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Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread - Page 57

post #561 of 1064
So what does Newegg do for items out of stock? I got a feeling they're gonna say it's back ordered which is totally uncool in my book if they do. Simply because that means someone is totally out 750 bucks and I don't feel they should force an exchange in that particular case. I understand why they changed their policy, however I swore to myself I was done with newegg a few gpus back and have done amazon ever since but I was to impatient for my evga order and the aorus tempted me.

I'm ok with an exchange as long as I get one because I'd just sell it. But I got a feeling their gonna be ridiculous and say well sorry we're oos, and in that case I feel a refund is in order.
post #562 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by xentrox View Post

Actually, we both have the same case, same CPU cooler, same fans, same motherboard, same PSU, the only thing different between our builds is the RAM. But that is not why I RMAd. I RMA'd because this card is piping hot and starts stuttering once it gets up to 70 degrees. Not sure why Jesus Christ has to get involved here lol.

Let jesus take the wheel!! I kid, what are your ambient temps?

I had to rig extra active cooling just to cool the damn backplate lol. My latest creation, I strapped a single slot Quadro blower cooler with generous fujiploy padding and it seems to be getting the best results so far. There are 2 reasons the gigabyte backplate is so damn hot:
1. the massive copper coldplate for the core is also shared with the VRAM. You basically have the core temps being shared out across a larger surface area and dumping through the PCB via the GDDR5x chips.
2. Gigabyte is extremely aggressive with the padding for the backside, this means a significant amount of heat is being conducted to the backplate compared to other AIBs.

As hot as this card is though, it cannot compare to my old MSI AMD 290 Gaming. The backplate registered close to 90 degrees according to my infrared thermometer after I padded the VRAM with thermal putty.

I would strongly recommend you repaste the GPU, hell, even the act of re-seating the HS seems to yield temp gains because the HS has surprisingly good contact with the GPU die.
post #563 of 1064
I'm not having problems with temp and I am on a regular Aorus. Mine doesn't break 66C and that's with a fan profile not exceeding 80% usage on the fans.
post #564 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisposableHero7 View Post

Heya folks,

here is my first impression of the AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme.

I read alot about this card on several gaming/hardware sites and it seemd like a realy good performer. High clockrates and a good cooling solution, keeping the card at low temps and still silent at this. Finaly a friend of mine got the very same card and was realy happy with it, so the decision was made.

So i ordered mine 2 days ago via express delivery, got it today and was very stoked to try it out. Installation was easy, even though it is bigger than my already bulky EVGA GTX 1080 FTW. Luckily space is not an issue in my Coolermaster HAF-X case, lots of it in there rolleyes.gif

After a clean, fresh install of the drivers (removed the old ones with DDU and got the recent ones from NVIDIA - 381.89), it was time to start up some benchmarks to look what i would be able to achieve from this new beast. For reference i ran through several benchmarks with my old card just the day before.

The first benchmark i tried was "Superposition", the new fancy looking one from UNIGINE, the guys who made the well known "Heaven" and "Valley" benchmarks. And i was immediatly amazed: Out of the box the card ran @2015 MHz, rocking about 46 FPS average on the "1080p Extreme" preset of the Superposition benchmark. That is 50% more fps than my GTX 1080 FTW could push. specool.gif


This was very exciting ... for a few moments. After about 30 seconds, the clocks went down to about 1900 MHz. Temps where at ~62°C by then, when the benchmark started to suddenly go into slow motion and studdering. When the temps hit 69°C, the benchmak crashed and the grafics driver was reset. Ok, this can happen, so i fired it up again. Now it already started with 65°C and only ~1900MHz, frames where down to ~40fps at start and started to drop furher already. Again studdering occured and when the GPU reached 69°C it crashed again wth.gif

To make sure it wasn't a problem with the relativly new benchmark, i tried Heaven, Valley and 3DMark11 ... all with the same result. Starting off cold, the card pushed some serious frames, but in a matter of about 1 minute, clocks dropped to ~1900, temps rose to ~70°C and the applications crashed. nerdsmiley.png

Opening my case, i could see the fans spinning up when the card got warmer, so it was not a total failure of the fans per se. Besides that, temperatures of 70°C shouldn't bother a Pascal GP102 chip at all...

At this point i started googleing if others might have similar problems. Was i missing something etc.? And i found quite alot of people on different forums reporting similar problems ... great. I then installed the Gigabyte AORUS tool that enables the OC mode and also offers monitoring of the card. Starting it up, it was in "Gaming" mode, which is supposed to be the standard mode for this card. It offers two other presets and a manual OC setting that lets you individualy set different parameters of the card. I didn't care about the manual mode and stuck to the offered presets, OC-mode beeing the one boasting the impressive clock speeds that Gigabyte is advertising this card with. For testers, i switched the presets back and forth and then set it to "gaming"(normal) and tried the benchmarks again.

Same result as before, the benchmark starts off impressive, but very quickly the temps rose and the frames dropped until the bench crashed at 69°C again. When i set the card into OC-mode, any 3D-apllication, be it benchmarks or games, crash immediatly mad.gif

The only mode that keeps the card from crashing is the "Silent" (underclocked) mode that has the Founders Edition clock speeds. Strangly though, the card goes up to 79°C in this mode, besides having considerably lower clock speeds. After reading some more in the Gigabyte forums, i was guided to a bios update for the card - the newest F4 Bios supposedly adresses stability & cooling issues.

I got the F4 bios update (quite comfortable .exe) and applied it my card, without much luck. Somehow i could run the Superposition benchmark once on "gaming" mode, but other benchmarks and games still crashed after 1-2 minutes. Another run of Superposition benchmark then didn't make it through again.

When trying different games in the "silent" mode with FE clocks, the card performed as or sometimes even slower than my 1080 FTW and with temps between 75-80°C, depending on the game. This is very odd in itself, because even at FE clocks, the TI should be faster than a slighty overclocked regular 1080 like the EVGA FTW. This is not quite what i was expecting from a 880€ card. sozo.gif

Then i decided to do what had to be done ... RMA the card. I had already idled a bit, chatting with friends and filling out the RMA form of my retailer, then powered down my PC and was about to pull out the card from my case, when i seriously burned the tips of my index-, middle- and ringfinger on the backplate. It still was boiling hot after about 15 minutes idling in windows with just discord and a webformular opened. The card was WAY beyond the 45°C the Gigabyte monitoring tool showed just before i powered down the PC.


There is something seriously wrong with the cards bios, tempsensors or the cooling presets in general and it seems to affect alot of AORUS 1080 TI & Xtreme users - but than again not all, since my friend doesn't have any of the issues i am having. QA seems to be on vacation @ Gigabyte ....

I am now back on my old 1080 FTW writing this. Since monday is a national holiday here, i'll send the card back in to my retailer on tuesday and just hope that i'll get a working replacement without this issues. But this ofcourse means another 1-2 weeks of waiting. If the 2nd card behaves like that as well and doesn't run the "OC"-Setting reasonably cool and 100% stable, i'll go for a refund and switch the manufacturer ...
the cards are AWESOME, but their binning process is not. You just got a silicon that cant handle being an extreme. Your rma is the way to go. Sorry for the downtime but I bet your next sample is good. This issue has affect a few in here, but it isnt really common, your replacement should be good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Douse View Post

Yeah this one had a fan on it. Perhaps the cooling to the back plate is less in my case. These cards have been varying a bit with the application of TIM and pads.

Hey Slackaveli, did you just change the paste job on the core? What about all the pads? I have an excess of 1mm fujipoly extreme pads that I could use just not sure how thick its needs to be....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

the cards are AWESOME, but their binning process is not. You just got a silicon that cant handle being an extreme. Your rma is the way to go. Sorry for the downtime but I bet your next sample is good. This issue has affect a few in here, but it isnt really common, your replacement should be good.
yeah, extra pads is a good idea. i'd concentrate on the vram, it gets hot and can perform better if cooler. and that should be the right thickness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Why don't you just change the thermal paste instead of going through a PITA RMA and risk getting another crappily done paste job? This is something you can fix yourself.Your factory paste job is probably crappy compared to your friend who has a good paste job.
that's exactly what it is, im sure of it. I get how folks panic when they think their card may be bad, but at least follow through with what everyone else in the forum did to fix those things before rma'ing it. But maybe that's just me. 70c is not hot, either. thta's cool. But if that's not cool enough, of course you'll have to re-tim. we've been having to re-tim every gpu that ever comes out. At least I have been.
Edited by Slackaveli - 4/30/17 at 10:55am
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post #565 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Why don't you just change the thermal paste instead of going through a PITA RMA and risk getting another crappily done paste job? This is something you can fix yourself.Your factory paste job is probably crappy compared to your friend who has a good paste job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage79 View Post

So what does Newegg do for items out of stock? I got a feeling they're gonna say it's back ordered which is totally uncool in my book if they do. Simply because that means someone is totally out 750 bucks and I don't feel they should force an exchange in that particular case. I understand why they changed their policy, however I swore to myself I was done with newegg a few gpus back and have done amazon ever since but I was to impatient for my evga order and the aorus tempted me.

I'm ok with an exchange as long as I get one because I'd just sell it. But I got a feeling their gonna be ridiculous and say well sorry we're oos, and in that case I feel a refund is in order.
if they are out of stock than they should refund. These things are why i always use paypal, tbh. Good luck, brother.
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post #566 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by GNUster View Post

Meanwhile I put the card under water with an AIO Kraken X41 + G10 bracket and passive heat sinks on all relevant components (i.e., vram, capacitors, vrms and mosfets). All benchmarks (3dmark, Heaven, Superposition) run w/o a problem with 2100Mhz core clock and 6014 Mhz memory clock achieved by simply setting the power limit to 125%, core clock to +65 (no custom curve) and mem clock to +400 with Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6. For 24/7 gaming I just reduce the core clock offset by 5Mhz to +60 (while leaving the rest as above) and even my most demanding game, Mass Effect Andromeda, sits continuously at 2088 Mhz core clock while temps hit at most 55C after playing over an hour. Furthermore, I only used the F3 bios since it is better for oc'ing for the known reasons.

In summary, I'm done for the time being thumb.gif

Edit: Here the PCB with the heatsinks attached:


Edit 2: The radiator of the Kraken X41 is cooled with a single 140mm fan set to 800rpm. Increasing the fan speed, say to 1200rpm, keeps the card below 50C in all of the above scenarios.


Just because I see a lot of ppl having problems running their memory above 6000Mhz: I witnessed artifcats running Mass Effect Andromeda with 2088MHz core clock and 6014MHz mem clock when playing an hour or so, i.e., I had to lower the mem clock to 5691MHz to become 24/7 stable for Andromeda. The reason was simply the fact that I couldn't shed enough heat from the vram as I saw how hot it got despite heatsinks on it. Hence, what I did was adding thermal pads between vram and backplate, and covered most of the backplate with heat sinks. With that, my core temp drops another ~5-7C in Andromeda and my vram stays cool enough that I can run the game with 2088/6014 stable w/o any glitch.
Edited by GNUster - 4/30/17 at 11:29am
post #567 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by GNUster View Post

Just because I see a lot of ppl having problems running their memory above 6000Mhz: I witnessed artifcats running Mass Effect Andromeda with 2088MHz core clock and 6014MHz mem clock when playing an hour or so, i.e., I had to lower the mem clock to 5691MHz to become 24/7 stable for Andromeda. The reason was simply the fact that I couldn't shed enough heat from the vram as I saw how hot it got despite heatsinks on it. Hence, what I did was adding thermal pads between vram and backplate, and covered most of the backplate with heat sinks. With that, my core temp drops another ~5-7C in Andromeda and my vram stays cool enough that I can run the game with 2088/6014 stable w/o any glitch.
yep. just getting all that heat to the backplate is only half the battle. dissipation of all that heat is next. doing both greatly improves temps. Basically, that plus a repaste ties/beats an AIO cooler.
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post #568 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post


if they are out of stock than they should refund. These things are why i always use paypal, tbh. Good luck, brother.

Yea man, I always typically do also but for some reason I didn't here and I think it was because the day when I was tryin to catch the stock I was frantically tryin to get my order in lol but yea paypal is always the way to go.

I just hope they make it simple as all, and chances are when I return this the Aorus won't be In Stock as it's pretty random so far.

If my ftw3 stutters also I'll at least know then that the issue Is on my end, so that's why I'm dying to get it and see
post #569 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by c0ld View Post

I'm not having problems with temp and I am on a regular Aorus. Mine doesn't break 66C and that's with a fan profile not exceeding 80% usage on the fans.
So far from what I've read on this thread and reddit etc, it seems the regular Aorus has less issues compared to the extreme. However, it may be attributed to the lesser sample size of regular Aorus userbase.

Will be putting in my regular Aorus tomorrow, testing & re-pasting. Hope I have the same good luck as you
Edited by dude0014 - 4/30/17 at 12:40pm
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post #570 of 1064
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage79 View Post

Yea man, I always typically do also but for some reason I didn't here and I think it was because the day when I was tryin to catch the stock I was frantically tryin to get my order in lol but yea paypal is always the way to go.

I just hope they make it simple as all, and chances are when I return this the Aorus won't be In Stock as it's pretty random so far.

If my ftw3 stutters also I'll at least know then that the issue Is on my end, so that's why I'm dying to get it and see
yeah, it would be driving me crazy.

I totally get how hard it is to check out in 5 seconds when these things were coming i/out of stock in less than a minute like they were. I had my paypal already logged in and had decided on my shipping options, etc, and I still almost botched it. It's hard!
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