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Asrock X370 Taichi Overclocking Thread - Page 209

post #2081 of 2553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amir007 View Post

I'm so happy you confirmed this honestly. Can you tell me step by step how to manually set this in bios so I'm not seeing fake temps?
rolleyes.gif
If you want to simplify things for yourself just do it through ryzen master suite - your values all look normal so i dont see the issue other than you not overclocking and complaining about low cinebench scores rolleyes.gif jk
Set you core clock to 4000mhz, core voltage to 1.400v and apply. If its stable move onto memory, if not bump your voltage up one to 1.40625, rinse repeat. Doing a run of cinebench should give a good idea on whether to open aida 64 or not and with aida 64 try for 10-15 minutes and then just use your computer normally. No random reboots of bsod? Great turn aida on overnight and check it in the morning and guess what? Its probably stable for just about anything. Memory gets trickier but honestly 3200mhz is EASY now - just stick in the values of 14 14 14 14 36 with 1.35v and it should stick with the same rough protocol with aida. If it doesn't bump it up to 1.4v followed by dropping your core clock from 4000 to 3975, 3950, 3925 and then 3900 - at which point you realize you overpaid for a 1700 that was mislabled as an 1800x.You should then rma it for another because you lost the silicon lottery and paid an extra $100 to do so and when you consider both the 1700 and 1700x cost $100 less, and that when you apply a 3800mhz oc to either they are more powerful than a stock 1800x. And the 1700 can do that 3.8 with its included cooler to boot. I mean seriously these are UNLOCKED and overclocking is a lot of fun, not to mention something youve paid for and youre otherwise leaving performance on the table - I mean why else would you buy a TAICHI?!? If you want good out of the box performance sure the 1800x is great for not overclocking, as is the 1600x for half the price and a number of motherboards that are a fair bit less. Do you have two Nvidia graphics? Good, if youre buying AMD you might as well buy AMD right - no point giving the competition market share in any market segment unless you are looking forward to a future of monopolies right? The upper end x370 boards has beefier vrms for overclocking like this boards 16 phase IR vrm and sli support, for half the price the Killer has 12 phases and other than the 2nd m.2 slot being slower and it only having usb 3.1 gen1 it has most of the pros of your taichi for half the price and there are a whole bunch of different flavors in between those two price points. And for even less there are some great b350 options, all of which can handle a stock 1800x...
post #2082 of 2553
Your idle temps are over 10C in same bios im running. What I told you to do isn’t really an overclock on an 1800. I’d follow my steps exactly(it’s safe) temps may go down. Just follow exactly what I said and then you can diagnose the issue. You did peel the sticker off the cpu cooler and are using just a pea size drip of thermal compound correct?
post #2083 of 2553
Quote:
Originally Posted by sierra248 View Post

Your idle temps are over 10C in same bios im running. What I told you to do isn’t really an overclock on an 1800. I’d follow my steps exactly(it’s safe) temps may go down. Just follow exactly what I said and then you can diagnose the issue. You did peel the sticker off the cpu cooler and are using just a pea size drip of thermal compound correct?


Of course. Yes sir!! I will get on it soon I'm just checking things in windows post clear cmos and everything at default...Actually this cooler was used in my z97 mobo with Intel i7 4770k. I had to purchase the AM4 adapter for it at the Microcenter to make it work. I only used a pea size drop of AS5 on the middle of the heatspreader. I've had my years of building its just that this time around I feel like I need to actually modify the entire bios to just get things running normal.

I just remembered something important I did on the 13th. I installed AMD Ryzen chipset drivers to setup AMD Ryzen Balanced power plan: I thought it was the right thing to do. https://community.amd.com/community/gaming/blog/2017/04/26/new-amd-ryzen-chipset-drivers-now-available

I just uninstalled it and my idle temp/VID is completely different. Do you guys use this Ryzen balanced power plan?
post #2084 of 2553
Quote:
Originally Posted by smash1904 View Post

rolleyes.gif
If you want to simplify things for yourself just do it through ryzen master suite - your values all look normal so i dont see the issue other than you not overclocking and complaining about low cinebench scores rolleyes.gif jk
Set you core clock to 4000mhz, core voltage to 1.400v and apply. If its stable move onto memory, if not bump your voltage up one to 1.40625, rinse repeat. Doing a run of cinebench should give a good idea on whether to open aida 64 or not and with aida 64 try for 10-15 minutes and then just use your computer normally. No random reboots of bsod? Great turn aida on overnight and check it in the morning and guess what? Its probably stable for just about anything. Memory gets trickier but honestly 3200mhz is EASY now - just stick in the values of 14 14 14 14 36 with 1.35v and it should stick with the same rough protocol with aida. If it doesn't bump it up to 1.4v followed by dropping your core clock from 4000 to 3975, 3950, 3925 and then 3900 - at which point you realize you overpaid for a 1700 that was mislabled as an 1800x.You should then rma it for another because you lost the silicon lottery and paid an extra $100 to do so and when you consider both the 1700 and 1700x cost $100 less, and that when you apply a 3800mhz oc to either they are more powerful than a stock 1800x. And the 1700 can do that 3.8 with its included cooler to boot. I mean seriously these are UNLOCKED and overclocking is a lot of fun, not to mention something youve paid for and youre otherwise leaving performance on the table - I mean why else would you buy a TAICHI?!? If you want good out of the box performance sure the 1800x is great for not overclocking, as is the 1600x for half the price and a number of motherboards that are a fair bit less. Do you have two Nvidia graphics? Good, if youre buying AMD you might as well buy AMD right - no point giving the competition market share in any market segment unless you are looking forward to a future of monopolies right? The upper end x370 boards has beefier vrms for overclocking like this boards 16 phase IR vrm and sli support, for half the price the Killer has 12 phases and other than the 2nd m.2 slot being slower and it only having usb 3.1 gen1 it has most of the pros of your taichi for half the price and there are a whole bunch of different flavors in between those two price points. And for even less there are some great b350 options, all of which can handle a stock 1800x...

Thanks Smash. I will do that once I get my NZXT water cooler tomorrow. I beg to differ on the 1800x vs 1700x...The 1800x is finer silicon and Microcenter had a great deal on both the motherboard and CPU. Here's what I paid:

BTW i've been meaning to ask this..where the heck is the multiplier located in bios?
post #2085 of 2553
First Run:




Second Run:




This is what I'm talking about...sometimes I get half the score and sometimes it performs as it should. I need to figure out what's causing the CPU to throttle
post #2086 of 2553
Quote:
Originally Posted by sierra248 View Post

Your idle temps are over 10C in same bios im running. What I told you to do isn’t really an overclock on an 1800. I’d follow my steps exactly(it’s safe) temps may go down. Just follow exactly what I said and then you can diagnose the issue. You did peel the sticker off the cpu cooler and are using just a pea size drip of thermal compound correct?

Alright here's what I've done so far in bios but have no saved n exit yet:

OC Tweaker:

Overclock Mode = Manual
APU/PCIE Frequency (Mhz) = 100

CPU Frequency and Voltage Change = Manual (You didn't mention if this should also be Manual? Most likely it does.)
CPU Frequency (Mhz) = 3800 (originally 3600)
CPU Voltage (V) = 1.35000 (already set to 1.35000) Is that normal?
SMT Mode = Enabled

Load XMP Setting = Auto ( I will change to XMP 2.0 Profile 1 after next restart for ddr4 3200hz)
AM4 Advance Boot Training = Auto

Voltage Mode = Stable Mode <----should this be OC mode? It shows up in RED font.

CPU Vcore Voltage = Auto <----Leave Auto? or set to Offset Mode or Fixed Mode?
CPU Load-Line Calibration = Level 5 = Auto <----you said set this one to 3 right? Why? r u sure?
VDDCR_SOC Voltage = Auto <---Leave this Auto? or set to Offset Mode or Fixed Mode?
VDDCR_SOC Load-Line Calibration = Level 5 = Auto <----You didn't say what this should be? 3 as well? or 1?

