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ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread - Page 933

post #9321 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by goncalossilva View Post


Go to Device Manager -> Universal Serial Bus Controllers, and then for each of them right click -> Properties -> Power Management and unselect "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". Some of the entries won't have this option, it's OK. Hope it fixes your problem, I had a similar one.
Tried that, didnt make a difference. Also tried the USB log viewer, nothing shows in it when the sound plays. Im officially stumped. Maybe elmor can shed some light on it?
post #9322 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndehX View Post

Can anyone help with this? It's literally driving me crazy.

Another suggestion if you are still having the issue, you might look at the options under your power plan, look for USB settings, USB selective suspend setting, and change to disabled.
post #9323 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffins View Post

well i guess all of us who bought single rank kits made a huge mistake. now they're saying dual rank kits are better than single rank kits for ryzen rolleyes.gif dual rank 2400 is faster than 2666mhz single rank according to computerbase.de and dual rank 2666 is as fast as single rank 3200. even with 3200 having tighter timings rolleyes.gif

Hmm... seems kind of over exaggerated. Here's a test from legitreviews:

http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-ryzen-single-rank-versus-dual-rank-ddr4-memory-performance_192960/3

http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-ryzen-single-rank-versus-dual-rank-ddr4-memory-performance_192960/4
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post #9324 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by gupsterg View Post

5°C as number is low. When we view it as % vs another core it could be ~10% difference, which may seem more significant. Mine was not delided, nor on WC or AIO, just decent air.

Loaded ~8°C within current column, ~7°C within max column

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Idle variation lower.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Like I posted before my 1st R7 had less of a dimple in centre, my 2nd more. At the time I was using an Archon SB-E X2, this has a convex base and was less flatter than my recently acquired Archon IB-E X2. I forgot to take pics of each CPU/HSF base against metal ruler edge redface.gif . But definitely the flatter IB base makes better contact with my 2nd R7 compared with SB. As now TIM has been settling down I see improved temps compared with using SB. I plan to lap HSF base and CPU at some point.

There is post in my thread in sig, even if IHS soldered on a bad mount I had issues with stability on 2nd CPU and there was quite a bit of contact in centre between IHS/HSF.

Oh my thermal paste spread is PERFECT on my 1700x its how i know my temps are dead on where they should be.

My 5°C was on bare die (which has a HORRIBLE mount and decent mounting pressure, tested with pressure paper), however when i ran it delided it was like 1°C from hottest core to coolest core so it was perfect. Soldered is even better.
Edited by bluej511 - 4/14/17 at 12:54pm
    
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post #9325 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotstocks View Post

Can someone help out, I am really confused. Going from a 1700 which reported temperatures acurately in Asus and Hwinfo, I am having a nightmare with my 1800X
I am stress testing it with the hottest most demanding method, IBT maximum. To get 4Ghz stable I need 1.45v and LLC2. which I guess is kinda average, if anyone can suggest tweaks to get volts lower, great. Also using vsoc 1.125v , spread spectrum disabled, forget what else.. In any casee I have no FREAKING clue at what my real temperature is! I have a Corsair H100i for cooling with huge case airflow.
What I DON'T get is that Asus software and Hwinfo say my cpu is at 82-92C when stress testing, but CPU (Tdie) is 20C lower at 72C of course.
Now Corsair Link shows 86C cpu but 36.8C water pump temperature. There is NO WAY that those two numbers are that far apart, either the water is
a lot hotter than 36.8C or the cpu is a lot cooler than 86C. With a normal hsf, I would just touch it and know the temperature is ok or not, but with this AIO
I can't understand what my real cpu temp is and if it is safe for 24/7. And yes my block is seated with the thumb screws hand tightened very tight and Antec Formula 5 paste,
which is Arctic Silver 5.
Any help on understanding my real cpu and water temp would be appreciated. From what I gather, Ryzens just run hot and even stock 1700 with wraith cooler will hit 80-95C stress testing, so maybe I am worrying about nothing?

