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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 777

post #7761 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ihao View Post

You must have pretty good airflow in that box of yours mate wink.gif I'm running the fan on the 1080 ti at close to max, and heck of a lot of fans, and it reaches around 60 at only 2012 "stable non-downclocking". Wish I had some better ventilation where my cab is though.

Also, phu! System up and running again, pretty much the way it used to be. Probably lost some saves here and there, but that is how life is. Do you guys use Afterburner 4.3.0? Just made a full image backup now, and am ready to try again.
yeah, it's breezy in there. 3 intake, 1 exhaust plus the cpu cooler's exhaust. fans are Thermaltake Ring and i have 2 F-12 Noctuas, and another f-12 on the rad. Plus, kryo re-paste and a couple heatsinks on the backplate and on the backside gpu copper plate.
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post #7762 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

rolleyes.gif But it seems everyone's card can easily do 2100+ here
because we are all lunatics! Most needed cooling mods and shunt mods and extra heatsinks and thermal pads and full blocks to do it. ON AIR, if you are over 2000Mhz you are gold, so holding above 2050 on air means it IS a 2100 card, you just haven't done your job to release it yet tongue.gif
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post #7763 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

yeah, it's breezy in there. 3 intake, 1 exhaust plus the cpu cooler's exhaust. fans are Thermaltake Ring and i have 2 F-12 Noctuas, and another f-12 on the rad. Plus, kryo re-paste and a couple heatsinks on the backplate and on the backside gpu copper plate.

I got 5 Noctuas. 2 pulling in, 2 on top exhuastoing, running a bit slower and one exhaust at the back. Also a Corsair on the bottom to pull up some "as cold as possible" air from the floor. Last one is probably not pulling much as I havent cleaned the filter in a looong time now though. biggrin.gif It should be a good setup for pushing quite a bit of air, but like I said, probably not enough ventilation. I COULD try to repaste with the kryo, but those fan headers... man, they suck.
    
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post #7764 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ihao View Post

I got 5 Noctuas. 2 pulling in, 2 on top exhuastoing, running a bit slower and one exhaust at the back. Also a Corsair on the bottom to pull up some "as cold as possible" air from the floor. Last one is probably not pulling much as I havent cleaned the filter in a looong time now though. biggrin.gif It should be a good setup for pushing quite a bit of air, but like I said, probably not enough ventilation. I COULD try to repaste with the kryo, but those fan headers... man, they suck.
i did it without removing the fan headers. Actually, i removed one. one came off easy. ANd yes, they are stupid hard to get off. but either way, though, you just need another person , even a child, to hold the cooler while you quickly clean and repaste.

Your fans and mine are almost identical, with a repaste you'll be in the 50s. Im usually in the 50s in most games. like 57c, 58c.
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post #7765 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

because we are all lunatics! Most needed cooling mods and shunt mods and extra heatsinks and thermal pads and full blocks to do it. ON AIR, if you are over 2000Mhz you are gold, so holding above 2050 on air means it IS a 2100 card, you just haven't done your job to release it yet tongue.gif

Even with the shunt mod, water blocks, and the best BIOS I could find, I can benchmark @2.1GHz fine. But it is just not stable enough for 247 use mad.gif
post #7766 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

So here is the power limit for ya. If I could remove it, I know my card could go higher. As you can see, my highest score is at a lower clock, voltage and with room for mem OC, as the clocks and voltages climb, my card, despite being able to sustain the clocks, is being power limited despite the shunt mod. Somebody please please please....find a way around this.. I must have more voltage.

If anybody wants to verify the above, you can test this simply.

Set a mild mem overclock. Say +450 and raise you core clock and voltage just to the point you begin to see pwr throttling in something like Heaven loop. Now without allowing the card to grab higher voltage bins than your control loop, remove the memory OC and watch the pwr limit subside or disappear. For some underclocking the mem may allow for a favorable tradeoff between allowing for more stability at a higher clock staying off the pwr but the amount of mem under clock needed to grab an extra bin is usually not worth it. For those between bins though, it's a worthy thing to test.

2100 @ 1.063v +550 mem
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12446981



2151 @ 1.093v +550 mem
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12477286



2163 @ 1.093v +400 mem

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12490144


2163 @ 1.093v +0 mem

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12489719

What's more relevant is game benchmarks, actual Gameplay and what you would experience.

GTAV, RISE OF THE TOMB RAIDER,Hitman, division, ghost recon all have in game benchmarks.

This "tiny" power limits will probably just hit you in TimeSpy and firestrike.

Do you notice the same thing happening in heaven and superposition?
post #7767 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Even with the shunt mod, water blocks, and the best BIOS I could find, I can benchmark @2.1GHz fine. But it is just not stable enough for 247 use mad.gif
well, true, but i think there might only really be 3 or 4 of those in here. Mine's not. it's a 2063+ all day, tho, with 2100 is some games. But mine is on air, no shunt. Just kryonaut and a good tunin.
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post #7768 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Even with the shunt mod, water blocks, and the best BIOS I could find, I can benchmark @2.1GHz fine. But it is just not stable enough for 247 use mad.gif

Bear in mind Nvidia designed these cards with a base clock of 1481 Mhz.

And most peoples boosts max out at 1850-1900 Mhz.

People who don't overclock (like us) are gaming at between 1600 - 1750 avg. on default fan profiles.

The fact you can bench at 2100 semi-stable is fantastic.

Also; you've got that challenge to hold 2100... If you were hitting 2100 without any effort; wouldn't that be a tad boring? (no one is hitting 2.2).

Personally; I'll probably use 1.0v @ an overclock of 1999MHZ for 24/7 gaming. (I'll enjoy the fact I'm running cool + faster drawing a lot less power + a lot less noise).

Don't be so hard on yourself :-)
Edited by nrpeyton - 4/29/17 at 5:01pm
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post #7769 of 10498
New single slot WB just arrived. The cover has NO led in it.. and I cannot find and LED strip that fits..
I added a T-sensor just underneath the mosfet area. Mosfets never go above 75C even under 450w load for 1-2hrs thumb.gif




Single slot backplate looks great!


Aquaero is a must have!



Done! with lots of blood!
post #7770 of 10498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

well, true, but i think there might only really be 3 or 4 of those in here. Mine's not. it's a 2063+ all day, tho, with 2100 is some games. But mine is on air, no shunt. Just kryonaut and a good tunin.

Depends on game. Mine is 2063 in everything but W3 and ME:A biggrin.gif

I gave up on curve. Just went back to good old sliders. Playing now 2012 +50 core in Witcher 3 with Auto Fan at 1.062V with max temp of 68C after Kryonaut repasting. Extra 50mhz and 1fps is not worth all the hassle....



BTW. guys if you have Asus STRIX there is no need for repasting it with Kryonaut, you will get like 2-3C at max. The paste job on Asus is god darn good, nice thin layer of paste, although it wasn't as thick paste as Grizzly is.


I have ordered another STRIX just to compare them.
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