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post #51 of 80
No worries mate, thank you

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post #52 of 80
I have small drops sometimes to 1025mv for a few seconds.
Gpu-z looks normal
Is it a normal behaviour?
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post #53 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zipeldiablo View Post

I have small drops sometimes to 1025mv for a few seconds.
Gpu-z looks normal
Is it a normal behaviour?

Yes, it's normal, either power limiting or thermal throttling. redface.gif
    
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post #54 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Yes, it's normal, either power limiting or thermal throttling. redface.gif

With the waterblock i don't go higher than 62 degrees so...
Power limiting at 1031mv? :/
So i assume i need to flash my bios to stabilize this?
Was happy to get +160 but in ghost recon i was at 1860mhz only, so kinda disappointed biggrin.gif
Also it seems that the gpu ran at 1062mv (with some fluctuations but lower seems to be 093mv when playing ghost recon in 4k, i don't get it


ps : did another apply to adjust my curve and now i am at 1031 with proper oc, seems it wasn't applied before, hum i'm lost redface.gif
Edited by zipeldiablo - 5/6/17 at 4:29am
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post #55 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zipeldiablo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Yes, it's normal, either power limiting or thermal throttling. redface.gif

With the waterblock i don't go higher than 62 degrees so...
Power limiting at 1031mv? :/
So i assume i need to flash my bios to stabilize this?
Was happy to get +160 but in ghost recon i was at 1860mhz only, so kinda disappointed biggrin.gif
Also it seems that the gpu ran at 1062mv (with some fluctuations but lower seems to be 093mv when playing ghost recon in 4k, i don't get it


ps : did another apply to adjust my curve and now i am at 1031 with proper oc, seems it wasn't applied before, hum i'm lost redface.gif

To avoid power limiting you need to get your max overclock at 993mv or under. This is with the Asus BIOS which I get the best results from.

And with a waterblock you should be 50C or under for sure, might want to reapply the paste and check it's seated properly.

Or raise your pump and fan speeds higher, pump at say 75% is good, but if you're getting over 50C after you do something is wrong. redface.gif
    
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post #56 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

To avoid power limiting you need to get your max overclock at 993mv or under. This is with the Asus BIOS which I get the best results from.

And with a waterblock you should be 50C or under for sure, might want to reapply the paste and check it's seated properly.

Or raise your pump and fan speeds higher, pump at say 75% is good, but if you're getting over 50C after you do something is wrong. redface.gif

As long as temps doesn't exceed 70 degrees it's fine, i prefer less noise to better cooling biggrin.gif

with 993mv imo the overclock will be kinda low, at 1031mv i can only withstand 1987mhz, not that much already, and i need some horse power to play at 4k tongue.gif
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post #57 of 80
I have a 1080ti Strix OC, with max voltage at 1.093V, that said I don't know where to START when it comes to doing a custom voltage curve.

In your video, you talk about your highest clock at .993mv, how did you come up with that clock speed? Did you have to play around with the voltage curve at the .993mv to find the maximum clock?

What about after that, do you do the same thing with each point until you reach 1.093V, or do you simply just jump to the highest voltage.

This seems confusing to me because I don't know a starting point.
post #58 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by zipeldiablo View Post

With the waterblock i don't go higher than 62 degrees so...
Power limiting at 1031mv? :/
So i assume i need to flash my bios to stabilize this?
Was happy to get +160 but in ghost recon i was at 1860mhz only, so kinda disappointed biggrin.gif
Also it seems that the gpu ran at 1062mv (with some fluctuations but lower seems to be 093mv when playing ghost recon in 4k, i don't get it


ps : did another apply to adjust my curve and now i am at 1031 with proper oc, seems it wasn't applied before, hum i'm lost redface.gif

Hm, 60°C under water? That seems quite a lot, but OK it depends on the amount of cards (SLI??) and the setup of the loop. My system is rather manageable with only the CPU, MB VRMs and one GPU beeing cooled by 500mm² radiator footprint, so my GPU never exceeds 40°C.