welcome to the club.
I don't know what's going on. My socket is always 5C hotter than the tctl, they are both jumping around like crazy and no sensor matches up with the other.
I have the H60 with two be quiet! fans on it and thermal grizzly paste....so it should just be cool. Sometimes it idles at 30 something C and sometimes it jumps between 42 and 65C and under load it either goes above 70 or it just remains around 60. When I turn my fans on full it gets hotter rather than cooler. If I get it to idle at 42C, then try to cool it even more, it starts fluctuating. Something is really off with the temp sensors.

Plus: Auto-calibrating the fans with Suite 3 just stops all fans and water pump and overheats the system if you don't pull the plug. Hope someone who knows more about the architecture of this board and the software looks into this. Because we don't have stable values at all. Not even in the bios itself.
post #9326 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeltPC View Post

Another suggestion if you are still having the issue, you might look at the options under your power plan, look for USB settings, USB selective suspend setting, and change to disabled.
I've tried that too, doesn't make a difference :/
post #9327 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

Oh my thermal paste spread is PERFECT on my 1700x its how i know my temps are dead on where they should be.

My 5°C was on bare die (which has a HORRIBLE mount and decent mounting pressure, tested with pressure paper), however when i ran it delided it was like 1°C from hottest core to coolest core so it was perfect. Soldered is even better.

Sweet thumb.gif , perfection is hard to aspire to, hopefully I will get there wink.gif .
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XPS - R7 1700
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post #9328 of 17055
Quote:
Originally Posted by r4m0n View Post

It doesn't matter, WHEA errors isn't something you can accidentally trigger in software, no matter how badly it's written. If RB is showing you WHEA errors, there's some level of instability on your system.

Since when is not compatible bad written? It could be it's approaching the CPU different..nobody is saying its bad or not. Most of other applications did have a update for ryzen.. So it's not weird that RB maybe need that also..
post #9329 of 17055
thanks. i figured as much. after reading legitreviews it appears both are pretty damn similar with 1t and 2t being the biggest difference. i need to lay off these reviews. so many are contradictory to one another it just leads to more confusion.
post #9330 of 17055
On the subject of cooling system fan control

Excluding liquid nitrogen systems and ice bucket heat exchangers, all heat removed from the CPU via the cooling system is ultimately moved to the air using fans blowing air against fins. The heat gets to the fins via a fluid (water, heat pipe fill, or phonons). Until the heat gets to the fins, it is not removed. If a step change in power occurs in the CPU, the temperature will rise according to the local effective thermal mass and thermally conductive paths. As the temperature rises, more heat will flow to the CPU lid, thence to the thermal paste, cooling system thermal block, etc., as determined by differential temperatures and thermal resistances.

It is appropriate in these cases to control the cooling system fan in proportion to the heat entering the cooler, manifested in water temperature rise, thermal block temperature rise, fin temperature, or even air temperature downstream of the fins (in this case the fans have to always run). Fan control loops can be constructed to increase air flow in proportion to the measured increase in temperature.

If I were intending to run my PC 24/7 unattended and had observed or read about an unintended shutdown of the CPU cooling system fan when controlled by the BIOS, as has been reported here, I would never trust the BIOS until I knew it had been corrected. (I've never had that happen on older PCs.*) Surviving unplanned fan shut down requires an adequately safe CPU thermal shutdown, which has also been questioned on this thread. To avoid these issues, I would instead decide on a measurement point that measured heat flow into the cooling system, and either build or buy a fan controller that I considered reliable. Hence, in my view, controlling the heat exchanger fan by measuring water temperature in water cooling loops is eminently reasonable, even without the hot GPU argument.

*DFI LanParty boards once had a different issue where the fan headers were somewhat underpowered, as I recall. Using another means of fan control or buffering the header power were approaches that could be applied.
     
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