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Ryzen 1800x with Nofan's CR-95C passive cpu cooler - Page 2

post #11 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decoman View Post

I reapplied the TIM onto the Asus ROG R480 card, because I feared the old TIM I had used previously had become too hard. The newly purchased TIM seem more fluid than my 4-5 year old TIM I had in storage. I wish the syringe was better, because I have a little difficulty putting down the lol ideal blob of thermal paste.



This Rx480 card had existing thermal pads in place, and I hope repeated re-seatings of the cooler won't lessen the effect of the thermal pads. Unsure.

As I hold this Rx480 in my hand, I think I can see the offset screws for the four screws around the GPU core, though, it looks like the four screws aren't as tight against the PCB as they maybe should be. The four screws does not seem to stop against the stand off's which the screws go into. The screws won't go further in though. Either this is all very delicate, or maybe a washer on each screw would help the cooler fit more tightly against the GPU core. *shrugs* This isn't something I know much about.

That does not look like enough TIM at all IMO. Keep in mind GPU dies are naked and the WHOLE thing needs even coverage - its not an IHS with a much smaller die underneath that can get away with a rice grain sized line. That application pictured looks like it will not spread to all 4 corners of the bare die, which will cause overheating and instability issues.

For GPU's, I usually use the "Spread" method with a plastic card or razor blade to get a thin, even coating. For CPUs, I use the line in the center (depending on the CPU model) and let it spread.

May be worth pulling the CPU cooler to check your TIM pattern - willing to bet its not covering the whole die smile.gif.
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post #12 of 56
Thread Starter 
Hm, I thought so as well. smile.gif I am really curious as to how the TIM spread out this time on the CPU.

Another re-seating of the cooler then. smile.gif

In other news: Cablemods has shipped my cables, est. arrival, about a week.
post #13 of 56
Thread Starter 
Note: My ramsticks still hasn't shipped. Estimated time of shipping being 10 days, or even more if there is an additional delay.

Hm, well. I had a look at the gfx card, again. And it seems my amount of TIM was just about right, with a miniscule amount of TIM spilling over, hardly noticeable. smile.gif

Now, this had me thinking, I should maybe try get some new thermal pad, as the existing one might not be the best, and, by the looks of it, the existing thermal pad seem to maybe have been put on wrong, as the thermal pad doesn't cover the heatsink properly.

Before:


After: (I want to try the "credit card" method for my final re-seating, while also applying a new thermal pad)


The other stuff:


Notice how the thermal pad doesn't cover the heatsink properly, and one can see how the pad isn't fully covering the things it is suppose to connect to.

This particular thermal pad on my Rx480 is measuring 22mm wide (but the pad is uneven in width), 180mm long, and being about 1.5mm high. It looks to me that a thermal pad of 100mm length would fit. The heatsink over the pad on the cooler is about 22mm wide and about 107,5mm long.

Edit: Hrm, I am having difficulty finding an over-performing thermal pad with the dimensions required. 15mm width is too short. I need something like 20mm width.
So, the following product seems to have the wrong dimensions:

https://www.frozencpu.com/products/17502/thr-186/Fujipoly_ModRight_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_Blister_Pack_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_15_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html (supposedly 17W/mK)

I found these other two with the proper dimensions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-Pad-8-20x-120x-20-mm-/142324187577 (supposedly 7W/mK)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phobya-1-5MM-Warmeleitpad-XT-120x20mm-7W-mk-CPU-GPU-RAM-ThermalPad-/121159895984 (supposedly 8W/mK)

Update: I ordered the phobya pad. It has the correct thickness and proper width and depth.
Edited by Decoman - 4/16/17 at 7:33am
post #14 of 56
Thread Starter 
I received the Phobya thermal pad I ordered, and it seems that was a mistake, as the 1.5mm thick Phobya thermal pad is hardly flexing, not at all as soft as the pad that came with the card. Using pliers on a left over piece, the plier hardly makes a dent. frown.gif This pad seems totally useless, but I am no expert.

I think using the Phobya thermal pad here was probably a mistake. I will keep the old thermal pad around in case I need to re-use it later.

Also, rumor is that the two screws that fasten the cooler to the vrm area, had loose springs. I don't recall ever having seen those springs, and if there were, they are surely lost by now. I have solicited Asus to send me replacement parts.

Update: I am now testing the Rx480 card on my current computer, to try get to see if the vrm temps are good or not. I am using HWinfo64 and running gpu-z with "render test" to get an idea of the vrm temps. After a few minutes of "render test" in gpu-z, the vrm temps seem to be about 79 deg C. GPU temp seem to be about 64 deg C.

