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ROG Crosshair VI overclocking thread - Page 959

post #9581 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karpata View Post

Alright so I just finally finished my new build and the first thing I did was try to install the lates BIOS update because I heard about all the self bricking C6Hs so I downloaded it from the Asus Support page (v1002) and started the EZ Flash tool in the UEFI. The update went trough with no problems and then it said. "Update complete. Resetting System" or something I loosely translated this from german. So after the reboot nothing worked anymore. I can boot normally but I get a blackscreen and the display says No cable/signal detected. Also the USB ports no longer seem to work. Mouse and Keyboard no longer light up and I went through all the USB ports. The Q Code only showed an 8 with the second LED off. Since then I tried several suggestions such as USB flash with the BIOS on the CD and currently I have the 902 from the website. After clearing CMOS it now kind of starts to boot because now it at least goes through the colored LEDs below the Digits and it eventually always gets stuck on the white GPU LED. But I know there is no problem with my GPU because it worked before the update unless the board somehow bricked my GPU aswell (I'm gonna be so mad if it did). It goes through all the Q Codes but eventually goes to 00 with the white LED still on so appearently there is something wrong with the PCI of the GPU. At least that's what I think. The USBs still don't work because the mouse and keyboard still don't even light up.

Any other suggestions? Is there even hope left? I'm starting to get really frustraded...

EDIT: Here are the parts I'm using just in case:
PSU: EVGA Supernova 850
MB: C6H
GPU: ASUS 1080Ti Founders Edition with EVGA Waterblock
CPU: Ryzen 1700 with EVGA Waterblock
Case: Coolermaster Master Case Maker 5
RAM: 2x Corsair Vengeance 3200 8GB

902 is fine as a BIOS it WONT brick. Unplug and replug everything, reseat the gpu, unplug your power and remove the battery leave it out for a min or so. Then plug everything back, plug in power and wait a min before you power it on. See if it gets you past the white LED. Might be that your cpu/cooler isnt seating correctly to begin with not sure.
    
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R7 1700X asus crosshair 6 Sapphire R9 390 Nitro CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool GPX r9 390 m01 alphacool xt45 240 Alphacool xt45 360 Alphacool D5 PWM 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
R7 1700X asus crosshair 6 Sapphire R9 390 Nitro CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Kingston HyperX 3K Seagate ST2000DM006 EKWB Supremacy Evo EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 - Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool GPX r9 390 m01 alphacool xt45 240 Alphacool xt45 360 Alphacool D5 PWM 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 29UM68 Corsair Strafe Corsair RM1000 
CaseMouseMouse Pad
Thermaltake X5 Corsair M65 Pro RGB Razer Goliathus Speed 
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post #9582 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

902 is fine as a BIOS it WONT brick. Unplug and replug everything, reseat the gpu, unplug your power and remove the battery leave it out for a min or so. Then plug everything back, plug in power and wait a min before you power it on. See if it gets you past the white LED. Might be that your cpu/cooler isnt seating correctly to begin with not sure.

I doubt that this will help because I literally did not touch any parts inside the PC since the update but I will try it anyways.
post #9583 of 16719
Hey folks,

So I've been playing with my 1800X the last couple of days trying to find a stable setup for 4 GHz by not using more than 1,35V at full load, which has failed.
Seems 4 GHz is a massive wall, perhaps a crappy CPU. frown.gif

I've decided to stick with 3,9GHz and I just passed an IBT High run (finally) with these settings:
BIOS: 0081

Extreme Tweaker:



Tweaker's Paradise:


Digi+ Power Control:



Custom Core Pstates:


So by looking at HWiNFO voltages, it reported the following during this IBT High run:

CPU Core Voltage (SVI2 TFN): 1,287 (at load), 1,381 (at idle)
SOC Voltage (SV2 TFN): 0,962 (at load), 0,975 (at idle)

Would you folks consider this safe settings and voltages for 24/7 use on air?
Also I'm nervous about the LLC1 since the consensus seems to be not to use LLC any longer.
Also, is it worth experimenting with VRM Switching Frequency?

Hardware:
Mainboard: Asus Crosshair VI Hero (obviously)
CPU: Ryzen 1800X
RAM: G.skill F4-3600C16D-16GTZR
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
Chassis: NZXT H440
Fans: All Noctua
post #9584 of 16719
Will 3600 MHz + memory speeds get proper subtimings that dont crash instantly in next bios revisions?

Tried it a few times, now I cant set default audio device on my windows install due to registry corruption. lol
post #9585 of 16719
So... I have a 1800x on water which after a few weeks blew one of my Petg piping out of g1/4 fitting when I wasn't around. When I saw the CH6 it was displaying q-code 8. I powered off system and repaired but the acrylic waterblock was leaking. when I was removing waterblock I noticed the g1/4 fitting was really hard to remove and thermal paste looked like it had seen some extreme heat.

My question is; Any chance of the 1800x CPU still being good? I am not sure how the thermal limit works on the chip and if it protected itself when it realized it wasn't getting cooling.

It is probably my fault for trying to get fancy with RGB g1/4 fittings and using extra turns including a 180 turn after the pump so that their was more glowing piping showing. The pump speed was halfway but apparently I left too much room for the Petg to flex and work its way out of the fitting.

I really hoping I don't have to drop another 500 on a CPU
post #9586 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by skullbringer View Post

Will 3600 MHz + memory speeds get proper subtimings that dont crash instantly in next bios revisions?

Tried it a few times, now I cant set default audio device on my windows install due to registry corruption. lol


This depends on what AMD does with the AGESA microcode. All of this stuff is limited/locked at present.
post #9587 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

902 is fine as a BIOS it WONT brick. Unplug and replug everything, reseat the gpu, unplug your power and remove the battery leave it out for a min or so. Then plug everything back, plug in power and wait a min before you power it on. See if it gets you past the white LED. Might be that your cpu/cooler isnt seating correctly to begin with not sure.

You're a wizard Harry! I actually got past the white LED but now it's stuck on the green Boot LED with code 64.

EDIT: Keyboard also lights up now but still no signal because as said stuck on Boot LED
post #9588 of 16719
Hi

I have been out if the loop due to my job.

Could someone please help me out with the following questions:

Is it recommended to set " Sense Mi Skew" to enabled it just leave it to auto - and what does it actually do?

Why do ppl recommend not to use LLC ? I use LLC 3 and it won't shoot voltage over 1.43v


Thx


Gesendet von meinem SM-G930F mit Tapatalk
post #9589 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by newguyagain View Post

Is it recommended to set " Sense Mi Skew" to enabled it just leave it to auto - and what does it actually do?

Why do ppl recommend not to use LLC ? I use LLC 3 and it won't shoot voltage over 1.43v

Leave it on auto, should detect your CPU.

LLC has the disadvantage to stress the VRMs more, leave it on auto, increase VCore or decrease frequency until stable is the best option for 24/7 use.
post #9590 of 16719
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoBeers View Post

Leave it on auto, should detect your CPU.

LLC has the disadvantage to stress the VRMs more, leave it on auto, increase VCore or decrease frequency until stable is the best option for 24/7 use.

Software monitors also aren't fast enough to show the spikes above set voltage when using higher levels of LLC. You need a high rate DMM or oscilloscope for that.

its ultimately up to each individual either way to use or not to use.
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