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First custom water loop seeing high cpu temps - Page 2

post #11 of 34
Would put Vardar fans in the lower part to. seem you push more air out the case then you get inside the case.
(case looks amazing but don't really trust that design i think the top fans blow the air back inside the case to recycle it again)
b.t.w. the color in your res looks discolored, but could be the picture.
post #12 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ordered a rockitcool 88 today, I work in the semiconductor industry so I could probably do without it but doesn't hurt to have the proper tools. Looking at the results Im going to stick with putting the lid back on. Plus I like the idea of having the thicker heat shield on the Intel socket to properly distribute the forces so the socket makes the best connection.
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post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMUracing View Post

I couldn't hit 5ghz with my 7700k. Thermal limitation. I have 2x200mm radiators with an ek supremacy evo. I would hit mid 90c at 4.8ghz. Once I removed the heat spreader and used liquid metal, I dropped about 30c at 4.9ghz, and can hit 5.18 for bench runs.

The TIM on my heat spreader looked like it was barely making contact with the die.

If you remove the lid, be sure to remove the black glue that attached it to the substrate. That will help better contact with the die reducing the gap.

With the proper tools and supplies, I would give the process a level 3 difficulty out of 10...

This is similar to the results I'm currently seeing. Far more at ease now that it seems to be an issue with the tim.
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post #14 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanneveld View Post

Would put Vardar fans in the lower part to. seem you push more air out the case then you get inside the case.
(case looks amazing but don't really trust that design i think the top fans blow the air back inside the case to recycle it again)
b.t.w. the color in your res looks discolored, but could be the picture.

It may be hard to see but there is 3 fans on the bottom of the case under the radiator. Once I get everything running properly running I'll have a better idea what the case performance is like. The top 3 vardar fans actually exhaust out the back of the case. There is a large vent there that's not pictured
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post #15 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreme21 View Post

Just to clarify are you wet sanding the heat spreader on the CPU or the CPU block heat spreader or both?

Thanks!

Sanding the heat spreader on the cpu since even of you remove the black silicone gluing the heat spreader to the PCB you can still bring the heat spreader closer to the cpu die of you sand it = heat travel less = better heat transfer = better temps.
Never need to sand the cpu block heat spreader ( if by that you ofc mean the air / water cooling block ) unless you see a bad job on it like a heck of alot of swirls or it is for some reason not a perfect straight machine job.. Then I wet sand with 3000 - 5000 grit paper ( 1200 if it is very very bad ). Last 10 min of sanding I use 8000 - 10 000 grit. Then I polish until mirror finish.

Hope this did clarify smile.gif
Edited by Cooked CPU - 4/12/17 at 5:36pm
post #16 of 34
I used the rocket88 to delid mine. I used clear nail polish to cover the transistors near the die, and did not glue the spreader back on. I just held the spreader in place as i latched the socket down.

I had wanted to glue the spreader back on, but the glue I ordered didn't arrive by the time I removed the lid.
post #17 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMUracing View Post

I used the rocket88 to delid mine. I used clear nail polish to cover the transistors near the die, and did not glue the spreader back on. I just held the spreader in place as i latched the socket down.

I had wanted to glue the spreader back on, but the glue I ordered didn't arrive by the time I removed the lid.

what type of glue were you going to use? I have some automotive rtv sealant I was thinking may work
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post #18 of 34
I was going to use a silicone. I have a few tubes of different CA's, but I wanted it to stick, but kind of float when the socket clamped down
post #19 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooked CPU View Post

Sanding the heat spreader on the cpu since even of you remove the black silicone gluing the heat spreader to the PCB you can still bring the heat spreader closer to the cpu die of you sand it = heat travel less = better heat transfer = better temps.
Never need to sand the cpu block heat spreader ( if by that you ofc mean the air / water cooling block ) unless you see a bad job on it like a heck of alot of swirls or it is for some reason not a perfect straight machine job.. Then I wet sand with 3000 - 5000 grit paper ( 1200 if it is very very bad ). Last 10 min of sanding I use 8000 - 10 000 grit. Then I polish until mirror finish.

Hope this did clarify smile.gif

Ye sir thank you.

+REP
post #20 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by firefox2501 View Post

what type of glue were you going to use? I have some automotive rtv sealant I was thinking may work

You can use RTV silicone used on cars as a gasket maker. Or you can use Locktite 5900 or 5910 since none of them has vinegar acid in them. That is the only thing you should look out for while using any silicone / gasket maker on your PCB.
And since none has pointed it out to you yet, only use a really really really small amount so you dont "lift" the heatspreader to high from your cpu die smile.gif and you dont need to glue all 4 sides, only 2 or 4 corners.

But if you get rocket88 delid kit with the relid kit to it. Delid and do the cleaning etc, put the headspreader back on and use the relid kit to hold the heatspreader in place. then use Super glue gel with 1 drop in eatch corner and you are all done smile.gif
Edited by Cooked CPU - 4/13/17 at 8:05am
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