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[Official] NVIDIA Titan Xp Owners' Club - Page 132

post #1311 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by airisom2 View Post

Lots of reasons why that won't work, but ultimately I would have replaced the fan anyway. The bearings are just too noisy and the fan design is not optimal for rads.

The LNA adapter is actually working much better than I thought. It is much quieter than stock, and still allows the fan to ramp up when connected to the graphics card header. However, it still idles too high, which I don't like. The ULNA adaptor gives me the idle I want, but load temperatures go beyond 74C with no sign of leveling off. At that point the blower fan got too loud and the card was starting to throttle a good bit, so I had to put the LNA adaptor back in.

I'm not too concerned about load noise as long as it's quieter than my speakers. The idle speeds are what's really important to me because I want a silent computer when idling.

The best way to handle this is to have the fans I ordered paired together and controlled by the gpu. We'll see next week if that will work out the way I'm hoping. The SilentWings 3 is one of the best noise optimized radiator fans out there. I just hope that the gpu will give the fans a low enough voltage so that they're silent when idle. Since they're going to be run in p/p, I should still have pretty good thermals under load, well better than a single fan at a similar rpm. We'll see smile.gif

I agree that the stock fan is probably garbage, but as far as motherboard fan headers and a fan controller not working--I'm not seeing how that is the case?

I'm not sure of your motherboard, but if you're using something like an Asus or GB board, you can set each header to a fan curve that's suitable and potentially more fine-tuned than that of most GPU fan headers.
 
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post #1312 of 1669
For me it wouldn't work out well. Fan curves work because they scale from a reference point like temperature. When you detach a gpu fan and try to set a foreign curve on it, it becomes a challenge because you will have to use another point of reference to set the curve. If I used my cpu temps, the fan wouldn't go beyond, say 500rpm, because the cpu cooler performs pretty well. That would cause high gpu temps when gaming. I cannot use case temps because they're really good due to all major heat sources being exhausted out of the case by the rads, so not much heat is dumped in the case. I'd run into the same situation as the former.

However, using my case's fan controller would also work. It has a high/low/off switch, and I could leave it in low when idle and high for gaming. The amperage on these fans is pretty low, so I won't have to worry about any power issues (not very robust). That will be the alternative in case my original plan doesn't work out the way I think it will.

The only way motherboard control would work is if I used voltage control, which is something that would have to be changed manually every time I needed to change the fan speed. For me, using the case's controller is more efficient, and not having to change anything and let the gpu do it's job is even more efficient.
post #1313 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by airisom2 View Post

For me it wouldn't work out well. Fan curves work because they scale from a reference point like temperature. When you detach a gpu fan and try to set a foreign curve on it, it becomes a challenge because you will have to use another point of reference to set the curve. If I used my cpu temps, the fan wouldn't go beyond, say 500rpm, because the cpu cooler performs pretty well. That would cause high gpu temps when gaming. I cannot use case temps because they're really good due to all major heat sources being exhausted out of the case by the rads, so not much heat is dumped in the case. I'd run into the same situation as the former.

However, using my case's fan controller would also work. It has a high/low/off switch, and I could leave it in low when idle and high for gaming. The amperage on these fans is pretty low, so I won't have to worry about any power issues (not very robust). That will be the alternative in case my original plan doesn't work out the way I think it will.

The only way motherboard control would work is if I used voltage control, which is something that would have to be changed manually every time I needed to change the fan speed. For me, using the case's controller is more efficient, and not having to change anything and let the gpu do it's job is even more efficient.

That makes more sense...however, don't forget that if using an Asus board, Qfan works with PWM and DC. You could also additionally scale the fans off of your CPU temps at a higher scale, but you are right in that it would fall a bit flat for any game that doesn't utilize your CPU.
 
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post #1314 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

If you're SLi-ing and can justify the $100 per extra frame over the Ti then I guess it's worth while. thumb.gif

I'm not SLI-ing and am way past the need to justify any of these computer expenditures. I bought it because it was what I wanted.

ETA: Mine saw first power last night, seemed to run fine on just a couple of the free TS and FS runs I put it through. Just making sure it wasn't DOA before putting the water block on it thumb.gif
Edited by GnarlyCharlie - 4/20/17 at 6:38am
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post #1315 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by pez View Post

That makes more sense...however, don't forget that if using an Asus board, Qfan works with PWM and DC. You could also additionally scale the fans off of your CPU temps at a higher scale, but you are right in that it would fall a bit flat for any game that doesn't utilize your CPU.

You can also use Speedfan to set a fan curve for any controllable fan based off of any monitor-able temp. I've got my rad fans plugged into the MB and Speedfan controls a curve based off of GPU temps no problem.
post #1316 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by alucardis666 View Post

If you're SLi-ing and can justify the $100 per extra frame over the Ti then I guess it's worth while. thumb.gif

I'm not SLI-ing and am way past the need to justify any of these computer expenditures. I bought it because it was what I wanted.

ETA: Mine saw first power last night, seemed to run fine on just a couple of the free TS and FS runs I put it through. Just making sure it wasn't DOA before putting the water block on it thumb.gif
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post #1317 of 1669
Okay.. so has anyone ACTUALLY made the shunt mod work on a TXp?? I mean demonstrated (and posted) power and power limit traces in AB as proof. Not nominal difference of scores in a benchmark.

I have tried the silver pen - no effect.

thin coat of CLP - no effect
thicker coat... just finished and it looks like this (not yet tested):
three 5MOs painted with CLP (yes it is conductive)
You can see all three resistors in these two pictures.

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post #1318 of 1669
@Jbravo33 showed the mod working on his TXp. My conductonaut arrives tomorrow. So will be joining the ranks soon.
post #1319 of 1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by rt123 View Post

@Jbravo33 showed the mod working on his TXp. My conductonaut arrives tomorrow. So will be joining the ranks soon.
but I'm not seeing any real proof it works on this card (not the Ti or TXP). bench scores are good, but not proof that this is doing what we think,.
I'm hoping it really does not require me to goober on a blob of LM... can't do that in my configuration. I know this from experience. redface.gif
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Mushkin 512 Intel 600 NVMe Raid0 Plextor DVD ROM Custom Water (Koolance 380i / XSPC 360v2) 
CoolingOSOSOS
Corsair H80iV2 (M8I) Windows 10 Pro Window 7 Linux Mint 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Seiki 4K AOC 1080P Ducky Cherry Black Silverstone 500W SFX form factor/ Seasonic 760W 
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Bench Logitech G700s Ultimate Ears TF10s 
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post #1320 of 1669
I think he showed GPUz with 60% TDP @ 2132Mhz... headscratch.gif
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