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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 798

post #7971 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

The temperature where I am is actually quite nice today. The high for the day was 87F while the low is expected to be 57F tonight.

There is no need for insulation as my case is the insulator.

I've built a little mini Antarctica. It's a sealed air tight, or near airtight case and the air temps inside the case are at or near the temperature of the coolant being pumped through the loop. So there is no possibility for condensation.

I simply dial up the liquid temp I desire and the temp in the case drops to match that of the liquid.





Awesome, how do you go for coolant at -17c?
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post #7972 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 View Post

Awesome, how do you go for coolant at -17c?

Just really really clean ethylene glycol and water at a ratio under which the viscosity of the liquid and the desired temperature are optimal for both flow and heat transfer.


Edited by KraxKill - 5/1/17 at 9:11pm
post #7973 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Thanks!

Two members who have installed the AC block on their cards:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7190#post_26048036
Would be nice to see some further results from them.

Not to knock the EK block or any of the others, but I want to give the active cooling thing a go.

I saw a later post where you are considering doing a temporary AIO on yours, and I can't blame you!
That would at least get some decent cooling for your card while you arrange to get a block.
The AIO coolers certainly work decently from what I've seen.

I'm in same boat, can't do much on air with FE cooler, until I get the loop re-done, and the block on the card.
I will certainly post some less than scientific results from the AC block, once I get it up and running.

Yeah, would love to see your temps and (if possible) a 'with' and 'without' the actively cooled backplate for core, memory (important) and even VRM would be fantastic.

Just read a post claiming EK block maxing out at 36c, load. (Which isn't impossible but would require very low ambient temps) and absolutely IMMACULATE thermal-paste job + balance.).

12c differential between coolant and core temp should be possible with an EK block (done it on Classy) only at sub-ambient temps did I believe it possible.
(The colder the coolant the better it conducts heat). And I was also contributing that due to larger Classy PCB = less heat spillage from VRM etc onto core & memory).


But hey; maybe it's easier than all that?

And; that brings me to your block.... surely having water on the back of that GPU core too could/should knock at least few more degrees off? (I'll be eagerly to see your results) :-)

A 10c differential between coolant temp and CPU load temp would be fantastic.
And reason enough to buy the block. (test with 250 watt draw would be fair as it is the cards official TDP).

I get paid on Thursday, when I want to order my block. Hopefully for delivery by Saturday so I have coming weekend.

I admit I'll struggle not to go EK when I'm at the checkout.

But hey; can't stick to one manufacturer all my life -- and I've always dreamed of "back of socket water" -- so if I'm doing it GPU.. it's now or never!! thumb.gif
Yeah, I would like to do a comparison with and without the active cooling backplate "module" lol.

But it will be a while before I get the loop rebuilt and the system finished.

Tom's tested the AC block on a 1080Ti, and had a review of the temps. without using the active backplate, compared to the stock FE cooler:


Review:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-water-cooling,4975.html

Note that the AC block uses no thermal pads on the memory chips, they have direct contact to the block, using thermal paste instead.

Beyond that, if you go to chilled water, that would really lead to fantastic temps., lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chibi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Two members who have installed the AC block on their cards:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/7190#post_26048117
Would be nice to see some further results from them.

Hey hey, my build is still a wip. I can't even load Winders yet, let alone testing tongue.gif

And a lovely WIP!thumb.gif

Looking forward to seeing how you do when you can load Winders, lol.
Edited by DerComissar - 5/1/17 at 7:31pm
    
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post #7974 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 View Post

Its a 1/2hp Hailea, but its the one they do for some other company who's name eludes me, has a scroll compressor which is supposed to be quieter, than the HC500a.

I have the exact same model.

Hailea HC500a,

790w cooling capacity (1/2 HP).

You had it sub-zero?






Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Yeah, I would like to do a comparison with and without the active cooling backplate "module" lol.

But it will be a while before I get the loop rebuilt and the system finished.

Tom's tested the AC block on a 1080Ti, and had a review of the temps. without using the active backplate, compared to the stock FE cooler: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Review:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-water-cooling,4975.html

Note that the AC block uses no thermal pads on the memory chips, they have direct contact to the block, using thermal paste instead.

