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post #8261 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2cam View Post

Question for those who have a 1080ti with a full water block, what kind of temps are you seeing? I am using an EK waterblock along with an EK 240mm rad and max temp is 41c, does that seem right to you or a little to warm?

I am using an Aqua Computer waterblock with active backplate. At an ambient temperature of 22c I get 35-36c max temps on Mass Effect Andromeda. I'll take note of my PUBG temps tomorrow. I got 2x 280mm HWLabs GTS X-flows.
Edited by madmeatballs - 5/4/17 at 11:48am
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post #8262 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmeatballs View Post

I am using an Aqua Computer waterblock with active backplate. At an ambient temperature of 22c I get 35c max temps on Mass Effect Andromeda. I'll take note of my PUBG temps tomorrow. I got 2x 280mm HWLabs GTS X-flows.

Lets see some pics of your block installation + PC.

would be nice

I'm in two minds, weather to get that block also; or grab the EK one. Can't bloody decide lol.
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post #8263 of 10432
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopiklaani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KraxKill View Post

I would think you could do the same with the Liquid Metal shunt mod by simply noting your baseline TDP values and getting a correction value that way. I prefer to not do anything permanent to the card like soldering or gluing in resistors. Otherwise you may as well forget the shunt mod all together and just solder in a trim pot to control your voltage and TDP using external dip switches.

https://xdevs.com/guide/pascal_m_oc/

The problem with the liquid metal shunt is uncertainty. Basically you can end up with unbalanced power reading reduction on each of the shunts. It is pretty hard to compensation accurately.

Resistor mod is also not permanent, you can remove them anytime and clean the silver paint with rubbing alcohol.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Silver-Conductive-0-2ML-Glue-Wire-Electrically-Paste-Adhesive-Paint-PCB-Repair-/142142596935?hash=item21185be747:g:dCgAAOSwzaJX-Twi
and

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-SMD-Chip-Surface-Mount-0805-Resistor-10-10-ohm-1-8W-1-/222190717547?hash=item33bb994a6b:g:To0AAOSw0fhXjOha

would work?
    
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post #8264 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Lets see some pics of your block installation + PC.

would be nice

I'm in two minds, weather to get that block also; or grab the EK one. Can't bloody decide lol.

Here you go! biggrin.gif I'm planning on swapping out the thermal pads to fujipoly ones when I replace my tubing soon. The only disappointment from Aqua Computer was their single slot bracket. Somewhat the bracket isn't a fit on my Enthoo Pro M, the bracket seems to be hitting the next one below it. I managed to make it fit tho by force.




Edited by madmeatballs - 5/4/17 at 11:51am
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post #8265 of 10432
shunt mod. & calculating correct power (after mod)

Couldn't u just use your idle power draw to calculate the offset/equation you need to find out the true power reading after modding.

So on average idle power draw is 16w.

After power draw I just need to try calculating the output value until i get 16w at idle.

So for example if after the mod I'm reading 11w. (even though i know my true idle power draw is always 16w)

I'd try multiplying 11 by various factors until I get back to 16.

Once I get 16 I know my offset; then can enter it into hwinfo64 to customise the output.


So for example I might start like this:

1.3 x 11 = 14.3 (not quite there)

try again:

1.4x 11=15.4 (nearly)

1.46 x 11 = 16.06

then in hwinfo 64, in "cusomise values" under power, just change the "multiply field" to 1.46

??
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/4/17 at 11:44am
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post #8266 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Actually regarding shunt mod. & calculating correct power (after mod)

Couldn't u just use your idle power draw to calculate the offset/equation you need to find out the true power reading after modding.

So on average idle power draw is 16w.

After power draw I just need to try calculating the output value until i get 16w at idle.

So for example if after the mod I'm reading 11w. (even though i know my true idle power draw is always 16w)

I'd try multiplying 11 by various factors until I get back to 16.

Once I get 16 I know my offset; then can enter it into hwinfo64 to customise the output.


So for example I might start like this:

1.3 x 11 = 14.3 (not quite there)

try again:

1.4x 11=15.4 (nearly)

1.46 x 11 = 16.06

then in hwinfo 64, in "cusomise values" under power, just change the "multiply field" to 1.46

??

11 * X = 16 | :11
X = 16:11
X= 1.4545

you dont have to try, you simply do simple math tongue.gif
    
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post #8267 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2cam View Post

Question for those who have a 1080ti with a full water block, what kind of temps are you seeing? I am using an EK waterblock along with an EK 240mm rad and max temp is 41c, does that seem right to you or a little to warm?

Are you kidding? 41 is nothing. That is a very good result!

My FE clocks down the first 13MHz above 48 degree, so my goal is to keep it below 48, which my cooling does easily. but i get up to 45 degree under heavy load, and i have a 360 and a 240 rad.

which programm did you use to measure max temps? Try something heavy like FS ultra in a loop for two hours and i would be surprised if your temp would not go higher to at least 45 too.
Edited by dunbheagan - 5/4/17 at 11:49am
post #8268 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulio225 View Post

11 * X = 16 | :11
X = 16:11
X= 1.4545

you dont have to try, you simply do simple math tongue.gif

Right but you get the point lol.

My point; is would this scale up the way properly? Afer mod?

It should, right?

If shut mod gets me 30%

Then my idle power draw would read 11.2 after mod. (16 originally and also the "true" draw).

If i'm drawing 300w (reported) afer mod. I'd really be drawing 390w (390 would be reported into hwinfo64 and in-game via RivaTuner) if i entered 1.3 into the "multiply" field in hwinfo64 under customise values.
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/4/17 at 11:50am
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post #8269 of 10432
Even if u do solder it can easily be returned to stock condition after removing resistors . Little bit of flux paste and retouch the pads and the solder will melt back to how it was before .
post #8270 of 10432
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Right but you get the point lol.

My point; is would this scale up the way properly? Afer mod?

It should, right?

I think it should since the lowered resistance stays static and the readings are manipulated by a static value. So if your idle power is 30% lower the load power should be by the same factor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunbheagan View Post

Are you kidding? 41 is nothing. That is a very good result!

My FE clocks down the first 13MHz above 48 degree, so my goal is to keep it below 48, which my cooling does easily. but i get up to 45 degree under heavy load, and i have a 360 and a 240 rad.

which programm did you use to measure max temps? Try something heavy like FS ultra in a loop for two hours and i would be surprised if your temp would go higher to at least 45 too.

Im pretty sure your card is downclocking the first 13 MHz (12.5MHz in reality) when you leave 36°C to 37°C.
    
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