Let me know when you get a chance and then I'll work on the RAM next. I also have questions on Advanced>UMC Common Options>DDR4 Cmmon Options>DRAM Controller Configuration:
CMD2T = Auto<---1T or 2T? when running DDR4 3200?
Gear Down Mode: Auto <---should I Disable this if using 2T? I read this on here earlier today that it is recommended? True or not?
post #2087 of 2553
I got some time to get some more frustration and suffering so I decided to reboot few more times to see if that "62 problem" persists or I just got lucky last times.

And bad news is that I was able to reproduce that. As mentioned by datonyb It wasn't 62 but b2 (e.g. there is none top horizontal line)
The BIOS freezes are coupled with the very small text "4b" in the right lower corner. I also got some weird reboot loops (like every few seconds) that could be interrupted only by powering off the system

It seems to be memory-related so that CPU voltage changes I made were once again a placebo-effect

So I decided to start from a scratch and resetted the bios (not by the button but by removing the battery this time)
I manually restored most of the settings (e.g not from saved profiles - set the cpu to 3900 and 1.37 voltages for both the VID and VCORE, SoC voltage to 1.05, slightly reduced the VDDP, picked the 3200 XMP profile, 1T command ratio, enabled Geardown)

I guess I need more clarification in memory settings that I barely touched previously.
Again, my ram kit is dual-rank F4-3200C14D-32GTZR 2x16gb with default timings 14-14-14-34

1. Should I really go with 1T+GD ON or 2T ratio is preffered in case of dualrank modules? From what I know 2T provides less performance but its not fully clear for me how this works and how big is the impact
2. What procODT can be used in my case? It was on auto till this point. I haven't touched that yet because the system performed mostly fine last couple of days but it seems that I will need more tweaking and test everything more thoroughly (I generally avoided very long testing sessions, e.g. after waiting an hour or so I assumed that I'm mostly fine)
3. What about the "bank group swap"? I've read the recommendation (not sure about the source) to set it to "bankGroupSwap enabled" and "bankGroupSwapAlt disabled". Currently I decided to left this on auto and it is basically the opposite (e.g. Alt enabled, "normal" bankGroupSwap is disabled)
4. Maybe any other suggestions to get it stable at 3200?

I really wish to get the most of my system but this tweaking process takes a plenty of time and becoming more annoying. Will I lose much if everything will fail and I'll just stay within 2933-3066 range? (speaking of games and adobe software that I mostly work with - I'm using this PC both as my workstation and gaming pc)
Edited by Korrektor - 10/17/17 at 8:51pm
post #2088 of 2553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Korrektor View Post

I got some time to get some more frustration and suffering so I decided to reboot few more times to see if that "62 problem" persists or I just got lucky last times.

And bad news is that I was able to reproduce that. As mentioned by datonyb It wasn't 62 but b2 (e.g. there is none top horizontal line)
The BIOS freezes are coupled with the very small text "4b" in the right lower corner. I also got some weird reboot loops (like every few seconds) that could be interrupted only by powering off the system

It seems to be memory-related so that CPU voltage changes I made were once again a placebo-effect

So I decided to start from a scratch and resetted the bios (not by the button but by removing the battery this time)
I manually restored most of the settings (e.g not from saved profiles - set the cpu to 3900 and 1.37 voltages for both the VID and VCORE, SoC voltage to 1.05, slightly reduced the VDDP, picked the 3200 XMP profile, 1T command ratio, enabled Geardown)

I guess I need more clarification in memory settings that I barely touched previously.
Again, my ram kit is dual-rank F4-3200C14D-32GTZR 2x16gb with default timings 14-14-14-34

1. Should I really go with 1T+GD ON or 2T ratio is preffered in case of dualrank modules? From what I know 2T provides less performance but its not fully clear for me how this works and how big is the impact
2. What procODT can be used in my case? It was on auto till this point. I haven't touched that yet because the system performed mostly fine last couple of days but it seems that I will need more tweaking and test everything more thoroughly (I generally avoided very long testing sessions, e.g. after waiting an hour or so I assumed that I'm mostly fine)
3. What about the "bank group swap"? I've read the recommendation (not sure about the source) to set it to "bankGroupSwap enabled" and "bankGroupSwapAlt disabled". Currently I decided to left this on auto and it is basically the opposite (e.g. Alt enabled, "normal" bankGroupSwap is disabled)
4. Maybe any other suggestions to get it stable at 3200?