Beyond that, if you go to chilled water, that would really lead to fantastic temps., lol.
And a lovely WIP!thumb.gif

Looking forward to seeing how you do when you can load Winders, lol.

Nice, I like the idea of direct contact with memory chips (no pads)...

But wow I'm surprised that works... (there's a reason manufacturers don't normally do it).

The block would need to be absolutely perfectly flat and symmetrical. Even a 0.25mm bend (natural manufacturing inconsistency) on the metal block from left-side to right-side could cause contact issues. They would have to have absolutely utterly perfect measurements so all 11 memory chips and the core, all makes perfect contact (with no pads to soak up any difference)..
In theory; if they've nailed it, temps on those memory chips should indeed be better.. but I'd have to see it to believe it lol.

Maybe they have screws all around the chips to help hold the PCB against the block perfectly....

I'm definitely going to do a bit of digging and find all the reviews and info I can on this block.

And the active cooled backplate too, on-top of it.. all seems like there are things going on here that no other manufacturer is doing. ;-)


P.S.
When I swapped 0.5mm thermal pads out for 0.5mm copper shims on my 1080 Classy it didn't work as expected (due to reasons above I.E. manufacturing imperfections/inconsistency). Don't get me wrong, temps weren't bad... they were excellent on 3 chips on one side, mediocre in the middle but didn't seem right on the opposite side.. I even tried changing one side from 0.5mm to 0.6mm (eventually I was able to match or even better performance against using 1.0mm thermal pads but only maybe by 1/2 degree (which could be within margin of error).

Edited by nrpeyton - 5/1/17 at 8:20pm
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post #7975 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex132 View Post

amDolt?


Also has anyone here got a 1080 Ti FTW3? They're out of stock everywhere I look.

You had to pre-order on 03/28/2017 within the first 30 minutes on EVGA's website to have a FTW3 ship today. It will most likely be weeks before they will be available to purchase without having a pre-order from either EVGA or Newegg. With my AIO 1080 Ti that won't go past 2038mhz at 53°C, I'm going to regret giving up my pre-order on two of them. The preliminary analysis of the PCB looks promising but these are not binned chips so overclocking is still luck of the draw.
post #7976 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

I have the exact same model.

Hailea HC500a,

790w cooling capacity (1/2 HP).

You had it sub-zero?

Nah mines a Hailea Aqua Medic HL 380 CA, same 790w 1/2hp, but slight different design. Its supposed to be quieter and had slightly lower flow rate requirement. It has Horizontal reservoir as the base which maybe a bit larger. I get condensation when its at 18c lol at least in summer, too warm and humid even with AC smile.gif
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post #7977 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 View Post

Nah mines a Hailea Aqua Medic HL 380 CA, same 790w 1/2hp, but slight different design. Its supposed to be quieter and had slightly lower flow rate requirement. It has Horizontal reservoir as the base which maybe a bit larger. I get condensation when its at 18c lol at least in summer, too warm and humid even with AC smile.gif

aww, I use a Dew Point & Relative Humidity Meter. Sometimes at night dew point goes down as low as 7 or 8c. So I'm able to run the Chiller that low with no condensation. (Meter is only 20 bux off Ebay).
Other days dew point is of course about 16c but it does change day-to-day.

They are really easy to modify for sub-zero. You just need to apply a little bit liquid electrical tape to the GPU and insulate your blocks/tubing with armaflex to stop air getting in (and condensation) and you can get as low as -14c coolant temp by bypassing the thermostat. I had great fun with mine.

It's currently disconnected. As after I modified it to run regardless of temperature (as soon as it was switched on at wall) I got annoyed having to periodically power it up/down every hour or so. (with PC idling it would actually take about an hour for temp to go from 16c to about 35-40c.

