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post #41 of 48
thx, k give me a min to have a look at them.

temps do look fine for the first few mins, although after 10 mins seems like its still going up. which aint great for long periods of time. still very acceptible

this is showing that at 100 % full load, after 10 mins your fan/heat sink are still losing a battle against your cpu with the graph steady rising(so try for a bit longer until the line is steady). if it just continues to rise like i said stop at about 75-85 deg, 90 at worst. your cpu temp should be almost as flat as the load line

if you done 1 normal clock, you would tell the difference between the 2 like night and day. normal clock would instant stable at 100% load and give you an idea of what it should look like under normal conditions.

how are the other temps comparing like your mb ? really i still cant see this been a problem thou.

cpu/board/ram
i could have the same CPU, i could have 2 boards and the same sticks of ram to test in each.
board (1) and cpu with ram could test like you at 4.4ghz
board (2) on other hand i get extra 10% with this CPU reaching 4.5ghz

so been as how people are suggesting board aint that great for overclocking think your just pushing on the limits on the board. now do you take the dive on a new board for an extra 10% that is up to you. i wouldnt as 10% dont justify another £100 bucks minus what you get back from 2nd hand sale of old board. just call this a learning curve next time youll buy a good board. crap CPU then work your way up. which is weird as asus are normally that little bit better on overclocks as compared to other makers

so if temps stabilise and are still low, you could improve the amount or quality of the ram/board both would give marginal better results with the same CPU. like i said its marginal thou 10% of nothing is still nothing or 0.1ghz in your case. really when it comes down to it your not better buying a new board for 10%but a new CPU as you would get more ghz per £. like i suggested earlier rolling back your Operating system alone can give this 10% and its basically free to do. thats up to you.
Edited by Mgrandy - 4/25/17 at 11:24am
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post #42 of 48
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgrandy View Post

thx, k give me a min to have a look at them.

temps do look fine for the first few mins, although after 10 mins seems like its still going up. which aint great for long periods of time. still very acceptible

this is showing that at 100 % full load, after 10 mins your fan/heat sink are still losing a battle against your cpu with the graph steady rising(so try for a bit longer until the line is steady). if it just continues to rise like i said stop at about 75-85 deg, 90 at worst. your cpu temp should be almost as flat as the load line

if you done 1 normal clock, you would tell the difference between the 2 like night and day. normal clock would instant stable at 100% load and give you an idea of what it should look like under normal conditions.

how are the other temps comparing like your mb ? really i still cant see this been a problem thou.

cpu/board/ram
i could have the same CPU, i could have 2 boards and the same sticks of ram to test in each.
board (1) and cpu with ram could test like you at 4.4ghz
board (2) on other hand i get extra 10% with this CPU reaching 4.5ghz

so been as how people are suggesting board aint that great for overclocking think your just pushing on the limits on the board. now do you take the dive on a new board for an extra 10% that is up to you. i wouldnt as 10% dont justify another £100 bucks minus what you get back from 2nd hand sale of old board. just call this a learning curve next time youll buy a good board. crap CPU then work your way up. which is weird as asus are normally that little bit better on overclocks as compared to other makers

so if temps stabilise and are still low, you could improve the amount or quality of the ram/board both would give marginal better results with the same CPU. like i said its marginal thou 10% of nothing is still nothing or 0.1ghz in your case. really when it comes down to it your not better buying a new board for 10%but a new CPU as you would get more ghz per £. like i suggested earlier rolling back your Operating system alone can give this 10% and its basically free to do. thats up to you.

Okay so a ran OCCT for 30mins. This allowed the temps to stabilize and stay consistent. Temps are still low so it could be the board. Adding the images so you may look over them and tell me what you think. Thanks.