Update2: Playing Arma3 and Civ5, max vrm temps seem to be 84 deg C.

Update3: I heh, reseated the cooler, yet again. This time, I reapplied the old yellow thermal pad, which is super soft. I also, added some custom washes, to make the screws tighten on better (just a temporary thing, might be a fire hazard for all I know). Starting out at 58 deg C, running "render test" in cpu-z. Now 63 deg C as I play Arma 3. Seems cooler than before. :| Highest vrm temp was 67 deg C.

Final remark: Well, heh, putting back the old yellow thermal pad, and adding washers to the vrm screws, made the vrm's nearly 20 deg C cooler. :| Now, I should have to find some washers in metal, so that the styrene (plastic) ones I use, don't turn my computer into a bonfire one day. smile.gif
Edited by Decoman - 4/21/17 at 2:10pm
post #15 of 56
Thread Starter 
I received my ram sticks today, and it was quickly clear that I really have to cut down the height of the heatsink on these sticks, in order to have them fit under the CR-95C cooler.

I haven't checked yet, but this is what it looks after cutting the length down to about 3.7cm.



Update: Nope! Not enough. Must shave off another mm. :| So far, it looks to me that I have to cut the heatsink down to 3.6cm.

I felt I had to use a power tool to get to this, just some hand held dremmel, with a small (and fragile) cutting disc. Not recommended. Don't try this at home kids!
What I learned is that I did not have to cut all the way through, so I could just wiggle the bits of metal until they snapped off. I also used a metal file to clean things up.
Edited by Decoman - 5/2/17 at 7:31am
post #16 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decoman View Post

I received my ram sticks today, and it was quickly clear that I really have to cut down the height of the heatsink on these sticks, in order to have them fit under the CR-95C cooler.

I haven't checked yet, but this is what it looks after cutting the length down to about 3.7cm.


Why not remove the heatsinks completely, they're pretty much pointless, should save you a lot of space.

Btw your TIM spread for the cpu looks pretty thick (won't function too good), your mounting pressure must be very low.
    
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post #17 of 56
Thread Starter 
I don't know how to remove the heatsinks, and I've sort of read that it might be difficult (as in damaging the components underneath).

I thought I'd keep the heatsink on to try retain any cooling effect.



I cant be bothered shaving off a millimeter at a time, so I'll cut it all down to 3.4cm.



I made sure to try keep the ram stick as clean as I could, but there may be some metal particles stuck on the presumably adhesive tape/pad seen inside.

Update: Ah, great! Having placed this one ram stick onto the Crosshair VI Hero board, I can see that here is about 2mm gap between the top of the ramstick, and the passive CR-95C cooler. Looks like I am getting somewhere now.
Edited by Decoman - 5/2/17 at 8:32am
post #18 of 56
Thread Starter 
I used a black marker pen to cover the bare metal on the sticks. smile.gif




Finished! smile.gif



Aaaaah, this was more annoying than I thought it would be. Heh, I said I used a power tool, but I mostly used the saw depicted earlier in this thread, and it worked but not too smoothly.
Edited by Decoman - 5/2/17 at 9:20am
post #19 of 56
Thread Starter 
I should be able to boot this thing once I connect it to my monitor.

I've also bought a VRM switch, to get to use two computers with the same screen, hopefully that will be all I ever wished for in that regard.

In the image below, I haven't mounted the three Artic F14 TC (temperature controlled) fans, because they are still being shippied, so I will use this Noctua fan for now.

I ran out of strips, so I couldn't fully tidy up the power cables/wires. I can do that later.


So to iterate, this computer has:

• A passive cpu cooler
• A fanless PSU
• An Asus Radeon Rx480 Strix Oc card, with fans that turn themselves when the temps are at "idle" level. Put into the "second" PCI-E slot, and I hope this works(!)
• What is missing there are three temperature controlled fans to be mounted on the far right side, with 400-1350 rpm.

Btw, I decided to sand down some of the fancy plastic on the motherboard, to try make sure I had a proper seating of the cooler. A visual inspection seem to indicate that the cooler is indeed mounted properly onto the cpu heat spreader.
Edited by Decoman - 5/2/17 at 10:54am
post #20 of 56
Thread Starter 
Well ****. The new Seasonic fanless PSU I bought has bad coil whine. frown.gif How does this even get past "quality assurance"?

Other than that, the machine seem to boot up just fine, and I've installed Win 10 (for gaming).

Temp at idle in bios, seem to be heh 80 deg C, though I suspect the temp is 60. Using bios 1002 atm iirc. I guess I have to tweak the sense skew if I figure out to do it.
Edited by Decoman - 5/2/17 at 2:36pm
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