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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Club - Page 647

post #6461 of 14558
I tried the Zotac bios on my Armor OC, and i got excited at first because i wasnt having the issues that i was with the Asus bios, but it wont recognize any TDP adjustments over 100%, so it caps me to 320w vs 330 with the stock vbios

bummer.
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post #6462 of 14558
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXteR View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

According to this review, the SC2 bios should give you 315 watts on the FE.

This is similar to what I saw on the Inno3d and Asus bios. I roughly got 10-15 more watts.

I cannot measure and test this anymore because I am shunt modded.

But I am using it and it is shunt mod compatible since this bios is based off of reference design.

Asus bios isn't compatible with shunt mod. Inno3d crashes as well as zotac amp extreme. Gigabyte plain just doesn't work.

So far SC2 is the best compatible bios for me.

Where's that SC2 bios? can't find on the post nor techpowerup database.

SC2 BIOS crashed on me same settings Asus and stock worked, no shunt mod. redface.gif
    
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post #6463 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

you gotta give us more to go on. what settings? voltage ? how much? what tests? how does it crash? is your cpu OC'd? Is it for sure stable? Have you tried the curve? Did you lock it? What about at 1.043 or 1.05v, what does it crash at at those voltages?

I bet that card is fine. In fact, 2012/2025 is at or above average OC on these. they have 1000 more cores than a 1080, remember that. Seeing all these repeat posts of the same dozen guys who managed to get 2100 to stick can be disheartening. But look at how many cards some of us run through. Look at all the extra paste and heatsinks and shunt mods and soldered wires and a few burned out cards; and bios mods and time spent benching/testing/forum posting, returning and rebuying and reselling and tearing apart our rigs and draining loops again and again...


The guy who bought the Zotac and plugged it in and was running 2037 right off the bat with 2 minutes involved in the whole process is 100% the winner in this whole thread. Luckily I enjoy the whole process, but it is work, no doubt about it. I.T. work for fun.

Keep your chin up. That GPU smokes any you've ever had by A LOT. It's probably better than anybody you know in real life's gpu. It's probably overkill for your current monitor anyway. It games silently and it doesnt run hot. It's all good, brother. We are here to help if you really need to see 2037 or 2050 to be happy. I bet we can get you there at least.

Thanks for the words of encouragement lol.

I'll try to answer your questions best I can while at work at not on my computer. I tried voltage up to 1.093v. I made a custom curve.

About the curve: I did not lock it, I do not know what that does. My first day learning about the curve I set 2025 at 1.093v, and the next 3 or 4 voltage points to 2012. For the majority, it would instantly downlock to 2012 and stay there throughout the entire Heaven benchmark. Read more the next day and learned to start at 1.000v and see where I can get lowest voltage 2025/2012 stable. I opted to try for 2012. I think it was 1.050 that 2012 seemed stable. Well my problem was when I set 1.05v and the rest of the voltage points after that flat on 2012, it would downlock pretty fast in heaven to 1999 and so forth unlike the previous day where it would downclock from 2025 after like 20 seconds and stay at 2012 for majority if not all of heaven benchmark run.

After getting discouraged from that I called it a night and made the previous post. I still think I dont understand the voltage curve and DEFINITELY need help.
post #6464 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

yeah, do it the tried and true way and you'll know your card very well. If you push it more and it crashes, you'll know it so well you'll say, "Damn , I knew I pushed 1.043v a little too hard". Just knowing your limits is the key to maximizing your overclock.

That rainbow is weird. i only got it a few times. try a baby voltage bump and lock it one higher up the curve and see if it goes away or at least goes to just blue.

What is a "baby voltage bump and lock it one higher up the curve mean"?
Does this mean if I am currently having (1.012v @ 2037) and flatline above (1.012v) then I should move to a lower clock like 1999 @ 1.012v and have the next voltage (1.025v @ 2037) so like try moving my curve up one voltage step?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico67 
close and open GPU-Z, I think it can bug out and rainbow, did that for me once too, but also default the curve using cntrl+d and start testing just 1.000v, ignore score for now or your just chasing your tail basically smile.gif All your interested in is stability with no green at that voltage, and don't touch any voltage points below that as they don't matter.
It is tedious as Slackaveli rightly noted, but its the same principle as overclocking a CPU, pick a voltage a see what the max clock is, the raise the voltage a step and see how much more you can get. 1.000v stable is likely a good point for all cards not to get green in most benchmarks. Tests like SuPo 4K are designed to ruin your day smile.gif, but games will be fine.
My gaming curve is default FE curve, with 1.050 raised to 2101 and flat after and its fine because the games I have been playing barely reach 120% if ever.

Should I when testing make the curve flat line on anything above the voltage I'm testing? So like 1.000v and above flatline test.
Once I find max stable I go to (1.012v) and flatline everything above (1.012v) to find the highest stable clock? etc. etc.?

