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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 815

post #8141 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

You could try overclocking your card, and see if it remains sable with a little boost. (If it does then you know its a software issue)?

If not then it could be an unlucky silicon lottery.

If that's the case (poor lottery); I'd try the following first in this order...

Thanks for the tips. I played around with voltage and frequency but couldn't resolve the issues even with a huge underclock. I'll play around a bit more but who knows. This is what I get for cheating on EVGA... One other annoying bit is that they left a little piece of plastic screwed between the fan and the card, so it made a helicopter sound whenever the fan turned on. Took me 10sec to remove but Gigabyte couldn't be bothered, or they never even tested it.
Edited by Mrip541 - 5/3/17 at 12:25pm
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post #8142 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrip541 View Post

Thanks for the tips. I played around with voltage and frequency but couldn't resolve the issues even with a huge underclock. I'll play around a bit more but who knows. This is what I get for cheating on EVGA... One other annoying bit is that they left a little piece of plastic screwed between the fan and the card, so it made a helicopter sound whenever the fan turned on. Took my 10sec to remove but Gigabyte couldn't be bothered, or they never even tested it.

aww then maybe it's RMA time.

or you're always going to feel unfaithful, lol

i'd just double check it's not software first (i.e. try in a different machine, if possible) or with a clean install.
What about a drive you don't use often? (or even use the windows startup app to configure a "minimum only" boot)

I noticed that with the latest version of MSI Afterburner; Riva Tuner always crashes the Witcher 3 back to the desktop. Point is; often it can be some silly conflict issue between software.

Could even be a loose cable. Or a background task.
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/3/17 at 12:06pm
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post #8143 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Because I like to tinker about.

And if I take the heatsink and everything off the FE tonight, then it will go much quicker when I do the block next week.

Moreover there's less chance I'll forget where something goes (in a year or so when I sell it) if I've had it apart twice.

Also just pure curiosity.


Anyway you're using conductonaut; you not worried about corrosion or discolouration?
Here's what happened to my copper CPU block after 8 weeks:
<- right click & open new tab then enlarge for full size

It's been scrubbed like relentlessly-- it's like the LM is permanently "moulded" into the microscopic pores of the copper. (not sure if that's a good or a bad thing).

Still - i like it.. conductonaut on GPU.. hardcore :-)

It won't hurt its performance, it's like a film die of the surface.
post #8144 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

It won't hurt its performance, it's like a film die of the surface.

Aye; I agree.

Temps certainly didn't look any different, after.

What I have always wondered though; is if EK would still honour warranty. (Not that I can imagine anything ever going wrong with a block) -- it's no moving parts e.t.c. But I'm still curious.

Moreover is any discolouration to the GPU DIE possible?

My CPU IHS didn't look too badly affected. Although there did seem to be a slight "fading" of the text etched on the top of it. (8 weeks)

Due to using a Chiller now when doing anything partially-extreme; I can't use LM anyway. It's inaffective below about 8c (if i recall correctly).

Anyway it netted me about 3 degrees C I think, at the time. (compared to Kryonaut).

So all-in on Conductonaut; you're talking 6 degrees C. If you think about it:
normal paste to kryonaut --> 3c
kryonaut --> conductonaut -> 3c
=6c

Could be worthwhile as a re-paste on air using stock FE at 6c of a difference. I do have some left ;-)
hmm... got me thinking now... lol

what you guys think? 6c would certainly be worth it until I get my block. ;-)
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/3/17 at 12:29pm
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post #8145 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Because I like to tinker about.

And if I take the heatsink and everything off the FE tonight, then it will go much quicker when I do the block next week.

Moreover there's less chance I'll forget where something goes (in a year or so when I sell it) if I've had it apart twice.

Also just pure curiosity.


Anyway you're using conductonaut; you not worried about corrosion or discolouration?
Here's what happened to my copper CPU block after 8 weeks:
<- right click & open new tab then enlarge for full size

It's been scrubbed like relentlessly-- it's like the LM is permanently "moulded" into the microscopic pores of the copper. (not sure if that's a good or a bad thing).

Still - i like it.. conductonaut on GPU.. hardcore :-)

Use metal polish such as Brasso or Never Dull and the discoloration will wipe away easily. Works on the block and the CPU IHS.

It literally makes them look brand new.

