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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 787

post #7861 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckbad View Post

Thanks whoever it was that suggested Reddit for selling. Not sure it's the best place to sell, though. People are uncool with $760 for a Zotac 1080 Ti Amp Extreme that clocks at 2037.5 stock and easily goes over 2100. They think it's overpriced.

I'll just keep answering Unanswered threads here until people start giving rep then will sell it here.

That was me. I gave you a pity rep lol.
post #7862 of 10566
After a couple days testing it seems my gaming overclock that is stable is 2037/5900. ill take it!
post #7863 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

No, Palit bios gives you 325-330 watts according to this user's testing. But a PSU reading would be better.

https://youtu.be/WGt8EB_z19M

Only got 60 seconds in due to temps going out of control (see my previous post)

but here:

Click play at the same time guys, and you can watch them side-by-side.

STOCK BIOS (300w limit)




PALIT BIOS (350w limit)




1) Testing carried out with Furmark.

2) No other system settings changed. Just the GPU, bios.

3) I did the power pl command using the batch file from the opening thread after flashing. Power was set to 348w. The command changed it to 350w. I didn't touch MSI Afterburner again before beginning test.

I don't think the PALIT bios is reporting power correctly. As power seemed to max out at 330w in HWINFO64 (should be 350w) However it's only about 20w off. (but you still lose that 20w). Shame it's not off "the other way around". You can see by comparing the two videos; the PALIT BIOS does only average about an extra 30w (in other words, this is confirmed in the videos above).

I also noticed GPU boost 3.0 doesn't seem as "aggressive" using PALIT bios. (But that might just be me) lol.

Can't do any official testing with 'scores' until I get a water-block, as temps go out of control and cause temp throttling before the bench finishes due to reduced fan RPM on PALIT BIOS vs FE BIOS (you lose 2000 RPM).
Edited by nrpeyton - 4/30/17 at 6:31pm
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post #7864 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by viz0id View Post

Everyone have been talking so much about how demanding Witcher 3 was. So i played it for an hour and took this screenshot.



I don't think i'll be touching the card anymore. If it can run 2088 from the start and only downclock to 2075 I'm beyond happy. I got a Strix OC on stock air cooling.

This is curve or just good old sliders?

And thanks for that. You convinced me to return my card. Yours can do 2075 in Witcher 3 at 1.032V.... Mine can't do even 2038 at 1.063V in W3. Already ordered another STRIX, ready to pick up. Gonna return this one day after tomorrow.

I have to say that one thing I hate about PC hardware is sillicon lottery, be it GPU or CPU.... everything should be the same. Well, that will be my 4th 1080Ti rolleyes.gif

Hope next one will finally be decent overclocker.

EDIT: and BTW hour in W3 is not enough. I thought I had stable 2050 in W3, crashed after 2,5h of gaming. Play for like 5-6 hours then I can say this is stable. Not trying to say it won't be, just giving you an advice. One hour in one game is not proof of stable clocks. You need couple of hours at least to say that.
Edited by Benny89 - 4/30/17 at 6:00pm
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post #7865 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

This is curve or just good old sliders?

And thanks for that. You convinced me to return my card. Yours can do 2075 in Witcher 3 at 1.032V.... Mine can't do even 2038 at 1.063V in W3. Already ordered another STRIX, ready to pick up. Gonna return this one day after tomorrow.

I have to say that one thing I hate about PC hardware is sillicon lottery, be it GPU or CPU.... everything should be the same. Well, that will be my 4th 1080Ti rolleyes.gif

Hope next one will finally be decent overclocker.

How did you return 3 cards? What did you say?
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post #7866 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

This is curve or just good old sliders?

And thanks for that. You convinced me to return my card. Yours can do 2075 in Witcher 3 at 1.032V.... Mine can't do even 2038 at 1.063V in W3. Already ordered another STRIX, ready to pick up. Gonna return this one day after tomorrow.

I have to say that one thing I hate about PC hardware is sillicon lottery, be it GPU or CPU.... everything should be the same. Well, that will be my 4th 1080Ti rolleyes.gif

Hope next one will finally be decent overclocker.

EDIT: and BTW hour in W3 is not enough. I thought I had stable 2050 in W3, crashed after 2,5h of gaming. Play for like 5-6 hours then I can say this is stable. Not trying to say it won't be, just giving you an advice. One hour in one game is not proof of stable clocks. You need couple of hours at least to say that.

You know theres barely any difference between 2038 and 2075 right? Your just wasting cards at this point.....
post #7867 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

How did you return 3 cards? What did you say?

Lol, I am in EU. I can return anything I ordered online withing 14 days without any reason. I just go to store, say I return it and unless I physically destroyed a hardware they have to accept it and return money within 14 days. There is no way to avoid that for a store. No restocking fees, nothing. This is the law here.

So I will return till I have decent overclocker STRIX. I am sick person, but this hobby is sick by definition biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addsome View Post

You know theres barely any difference between 2038 and 2075 right? Your just wasting cards at this point.....

I have no excuses. This is overclockers forum. We are obsessed here about every mhz and every frame.

Card is not going to waste. Somebody will buy for lower price from store fully 100% working card. Good for him.
Edited by Benny89 - 4/30/17 at 6:05pm
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post #7868 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

Lol, I am in EU. I can return anything I ordered online withing 14 days without any reason. I just go to store, say I return it and unless I physically destroyed a hardware they have to accept it and return money within 14 days. There is no way to avoid that for a store. No restocking fees, nothing. This is the law here.

So I will return till I have decent overclocker STRIX. I am sick person, but this hobby is sick by definition biggrin.gif

I'm in the U.K lol. (Europe).

But whats to stop a shop "catching on" and deciding to screw with you in revenge? They could say the card was returned damaged etc? (even when it wasn't).

Maybe not right away, but after a few returns maybe it would eventually flag up?

I say it's a slippery slope (a risky game you're playing) lol.

Just be careful :-)

Saying that; don't get me wrong.. if I got a really bad card. I can't say I wouldn't consider doing the same. :-)

Are you sure about the restock fee? (I thought the law changed recently to allow shops to cover costs of restocking). I.E. card would have to be sent back to manufacturer, tested. Cleaned. Repackaged in brand new packaging. e.t.c. e.t.c. before being sent on its way to a new customer.
OR some shops just sell it as "B grade" and take a 10% loss. (I know 'Scan Computers international LTD'. do this).
Edited by nrpeyton - 4/30/17 at 6:10pm
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post #7869 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addsome View Post

You know theres barely any difference between 2038 and 2075 right? Your just wasting cards at this point.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

I'm in the U.K lol. (Europe).

But whats to stop a shop "catching on" and deciding to screw with you in revenge? They could say the card was returned damaged etc?

I say it's a slippery slope lol.

Just be careful :-)

They can't do anything. I have done it many times. Law is clear: any item ordered online can be returned (apart from some expceptions, like chemicals, drugs etc.) withing 14 days from purchase date without a reason. There is no exceptions apart when I used an item beyond its purpouse, like I was trying to fry egs on backplate tongue.gif.

I can just return it and thats all. It's pretty common here really. Nothing strange in that.

And they can't say that card is destroyd since they would have to proof it. When you return item, store has a chance to write down that something is broken with what you have returned. If they don't - that means they accept return.

Whats more- if hardware is not working. That doesn't matter. It had to be "destroyed", like had visual evidance of being broken by you. If lets say GPU just doesn't work- doesn't matter.
Edited by Benny89 - 4/30/17 at 6:12pm
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post #7870 of 10566
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Only got 60 seconds in due to temps going out of control (see my previous post)

but here:

Click play at the same time guys, and you can watch them side-by-side.

STOCK BIOS (300w limit)




PALIT BIOS (350w limit)




Testing carried out with Furmark.

No other system settings changed. Just the GPU, bios.

I don't think the PALIT bios is reporting power correctly. As power seemed to max out at 330w in HWINFO64 (should be 350w) However it's only about 20w off. (but you still lose that 20w). Shame it's not off "the other way around". You can see by comparing the two videos; the PALIT BIOS does only average about an extra 30w (in other words, this is confirmed in the videos above).

I also noticed GPU boost 3.0 doesn't seem as "aggressive" using PALIT bios. (But that might just be me) lol.

Can't do any official testing with 'scores' until I get a water-block, as temps go out of control and cause temp throttling before the bench finishes due to reduced fan RPM on PALIT BIOS vs FE BIOS (you lose 2000 RPM).

Thank you for your time and research. +Rep.
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