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[Build log] The Fast Learner - CaseLabs SMA8 Sober Data science - Machine learning rig - Page 23

post #221 of 262
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Where are the prongs on the Mini Fit Jr terminals? Something just doesn't look right with the crimps or terminals are just not in focus when photos was taken.
The prongs are on the wire core only, not the insulation. So the wire cores are double crimped.

See below my issues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Be careful with the Iroda Micro term. That device is beyond cheap. I had one & it lasted all of five mins before it stopped working. Dremel multi tool is whole lot better & has a higher temps. Which in the end can melt sleeve allot faster.
0 issues so far, it's working quite well. I actually quite like that temps are lower so I can get good precision, and also I can melt heatshrink close to devices (fan, pump) without burning them.
If it breaks I'll buy the Dremel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Maybe it's due to blurry images, Some of the sleeving don't seem to be melted onto the terminals or melted at all.
Could be, those were my first ones
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

to Do double Crimps using molex terminal you need high walls. So far only JMT works correctly. There to many OEM brands to test them all. The terminals from MFC and such do not work. The walls are to low.
I never managed to crimp them properly with MDPC-x crimpers (I have both versions). Also, AWG16 and even AWG18 I have have OD that are not crazy large (I use Mod One wires), but I never managed to put 2 in one terminal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

My newish method does not require any kind of soldering what so every due to the crimp is well placed & holds the wire perfectly. The wire I'm using has an OD of 2.5.

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x-borosilicate-glass-tubing/720#post_26351755
which crimper do you use ?
My "Molex" terminals are from Amp/TE (Mate'n lok series), I don't know if JMT are massively different.

In any case my crimping + soldering resited pull test, so this will be good enough as far as I am concerned smile.gif
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post #222 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

The prongs are on the wire core only, not the insulation. So the wire cores are double crimped.

See below my issues
0 issues so far, it's working quite well. I actually quite like that temps are lower so I can get good precision, and also I can melt heatshrink close to devices (fan, pump) without burning them.
If it breaks I'll buy the Dremel
Could be, those were my first ones
I never managed to crimp them properly with MDPC-x crimpers (I have both versions). Also, AWG16 and even AWG18 I have have OD that are not crazy large (I use Mod One wires), but I never managed to put 2 in one terminal
which crimper do you use ?
My "Molex" terminals are from Amp/TE (Mate'n lok series), I don't know if JMT are massively different.

In any case my crimping + soldering resited pull test, so this will be good enough as far as I am concerned smile.gif

Dremel: There a switch which can go very low to very hot. It also have a hot kniife addon tip (which is great for sleeving cutting). You can very close to the connectors without burning them. The Dremel is my go to device since it also has other addon tips like soldering & such. I can use one device to cover a wide range of things. The therm does not create enough heat, a lighter burns hot then that device.


All my wire are from Mod-One 16 AWG.


It looked like you crushed the prongs with the crimper. Which can be done if you do not slide the terminal far enough to the outside.

----

I'm using CTX3 (newest), Didn't try TE Molex terminals due to the fact there to expensive (Gold Plated) for number I need to cover all my devices. It was something like 40 dollars for 30 terminals. Where I can get 100 terminals from JMT for 8 dollars. Maybe I'll revisit it when I do my molex cables.



Taken from my instagram account (Should give you an idea how large the JMT Molex terminal is. Not sure if you have any Molex terminals from Mod-One, it's a bit larger then those.


post #223 of 262
Thread Starter 
I see your double crimp, just never managed to do one myself including the isolation
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post #224 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

I see your double crimp, just never managed to do one myself including the isolation

You just have to create a method that will work, It may take some practice but it will work in time. If your interested I could create video & throw it up on youtube or Some other site.

I just created this snake style wire over the weekend. I used this to create my Quad Sata Cable.

post #225 of 262
I like your numbering. I did the similar but started with 'blank', one, two.
post #226 of 262
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

I like your numbering. I did the similar but started with 'blank', one, two.
Me too, blank is the missing one smile.gif
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post #227 of 262
Thread Starter 
Update
- I am sleeving, sleeving, sleeving, but things are moving...I am 4-5 cables away of having the full set (except power cables, but I'll make those as I go as I don't need them to start the PC, I can use the supplied ones)
- I hope that within 1-2 weeks, I should be able to start the loop
- the only part that remains a question mark is how I will build the loop air intake / exhaust. given the shape of my loop, I guess I would kind of need 2 : 1 from pump exhaust (to be able to pump water out), and 1 at the lower point (which is the entrance of the 560). Air intake would be on the highest point (top rad)


Questions :
- how do you test your loops ? do you test fractions of it, or do you mount the whole thing and do air testing ?
- leaks : I assume than when leaks happen, it's more on the thread side of things than on the barb / tube side of things ?
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post #228 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

Update
- I am sleeving, sleeving, sleeving, but things are moving...I am 4-5 cables away of having the full set (except power cables, but I'll make those as I go as I don't need them to start the PC, I can use the supplied ones)
- I hope that within 1-2 weeks, I should be able to start the loop
- the only part that remains a question mark is how I will build the loop air intake / exhaust. given the shape of my loop, I guess I would kind of need 2 : 1 from pump exhaust (to be able to pump water out), and 1 at the lower point (which is the entrance of the 560). Air intake would be on the highest point (top rad)


Questions :
- how do you test your loops ? do you test fractions of it, or do you mount the whole thing and do air testing ?
- leaks : I assume than when leaks happen, it's more on the thread side of things than on the barb / tube side of things ?

What do you mean with "testing"? Design, flowrate etc?
Leak testing is simple: you build the thing as carefully and thoroughly as you can, and you cross your fingers when filling/running it while keeping your hardware powered off and having all possible connections & fittings wrapped/covered in tissues (detailed guides in the water cooling section) biggrin.gif

Well, "ideally" you don't have leaks. The ones you have are purely related to how you build it (or DOA parts). Assuming no defective parts: AFAIK most leaks between blocks and fittings are caused by under-tightening or skewed screwed fittings. For soft tubing: under-tightening compression fitting (or over-tightening and damaging the fitting), for hard tubing: damaged o-rings because of sharp tube endings.

If you do everything according to the book (correct tightening, well cut and softened hard tubing, don't overstress any parts), you shouldn't have any leaks. But experience teaches me, no matter how careful you are, one still make mistakes - and that's generally not a big problem as long as you leak-test sufficiently and correct where necessary.

Good Luck! (and post some pictures of your cables, I'm curious!)
 
WIP: Project Void
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The Singularity
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WIP: Project Void
(11 items)
 
The Singularity
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Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
840 Pro Series 256 GB WD Black 3TB Windows 7 Pro x64 Dell U3415W 
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post #229 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

Update
- I am sleeving, sleeving, sleeving, but things are moving...I am 4-5 cables away of having the full set (except power cables, but I'll make those as I go as I don't need them to start the PC, I can use the supplied ones)
- I hope that within 1-2 weeks, I should be able to start the loop
- the only part that remains a question mark is how I will build the loop air intake / exhaust. given the shape of my loop, I guess I would kind of need 2 : 1 from pump exhaust (to be able to pump water out), and 1 at the lower point (which is the entrance of the 560). Air intake would be on the highest point (top rad)


Questions :
- how do you test your loops ? do you test fractions of it, or do you mount the whole thing and do air testing ?
- leaks : I assume than when leaks happen, it's more on the thread side of things than on the barb / tube side of things ?

you want it at the highest point possible, I have two radiators on the roof & install two manual exhaust on both.

----

Leaks can on almost any setup on any fittings on any side.

----

Testing on my end is done once everything is installed.


Also don't forget to install a drain/Drains.
post #230 of 262
Thread Starter 
By testing I mean checking the loop doesn't leak smile.gif

I realize I didn't use the right vocabulary :
- I plan to have 1 air intake as high as possible
- given the design of my loop, I guess I will need 2 drains
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