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post #43 of 48
all looks fine tbh



blue is where your spikes are occurring

red is your fan kicking in at double speed. i would imagine as its getting hot by then and it also falls right after so not an issue there fans are doing the job there ment too.

tmpin0 im guessing is on your motherboard somewhere near cpu, which is also well below spec @ 30.8 deg

tmpin2 would most likely be your nb which is also fine @38.7 (possibly vrm)


so on that note ill put my cash on board but really thats not a bad overclock considering. i bet you could pick up a fx8350 for peanuts compared 2 a good board and would be alot better off fx8350 you can easy get to 4.4 also so the gains would be more for less and just await the new 16c 32t ryzens to drop(i wish) , like i said its very unusual for an asus to be under performing. ive had a number of boards from asus and all been fabulous some are still running today even. you could try the latest bios update this would decrease stability issues but not by much if any. the spikes are happening because its not to sure it can cope so it eases off which is y you have the slight step up/down on the temps as its climbing and falling along with the little spikes which are more than acceptable. in laymans terms your board goes for a dump on the local lav then comes back to work

temps are honestly great you could/should be able to push this that little bit more as you have the leeway with the temps if you dont mind a bit more spikes. if it were me i would reduce the clocks until that green line was more even should help with the spiking issue not nearly as bad as some ive seen thou on all accounts(like mine below)

if but and maybe, you could get single speed fans or bios them to run at full speed if it allows. it would increase the noise level on your PC. if you notice the spikes steadily get worse the longer its running. could improve issues but just plucking at straws really or shove them on a non-CPU pin header (usually cpu has 2 speeds others do not)

have a look at mine and you will soon see what i mean by bad spikes and erm major cooling issues and im on a h100 eek(2 year old recon stuck on drip setting 2) my temps seem to stabilise around the 75 deg mark kinda like the amd A10 stuck at 75 also, so just count your holy chickens and be thankful for what your receiving, mine seems to go out walk the dog, goto shop , nip in to the pub for a quick pint. then come home to feed my cpu tbh thou these do throttle above 56 so was definitely expected after 57 deg in my case its cooling and lots of it. i would be out of my mind to overclock mine at this current moment in time. i also have the throttle enabled in bios just for this reason and not hit 100% load for any longer than few mins on general use so tiz fine he says with sad face. seems ok gaming and such too for time being

Edited by Mgrandy - 4/27/17 at 12:20pm
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post #44 of 48
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgrandy View Post

all looks fine tbh



blue is where your spikes are occurring

red is your fan kicking in at double speed. i would imagine as its getting hot by then and it also falls right after so not an issue there fans are doing the job there ment too.

tmpin0 im guessing is on your motherboard somewhere near cpu, which is also well below spec @ 30.8 deg

tmpin2 would most likely be your nb which is also fine @38.7 (possibly vrm)


so on that note ill put my cash on board but really thats not a bad overclock considering. i bet you could pick up a fx8350 for peanuts compared 2 a good board and would be alot better off fx8350 you can easy get to 4.4 also so the gains would be more for less and just await the new 16c 32t ryzens to drop(i wish) , like i said its very unusual for an asus to be under performing. ive had a number of boards from asus and all been fabulous some are still running today even. you could try the latest bios update this would decrease stability issues but not by much if any. the spikes are happening because its not to sure it can cope so it eases off which is y you have the slight step up/down on the temps as its climbing and falling along with the little spikes which are more than acceptable. in laymans terms your board goes for a dump on the local lav then comes back to work

temps are honestly great you could/should be able to push this that little bit more as you have the leeway with the temps if you dont mind a bit more spikes. if it were me i would reduce the clocks until that green line was more even should help with the spiking issue not nearly as bad as some ive seen thou on all accounts(like mine below)

if but and maybe, you could get single speed fans or bios them to run at full speed if it allows. it would increase the noise level on your PC. if you notice the spikes steadily get worse the longer its running. could improve issues but just plucking at straws really or shove them on a non-CPU pin header (usually cpu has 2 speeds others do not)