I got some great O/C'ing results on my last pascal as a result. 2300++ MHz ;-)

Can't wait to see what my TI is going to do. It's still sitting beside me now. I could have it reconnected to loop in 5 mins ;-)

A quieter model of compressor would be nice; I have to say.. the noise does get on your nerves eventually lol.
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/1/17 at 8:29pm
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post #7978 of 10403
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Yeah, I would like to do a comparison with and without the active cooling backplate "module" lol.

But it will be a while before I get the loop rebuilt and the system finished.

Tom's tested the AC block on a 1080Ti, and had a review of the temps. without using the active backplate, compared to the stock FE cooler: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Review:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-water-cooling,4975.html

Note that the AC block uses no thermal pads on the memory chips, they have direct contact to the block, using thermal paste instead.

Beyond that, if you go to chilled water, that would really lead to fantastic temps., lol.
Nice, I like the idea of direct contact with memory chips (no pads)...

But wow I'm surprised that works... (there's a reason manufacturers don't normally do it).

The block would need to be absolutely perfectly flat and symmetrical. Even a 0.25mm bend (natural manufacturing inconsistency) on the metal block from left-side to right-side could cause contact issues. They would have to have absolutely utterly perfect measurements so all 11 memory chips and the core, all makes perfect contact (with no pads to soak up any difference)..
In theory; if they've nailed it, temps on those memory chips should indeed be better.. but I'd have to see it to believe it lol.

Maybe they have screws all around the chips to help hold the PCB against the block perfectly....

I'm definitely going to do a bit of digging and find all the reviews and info I can on this block.

And the active cooled backplate too, on-top of it.. all seems like there are things going on here that no other manufacturer is doing. ;-)


P.S.
When I swapped 0.5mm thermal pads out for 0.5mm copper shims on my 1080 Classy it didn't work as expected (due to reasons above I.E. manufacturing imperfections/inconsistency). Don't get me wrong, temps weren't bad... they were excellent on 3 chips on one side, mediocre in the middle but didn't seem right on the opposite side.. I even tried changing one side from 0.5mm to 0.6mm (eventually I was able to match or even better performance against using 1.0mm thermal pads but only maybe by 1/2 degree (which could be within margin of error).
I see what you mean with the shims, again they are basically rigid, compared to thermal pads.
The precision fit that would be required just isn't there.

And the surfaces are never going to be perfectly flush.
But there must be some way that AC's block manages to work, the thermal paste would not fill any significant gaps, as do thermal pads. I've not seen any issues mentioned with their method, which they've been employing on their blocks for years.

Perhaps the fastening of the blocks has some bearing on this, as you mentioned.
Here are the .pdf files on the block and active backplate:
kryographics_TITAN_X_Pascal_english_20160818.pdf 297k .pdf file
Backplate_TITAN_X_Pascal_active_english_20160830.pdf 243k .pdf file
    
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post #7979 of 10403
No sure how you guys are getting under 50c with your EK waterblocks but im suffering trying to get my cards under 50c load.
the watertemps in my custom loop just keep going up and up and up very very very slowly i might at...

i have 2x 1080ti`s ek blocks and back plates.
run them currently @ 2025/12ghz

water creeps its way up until it reaches about 46c
with card temps @54c
and running a single card without sli creeps up to about 49c

this is with 2x alpha cool radiators very thick ones 480mm on the top and 420mm on the bottom. with 1 ek pump. d5 @ 10 on the dial.


CPU is under the same loop @4.8ghz I7 haswell 4970k


I cant for the life of me figure out how to get my temps down to around low 40s. under load, once i get around that im planning on doing the shunt mod.


anyone have any suggestions ?
EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump) i bought this thinking it might be my flow thats cauing the issues though yet to fit it.
i also have another 120 alpha cool monster radiator that i could fit
adding stuff is no issue as i have a 2000w super flower 8pack PSU in the system probably overkill lol but you can never buy cheap when buying psu`s....

gotta figure a way to lower these fluid temps.
post #7980 of 10403
I'm not water expert, but I imagine you're running that Haswell chip (is it delidded) on a vcore of 1.28 or so. It's not the coolest running CPU, and these guys might be running lower TDP/more efficient chips. Your temps don't sound bad at all.
 
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