Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread - Page 238

post #2371 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGTom View Post

So I've been having issues with crashes during gaming with my Waterforce 1080Ti lately and I am at a loss on what the issue is.

I've checked the event viewer and it's a strictly a driver crash that we've all seen with unstable clocks. It's running at the stock OC profile with maxed Power Limit and a custom fan curve because otherwise it won't boost and the fan on this AIO unit won't budge past 33%. Temps are running around 50C. It even happens with frame limiting like Vsync.

I've never had a card that was not stable at stock clocks, let alone a card with this kind of cooling.

Any ideas?

Hi BIGTom,

You mention unstable clocks, what do you mean? Also what kind of PSU are you using? I had a similar issue with a 970, it was driving me mad as I couldn't solve the issue. Swapperd with a 980Ti and it went all good for a few months until it happened again. You won't believe it: in the end it was because a 8pin cable wasn't properly conncected to the card, causing it to crash whe power usage was at peak. Just chek your cables, you never know...
post #2372 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by SavantStrike View Post

I'd be happy to help. I just finished my first custom loop using 4 of these (I'm crazy).

I did a lot of digging and neither EK or Bits power make the block. I bought a bits power bridge I can't use to confirm this, so don't waste your money like I did.

Since there is no fancy bridge, to connect multiple cards you will need to use adjustable fittings or custom pieces of solid or flexible tube with Normal fittings. I went the adjustable fitting route as it's really nice looking and only costs 5-10 bucks a fitting. Two cards in series will only require a single fitting.

For fittings, I highly recommend the swiftech adjustable lok seal fittings. They use a locking nut in the middle of the fitting for both the medium and large lengths. They can handke a boat load of abuse without leaking (my setup with 6 of them held solid at 15 psi of pressure - what many radiators are rated at).

The medium is just the right length to do 2 slot card spacing (really one slot between blocks). The large is probably right for three slot and should handle 4 or 5 slots when extended) I'll take pictures of a spare medium when I get home of you'd like.

The picture you see here, I assembled all of the cards together outside the case and then dropped them in the PCIE slots, then I tightened the middle lock nuts on the fittings. I used 6 fittings because my blocks are set up in parallel.

You'll notice the last card doesn't have an Aorus logo. You can remove it with ahobby knife and take the screws that hold the header off. This will allow you to install the cards and piping separately, but if you do, make sure you pressure test with air first. I spent 40 minutes testing and had to re-Mount the header twice before I didn't have any leaks.


What is your compression fittings' ID, OD? Did aurus card's WB's sockets have enough clearance for those fittings?
post #2373 of 2421
Hi all,

I'm not sure if this will be of use to anyone or not, since I'm a novice at overclocking compared to most of you here. I just thought I'd let you know what tweaks have finally got my Aorus 1080Ti at a stable and (relatively) cool overclock giving me a 6 FPS boost in both benchmarking apps and actual gameplay.



The most important thing I learned: Almost ALL of my crashes along the way were coming from an unstable CPU overclock. I had not set my LLC correctly on an 8700k and most of my benchmarking runs in Superposition were crashing. My games were also crashing. I mistakenly assumed this was because I had got a bad 1080Ti in the hardware lottery. Not so; it was due to a botched CPU overclock the whole time!

So, tip number 1: Get your damn CPU overclock properly stable first, because it's an unstable CPU that will be crashing your benchmarks and games long before the GPU does. I finally learned how to set up a stable CPU overclock and tested it thoroughly with both Prime95 and IntelBurn. Lo and behold, no more crashes in my GPU benchmarks and games!



The next thing I did was to ensure that my GPU had the latest BIOS installed. This was version F3P at the time.



I then opened the card up, after reading through this forum, and replaced the crappy generic thermal paste over the core with a thin layer of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught. This immediately reduced my temps by a few (+/- 5) degrees at idle, but only 1 or 2 degrees under full load. I did not replace any of the thick thermal padding, only the grease over the core.

Note 1: The backplate (that copper X on the other side of the core) only has thermal padding around the core, so there's no need to open it up if you're only changing the paste over the core itself.

Note 2: Don't be intimidated about opening the card and replacing the thermal paste. It's much easier than you think and it's really hard to screw up. There are just a couple of screws to remove, plus 4 fan/LED connectors. It really was quick and simple.



Now that I had a stable CPU overclock, I put some time into learning more about the best way to overclock my GPU...

The curve + voltage offset. I had previously been trying to overclock my card the old way (only dragging sliders) and wasn't getting very far. This time I used Afterburner to first set a semi-aggressive fan profile for my card - from 30/30 up to 100/70 (30% at 30 degrees, up to 100% at 70 degrees).
Next I unlocked the voltage control, and dragged the voltage offset up to 100%.
Power and Temp sliders were then set to maximum (150% and 90 degrees respectively).
I then opened the curve editor (Ctrl + F), held down Ctrl and dragged my curve's final point up to +35.
Finally, I set the memory overclock to +300.

Now I ran Superposition at 2560x1440 for ten passes. Each time the benchmark was stable (not a single crash or hangup) and my core clock stayed at 2062 Mhz the whole time. There was NO throttling down, and no dips at all. It was stable the whole way through and my max temp was 62 degrees celcius. This was something I had never been able to achieve before.

I then tested the card in two games in which I had previously experienced crashes; ECHO and War for the Overworld. Both were running at max settings at 2560x1440, with DSR factor 2.00, plus a bunch of shaders using Reshade. This time there were no crashes and I saw a framerate boost of around 6 to 8 FPS across the board, compared to playing at stock speeds.

For ****s and giggles I then upped my overclock to +60 and +500 to the core and memory respectively, and it quickly locked my system up during a benchmark run! The funny thing is, while it was running, my core clock was still 2062 Mhz. So upping the core clock to that insane level made no real difference to performance.

I'm therefore more than happy with a stable 2062 Mhz and a 6 FPS gain.



Anyway, this info might help someone who, like me, is just a novice hobbyist and mistakenly believes they have a dud card. For me, it all came down to properly ensuring a stable CPU overclock first, then setting my GPU overclock using the core voltage offset and the curve editor.

i7-8700K overclocked to 4.9Ghz + 4.6Ghz Uncore.
Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 mobo.
32Gb 3000Mhz memory.
Aorus 1080Ti GPU.







Edited by Kerry000 - 11/26/17 at 1:22pm
post #2374 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiningmaple View Post

What is your compression fittings' ID, OD? Did aurus card's WB's sockets have enough clearance for those fittings?

I had to assemble all of the fittings outside the case. They are standard adjustable g1/4 extension fittings from swiftech.

The easiest way to install these is either to put the cards together outside the case or to remove the headers and install the fittings before re installing the headers.

I'm pretty sure I've tracked down acrylic bridges for these cards though. I'll post about that if my aliexpress order ever gets here.
Myrna
(4 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Threadripper 1920X Asrock X399 Taichi  Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080 TI 4 Way SLI Corsair Vengeance RGB 4x8GB 3466Mhz 
  hide details  
Reply
Myrna
(4 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Threadripper 1920X Asrock X399 Taichi  Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080 TI 4 Way SLI Corsair Vengeance RGB 4x8GB 3466Mhz 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2375 of 2421
Hi All,

I am curious about a certain connector on the PCB. It does not have anything plugged into it. (see attached)
Does anybody know its purpose?
post #2376 of 2421
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKeeper8901 View Post

Hi All,

I am curious about a certain connector on the PCB. It does not have anything plugged into it. (see attached)
Does anybody know its purpose?

That's either a fan or RGB header. It's probably a fan header though.
Myrna
(4 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Threadripper 1920X Asrock X399 Taichi  Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080 TI 4 Way SLI Corsair Vengeance RGB 4x8GB 3466Mhz 
  hide details  
Reply
Myrna
(4 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Threadripper 1920X Asrock X399 Taichi  Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080 TI 4 Way SLI Corsair Vengeance RGB 4x8GB 3466Mhz 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2377 of 2421
I think its a fan header, because on my wb edition i got a conector plugged in the second port... and i guess its for the rgb lights on the block.

I wonder if there exists a an adapter from this conector to a regular rgb, so i can connect a wire to asus mobo for synking it with rest rgbs
post #2378 of 2421
Hmmm okay. So i purchased this adapter which someone had posted on this forum. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EUZD854/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plugged that into the connector, and then plugged an NZXT FZ-140MM Fan to see if it would work, there was no luck, i was hoping to put a side fan in the side panel of my case to help exhaust the heat from the card directly.

Anyone else have any luck with trying this?

Update: I just realized that the fan i tried was only a 3 pin, i ordered a 4 pin fan to see if that will do the trick, will keep you updated.
Edited by TheKeeper8901 - 11/28/17 at 6:46am
post #2379 of 2421
I got the Xtreme edition, air cooled. Has anyone replaced the thermal paste on it? I have some Kryonaut paste that I used on my old 390X, it helped that card drop temps by 10-15C at load. Now I don't expect the same temp drops here, but has anyone tried to see if it's much better? My card currently runs at 2025/6150 under full load and doesn't go above 68-69C even after hours of gameplay.
Insanity 2.0
(16 items)
 
Insanity 1.0
(14 items)
 
Insanity 1.5
(9 items)
 
Reply
Insanity 2.0
(16 items)
 
Insanity 1.0
(14 items)
 
Insanity 1.5
(9 items)
 
Reply
post #2380 of 2421
You will not get big temp drop there mb 3c , your card ia already running cool.
Assuming that theese cards in a custom loop builds run at 40-45 c ,
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: NVIDIA
Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread