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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 1423

post #14221 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgang View Post

Regarding the thermal pads, i had a bunch of pads of different measures and size from fujypoly for work, so that's why i will try with these. No personal preference... i will try the Arctic for the next project! smile.gif

here is my card, and you can see the imperfections of the thermal system
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqK7XqTuPwU

in these pictures the pads are visible... and is also visible the absurde rubber filler between VRM and Heatsink
do you have some suggestions on where and how to apply ? the copper do you think is a viable solution for that VRM conformation ? (there's an heatsink also on the VRM)

I would remove the rubber filler so it can let air though the heat-sink and cool the smaller VRM heat sink..
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post #14222 of 15104
Yeah, I'd pull off that rubber strip to allow for more airflow to the VRM sink.

Those soft green thermal pads are probably junk and I'd replace the one under the independent VRM sink. The VRAM and memory VRM pads can be left alone though.
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post #14223 of 15104
Nice idea, so you think it's better to remove the rubber, instead of replace it with some thermalpads and make contact with the sink?
@blameless What you mean with "The VRAM and memory VRM pads can be left alone though" (sorry english is not my main language tongue.gif)
post #14224 of 15104
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgang View Post

Nice idea, so you think it's better to remove the rubber, instead of replace it with some thermalpads and make contact with the sink?
@blameless What you mean with "The VRAM and memory VRM pads can be left alone though" (sorry english is not my main language tongue.gif)

If money is no object check out these thermal pads at 17W/mK.

https://modmymods.com/alphacool-ice-thermal-pad-17w-mk-100x100x1-5mm-1011309.html

Edit: I went with 14W/mK fur memory and VRMs and 11W/mK for everywhere else, I'm a poor guy. . redface.gif
Edited by KedarWolf - 9/29/17 at 9:56am
    
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post #14225 of 15104
I can do 2075 at 1.050V, but I think I'll stick to 1949 at 0.900V. Temps are sub 40 at that voltage. biggrin.gif
post #14226 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

If money is no object check out these renal pads at 17W/mK.

https://modmymods.com/alphacool-ice-thermal-pad-17w-mk-100x100x1-5mm-1011309.html



o_O

$_$
post #14227 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgang View Post

Nice idea, so you think it's better to remove the rubber, instead of replace it with some thermalpads and make contact with the sink?

Yes. You aren't going to get enough contact to justify the airflow obstruction with that design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgang View Post

@blameless What you mean with "The VRAM and memory VRM pads can be left alone though" (sorry english is not my main language tongue.gif)

You can leave the pads on the main heatsink, the ones that cool the GDDR5X, and smaller VRM area, alone. You might see some small improvement by replacing them, but given the lower thermal density of these parts, probably not enough to justify replacing them.
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post #14228 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgang View Post

Regarding the thermal pads, i had a bunch of pads of different measures and size from fujypoly for work, so that's why i will try with these. No personal preference... i will try the Arctic for the next project! smile.gif

here is my card, and you can see the imperfections of the thermal system
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqK7XqTuPwU

in these pictures the pads are visible... and is also visible the absurde rubber filler between VRM and Heatsink
do you have some suggestions on where and how to apply ? the copper do you think is a viable solution for that VRM conformation ? (there's an heatsink also on the VRM)

The rubber filler might be thermally conductive -- I think there are such things.
post #14229 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8051 View Post

The rubber filler might be thermally conductive -- I think there are such things.

Everything is thermally conductive, to one degree or another. I still think that rubber strip is just a rubber strip placed there to prevent the fins of the main heatsink and the VRM heatsink from damaging each other.

Regardless, with how much air flow it blocks, it wouldn't matter if it was pure silver and soldered to both heatsinks, it would probably harm performance of the VRM heatsink more than it would help.
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post #14230 of 15104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

You can order in bulk from metal suppliers or just go to an arts and crafts or hardware store for smaller amounts.

I try to use copper for any gap over 1mm in thickness (assuming I can make sure it won't short anything and that the surfaces aren't so irregular that a pad is absolutely needed), and just paste for anything less than 0.25mm.

I happen to have a bunch of these laying around from earlier this year when I was planning on re pasting my Alienware 17 Pascal machine ...

...



...

Here's a link; stupid cheap too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5SMY0W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never got around to using them on the Alienware laptop as my temps have never caused throttling of either CPU or GPU on that (ridiculously great) machine ... so do you think these might work in place of thermal pads on a MSI Seahawk 1080 ti? I would most likely use a small layer of thermal paste on both sides of the shim ...

My only worry is that they would not have any "give" and that the CPU block might not make good contact with the GPU die

Great idea ... copper shims have *got* to be many times better than any thermal pad if contact is right...

thumb.gif
Edited by s1rrah - 9/29/17 at 1:31pm
    
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