression he was only mentioning it as a "disclaimer".. he's never mentioned it in any of his VRM analysis vids since).

Not meaning to sound all the alarm bells; but just something to be aware of :-) Better safe than sorry :-)

Also I'm not in anyway claiming Conductonaut is any less likely to be a culrprit. (Just the messenger on this one, i'm afraid).
Edited by nrpeyton - 4/25/17 at 3:25pm
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post #7105 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxrun View Post

I get performance boosts in every game i play except for no man's sky which doesnt have proper support. I never understood the argument against SLI when pushing for higher resolutions. If a game does not work well with SLI then set the profile to single card. What about this thread has turned you off from SLI? All Ive seen has been some extra steps to get superposition to work.

Besides my post above, I decided to no go SLI now or wait on it (DX12 multi GPU please work!).

Battlefield 1 didn't support sli correctly, it had a strange glitch where it would actually cause burn in text onto your monitor.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Battlefield+1+sli+flickering

Doom didn't even support SLI since it was Vulkan

DX12 doesn't support SLI

I got tired of having to mess with profile settings

And finally there was slight microstuttering, wasn't too noticeable since I adapted to it, but after getting a 1080 Ti and OC to be equal or greater than a 980 Ti SLI setup, I can see that the fluidity and smoothness of a single card has made a major difference to me.

Who knows, 2 years from now if I still have my 1080 Ti and they sell for cheap used, I'll grab a used one for $300 if DX12 Multi GPU takes off.
post #7106 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Aye; I was more worried about the Liquid Metal possibly eating away at solder points. (It's not unheard of for a resistor to fall off as a result).

I watched a buildzoid video where it was mentioned, not too long ago... his answer was to try Conductonaut instead (by Thermal Grizzly; their version of LM)

Not meaning to sound all the alarm bells; but just something to be aware of :-) Better safe than sorry :-)

No issues, the OP has been updated with my shunt mod. I'll post a picture here, but I applied liquid electrical tape on the solder joint. So CLU cannot touch the solder joint. It can only touch the resistor itself, the top metal part.



The photo below, I took a small tiny paint brush and pained 2 to 3 coats around the solder joint, covering the solder from any CLU run off that could potentially happen.



The dude that had his resistor fall off never explained how it happened to him. I blame his possible neglifience or the way his GPU was setup. Maybe he put too much and it ran off to the side, maybe he has a rig that mounts things upside down.

But yeah, I protected and coated the soldier joint.
Edited by SlimJ87D - 4/25/17 at 3:27pm
post #7107 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

No issues, the OP has been updated with my shunt mod. I'll post a picture here, but I applied liquid electrical tape on the solder joint. So CLU cannot touch the solder joint. It can only touch the resistor itself, the top metal part.



very nice, impressive.. I've saved those images to my OC'ing folder on my desktop.

nice work & good thinking ;-)

Heatsink mods on the opening post look good too (especially the thermal pad between core and back-plate).



My last Liquid Electrical Tape mission on my 1080 Classified looked like this lol:

Was a painstaking nightmare to remove.

Next time I'm hoping not to make such a mess lol (so 2nd time lucky) ha.

Worked a treat though, even with a full sheet of ice between the EK block & 1080 PCB, still never even so much as went into safe mode :-)
Edited by nrpeyton - 4/25/17 at 3:55pm
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post #7108 of 10721
I have a Msi 1080ti gaming X overclocked core+110 memory +400

I7 6700k overclocked to 4.5

I can get a score just over 10k on superposition but at those same levels I crash on timespy and firestrike at +90 core I get no crashes

Should I lower my core to 90 or just leave it at the levels I have now?

Didn't touch my voltage.

Thanks
post #7109 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by DabboPiff View Post

I have a Msi 1080ti gaming X overclocked core+110 memory +400

I7 6700k overclocked to 4.5

I can get a score just over 10k on superposition but at those same levels I crash on timespy and firestrike at +90 core I get no crashes

Should I lower my core to 90 or just leave it at the levels I have now?

Didn't touch my voltage.

Thanks

Leave it at 90. You want max stable oc.
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post #7110 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

No issues, the OP has been updated with my shunt mod. I'll post a picture here, but I applied liquid electrical tape on the solder joint. So CLU cannot touch the solder joint. It can only touch the resistor itself, the top metal part.



The photo below, I took a small tiny paint brush and pained 2 to 3 coats around the solder joint, covering the solder from any CLU run off that could potentially happen.



The dude that had his resistor fall off never explained how it happened to him. I blame his possible neglifience or the way his GPU was setup. Maybe he put too much and it ran off to the side, maybe he has a rig that mounts things upside down.

But yeah, I protected and coated the soldier joint.

Thats beautiful, similar to how I have mine done.

And to all the "resistor might fall off folks". Guess what you do if that happens? Go grab a soldering iron. Don't be scurrd. If afraid of the soldering iron, don't want to risk RMA issues or unwilling to part with some $$, well...don't do it.
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