Make sure you follow up with a good cleaning with alcohol to remove any residual polish.

Good luck.
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post #8146 of 10721
Can one someone let me know if this overclock for a first timer looks decent? smile.gif








I don't really understand my MSI is telling me I'm limited by Temp, Power, and Voltage??

I have a Heatkiller block on the card and I don't go over 31C on load.

GTA V seems to be doing a lot of stuttering as well to me, even though the FPS is staying around 100 to 85. doh.gif
post #8147 of 10721
Been testing out the Witcher 3 for stability. Where is the best place in the map to test my clocks? Tried it for a couple hours without crashes so far. Maxed 1440p including hair works. Haven't really seen any downclocking except for the map and inventory screens that I've noticed anyway. Been sticking pretty close to 120% power limit for the majority of the time.
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post #8148 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by done12many2 View Post

Use metal polish such as Brasso or Never Dull and the discoloration will wipe away easily. Works on the block and the CPU IHS.

It literally makes them look brand new.

Make sure you follow up with a good cleaning with alcohol to remove any residual polish.

Good luck.
+1
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post #8149 of 10721
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop07764 View Post

Been testing out the Witcher 3 for stability. Where is the best place in the map to test my clocks? Tried it for a couple hours without crashes so far. Maxed 1440p including hair works. Haven't really seen any downclocking except for the map and inventory screens that I've noticed anyway. Been sticking pretty close to 120% power limit for the majority of the time.

No shunt mod I tested Rise Of The Tomb Raider DirectX12, it's a very power hungry game, had to do 2012 at .962v to get it not to power limit. redface.gif
    
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post #8150 of 10721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

My apologies; I stand corrected :-)

"Shunt mod" it is, lol

At least you weren't talking about shirts and forgetting the r tongue.gif

I think we are all probably guilty of skim reading

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty23 View Post

I know this is not enough data to reach any solid conclusions but here are the results of the ingame benchmark from Ghost Recon Wildlands (1440p Ultra preset) in all bins from 2000-2100. Unfortunatelly, I don't have a lot of free time but this benchmark is really short so the whole thing took like 15 minutes smile.gif.
2000 --- 61.63 Avg FPS
2012 --- 61.90 (+0.44%)
2025 --- 62.14 (+0.38%)
2038 --- 62.43 (+0.47%)
2050 --- 62.56 (+0.21%)
2063 --- 62.84 (+0.45%)
2076 --- 63.11 (+0.43%)
2088 --- 63.50 (+0.62%)
2100 --- 64.51 (+1.6%) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
So, in total 2.98fps (+4.84%) for 100Hz (5%) OC in this specific game benchmark (screenshots in the spoiler).
As I said in another thread a few days ago, i don't believe that there are people that can actually tell the difference between 62 and 65 fps.
Even at higher fps that is what, 120 to 126. Again I don't think this is really noticeable or, something to worry about unless you intend to bench competitively.
As far as I'm concerned, I realised a couple of days ago that I have this card in my "gaming" PC for over a month and gamed for less than 10 hours redface.gif.
I uninstalled everything with Unigine, 3DMark, etc in its name and will only game from now on.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
2000
2012
2025
2038
2050
2063
2076
2088
2100

As can be seen in the screenshot below I just used the slider for the core OC. I put the first 3 sliders all the way to the right, left the memory clock at stock and only changed the core clock from +100 to +190 (2000-2100) so as to keep the variables to a minimum (e.g. I obviously don't need 1.062 for 2000 on the core). Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Card is an EVGA FE under water ("EK-FC Titan X Pascal - Acetal+Nickel", 3*240rad - using Vardar 2200rpm fans, D5 pump) and room temperature was ~25C.
Original BIOS, no shunt mod, CPU is a 4790k @ 4.7GHz @ 1.296v.

Sorry for any grammar mistakes but English is not my first language and I did write this very quickly - didn't check it afterwards
.

well deserved first +1 I am surprised that the performance is on scale
Yeah maybe we need a FPS test for those who say they can tell the difference between 60 and 65 FPS I think I can tell when it is a huge difference like 45FPS and 60FPS
Above 50FPS is where I like to be with games unless it is FPS online then 100+ FPS because every little advantage helps.
don't worry about the grammar it is spot on I read my posts sometimes ad realise I wrote them in a haste with poor grammar and I only speak English. thumb.gif
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