I'm kind of repeating questions but I want to make sure that I'm correctly understanding.

Also, If I don't have a 4K monitor (only 1080p) can I still run the 4k tests with SuPo and other benches? I'm assuming the answer would be NO that it doesn't somehow virtually apply a 4k resolution in like a sandbox environment.

ps. That Rainbow happens to me a lot.

What is locking / unlocking the curve and how do you "lock" the curve?
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post #6465 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

SC2 BIOS crashed on me same settings Asus and stock worked, no shunt mod. redface.gif

It crashed because of your OC right? It might require different tweaking and playing with the voltage curve. From my experience, you can't just use the same exact voltage curve for every bios, they give slightly different results and all need to be tamed.

But the Inno3D bios literally instantly crashes anytime, every time, even on stock clocks or down clocked in gaming. So that's what I mean by "crashing" as it won't even load in any situation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXteR View Post

Where's that SC2 bios? can't find on the post nor techpowerup database.

As for the SC2 bios,

EVGA1080TiSC2.zip 155k .zip file

It's working well, you don't lose a DP1, you should get the extra 15 watts like the other bios and you get the ability to have 0% fan speed when idle. It is written and based off of a reference card so works well with shunt mod.
post #6466 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyL4 View Post

Thanks for the words of encouragement lol.

I'll try to answer your questions best I can while at work at not on my computer. I tried voltage up to 1.093v. I made a custom curve.

About the curve: I did not lock it, I do not know what that does. My first day learning about the curve I set 2025 at 1.093v, and the next 3 or 4 voltage points to 2012. For the majority, it would instantly downlock to 2012 and stay there throughout the entire Heaven benchmark. Read more the next day and learned to start at 1.000v and see where I can get lowest voltage 2025/2012 stable. I opted to try for 2012. I think it was 1.050 that 2012 seemed stable. Well my problem was when I set 1.05v and the rest of the voltage points after that flat on 2012, it would downlock pretty fast in heaven to 1999 and so forth unlike the previous day where it would downclock from 2025 after like 20 seconds and stay at 2012 for majority if not all of heaven benchmark run.

After getting discouraged from that I called it a night and made the previous post. I still think I dont understand the voltage curve and DEFINITELY need help.

From the tutorial video KedarWolf made (http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps) I think you are supposed to set your clocks one higher than what you actually want to be at. So if you want 2012 clock you would set the flatline to 2025 so that it will downclock to 2012 like you are noticing. (Hopefully one of the pros here can confirm this is correct)

My response is somewhat like "The blind leading the blind".
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post #6467 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

It crashed because of your OC right? It might require different tweaking and playing with the voltage curve. From my experience, you can't just use the same exact voltage curve for every bios, they give slightly different results and all need to be tamed.

But the Inno3D bios literally instantly crashes anytime, every time, even on stock clocks or down clocked in gaming. So that's what I mean by "crashing" as it won't even load in any situation.
As for the SC2 bios,

EVGA1080TiSC2.zip 155k .zip file

It's working well, you don't lose a DP1, you should get the extra 15 watts like the other bios and you get the ability to have 0% fan speed when idle. It is written and based off of a reference card so works well with shunt mod.

Surprisingly Inno3D bios worked best for me. On stock i would sometimes crash running 2050 but on Inno3D im stable at 2063MHz at a lower voltage. Also my memory is able to clock way higher.
post #6468 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

It crashed because of your OC right? It might require different tweaking and playing with the voltage curve. From my experience, you can't just use the same exact voltage curve for every bios, they give slightly different results and all need to be tamed.

But the Inno3D bios literally instantly crashes anytime, every time, even on stock clocks or down clocked in gaming. So that's what I mean by "crashing" as it won't even load in any situation.
As for the SC2 bios,

EVGA1080TiSC2.zip 155k .zip file

It's working well, you don't lose a DP1, you should get the extra 15 watts like the other bios and you get the ability to have 0% fan speed when idle. It is written and based off of a reference card so works well with shunt mod.

Are you saying that this bios really does give you extra power? I recall you saying the Asus bios doing nothing, but this one works?
post #6469 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addsome View Post

Surprisingly Inno3D bios worked best for me. On stock i would sometimes crash running 2050 but on Inno3D im stable at 2063MHz at a lower voltage. Also my memory is able to clock way higher.

Same here but with the SC2 bios, my memory can now go from 450 to 550 which is pretty nice.

Did you try the SC2 bios?
post #6470 of 14558
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Same here but with the SC2 bios, my memory can now go from 450 to 550 which is pretty nice.

Did you try the SC2 bios?

Not yet, will try it once I get home. Are you sure it is giving 15W extra power? I know the Inno3D one is.
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