I really wish to get the most of my system but this tweaking process takes a plenty of time and becoming more annoying. Will I lose much if everything will fail and I'll just stay within 2933-3066 range? (speaking of games and adobe software that I mostly work with - I'm using this PC both as my workstation and gaming pc)

Hi Korrektor - I spent a great deal of time today reading this thread and when it comes to Geardown you should keep it at 2T if doing 3200mhz+ for stability. But again, I could be wrong. So far I'm not crashing doing one change at the time and the guys on here are great at helping smile.gif
post #2089 of 2553
Yes I’m sure, both llc at 3, geardown enabled and don’t use the offset, just enter in exactly as I posted in the order I posted and leave everything else where it is when you set defaults. You’ll have a starting point, you can then try a 4.0ghz as I’m sure that’s why you got the 1800 and try 3333 and 3466 memory(you’ll need to bump up your Dram Voltsge, try 1.4, then back it down once your stable.
Good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amir007 View Post

Alright here's what I've done so far in bios but have no saved n exit yet:

OC Tweaker:

Overclock Mode = Manual
APU/PCIE Frequency (Mhz) = 100

CPU Frequency and Voltage Change = Manual (You didn't mention if this should also be Manual? Most likely it does.)
CPU Frequency (Mhz) = 3800 (originally 3600)
CPU Voltage (V) = 1.35000 (already set to 1.35000) Is that normal?
SMT Mode = Enabled

Load XMP Setting = Auto ( I will change to XMP 2.0 Profile 1 after next restart for ddr4 3200hz)
AM4 Advance Boot Training = Auto

Voltage Mode = Stable Mode <----should this be OC mode? It shows up in RED font.

CPU Vcore Voltage = Auto <----Leave Auto? or set to Offset Mode or Fixed Mode?
CPU Load-Line Calibration = Level 5 = Auto <----you said set this one to 3 right? Why? r u sure?
VDDCR_SOC Voltage = Auto <---Leave this Auto? or set to Offset Mode or Fixed Mode?
VDDCR_SOC Load-Line Calibration = Level 5 = Auto <----You didn't say what this should be? 3 as well? or 1?

Let me know when you get a chance and then I'll work on the RAM next. I also have questions on Advanced>UMC Common Options>DDR4 Cmmon Options>DRAM Controller Configuration:
CMD2T = Auto<---1T or 2T? when running DDR4 3200?
Gear Down Mode: Auto <---should I Disable this if using 2T? I read this on here earlier today that it is recommended? True or not?
post #2090 of 2553
@ amir007

to be fair there are a few that think the 1700 non x is the finer silicon (due to be binned as capable of low tdp) but thats not the issue here
as said the 1800x is fine if your happy the price you paid

what sierra and most of us are trying to say and help you with sounds incorrect but it is very correct

it is possible to get the ryzen running lower MAX volts with a higher clockspeed than its stock settings

my system is set to 3.9 all cores fixed with a max volts of 1.325 (and will drop to around 0.500 on idle)

i dont know if the 1800x can drop as low and remain stable ,but thats what advice here will help you find out (the exact charector of your own cpu )

regarding the case fans (or lack of)

you realise when you fit an aftermarket 'sideflow' fan and heatsink you have removed the normal 'downdraft' over the vrms and board ?
irrelevent to size of case in my view case fans become MORE important when the heatsink and fan are changed for the normal sideflow type
Edited by datonyb - 10/18/17 at 1:41am
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