have a look at mine and you will soon see what i mean by bad spikes and erm major cooling issues and im on a h100 eek(2 year old recon stuck on drip setting 2) my temps seem to stabilise around the 75 deg mark kinda like the amd A10 stuck at 75 also, so just count your holy chickens and be thankful for what your receiving, mine seems to go out walk the dog, goto shop , nip in to the pub for a quick pint. then come home to feed my cpu tbh thou these do throttle above 56 so was definitely expected after 57 deg in my case its cooling and lots of it. i would be out of my mind to overclock mine at this current moment in time. i also have the throttle enabled in bios just for this reason and not hit 100% load for any longer than few mins on general use so tiz fine he says with sad face. seems ok gaming and such too for time being

I hear what you are saying and it makes sense. I also see what yours looks like compared to mine and you are right. Night and day almost when it comes to spikes and temps.

I do need to clarify that this is a Gigabyte board not ASUS. Furthermore if temps are good and for the most part and truthfully I don't notice the drops other than on a meter/monitor. So I guess I need to decide is it more of a pride seeing it on my software monitor that I'm throttling and don't like seeing it or does it truly effect performance, which I truly don't think so and I'm pretty stable.

Temps are good, decent overclock (wish I was more at 4.5-4.6 stable) so I still want more performance. Maybe between the both of us we can get this to a 4.6 stable with good temps. I would just need to add to the multiplier I think.

Thanks again for all your help and what do you say about pushing the chip a bit further?
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post #45 of 48
ok sheet ya gigabyte mb i thought asus made that eek o well erm ya there not so good my first turned up dead and my g card is 2 years and dies lol 750ti 4gb ddr5 biggrin.gif

how are you clocking atm ? if you can remove and clocks and start from scratch and you the mhz CPU multi and see if you get better results in bios. like you know how it has a multi of like cpu 200x ect try this way go up slowly dnt do the GPU side until you have done that it will probs have max of 600 or so i think ill just check mine do a few screens.

few rules thou this way dont oc ram as it does it with the cpu and if you have a good amount of ram this way can be more beneficial i find and make sure you do CPU side first and jheese dont jump right on 600 biggrin.gif or what 500 max on mine
also dont use this method at the same time as method 2.

when you run a stability test for first time on OS no longer than 1 min at first and steadily increase time upto 20mins 30 mins max now you know how to read graphs it might be alot easier. obs look out for them spikes and high temps and these need to be tested on every reboot on all methods

this is first method



in the blank boxs cpu mhz frequency all mb start at 200 p-cie 100
increase cpu to 201 then write down your clock speed gain which youll find on main page after a reboot.
then after this work out how much it should would take to get you too 4.4. for god sake dont do this yet
now say its what 300 i would start at 250 then go up in 5 increments then when im getting close 2 and finally 1.
every time you go up you need to reboot , check in main page for your current clock , check temps in bios everything good yes then boot to OS
after you have your cpu done feel free to do the same with GPU side usually i leave this alone tbh as g cards pop alot frown.gif

2nd methodlittle bit more complex



you want to start on the what ever multi you have atm then go up by 1x or what ever smallest amount is

you see mine is at 22x just go up 1 step higher like 23x
if it dont boot give it a bit more volts i would look at that occtpt4.5.0 program and right down the general volts and things b4 hand take like this taken from what ever software you can

so here a good idea of max volts


and heres what i am atm at current clock


jesus says also that with volts comes heat so try not to go too high with them and it will take alot of reboots.
i would check what your safe volts are buy doing this first on no OC settings and just do volts see what you can get away with heat wise then i would add cpu settings on this dont go too high and always go up in the smallest amount

the nb ive already explained i think, you should clock this with your cpu to give more stable results so what ever your CPU single core freq is / 2 = +/- 200 mhz
i left my monitor on for 24h and it showd this once which is a bit mad notice the nb coincides with the clock i think it was possibly when i used blender to do some animation work but still unconfirmed as since then ive not used or seen it reach that speed it was only running at 90% load for a short period of time but still i didnt even have any setting on at time so very weird none the less