A big THANK YOU @KedarWolf for this voltage curve tutorial, i didn't even know where to find the curve beforehand biggrin.gif



What i have found as a pretty relyable way for me to fine tune the curve is as follows:

Step 1: Finding out what is the lowest possible voltage for an overclock that already works stable!
  1. Power target and voltage sliders both fully maxed out to the right (whatever that might be for your card & bios)
  2. Temp. target is kinda irrelevant to me, since my card never gets anywhere near it. On air you might want to max it out though!
  3. Slowly increase +Core Clock, first go +50 or +25 with each step, if it crashes, go back and itterate smaller steps until you find the clocks that Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike Ultra run through without crashing or even studdering (which means a reset of the grafics driver)!
  4. Save that max. stable core overclock as a preset in MSI AB. Do this first step without oc'ing the ram yet, you'll do that later!
    (For my card, it was an offset of +50, resulting in a base clock of 1657MHz and a boost of 2050-2088 in the benches. Other cards will have other offsets, you have to check yours!).
  5. From this max. stable OC with just using the sliders, open the voltage curve. There will be a point from which on the rest is just a straight line. This point shows what max. boost your card will do with this setting, and how much volts it will be using for it. Write down that points mVolts and its MHz - close the curve!
  6. Now go back 10 to 15 MHz on the core clock slider and apply. Open the curve again. You should see almost the same curve as before, but lowered by a few MHz. The point above the mVolts you noted earlier has now a little less MHz.
  7. Go one point to the left (the next lower mVolt-setting) and rise it to the offset you first deemed max. stable with the sliders, and apply. All points to the right jump to the same MHz and form a line.
  8. You now forced the card to try these MHz with less voltage. Go and bench Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike to see if the MHz are still stable with the reduced voltage.
  9. If all benches are still stable and run through without any hickups, repeat from Step 1.6: Lower offset by a few MHz, go to the curve and pull up the next lower mVolts to the desired MHz offset.
  10. As soon as a settings does not run stable anymore, go back to the last step. You have found the LOWEST voltage, your card needs to hold those clocks!
  11. Save this setting in MSI AB as your base from where you will start finding the max. overclock your card can do!



Step 2: Finding out what is the highest possible overclock your card can achieve!
  1. Load the settings with the lowest stable voltages from the first step in MSI AB and apply.
  2. The first point on the "plateau" that extends to the right in a straight line is the max. boost your card will do atm, and we already know that this is the lowest voltage the card needs to hold these clocks, so there is no point in trying to raise this point to a higher MHz offset - it will not be stable!
  3. Go one point to the right, the next higher voltage setting, and raise it a few MHz. Note that you can increase the offset in 1MHz steps, the card will not! It only jumps in increments of about 10-13 MHz. So raise it 1-2 MHz, apply, and the point will either stay where it is on the MHz level, or jump up a few MHz. Increse the offset by 1-2 MHz and apply until the point snaps the next higher MHz level.
  4. While benching, your card should now reach that little bit higher boost clock. Check with all 3 benchmarks. Now, 4 things could happen:
    1. IF your card shows a "VOLTAGE" target hit, even though your v-slider is fully to the right, thats it. The max. voltage your bios allows was exceeded, and there is no point in trying it any further unless you get a bios or a voltage mod that allows for more volts. worriedsmiley.gif
    2. IF your card shows a "POWER" target hit, even though your p-slider is fully to the right, thats it. The max. power consumption allowed is exceeded, and there is no point in trying it any further unless yout get a bios that allows for a higher power consumption (and your phases can keep up the watts!). worriedsmiley.gif
    3. IF you neither get a power nor voltage warning, but the bench studders or crashes, there is still hope: go to the curve, lower the point that you just raised to its former level, and raise the point one to the right to the desired MHz and apply. You now force the card to run these MHz with the next voltage level. Repeat from Step 2.4.
    4. IF nothing bad happens and the card runs all benches stable with the higher clocks, hooray! These clocks run stable with these mVolt. And since we approached from the bottom, we already know it is also the lowest volts the card will need for these MHz. Save that setting!
  5. Now repeat from step 2.3. Of course, this will not go on forever! Rather sooner than later you will run into either a power or voltage limit, or into temp. problems on air. Besides hacked bioses or shuntmods, there is nothing you can do against running into power or voltage limits, but you will have achieved the max. OC your card can possibly do.


P.S.: Isit something on my side, or is the forum extremely slow today with updating pages etc.?
Edited by DisposableHero7 - 6/10/17 at 3:31am
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post #59 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisposableHero7 View Post

Hm, 60°C under water? That seems quite a lot, but OK it depends on the amount of cards (SLI??) and the setup of the loop. My system is rather manageable with only the CPU, MB VRMs and one GPU beeing cooled by 500mm² radiator footprint, so my GPU never exceeds 40°C.

My waterblock is connected to an ek-predator, so the temp is adjusted according to cpu temp, that's why it is a lot higher than it should be.
I could do some modifications to fix this but first i need a new case.
Thanks for all the details, much clearer now.
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post #60 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisposableHero7 View Post

Hm, 60°C under water? That seems quite a lot, but OK it depends on the amount of cards (SLI??) and the setup of the loop. My system is rather manageable with only the CPU, MB VRMs and one GPU beeing cooled by 500mm² radiator footprint, so my GPU never exceeds 40°C.

