Overclock.net › Forums › AMD › AMD Motherboards › ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread - Page 1151

post #11501 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by S1L3N7D3A7H View Post

Just waiting.

Doesn't the weird colored lines just turn into a black screen? I never waited it out and just forced a restart within 10 seconds... hmm... maybe I should try waiting it out.

Can you describe how it looks? Mine appears to have no signal to the monitor, but never waited it out.
Ryzen - Elmor
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1700 @ 3.8Ghz ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VI HERO GeForce GTX 1070 32GB DDR4-3466 16-15-15-35 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 960 EVO 1TB Samsung 830 SSD 256GB Hitachi 2TB HGST 4TB  
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Noctua NH-D15S Windows 10 Pro Acer Predator XB271HU SeaSonic PRIME Titanium 750W 
Case
Fractal Design Define R5 
  hide details  
Reply
Ryzen - Elmor
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1700 @ 3.8Ghz ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VI HERO GeForce GTX 1070 32GB DDR4-3466 16-15-15-35 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 960 EVO 1TB Samsung 830 SSD 256GB Hitachi 2TB HGST 4TB  
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Noctua NH-D15S Windows 10 Pro Acer Predator XB271HU SeaSonic PRIME Titanium 750W 
Case
Fractal Design Define R5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #11502 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by finalheaven View Post

Doesn't the weird colored lines just turn into a black screen? I never waited it out and just forced a restart within 10 seconds... hmm... maybe I should try waiting it out.

Can you describe how it looks? Mine appears to have no signal to the monitor, but never waited it out.

I get a bunch of solid pink/purple and some green lines going horizontally on my primary display after windows loading finishes where it should be at the login screen. After about a minute, it will go black, then go back to normal.
post #11503 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by malitze View Post

Thanks for sharing! About the DDP votlage, have you got any details on that one?
What exactly do you need to know? I need to increase DDP on top of increased Vcore to make the combination of CPU and RAM OC work. Both CPU and RAM don't seem to need these increases on their own to run stable.
post #11504 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timur Born View Post

What exactly do you need to know? I need to increase DDP on top of increased Vcore to make the combination of CPU and RAM OC work. Both CPU and RAM don't seem to need these increases on their own to run stable.

I'm mostly interested in how you'd determine that that particular voltage needed to be increased. I haven't found much about its use / effects unfortunately wink.gif Just to get a grip on how the pieces work together.
main
(10 items)
 
  
Reply
main
(10 items)
 
  
Reply
post #11505 of 17055
I have been building for 20 years and have been tweaking this build for over a month. I get why people want to throw it against the wall.
I mean how hard is it un-needingly because the mobo or bios is just wrong? For instance I set dram voltage at 1.40v on ANY OTHER
MOTHERBOARD EVER TO EXIST and hwinfo will have dram voltage at 1.40v exactly, maybe +/- .01 volts. On this motherboard, bios 81,
1.40v on ram is NEVER 1.40v that I set in the bios. It reports 1.373 to 1.395v. NEVER does it do 1.4v, sure 1.395 is close but that is the high,
average is 1.383v, and people wonder why their memory fails or won't run at rated speeds. So I guess if you want your kit to hit 3600 mhz, you
need 1.4v, so just set it at like 1.43v and maybe this mobo will decide to give you 1.4v. Same goes with cpu and most other volts, they are
all on the low side and it is very annoying. My cpu is set at 1.39v LLC 3 and I have never seen 1.39v, I see 1.352-1.373v with a 1.354 average,
it is NOT EVEN COSE TO THE 1.39v I set and that is with LLC 3! This boards or bios's temperature sensors and voltage sensors are all off and
causing undervolting and 20C over reporting of temps making fans into jet engines at idle and making Aura temp colors RED at idle. There is
just a lot of work that needs to be done on this $300 motherboard that has been out 2 months already. I paid up for the best, for accuracy, not
this nonsense. OOOOOOOHH, but it has a physical LN switch that 7 people in the world will ever touch. PLEASE ASUS get your priorities straight
and fix this shi!t. No one can get a reliable 24/7 business machine with all this wackiness going on, not even gonna mention the NVME pauses, ugh.
post #11506 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timur Born View Post

It seems that I have found a sweet spot for CPU + RAM OC here, being ITB AVX (10 loops) stable. This needs more testing with other stress tests, though.

REFCLK: 103.2
CPU: 3998.9 MHz
RAM: 3302.2-14-14-14-34-75



The combination of both OCs needs an extra +0.025 V on Vcore (LLC0/Auto) and increased DDP (currently using 0.96 V, can be lowered maybe). SOC is on Auto 1.15 V and likely can be lowered. Curiously even using +0.006 V results in SOC decreasing to around 1.09 V.

Going from 103.2 to 103.4 REFCLK results in the RAM OC failing at these timings (POSTs at lower frequency). Increasing the CPU multi from x38.75 to x39 results in considerably more Vcore being needed to be ITB AVX stable (no problems running CB15 for a score of around 1800 - 1817 at 4.1).

The good thing about using such a low REFCLK for OC is that all my PCIe cards still seem to work, more thorough testing is needed on that, too.

