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Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread - Page 62

post #611 of 1165
My quick review: Aorus 1080 Ti (non-extreme)

Boosted to 1999 Mhz core clock out of the box. Worked with the voltage curve (which for some reason is harder to work with in this card than my old 1080 Amp! Extreme). Managed stable @ 2062 Mhz initially.
Load temps with heaven benchmark running for 15 mins peaked at 60C @ 100% fan speed

Now the fun part as I promised earlier. Opened the card and applied CLU on the GPU die (liquid metal - Coollaboratory Liquid ultra). Assembled it back very carefully. The main worry I had was the thermal pads for the VRAMs etc, as they looked like they could fall off any second.

Ran heaven bechmark again. Now the votage curve re-adjusted itself. (Why?)
Managed stable 2075 Mhz stable @ 1075 mv (downclocks from 2088 within a minute or so)

The temps post CLU application? - Heaven benchmark running for 15 mins peaked at 55C @ 100% fan speed (with a slightly higher GPU clock speed)

This is a link to my Valid Timespy result http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1681239#
Could probably aim for a higher result with some more tweaking, but I'm done for the day.

Extra thoughts: I can conclude, from reading the reviews on Newegg, reddit & posts on this thread, along with my experience, that the Aorus 1080 Ti Non-Extreme seems to have significantly less issues and overall better chips than the more expensive Aorus extreme 1080 Ti

Future project: Will stick an AIO cooler on the copper part of the backplate and see if it helps..will update later
Edited by dude0014 - 5/2/17 at 12:25pm
My Rig
(15 items)
 
Wife's Rig
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6700k (delidded) @ 4.6 Ghz Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti (order) Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 850 500 GB M.2  Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB SSD Seagate 2TB HDD Corsair Hydro Series H110i 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Pro Asus ROG SWIFT PG348Q 34" @ 100 Hz Corsair STRAFE Mechanical EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 
CaseMouseAudio
Fractal Design Define R5 Logitech G9x Creative Sound Blaster Z 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k @ 4.5 GHz (delidded) AsRock Extreme 4 Asus 780 Ti DC2 @ 1241/1900 OC Corsair Vengeance 16 GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung EVO 500 GB SSD WD 1 TB HD Corsair Hydro H75 Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Corsair GS700 SilentiumPC PAX M70 
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My Rig
(15 items)
 
Wife's Rig
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6700k (delidded) @ 4.6 Ghz Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti (order) Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 850 500 GB M.2  Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB SSD Seagate 2TB HDD Corsair Hydro Series H110i 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Pro Asus ROG SWIFT PG348Q 34" @ 100 Hz Corsair STRAFE Mechanical EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 
CaseMouseAudio
Fractal Design Define R5 Logitech G9x Creative Sound Blaster Z 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k @ 4.5 GHz (delidded) AsRock Extreme 4 Asus 780 Ti DC2 @ 1241/1900 OC Corsair Vengeance 16 GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung EVO 500 GB SSD WD 1 TB HD Corsair Hydro H75 Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Corsair GS700 SilentiumPC PAX M70 
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post #612 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude0014 View Post


[...]

Extra thoughts: I can conclude, from reading the reviews on Newegg, reddit & posts on this thread, along with my experience, that the Aorus 1080 Ti Non-Extreme seems to have significantly less issues and overall better chips than the more expensive Aorus extreme 1080 Ti

[...]

Wait for it ... in a couple of month Gigabyte will have it figured out ... someone sabotaged the gauntled cherrypicking process at Gigabyte so that all the good chips landed on non-extreme and all the bad chips on the Xtreme cards lachen.gif

I dropped my Xtreme off at the post office this morning, should be at my retailer tomorrow.
I'm realy curious if my replacement card will do any better ...
Black Adder
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core I7 6700K ASUS ROG Maximus VIII HERO Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C16D-16GTZ 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C16D-16GTZ Samsung NVMe 950Pro M.2 512 GB Samsung SATA 840 Pro RAID Seagate ST2000DM001-1CH164 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung HD103SJ Samsung HD103UJ LG BDDVDRW CH10LS28 Corsair H110 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64 LG Flatron IPS236 Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum Corsair AX860 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
CoolerMaster HAF-X Rapoo VPRO V900 Laser Gaming Mouse CIG / RSI Anvil MousePad ASUS SupremeFX 2015 (OnBoard) 
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Black Adder
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core I7 6700K ASUS ROG Maximus VIII HERO Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C16D-16GTZ 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C16D-16GTZ Samsung NVMe 950Pro M.2 512 GB Samsung SATA 840 Pro RAID Seagate ST2000DM001-1CH164 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung HD103SJ Samsung HD103UJ LG BDDVDRW CH10LS28 Corsair H110 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64 LG Flatron IPS236 Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum Corsair AX860 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
CoolerMaster HAF-X Rapoo VPRO V900 Laser Gaming Mouse CIG / RSI Anvil MousePad ASUS SupremeFX 2015 (OnBoard) 
AudioAudio
AKG K702 Antlion ModMic v4 
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post #613 of 1165
Thread Starter 
So I picked up a Kill-A-Watt since they are so cheap and I am interested in how many watts my computer puts out. With a 6700k @ 1.38v & 4.7Ghz, G.Skill Trident Z 3400Mhz RAM @ 1.65v and my Aorus @ 1.00v & 2050 my max power draw during SuperPosition 4k was 467w. I was thinking it would be higher than that considering I'm running two D5 pumps, 14 radiator fans, and one case fan for exhaust.

post #614 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisposableHero7 View Post

Wait for it ... in a couple of month Gigabyte will have it figured out ... someone sabotaged the gauntled cherrypicking process at Gigabyte so that all the good chips landed on non-extreme and all the bad chips on the Xtreme cards lachen.gif

I dropped my Xtreme off at the post office this morning, should be at my retailer tomorrow.
I'm realy curious if my replacement card will do any better ...
hilarious. as i have non extreme and its a 2076+ card all day. tongue.gif
post #615 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

hilarious. as i have non extreme and its a 2076+ card all day. tongue.gif

Slackavelli,

My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.

I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?

Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.

Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.

Cheers!
Edited by satinghostrider - 5/2/17 at 8:29pm
post #616 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by satinghostrider View Post

Slackavelli,

My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.

I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?

Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.

Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.

Cheers!

Lower temps does a couple of things
1. NVIDIA's 3.0 boost will give you another 13mhz on the bin with every 5 degree drop
2. More stability, you may find you gain one or two more bins of clocks. At least with my card, I gained 26mhz of stability by going from 70 degrees - 60 degrees.
3. Lower power consumption, at the full 1093mv, I dropped something like 5-10W of power consumption going from 70-60 degrees. This means less power throttling.

As for the thermal pads, Gigabyte use 1mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for the VRMs. You will need 2-3mm for backside cooling. As far as I can tell, the only pads really worth changing are the VRAM pads. You will likely gain a little bit of Mem OC but given how much Fujiploy costs, I don't think its worth it. Its definitely not worth it to fujiploy the VRMs, they are already overkill cooled.

I just used cheap thermal putty for the backside cooling. Imma experiment with using Fujiploy or a copper shim for the central copper core padding to see if that drops the core temps by another 2-3 degrees but a large sheet of fujiploy in Australia costs like close to $100 so at this rate, it might be better for me to get a waterblock and watercool.
Edited by Dasboogieman - 5/2/17 at 8:43pm
post #617 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by satinghostrider View Post

Slackavelli,

My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.

I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?

Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.

Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.

Cheers!
yeah, man, you gain the 13mhz or 26 mhz you lose when downclocking due to voltage. wont push your max clocks, but helps sustained clocks. as well as gpu life.
post #618 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasboogieman View Post

Lower temps does a couple of things
1. NVIDIA's 3.0 boost will give you another 13mhz on the bin with every 5 degree drop
2. More stability, you may find you gain one or two more bins of clocks. At least with my card, I gained 26mhz of stability by going from 70 degrees - 60 degrees.
3. Lower power consumption, at the full 1093mv, I dropped something like 5-10W of power consumption going from 70-60 degrees. This means less power throttling.

As for the thermal pads, Gigabyte use 1mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for the VRMs. You will need 2-3mm for backside cooling. As far as I can tell, the only pads really worth changing are the VRAM pads. You will likely gain a little bit of Mem OC but given how much Fujiploy costs, I don't think its worth it. Its definitely not worth it to fujiploy the VRMs, they are already overkill cooled.

I just used cheap thermal putty for the backside cooling. Imma experiment with using Fujiploy or a copper shim for the central copper core padding to see if that drops the core temps by another 2-3 degrees but a large sheet of fujiploy in Australia costs like close to $100 so at this rate, it might be better for me to get a waterblock and watercool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slackaveli View Post

yeah, man, you gain the 13mhz or 26 mhz you lose when downclocking due to voltage. wont push your max clocks, but helps sustained clocks. as well as gpu life.

Thanks a ton guys!
Maybe I will just go the re-tim and leave the thermal pads as it is.
Not like I got the Slackaveli binned chip. wink.gif

Perhaps after doing this re-tim I will start playing with the voltages and see how that works out.
Now just to get the Thermal Grizzly it is amazingly hard to find it here in Singapore and ebay costs 30 USD with shipping to Singapore. rolleyes.gif
post #619 of 1165
Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch frown.gif

I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.

Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go smile.gif
post #620 of 1165
Quote:
Originally Posted by satinghostrider View Post


Thanks a ton guys!
Maybe I will just go the re-tim and leave the thermal pads as it is.
Not like I got the Slackaveli binned chip. wink.gif

Perhaps after doing this re-tim I will start playing with the voltages and see how that works out.
Now just to get the Thermal Grizzly it is amazingly hard to find it here in Singapore and ebay costs 30 USD with shipping to Singapore. rolleyes.gif
$30! damn. ouch.

people have been saying that after gauntlet testing some of the chips got mixed up and they made extremes out of reggies nad reggies out of extremes. And judging by what i've seen, it is sounding more and more true.

double ouch!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Douse View Post

Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch frown.gif

I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.

Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go smile.gif

well, guys, cant defend those prices but it is the best! Living abroad has it's advantages but shipping isnt one of them :/
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