A big THANK YOU @KedarWolf for this voltage curve tutorial, i didn't even know where to find the curve beforehand biggrin.gif



What i have found as a pretty relyable way for me to fine tune the curve is as follows:

Step 1: Finding out what is the lowest possible voltage for an overclock that already works stable!
  1. Power target and voltage sliders both fully maxed out to the right (whatever that might be for your card & bios)
  2. Temp. target is kinda irrelevant to me, since my card never gets anywhere near it. On air you might want to max it out though!
  3. Slowly increase +Core Clock, first go +50 or +25 with each step, if it crashes, go back and itterate smaller steps until you find the clocks that Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike Ultra run through without crashing or even studdering (which means a reset of the grafics driver)!
  4. Save that max. stable core overclock as a preset in MSI AB. Do this first step without oc'ing the ram yet, you'll do that later!


    (For my card, it was an offset of +50, resulting in a base clock of 1657MHz and a boost of 2050-2088 in the benches. Other cards will have other offsets, you have to check yours!).
  5. From this max. stable OC with just using the sliders, open the voltage curve. There will be a point from which on the rest is just a straight line. This point shows what max. boost your card will do with this setting, and how much volts it will be using for it. Write down that points mVolts and its MHz - close the curve!
  6. Now go back 10 to 15 MHz on the core clock slider and apply. Open the curve again. You should see almost the same curve as before, but lowered by a few MHz. The point above the mVolts you noted earlier has now a little less MHz.
  7. Go one point to the left (the next lower mVolt-setting) and rise it to the offset you first deemed max. stable with the sliders, and apply. All points to the right jump to the same MHz and form a line.
  8. You now forced the card to try these MHz with less voltage. Go and bench Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike to see if the MHz are still stable with the reduced voltage.
  9. If all benches are still stable and run through without any hickups, repeat from Step 1.6: Lower offset by a few MHz, go to the curve and pull up the next lower mVolts to the desired MHz offset.
  10. As soon as a settings does not run stable anymore, go back to the last step. You have found the LOWEST voltage, your card needs to hold those clocks!
  11. Save this setting in MSI AB as your base from where you will start finding the max. overclock your card can do!



Step 2: Finding out what is the highest possible overclock your card can achieve!
  1. Load the settings with the lowest stable voltages from the first step in MSI AB and apply.
  2. The first point on the "plateau" that extends to the right in a straight line is the max. boost your card will do atm, and we already know that this is the lowest voltage the card needs to hold these clocks, so there is no point in trying to raise this point to a higher MHz offset - it will not be stable!
  3. Go one point to the right, the next higher voltage setting, and raise it a few MHz. Note that you can increase the offset in 1MHz steps, the card will not! It only jumps in increments of about 10-13 MHz. So raise it 1-2 MHz, apply, and the point will either stay where it is on the MHz level, or jump up a few MHz. Increse the offset by 1-2 MHz and apply until the point snaps the next higher MHz level.
  4. While benching, your card should now reach that little bit higher boost clock. Check with all 3 benchmarks. Now, 4 things could happen:
    1. IF your card shows a "VOLTAGE" target hit, even though your v-slider is fully to the right, thats it. The max. voltage your bios allows was exceeded, and there is no point in trying it any further unless you get a bios or a voltage mod that allows for more volts. worriedsmiley.gif
    2. IF your card shows a "POWER" target hit, even though your p-slider is fully to the right, thats it. The max. power consumption allowed is exceeded, and there is no point in trying it any further unless yout get a bios that allows for a higher power consumption (and your phases can keep up the watts!). worriedsmiley.gif
    3. IF you neither get a power nor voltage warning, but the bench studders or crashes, there is still hope: go to the curve, lower the point that you just raised to its former level, and raise the point one to the right to the desired MHz and apply. You now force the card to run these MHz with the next voltage level. Repeat from Step 2.4.
    4. IF nothing bad happens and the card runs all benches stable with the higher clocks, hooray! These clocks run stable with these mVolt. And since we approached from the bottom, we already know it is also the lowest volts the card will need for these MHz. Save that setting!
  5. Now repeat from step 2.3. Of course, this will not go on forever! Rather sooner than later you will run into either a power or voltage limit, or into temp. problems on air. Besides hacked bioses or shuntmods, there is nothing you can do against running into power or voltage limits, but you will have achieved the max. OC your card can possibly do.


P.S.: Isit something on my side, or is the forum extremely slow today with updating pages etc.?

Helpful info here, thanks!
Bertha
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Bertha
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