Isn't that a little too high DDP voltage? I say that because DDP is usually half of the DRAM voltage.
post #11507 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotstocks View Post

I have been building for 20 years and have been tweaking this build for over a month. I get why people want to throw it against the wall.
I mean how hard is it un-needingly because the mobo or bios is just wrong? For instance I set dram voltage at 1.40v on ANY OTHER
MOTHERBOARD EVER TO EXIST and hwinfo will have dram voltage at 1.40v exactly, maybe +/- .01 volts. On this motherboard, bios 81,
1.40v on ram is NEVER 1.40v that I set in the bios. It reports 1.373 to 1.395v. NEVER does it do 1.4v, sure 1.395 is close but that is the high,
average is 1.383v, and people wonder why their memory fails or won't run at rated speeds. So I guess if you want your kit to hit 3600 mhz, you
need 1.4v, so just set it at like 1.43v and maybe this mobo will decide to give you 1.4v. Same goes with cpu and most other volts, they are
all on the low side and it is very annoying. My cpu is set at 1.39v LLC 3 and I have never seen 1.39v, I see 1.352-1.373v with a 1.354 average,
it is NOT EVEN COSE TO THE 1.39v I set and that is with LLC 3! This boards or bios's temperature sensors and voltage sensors are all off and
causing undervolting and 20C over reporting of temps making fans into jet engines at idle and making Aura temp colors RED at idle. There is
just a lot of work that needs to be done on this $300 motherboard that has been out 2 months already. I paid up for the best, for accuracy, not
this nonsense. OOOOOOOHH, but it has a physical LN switch that 7 people in the world will ever touch. PLEASE ASUS get your priorities straight
and fix this shi!t. No one can get a reliable 24/7 business machine with all this wackiness going on, not even gonna mention the NVME pauses, ugh.

maybe those other mobos were lying to you, like Ryzen lies about temps biggrin.gif but in seriousness, maybe other mobos don't show the loadline being accounted for, (or auto actually does something on them!). DRAM on this board like CPU also has load line levels.

I get how some things people are going through can be frustrating, but remember this is how it is for people who buy stuff on launch day. Like stuff in general, not just PC parts. Just be thankful nothings rapidly expanded (yet), like the Samsung galaxy note 7.
post #11508 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reikoji View Post

maybe those other mobos were lying to you, like Ryzen lies about temps biggrin.gif but in seriousness, maybe other mobos don't show the loadline being accounted for, (or auto actually does something on them!). DRAM on this board like CPU also has load line levels.

I get how some things people are going through can be frustrating, but remember this is how it is for people who buy stuff on launch day. Like stuff in general, not just PC parts. Just be thankful nothings rapidly expanded (yet), like the Samsung galaxy note 7.

Lol, I had a Samsung Galaxy Note 7 on launch, had to return it. Got an LG V20, nice phone but poor battery life, though the battery is replaceable which makes it infinitaley better than any of the new sealed ****ty flagships you can't change the battery with.
post #11509 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotstocks View Post

I have been building for 20 years and have been tweaking this build for over a month. I get why people want to throw it against the wall.
I mean how hard is it un-needingly because the mobo or bios is just wrong? For instance I set dram voltage at 1.40v on ANY OTHER
MOTHERBOARD EVER TO EXIST and hwinfo will have dram voltage at 1.40v exactly, maybe +/- .01 volts. On this motherboard, bios 81,
1.40v on ram is NEVER 1.40v that I set in the bios. It reports 1.373 to 1.395v. NEVER does it do 1.4v, sure 1.395 is close but that is the high,
average is 1.383v, and people wonder why their memory fails or won't run at rated speeds. So I guess if you want your kit to hit 3600 mhz, you
need 1.4v, so just set it at like 1.43v and maybe this mobo will decide to give you 1.4v. Same goes with cpu and most other volts, they are
all on the low side and it is very annoying. My cpu is set at 1.39v LLC 3 and I have never seen 1.39v, I see 1.352-1.373v with a 1.354 average,
it is NOT EVEN COSE TO THE 1.39v I set and that is with LLC 3! This boards or bios's temperature sensors and voltage sensors are all off and
causing undervolting and 20C over reporting of temps making fans into jet engines at idle and making Aura temp colors RED at idle. There is
just a lot of work that needs to be done on this $300 motherboard that has been out 2 months already. I paid up for the best, for accuracy, not
this nonsense. OOOOOOOHH, but it has a physical LN switch that 7 people in the world will ever touch. PLEASE ASUS get your priorities straight
and fix this shi!t. No one can get a reliable 24/7 business machine with all this wackiness going on, not even gonna mention the NVME pauses, ugh.

So other than that you are pretty happy? wink.gif

LOL, compared to the "some assembly required" I just got done with (well mostly done) on the small bookcase I got for a PC stand, dealing with Ryzen / C6H has been a cakewalk
Edited by CeltPC - 4/25/17 at 5:02pm
post #11510 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by madweazl View Post

I had posted these a few days back.
The 3200 low CAS kits (14) are the same ICs and I believe they're just as capable in terms of OC potential as the higher rated since they're doing so with increased voltage and latencies (you can accomplish the same at home).

That may be so, but I look at it this way. a 3200 14 cas kit was tested to run at that much, and they released it as such. a 4266 kit 19 cas was also tested to run stable as such. I see a kit tested to run much faster and passing would easily be able to run at the in between levels. When we get a higher strap, say 3600, i would think a kit tested to run faster would have better fortune running on the 3600 strap than the kit not tested to run that fast.

Just imo, i'm all about going for broke, thats why I bought the kit I have smile.gif.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: AMD Motherboards
Overclock.net › Forums › AMD › AMD Motherboards › ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread