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ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread - Page 1100

post #10991 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmor View Post


Thanks for testing smile.gif It uses the same fix as Ryzen Master so behavior will be the same.
On 0079 and newer it works without HPET. On 1002 and earlier you need HPET enabled to avoid glitching.

Are you on Creator's update?

No. My OS is W10 64 bits [Versión 10.0.14393]. it was installed new on 960 EVO M2. Not updates actually.
Bios is 1002, by now....
post #10992 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by r4m0n View Post

FPS = number of frames / duration of measurement. The time of measurement is derived from the internal timers, and if they don't match the real time going outside the computer, the number isn't frames per second anymore. If you have a monitor with Freesync that's capable of showing the true FPS on itself, you could compare with the software FPS and see the skew in action.

As for other platforms, I don't know. It all depends on if the processor can detect a changing BCLK and keep the timers in sync. HPET is an extra module with an independent clock, so it can't be skewed without a lot of extra work.
I'm not sure exactly where the overhead of checking the HPET comes in, but I know the main timer on Ryzen (TSC) is kept at a register, so its access is pretty much instantaneous.

As for disabling the HPET in the BIOS, I haven't found it anywhere either.

So if I turn HPET off, as long as I don't touch the Bclk everything should be hunky dory, since Ryzen has its own timer? Bclk has its way of not maintaining what its set to tho... even tho the variations usually aren't that drastic. I wonder how much of that has an effect on the reality of scores when its turned off even if you don't manually change the bclk.. Perhaps due to this variation the performance increase or decrease people are seeing isn't true after all.

I'm probably thinking too deeply into this. Damn OCD.
Edited by Reikoji - 4/23/17 at 9:32am
post #10993 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarianblessed View Post

Any chance you could post screenshots from your Extreme Tweaker and Digi+ Power control pages in the BIOS?

Yeah, I posted them a few days ago..

Nothing crazy going on in the bios, other than spread spectrum being turned off, llc set to level 2, and dram boot voltage set to 1.41v, digi power is all default.

Extreame tweaker is set to safe boot settings, 40x100, 1.38vcore, 1.35v dram, 3200 multiplier, 14-14-14-14-36, soc 1.05, pll manually set at 1.8v.

Everything else I modify in ai suite unless chainging the DRAM settings.

What would you like to see?
post #10994 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeltPC View Post

Welcome.

If you have not installed Aura yet, that may be the issue.

You do not necessarily want the latest test bios. You want the one that makes the most sense for you, and in particular your memory. I have a slightly different kit than yours, but I think yours is Samsung B-Die as well, which would be a good thing. That means 0083 is not needed since you should be able to run at 1T and that version is for 2T.

You don't need 0082 either since your DRAM is not on the list of those this patch included.

That leaves you with running:

1) 1002 - (last official UEFI)

2) 0079 - AGESA 1004a test version, with bugfixes

3) 0081 - 0079 + ProcODT = 53.3 ohm

Of these, it really is just a matter of what you want.

Oh yes, I should add that clearing CMOS with the button on the backplate BEFORE changing your UEFI / Bios version is suggested.

As to speed, try entering a memory speed of 2400 MHz to start, and timings of something in the neighborhood of 17-18-18-38 (your rated timing on that memory). Reboot and see if it works. You can then start stepping up from there. I would suggest doing this in gradual steps.

If you want to hit 3200MHz you may well need to bump up your DRAM voltage. If you do, it may be wise to at the same time increase Vboot voltage to the same value. You could try 1.375 or 1.4 volts if you need to.

Best of luck and have fun.

Thanks for the tip. Yes they are Samsung B's, running at 2933 at the mo. 3200 doesn't post and then reverts itself back to 2133 (BIOS 0081).

Havn't really got much incentive to try anything else right now as the RGB have stopped working altogether. Is this something that can be fixed or should I just be sending the board back? This is my first Asus board and its not off to a good start. Considering sending it back in exchange for something else
post #10995 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by majestynl View Post

@Gadfly @Reikoji

Guys, users are interested in your settings and not only showing screenshots of your highest bench/scores. Keep this thread clean and don't use it as a catwalk..thanks

My settings, build, cooling, etc, are all over this thread... not my fault if you are not paying attention.
post #10996 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reikoji View Post

So if I turn HPET off, as long as I don't touch the Bclk everything should be hunky dory, since Ryzen has its own timer? Bclk has its way of not maintaining what its set to tho... even tho the variations usually aren't that drastic. I wonder how much of that has an effect on the reality of scores when its turned off even if you don't manually change the bclk.. Perhaps due to this variation the performance increase or decrease people are seeing isn't true after all.

I'm probably thinking too deeply into this. Damn OCD.

I'm pretty sure you're safe with HPET off if you only set the BCLK in BIOS. During the boot process the processor should use the HPET or other methods to figure out exactly how fast the clock is going, and after that everything is fine.

As for the variations, it's mostly sampling error on the measurement apps. There isn't a widely available source for the BCLK (it's motherboard specific), so they need to measure that themselves. Whatever you set in BIOS or in the OC apps is very, very close to the real BCLK, any variations you see are artifacts of the measurement process, and variations in benchmarks are due to thread scheduling, OS overhead and the like.
    
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post #10997 of 17271
@r4m0n @Reikoji

Currently UEFI does not have HPET off option.

I did do some 3DM13 TS runs yesterday. No BCLK meddling, just runs to know how to make OS tweaked for "optimal" performance plus know if resuming from "Sleep" I'm losing any performance, etc.

Comparing results 2 & 3 FreeSync being on or not was not swaying results, in 3DM FS under W10 FreeSync being On knocks result down by ~1000 points for me, results in OP of thread in my sig. Then also result 2 is with HPET on and 3 off, no difference other than run to run variance. Result 4 was to see run to run variance, IIRC done after run 3.

Comparing results 1 & 2 resuming system from "Sleep" with HPET On no difference vs reboot run. Will try a run from "Sleep" with HPET Off.

Today I did some CB R15 (OP of my thread has some W7).

From Resume, HPET On. (Click to show)

From boot, HPET On. (Click to show)

From boot, HPET Off. (Click to show)

From Resume, HPET Off. (Click to show)


All results are with Performance Bias [Auto] in UEFI. The 1703 result in CB R15 is from W7, same OC profile, High Performance power plan, with min CPU State 5% for down clock/volting, Core Parking disabled (100%). As this gave best results for me.

As you can see from screenies I'm on W10 Balanced with CP 50%, this is not only "Optimal" for 3DM FS but also CB R15, also matching W7 result within run to run variance.

So far W10 is giving me like performance as W7, I had concerns of going to W10 due to stuff on web that W7 scheduler was better for Ryzen. For me Ryzen power plan has been pants so far as well, my modded Balanced PP is better IMO. Also rolling with HPET On.

My W10C was clean install from ISO, few pages back I highlighted to bluej511 HPET was On for me, link.
Edited by gupsterg - 4/23/17 at 10:02am
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post #10998 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugs View Post

That chip is amazing! Could you post your settings and refinements since last time?

The big change is that I rebuilt my loop.

Dual D5 pumps, EK dual housing
1080ti x2 with EK FC blocks,
EK evo converted to AMD edition to use factory backplate
2x Koolance 360mm slim radiators
EK furious vadar fans (3k).
All tim replaced with Thermal grizzly liquid metal "conductanaut"


Other than that it is all pretty straight forward. I am able to clock my CPU up a lot higher after the rebuild. Memory remains unchanged, I can run 3200 12-11-11-11-32 and 3600 14-14-14-14-36, tested on the 4 highest multipliers.
post #10999 of 17271
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadfly View Post

The big change is that I rebuilt my loop.

Dual D5 pumps, EK dual housing
1080ti x2 with EK FC blocks,
EK evo converted to AMD edition to use factory backplate
2x Koolance 360mm slim radiators
EK furious vadar fans (3k).
All tim replaced with Thermal grizzly liquid metal "conductanaut"


Other than that it is all pretty straight forward. I am able to clock my CPU up a lot higher after the rebuild. Memory remains unchanged, I can run 3200 12-11-11-11-32 and 3600 14-14-14-14-36, tested on the 4 highest multipliers.

I figured it was because my cooling isn't absolute top of the line i cant get a very stable 4.2ghz at the voltage it needs. Heat rises too fast. I don't want to have to deal with backplate issues either going into the top-of-the-line water loops either. Decisions decisions... I need a new case anyway.
Edited by Reikoji - 4/23/17 at 10:26am
post #11000 of 17271
@buttmen
I have a 1800x running at 101*40.25 , 1.4475v llc3
My ram is a f4-3200c14q-64gtz kit running currently at 3232 Mhz on the 3200Mhz strap but with loose timing 18-16-16-16-36-T2 at 1.375 V.
I'm on the 083 bios.

Ps: if anyone know how to lower the timing without putting to much voltage , i'll try.
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