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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 825

post #8241 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

I dip my finger in rubbing alcohol, let it dry and then use my finger like an ape.

The only compound I use a tool for (nylon qtips) is for spreading liquid metal. Otherwise I finger paint it on like a chimp.

hehe, had a good laugh on this biggrin.gif Thumbs up buddy!
post #8242 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by done12many2 View Post

Agreed. The included spreader works well and I've had great success with applying nice even coats.
I did the shunt mod to my first pair of 1080 Ti cards that were vertically mounted. All I can say is be careful and it shouldn't be a problem. I was paranoid and fabricated some barriers out of the plastic from the CLU packaging to prevent any possible runoff from continuing down the PCB. I'm glad I did, because the next day if found one bead of CLU sitting on the plastic. Admittedly, I was a bit aggressive with the CLU application.

Before applying CLU, I coated the PCB surrounding the shunts with liquid tape and then I used liquid tape to glue the barriers to the PBC just below the shunts.

Hope that helps.


Why not to do the resistor mod, much safer and much more accurate. You can still use the power readouts from the GPU after the resistor power mod just with proper scaling.
post #8243 of 10686
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by done12many2 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

When I can afford some Conductonaut (been so broke) I'm going to coat the surrounding areas and sides of the shunts with nail polish, let it dry, apply the Conductonaut with a Q-Tip, saw a video how to do it properly, put water block back on, hoping to have no issues.

My card is vertical as well.

Edit: Conductonaut because I heard it's thicker than CLU and someone else who used it moved the card around and it never budged. smile.gif

I have used both. I used Conductonaut on the cards that I'm using now and CLU on the previous cards. Truthfully, they are about the same. I actually think CLU is a tad easier to spread/apply. I do like the included fine tip nozzle that comes with the Conductonaut, but you need to be careful with it. I accidentally squirted LM all over the place the first time I tried to use it.

I have a few extra tubes of CLU and wouldn't mind hooking you up.

PM'd you with an offer you can't refuse (said in best Godfather voice). wink.gif
    
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post #8244 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Why not to do the resistor mod, much safer and much more accurate. You can still use the power readouts from the GPU after the resistor power mod just with proper scaling.

Sounds like that involves some soldering? If so, I've got no skills. biggrin.gif
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post #8245 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Why not to do the resistor mod, much safer and much more accurate. You can still use the power readouts from the GPU after the resistor power mod just with proper scaling.

The resistormod messes up the readouts, this is using 3 x 10Ohm Resists -




http://imgur.com/a/UXIgx



http://imgur.com/a/2S6wk
post #8246 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodhawk View Post

The resistormod messes up the readouts, this is using 3 x 10Ohm Resists -




http://imgur.com/a/UXIgx



http://imgur.com/a/2S6wk

So does shunt mod. With the resistors mod you can actually re-calibrate your power readouts, for example, 3 x 10Ohm resistor mod reduces power readings by 5 times. Simply multiplying the power readouts by 5 you will get your real power. thumb.gif You can not do the same with liquidmetal shunt mod.


Quote:
Originally Posted by done12many2 View Post

Sounds like that involves some soldering? If so, I've got no skills. biggrin.gif

No soldering required, just conductive gel/paint/glue will do .
post #8247 of 10686
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodhawk View Post

The resistormod messes up the readouts, this is using 3 x 10Ohm Resists -




http://imgur.com/a/UXIgx



http://imgur.com/a/2S6wk

So does shunt mod. With the resistors mod you can actually re-calibrate your power readouts, for example, 3 x 10Ohm resistor mod reduces power readings by 5 times. Simply multiplying the power readouts by 5 you will get your real power. thumb.gif You can not do the same with liquidmetal shunt mod.


Quote:
Originally Posted by done12many2 View Post

Sounds like that involves some soldering? If so, I've got no skills. biggrin.gif

No soldering required, just conductive gel/paint/glue will do .

Conductive paint/gel etc. won't work, doesn't increase conductivity enough, has to be liquid metal or the resisters like someone said. redface.gif
    
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post #8248 of 10686
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Conductive paint/gel etc. won't work, doesn't increase conductivity enough, has to be liquid metal or the resisters like someone said. redface.gif

Conductive paint won't work if you are doing a shunt mod, since shunt resistor are only 0.005Ohm in resistance. But it is completely ok if you are doing a resistor mod since the resistor you are adding will be in the range of 10Ohm to 100Ohm, totally work with conductive paint.
post #8249 of 10686
Thread Starter 
biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Conductive paint/gel etc. won't work, doesn't increase conductivity enough, has to be liquid metal or the resisters like someone said. redface.gif

Conductive paint won't work if you are doing a shunt mod, since shunt resistor are only 0.005Ohm in resistance. But it is completely ok if you are doing a resistor mod since the resistor you are adding will be in the range of 10Ohm to 100Ohm, totally work with conductive paint.

Oh sorry, never knew that. +1 smile.gif
    
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post #8250 of 10686
Question for those who have a 1080ti with a full water block, what kind of temps are you seeing? I am using an EK waterblock along with an EK 240mm rad and max temp is 41c, does that seem right to you or a little to warm?
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