just remember if your PC shuts of fully during reset button always power off and take out battery and clear cmos
Edited by Mgrandy - 4/28/17 at 10:49am
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post #46 of 48
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgrandy View Post

ok sheet ya gigabyte mb i thought asus made that eek o well erm ya there not so good my first turned up dead and my g card is 2 years and dies lol 750ti 4gb ddr5 biggrin.gif

how are you clocking atm ? if you can remove and clocks and start from scratch and you the mhz CPU multi and see if you get better results in bios. like you know how it has a multi of like cpu 200x ect try this way go up slowly dnt do the GPU side until you have done that it will probs have max of 600 or so i think ill just check mine do a few screens.

few rules thou this way dont oc ram as it does it with the cpu and if you have a good amount of ram this way can be more beneficial i find and make sure you do CPU side first and jheese dont jump right on 600 biggrin.gif or what 500 max on mine
also dont use this method at the same time as method 2.

when you run a stability test for first time on OS no longer than 1 min at first and steadily increase time upto 20mins 30 mins max now you know how to read graphs it might be alot easier. obs look out for them spikes and high temps and these need to be tested on every reboot on all methods

this is first method



in the blank boxs cpu mhz frequency all mb start at 200 p-cie 100
increase cpu to 201 then write down your clock speed gain which youll find on main page after a reboot.
then after this work out how much it should would take to get you too 4.4. for god sake dont do this yet
now say its what 300 i would start at 250 then go up in 5 increments then when im getting close 2 and finally 1.
every time you go up you need to reboot , check in main page for your current clock , check temps in bios everything good yes then boot to OS
after you have your cpu done feel free to do the same with GPU side usually i leave this alone tbh as g cards pop alot frown.gif

2nd methodlittle bit more complex



you want to start on the what ever multi you have atm then go up by 1x or what ever smallest amount is

you see mine is at 22x just go up 1 step higher like 23x
if it dont boot give it a bit more volts i would look at that occtpt4.5.0 program and right down the general volts and things b4 hand take like this taken from what ever software you can

so here a good idea of max volts


and heres what i am atm at current clock


jesus says also that with volts comes heat so try not to go too high with them and it will take alot of reboots.
i would check what your safe volts are buy doing this first on no OC settings and just do volts see what you can get away with heat wise then i would add cpu settings on this dont go too high and always go up in the smallest amount

the nb ive already explained i think, you should clock this with your cpu to give more stable results so what ever your CPU single core freq is / 2 = +/- 200 mhz
i left my monitor on for 24h and it showd this once which is a bit mad notice the nb coincides with the clock i think it was possibly when i used blender to do some animation work but still unconfirmed as since then ive not used or seen it reach that speed it was only running at 90% load for a short period of time but still i didnt even have any setting on at time so very weird none the less


just remember if your PC shuts of fully during reset button always power off and take out battery and clear cmos

Got it and I've already have done most of this. I just need to add 1mhz to the multiplier so x23 for a 4.5 OC.

THANKS
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post #47 of 48
just do one or the other dont do both

raising the multiplier to x22 - x23 im guessing your doing atm which is method 2 ive explained.

method 1, is alot finer i find as you are not jumping by a set step only raising the clock , lets say your at 22x atm and 23x does not work. if you do it as per say in method 1 you will be able to refine it alot better. you know it works on 4.4 so what ever figure you have transfer it into the other method.

22x would be what 4.4 23x would be lets say 4.6
now take your 200 standard on method 1, 22x might be 250, 23x might be 300 so you have 50 points to check all with different volt settings an the like. you might find 250 all the way up to 299 is stable only 300 that is not.

im pretty sure the 22x /23x multi just increases cycles to the cpu not the actual freq.

