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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 795

post #7941 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Another block consideration for you may be the Aquacomputer Kryographics block, with their active cooled backplate.
This is the bit tech review of the TXP block that I ordered, which also fits the 1080Ti:
https://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2016/09/23/titan-x-pascal-water-cooling-review/1

I ordered it directly from Aquacomputer in Germany, along with the active-cooled backplate:
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3458&XTCsid=bpvgo27iuaini7b5km10vmqpi
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3463&XTCsid=bpvgo27iuaini7b5km10vmqpi
They tend to be in short supply at times. Aquatuning and Performance PC also sell them, but are often oos.

I found a recent review, with the active cooled backplate, from VSG at Thermalbench:
http://thermalbench.com/2017/04/26/aqua-computer-kryographics-pascal-1080/

Note that this review is for the 1080 version, but should be very similar to the TitanXP/1080Ti block.

The gpu temps were slightly lower than the EK block, but of interest was the significant reduction in vrm temps, from using the active backplate.: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I've used several EK gpu blocks in the past. I had an Aquacomputer block on one of my 780Ti's, and was impressed with its thick copper construction. The backplate was also much thicker than EK's backplate, but I didn't have the optional active cooling attachment on that block.

The test results from the Thermalbench review look very good, as keeping the vrm temps low is very important as well.

I had purchased an EK TitanXP block (which fits the 1080Ti as well) before buying the AC block, but have decided to use the Aquacomputer Kryographics block instead.

Edit:
OCUK may have them as well, I see the backplate listed there, but not sure if they have the blocks yet.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/water-blocks?ckSuppliers=44&sSort=5&n=384&ckTab=0

excellent info, I'm definitely going to read up more about this block.

the idea of an actively cooled backplate is highly intriguing.

I'm one of the guys who uses a fan blowing onto the back of the socket of my mobo for another 10c off my CPU temp, so actively cooling a backplate with water to me is actually a very natural and excellent idea :-)

rep+ for info ;-)
Thanks!

Two members who have installed the AC block on their cards:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7190#post_26048117
Would be nice to see some further results from them.

Not to knock the EK block or any of the others, but I want to give the active cooling thing a go.

I saw a later post where you are considering doing a temporary AIO on yours, and I can't blame you!
That would at least get some decent cooling for your card while you arrange to get a block.
The AIO coolers certainly work decently from what I've seen.

I'm in the same boat, can't do much on air with the FE cooler, until I get the loop re-done, and the block on the card.
I will certainly post some less than scientific results from the AC block, once I get it up and running.
Edited by DerComissar - 5/1/17 at 2:06pm
    
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post #7942 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

wow, so there is truth in it after all.

I wonder how long it would of lasted without any o/c at stock voltage.... (for comparison)




excellent info, I'm definitely going to read up more about this block.

the idea of an actively cooled backplate is highly intriguing.

I'm one of the guys who uses a fan blowing onto the back of the socket of my mobo for another 10c off my CPU temp, so actively cooling a backplate with water to me is actually a very natural and excellent idea :-)

rep+ for info ;-)




?

http://www.masterbond.com/properties/thermally-conductive-epoxy-adhesives

I was going to look at gluing a heatsink on the back of my Mobo socket for the same purpose but in such a way that I could increase the mounting pressure
I was also going to fill the voids inside the socket effectively making a solid block of epoxy so no CPU PCB flex as the thermal conductivity I think I had to achieve 20kg/cm² mounting pressure would be equivalent to a fused bond

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alwrath View Post

My question to you, what was your voltage at? Was it max? What was the slider at and volts please.

That is testing my brain I think I could go to a museum and see a GTX 580 there but I believe it was in the 1.4v range
the 580s were notorious for faulting and HOT partly why NVidia have locked down their Bios I miss those days

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Scone View Post

Currently using the latest version of GPU Tweak II with no issues, as well as Aura Graphics.


how is the Aura® software I heard it was a little fiddly and often needed resetting.
I personally never installed the software I like to keep my OS in the minimum as possible and I quite liked the default light reminds me of a heart beating and it is the heart of my PC
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post #7943 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Thanks!

Two members who have installed the AC block on their cards:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7190#post_26048036
Would be nice to see some further results from them.

Not to knock the EK block or any of the others, but I want to give the active cooling thing a go.

I saw a later post where you are considering doing a temporary AIO on yours, and I can't blame you!
That would at least get some decent cooling for your card while you arrange to get a block.
The AIO coolers certainly work decently from what I've seen.

I'm in same boat, can't do much on air with FE cooler, until I get the loop re-done, and the block on the card.
I will certainly post some less than scientific results from the AC block, once I get it up and running.

Yeah, would love to see your temps and (if possible) a 'with' and 'without' the actively cooled backplate for core, memory (important) and even VRM would be fantastic.

Just read a post claiming EK block maxing out at 36c, load. (Which isn't impossible but would require very low ambient temps) and absolutely IMMACULATE thermal-paste job + balance.).

12c differential between coolant and core temp should be possible with an EK block (done it on Classy) only at sub-ambient temps did I believe it possible.
(The colder the coolant the better it conducts heat). And I was also contributing that due to larger Classy PCB = less heat spillage from VRM etc onto core & memory).


But hey; maybe it's easier than all that?

And; that brings me to your block.... surely having water on the back of that GPU core too could/should knock at least few more degrees off? (I'll be eagerly to see your results) :-)

A 10c differential between coolant temp and CPU load temp would be fantastic.
And reason enough to buy the block. (test with 250 watt draw would be fair as it is the cards official TDP).

I get paid on Thursday, when I want to order my block. Hopefully for delivery by Saturday so I have coming weekend.

I admit I'll struggle not to go EK when I'm at the checkout.

But hey; can't stick to one manufacturer all my life -- and I've always dreamed of "back of socket water" -- so if I'm doing it GPU.. it's now or never!! thumb.gif
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/1/17 at 2:32pm
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post #7944 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Two members who have installed the AC block on their cards:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7190#post_26048117
Would be nice to see some further results from them.

Hey hey, my build is still a wip. I can't even load Winders yet, let alone testing tongue.gif

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post #7945 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

http://www.masterbond.com/properties/thermally-conductive-epoxy-adhesives

I was going to look at gluing a heatsink on the back of my Mobo socket for the same purpose but in such a way that I could increase the mounting pressure
I was also going to fill the voids inside the socket effectively making a solid block of epoxy so no CPU PCB flex as the thermal conductivity I think I had to achieve 20kg/cm² mounting pressure would be equivalent to a fused bond

Yeah, I thought about that too.. this was my individual take on it:



I even thought about getting two, one for the GPU ;-)
Then they do all shapes/sizes so GPU memory was also an option too (back of PCB)

I liked to think of it as "attacking from all sides"! lol Like literally invading the component with coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Scone View Post

Currently using the latest version of GPU Tweak II with no issues, as well as Aura Graphics.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
aww I remember from my GTX 980 days using GPU Tweak 2 (on my 980 strix). I liked how tweak II showed the true memory bandwidth (like 11,120 e.t.c) even if it did confuse Mhz with Gbps; it was still nice to see ;-)

Nowadays I have to work it out.
Double GPU-Z figure, then, multiply it by 4.
argh
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/1/17 at 2:53pm
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post #7946 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by feznz View Post

I could tell you back in the day of GTX 580s I derminined that 1000Mhz was my max stable overclock with software based voltage I had had these cards for about a year and probably used for 8 hours a week gaming and idling on the web for 12hours a week the rest of the time the PC was off. (the days before boosting clocks)
Hearing about lots about failing card ect I really had to see for myself how long would these cards last 24/7 folding ??? while keeping the cards under 60°C with max stable OC of 1000Mhz which never crashed during folding.

Answer;
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
the first card 3 weeks, the second card about another 2 weeks of normal use
WOW!! That's freaking crazy.
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post #7947 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

Nice mate! Your card is platinium.... Compare to this mine is poop.

Well, gonna grab new one tomorrow and return old one. We will see if I will also be lucky smile.gif

Question: how were you finding your max clocks? You were just draging each bin higher and higher with Heaven running and see when it crashes?


The card has yet to crash on me. The only thing ive seen my card be bad on is memory. Cause if i go higer than 250 i perfcap and lose performance.

But Yeah since im on air, i just tried lower and lower bins on 2100 to try and get under the tdp limit. So i just found the lowest bin it would go to 2100 on and did flat curve after that. And reduced one clock step per bin below that.

I dont think ive done anything special. Im just lucky i guess.

Oh and i used supo 4k to check highest clock. And 2100 perfcapped there so i didnt bother going higher
Edited by viz0id - 5/1/17 at 3:08pm
post #7948 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post


So with EK Titan / 1080 TI block; you're maxing out under 40 at full load?

Nice.

You just using regular water/radiators?

Yeah. My Ti has a 480 and 280 rad all to itself. Yes. Max load temps I have seen are 36 c after playing The Division at 99% GPU usage for hours. My set up was originally designed for 2 780 lightning cards highly overclocked. Once summer gets in full swing, temps might rise a bit. My card is definitely screaming for more power. 😈
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post #7949 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop07764 View Post

Yeah. My Ti has a 480 and 280 rad all to itself. Yes. Max load temps I have seen are 36 c after playing The Division at 99% GPU usage for hours. My set up was originally designed for 2 780 lightning cards highly overclocked. Once summer gets in full swing, temps might rise a bit. My card is definitely screaming for more power. 😈

Aye well your sitting on a 1300 PSU I see too, lol

You not shut modded?

What's your max stable at 36c?. (Best temp I've seen on this thread yet).

Lol my card idles higher.
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post #7950 of 10838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop07764 View Post

I've been impressed with my EK block. Mine has maxed at 36c so far. If it cools the other components (vrm, mem, etc) anything like my old 780 lightning, those are probably around 30 c. My old lightning could monitor mem, vrm, and PCB temps. With my EK block, the memory sat no more than low 30s. Same temps or lower for vrm. That was with me overclocking and overvolting. Vrms never got out of the 30s even when pushing 1.4 volts on the core. My computer is even in the hottest room in my house by far.

Yeah the EK block is working very well, mines waterchilled at set point of 20c so it ranges up to 21c before the chiller kicks in again, yet the highest I have seen the GPU is 26c so that's only a 5-6c delta. The chiller is very good at controlling temps, but previous cards have usually been around the 28-30c mark so this seems to be doing a lot better.
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