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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 1511

post #15101 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by DStealth View Post

And this statement actually means nothing such offset on top factory OCed cards means top HOF results and on FE means not even average results.
Please write the exact values you have during benchmarks not offset please.
Oh sorry about that.
The core clock is 2050Mhz and memory 5805Mhz
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post #15102 of 15473
Corsair Hydro GFX(massive regret, wish I would have got the EVGA SC Hybrid). Voltage untouched, power limit maxed. Benchmarks have it running at 2050 or 2062, depending on the specific benchmark, in games it sometimes drops down to 2GHz. Memory hits 5950, initially had it at 6000, but after a few weeks I started noticing issues with stability in specific scenarios, been flawless since dropping it to 5950.

The reason I regret this specific card is because Corsair software is terrible. Like an idiot, I bought the Commander Pro to control all my ML120 fans(and so I can tie the GPU rad fan to GPU core temp). To be safe, I have to manually set my fans to a "Game" profile I made with static fan speeds because Corsair Link likes to freeze in the background periodically.
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post #15103 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by shreduhsoreus View Post

Corsair Hydro GFX(massive regret, wish I would have got the EVGA SC Hybrid). Voltage untouched, power limit maxed. Benchmarks have it running at 2050 or 2062, depending on the specific benchmark, in games it sometimes drops down to 2GHz. Memory hits 5950, initially had it at 6000, but after a few weeks I started noticing issues with stability in specific scenarios, been flawless since dropping it to 5950.

The reason I regret this specific card is because Corsair software is terrible. Like an idiot, I bought the Commander Pro to control all my ML120 fans(and so I can tie the GPU rad fan to GPU core temp). To be safe, I have to manually set my fans to a "Game" profile I made with static fan speeds because Corsair Link likes to freeze in the background periodically.

Don't use the corsair software then.

You can easily set rad fan to mobo fan header or other means to control it.
post #15104 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakanoth View Post

It is not a workaround, IMO. You attacked the heart of the problem. smile.gif
If cleartype calibration helped you fix the issue, then you fixed the root of the problem. No need to worry about "the core" of the issue. Your problem is not a hardware problem.

I'm still getting a red 'tint' to text today when HDR is enabled in Windows display properties.

It is affecting black text on white background the most.

For example this text which I'm typing now is affected. BUT the white text on the grey banner on the bottom of this page looks absolutely fine.

Also sometimes after restarting the PC I've got to "wiggle" the HDMI cable a little to get the picture to show on the TV... I'm beginning to suspect maybe a faulty HDMI cable is causing it.

Although I was skeptical of this because with HDMI I always believed it either worked perfectly 100% or didn't work at all (due to it being a digital -- not an analogue signal).
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post #15105 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post

Don't use the corsair software then.

You can easily set rad fan to mobo fan header or other means to control it.

There is no other way to tie the fan speed to GPU core temperature. My motherboard isn't supported by Speed Fan(plus I wouldn't use that software if you paid me because I'm not stuck in 2001). And all of those other methods would be no less of a hassle than the way I do it now. I can't rely on CPU temp because mining, folding and gaming all have different typical CPU temps. This is the best way for me to do it. I should have just went with EVGA.

I don't think I'm being unreasonable by expecting a big company like Corsair to get their software figured out, especially considering how many people have issues with it.
Edited by shreduhsoreus - 11/20/17 at 6:53pm
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post #15106 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

I'm still getting a red 'tint' to text today when HDR is enabled in Windows display properties.

It is affecting black text on white background the most.

For example this text which I'm typing now is affected. BUT the white text on the grey banner on the bottom of this page looks absolutely fine.

Also sometimes after restarting the PC I've got to "wiggle" the HDMI cable a little to get the picture to show on the TV... I'm beginning to suspect maybe a faulty HDMI cable is causing it.

Although I was skeptical of this because with HDMI I always believed it either worked perfectly 100% or didn't work at all (due to it being a digital -- not an analogue signal).

A faulty HDMI cable can cause image artefacts. While it is true superior quality cables don't affect image quality, a faulty cable can affect image quality if the fault was not enough to completely degrade the handshake.
post #15107 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by shreduhsoreus View Post

There is no other way to tie the fan speed to GPU core temperature. My motherboard isn't supported by Speed Fan(plus I wouldn't use that software if you paid me because I'm not stuck in 2001). And all of those other methods would be no less of a hassle than the way I do it now. I can't rely on CPU temp because mining, folding and gaming all have different typical CPU temps. This is the best way for me to do it. I should have just went with EVGA.

I don't think I'm being unreasonable by expecting a big company like Corsair to get their software figured out, especially considering how many people have issues with it.

Replace the rad fan with something much better like a low RPM ek vardar fan or ML120 fan.

Those will outperform stock rad fan while being quieter.
Then you can just have it run full speed 24/7
post #15108 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post

Replace the rad fan with something much better like a low RPM ek vardar fan or ML120 fan.

Those will outperform stock rad fan while being quieter.
Then you can just have it run full speed 24/7

The stock fan IS an ML120, that's what separates it from the MSI Seahawk(that and a Corsair logo instead of "Seahawk") and the only reason I bought it haha. They're definitely not quiet either, I have 6 of them. They're great for low RPMs, but once they kick up to full speed they're just as loud as most fans.

I just have to right click the Corsair Link logo in my system tray, select my "Game" profile I created(GPU rad fan at 2000RPM, CPU rad fans at 1250)and I'm good to go. It's just annoying that I can't use my custom curves because if Link decides to freeze in the background I end up seeing my liquid cooled card hit 70 degrees(with the software thinking it's only ~40). Very hit or miss, with miss being more common. Here's hoping their upcoming "Sync" software that combines CUE and Link works better...but I'm not holding my breath.

I appreciate the advice, it's just a lost cause for me. The MSI/Corsair liquid cooled cards are just the worst of the bunch. At least the GPU itself is good lol.
Edited by shreduhsoreus - 11/21/17 at 12:26am
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post #15109 of 15473
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrpeyton View Post

I'm still getting a red 'tint' to text today when HDR is enabled in Windows display properties.

It is affecting black text on white background the most.

For example this text which I'm typing now is affected. BUT the white text on the grey banner on the bottom of this page looks absolutely fine.

Also sometimes after restarting the PC I've got to "wiggle" the HDMI cable a little to get the picture to show on the TV... I'm beginning to suspect maybe a faulty HDMI cable is causing it.

Although I was skeptical of this because with HDMI I always believed it either worked perfectly 100% or didn't work at all (due to it being a digital -- not an analogue signal).

It is most likely a bad cable.

The "it works or it doesn't" concept is a good one, but it gets murky when you throw in error correction. HDMI has error correction, so a marginal signal can display with artifacts.

In practice this just means that any capable of meeting the appropriate HDMI spec will work fine. An older cable will work too as long as it was built to exceed the previous spec. Out of spec or damaged cables will make you lose your mind.

About 2 months ago I had a cable that had endured one too many bends tint my whole screen red. I spent an hour tracking it down as I had just swapped the video card in the machine it was hooked up to.
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post #15110 of 15473
So whats the safe 24/7 voltage? im using currently 1.093V with xoc bios & EK waterblock.
If i remember correctly with stock bios my card was running at 1.093V when voltage was set to +100
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