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NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 829

post #8281 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunbheagan View Post

Yeah, you are kind of right.

For example, when i apply +150 on the gpu and start a bench, first it clocks to 2063 and after a couple of seconds when temp is above high 30ies, it clocks to 2050. So you already have the first downclock at about 38 degree.

Why i said, i have the first downclock above 48 degree, is because i set the baseline on the official 1900MHz stock max boost. For my example 1900 + 150 is 2050, so the 2063 below 38 degree in my mind is an additional overclock because of very low temps. 2050 is the baseline for a +150 oc, so the first downclock from that baseline is above 48 degree. Does this make any sense? Tell me the truth smile.gif

Stock max boost ist 1911 ;-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

Managed to finally get 2012mhz in ME:Andromeda on Ultra with Lighting/DOF mod with right curve on this STRIX. But I need 1.050V to get stable 2012 mhz frown.gif . I saw people here getting 2000mhz on 1.000V...

I have to run it with 60% fan speed to keep it under 62C which makes card little too loud for my taste...

I will have to try FTW3 and EVGA Hybrid SC next to see if I can get above 2000mhz stable with low noise and better stability in power hunger games....

You dont know in which conditions they just need 1.0V for 2000MHz.
2012 in me:a stable is a good value

And you can always say: i saw Guys who have an i7 7700k which is doing 5500MHz @ 1,45V but they probably binned 100+ CPUs, as an example^^
Edited by Hulio225 - 5/4/17 at 1:56pm
    
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post #8282 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulio225 View Post

Stock max boost ist 1911 ;-)

Really? Ok, that is by far a more simple explanation... biggrin.gif

Funny how the mind creates quite complex models based on assumptions just to explain what it doesnt understand...
post #8283 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

I've had top water, bottom air before, different series, not Ti's. )
works greAT.both cards stay cool.
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post #8284 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by madmeatballs View Post

I am using an Aqua Computer waterblock with active backplate. At an ambient temperature of 22c I get 35c max temps on Mass Effect Andromeda. I'll take note of my PUBG temps tomorrow. I got 2x 280mm HWLabs GTS X-flows.

Lets see some pics of your block installation + PC.

would be nice

I'm in two minds, weather to get that block also; or grab the EK one. Can't bloody decide lol.
Can't decide?

That's been my problem for years, lol.
I often wind up buying one thing, then changing my mind and buying the other.tongue.gif

I'm sure that the EK block is a fine one, I've had both brands in the past, mostly EK.
I actually had an EK and an AC block at the same time, running 780Ti's together in SLI:


They seemed to be neck and neck with the gpu temps.

But this time I decided (after buying the EK block already) to go with AC, I like their robust copper block, and thick backplate.
As for the active cooling on the backplate, it seems that it really does improve the vrm cooling considerably, based on VSG's testing, as posted earlier.

Good picking regardless of which you choose, I can't wait to get back to water again, and I'm sure you can't either!smile.gif
Edited by DerComissar - 5/4/17 at 2:16pm
    
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post #8285 of 10455
The thread is moving fast but Newegg accepted my RMA. New card get shipped out today. wheee.gif
post #8286 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

Managed to finally get 2012mhz in ME:Andromeda on Ultra with Lighting/DOF mod with right curve on this STRIX. But I need 1.050V to get stable 2012 mhz frown.gif . I saw people here getting 2000mhz on 1.000V...

1.050 is exactly what I need to be stable at 2012MHz on my GB FE + EVGA Hybrid. 2038 is about the max I can squeeze out of it, but then the TDP is through the roof. In SuPo and FS Ultra/Extreme it is in the high 1900s to meet the 300W, in games it holds 2012. I have considered my options, but decided it's not worth reselling and trying something else.
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post #8287 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny89 View Post

Managed to finally get 2012mhz in ME:Andromeda on Ultra with Lighting/DOF mod with right curve on this STRIX. But I need 1.050V to get stable 2012 mhz frown.gif . I saw people here getting 2000mhz on 1.000V...

I have to run it with 60% fan speed to keep it under 62C which makes card little too loud for my taste...

I will have to try FTW3 and EVGA Hybrid SC next to see if I can get above 2000mhz stable with low noise and better stability in power hunger games....

So you've finally hit a nice stable 2GHZ then lol.

After all that you've been through.

Not bad considering Nvidia designed cards with a stock clock of 1481, and 1582 boost.

Congrats,

A lot of people can't even hit 2100

10% (or 1 in 10) can hit 2100

In fact the "average" on air is only: 1849-1940 Mhz
Avage on water is: 2032 Mhz
LN2: 2401 Mhz

What about your memory?
Edited by nrpeyton - 5/4/17 at 2:50pm
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post #8288 of 10455
Called and cancelled my order with B+H, EVGA Hybrid 1080ti is back in stock at EVGA, placed my order and cant wait to get it biggrin.gif
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post #8289 of 10455
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunbheagan View Post

Really? Ok, that is by far a more simple explanation... biggrin.gif

Funny how the mind creates quite complex models based on assumptions just to explain what it doesnt understand...
religion in a nutshell right there. yes, it is profound.
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post #8290 of 10455
Oh, and here's a weird angle to show off most of what I've built in the past few weeks. Still can't be bothered with a custom loop. The fans for the X62 are in pull setup above the rad to facilitate easier cleaning of the eventual dust buildup - the Enthoo Evolv top airflow is pants anyway, so this is not hurting it much further.



EDIT: looking at the image, I really cannot fathom why Phanteks decided for white brackets in a completely black case buttkick.gif looks a bit daft ..
Edited by shalafi - 5/4/17 at 3:06pm
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