200mhz cpu and they add a multi. if its 22x you x it by 22 when you add 23x you then add another 200mhz its the bit in between that your looking for. in the olden days we didnt have this as an option to change only the 200 number on method 1

and in your case 200 x 23 would be 4.6ghz you need to find the bit in the middle. surely they cant all fail from 4.4 - 4.6 what about 4.41, 4.42, 4.43 so on and so forth start low, i cant do it for ya i can only show ya the way.

lets say i keep the orignal clock multi (stock) and i change the freq so just for instance yours would be stock a 18x multi with a 201 freq as i see at 3.8ghz now do 4.4 / 18 x right so you would start at the figure 244 as used in method 1, lets say a bit less at 230 then just work your way up from there try 231,232,233,234,all way to 244 then beyond. 18x 1mhz is a step up of 18mhz not 200 mhz which is what you get with the multi, a much more refined way of over overclocking.

on another note i think the nb freq on intels you have to divide by 4 and not 2 like amd. as yep you guessed it amd have 2 pipes intel have 4

amd is in red as usual and blue intel sorry for my bad paint.net skills biggrin.gif but theres only so much you can fit down 2 tubes it be like chucking a tin of beans in a phone box in Africa. every one would try to cram in to the box only to get stuck at the door.

well i think thats how its meant to go at least. would you adam and eve it too. 4500mhz / 18 = 250 which was the previous figure i guessed earlier so you would have to try 244-5-6-7-8-9- and 250 like i said start low thou for all you know 249 might work which gives 4482mhz clock just because it says 23x dont work does not mean the space in between dont using another method. im not sure how the auto clock runs and which method it uses when it check the set speeds kinda y ive always done it myself. it could just raise the multi or the freq. i would guess it just ups the multi and adds in some more volts but i didnt program the search feature for the clocks so who knows, thats if you used the auto test clock speed feature etc to get the 4.4 then input into the bios.




mine says max is 500mhz so 500mhz x 18 would be 9ghz (lol er no just no), the multi only goes up to 6.3ghz max which is 350mhz @18x tbh think mines runs a 22x standard i think which would be about 286mhz mark, 200 on a normal 4.4ghz clock

heres a good bit of info ive found
"I can say 99% of CPU throttling problems on FX CPU's are due to either buggy BIOS in need of an update, or the more common VRM throttling. Your motherboard will throttle the CPU if the VRM phases get to hot or outside of a safe zone coded in the BIOS. This is hard-coded in and set to help prevent frying your motherboard."
which means you cant do nothing about it but keep cool not so much a problem in 990 chipsets but 970 i have is worse. yet you have this problem right from start of temps and i do not. mind you are OC thou. i wonder if my fx9370 would give same results in your board tbh but thats a mystery we can leave for today but my case its none of the above just heat eek. custom bios may cure that

o i found out what OC my cpu too 6.7ghz blender and my motherboards (APM) apps power management mode what it does is it gives a slight OC depending on your ram/cooling and stuff to improve certain programs. handy but i better stay away from blender as im struggling to cool as is and dare not switch it off as it works with throttle to limit my CPU in times of need instead of running 220w constant. dyam all these new mb features lol
Edited by Mgrandy - 4/30/17 at 9:35am
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my pride n joy
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post #48 of 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgrandy View Post

just do one or the other dont do both

raising the multiplier to x22 - x23 im guessing your doing atm which is method 2 ive explained.

method 1, is alot finer i find as you are not jumping by a set step only raising the clock , lets say your at 22x atm and 23x does not work. if you do it as per say in method 1 you will be able to refine it alot better. you know it works on 4.4 so what ever figure you have transfer it into the other method.

22x would be what 4.4 23x would be lets say 4.6
now take your 200 standard on method 1, 22x might be 250, 23x might be 300 so you have 50 points to check all with different volt settings an the like. you might find 250 all the way up to 299 is stable only 300 that is not.

im pretty sure the 22x /23x multi just increases cycles to the cpu not the actual freq.

200mhz cpu and they add a multi. if its 22x you x it by 22 when you add 23x you then add another 200mhz its the bit in between that your looking for. in the olden days we didnt have this as an option to change only the 200 number on method 1

and in your case 200 x 23 would be 4.6ghz you need to find the bit in the middle. surely they cant all fail from 4.4 - 4.6 what about 4.41, 4.42, 4.43 so on and so forth start low, i cant do it for ya i can only show ya the way.

lets say i keep the orignal clock multi (stock) and i change the freq so just for instance yours would be stock a 18x multi with a 201 freq as i see at 3.8ghz now do 4.4 / 18 x right so you would start at the figure 244 as used in method 1, lets say a bit less at 230 then just work your way up from there try 231,232,233,234,all way to 244 then beyond. 18x 1mhz is a step up of 18mhz not 200 mhz which is what you get with the multi, a much more refined way of over overclocking.

on another note i think the nb freq on intels you have to divide by 4 and not 2 like amd. as yep you guessed it amd have 2 pipes intel have 4

amd is in red as usual and blue intel sorry for my bad paint.net skills biggrin.gif but theres only so much you can fit down 2 tubes it be like chucking a tin of beans in a phone box in Africa. every one would try to cram in to the box only to get stuck at the door.

well i think thats how its meant to go at least. would you adam and eve it too. 4500mhz / 18 = 250 which was the previous figure i guessed earlier so you would have to try 244-5-6-7-8-9- and 250 like i said start low thou for all you know 249 might work which gives 4482mhz clock just because it says 23x dont work does not mean the space in between dont using another method. im not sure how the auto clock runs and which method it uses when it check the set speeds kinda y ive always done it myself. it could just raise the multi or the freq. i would guess it just ups the multi and adds in some more volts but i didnt program the search feature for the clocks so who knows, thats if you used the auto test clock speed feature etc to get the 4.4 then input into the bios.




mine says max is 500mhz so 500mhz x 18 would be 9ghz (lol er no just no), the multi only goes up to 6.3ghz max which is 350mhz @18x tbh think mines runs a 22x standard i think which would be about 286mhz mark, 200 on a normal 4.4ghz clock

heres a good bit of info ive found
"I can say 99% of CPU throttling problems on FX CPU's are due to either buggy BIOS in need of an update, or the more common VRM throttling. Your motherboard will throttle the CPU if the VRM phases get to hot or outside of a safe zone coded in the BIOS. This is hard-coded in and set to help prevent frying your motherboard."
which means you cant do nothing about it but keep cool not so much a problem in 990 chipsets but 970 i have is worse. yet you have this problem right from start of temps and i do not. mind you are OC thou. i wonder if my fx9370 would give same results in your board tbh but thats a mystery we can leave for today but my case its none of the above just heat eek. custom bios may cure that

o i found out what OC my cpu too 6.7ghz blender and my motherboards (APM) apps power management mode what it does is it gives a slight OC depending on your ram/cooling and stuff to improve certain programs. handy but i better stay away from blender as im struggling to cool as is and dare not switch it off as it works with throttle to limit my CPU in times of need instead of running 220w constant. dyam all these new mb features lol

Okay got it! Now, I'm pretty close to stabilizing at 4.5/4.6 and I know that I will continue to throttle even though it's not due to temps. Which now comes to my conclusion r you stated it... I'm leaning towards my bios being the issue. Like I said I'm stable just throttling and heating isn't an issue... your fx9370 I do believe it would be the same because like I said now I'm leaning towards bios being the issue
Gundam Shenlong
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Gundam Shenlong
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
FX 6300 GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3  Sapphire RX 460 Nitro Sapphire RX 460 Nitro 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer (Green LED) Samsung 840 EVO WD Blue  WD GREEN 
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CM Hyper 212 Plus Win 10 Thermaltake 750w Smart Series SP Bronze 80+ Thermaltake View 27 
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