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Water cooling prep??? - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderTheGoober View Post

For this to work you would need a T fitting. I would place the T fitting so the passthrough portion of the fitting is going up and down/side to side and the perpendicular side is the one that goes into the rad.
We are talking about your drain right? If so you will likely need a male to male fitting, (rotary fitting for ease of use).
I can get pictures of my loop when I get home if you wish.

EDIT: here is a picture of after I got done revamping it the last time.

You can see the cutoff valve right above the rear radiator. unfortunately the drain I have setup is tucked behind the HDD cage cover so you can't see it in my picture, but you get a good idea of how I have my stuff routed.

This port of the radiator is actually a drain port, having it as he's put would drain the radiator and anything above those ports. He's using a 90° -> Male-male fitting -> ball valve -> stop plug.

Alphacool radiators XT45 and thicker have these bottom ports.
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post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duality92 View Post

This port of the radiator is actually a drain port, having it as he's put would drain the radiator and anything above those ports. He's using a 90° -> Male-male fitting -> ball valve -> stop plug.

Alphacool radiators XT45 and thicker have these bottom ports.

Yup, I understand that completely, just re touching on a previous point I made in this thread for the cutoff valve to force backflow when flushing a loop out. I also mentioned in this post that the drain port is present but just not pictured as it is behind the hdd cover connected to the bottom rad. To my understanding this is what he is aiming for, connecting the drain to the bottom rad.
post #13 of 15
Boil distilled water -- let cool a bit down to 70-80C. Fill rads, shake hard, rinse -- repeat a few times. Submerge fittings and tubes in hot (not super hot that it affects the o-rings) distilled water, shake and slosh around to loosen any debris. Always manage to get some factory black-ish residue from the rads this way. Also wear latex gloves to prevent skin oil and/or sweat from contacting the inside of the components.
 
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post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input guys.
i have another question how tight do the fittings have to be i have the to where they cant go anymore by hand
post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelkid View Post

Thanks for the input guys.
i have another question how tight do the fittings have to be i have the to where they cant go anymore by hand

I have only used XSPC fittings that are coin fit so you can use a quarter to tighten them. If you're fittings are hand tight and you don't have a tool that came with the fittings to tighten them, or in XSPC fasion a coin to tighten them just a tiny bit further then I would call it good. A leak test when the system is assembled will tell you what areas if any will need to be re-visited.
Remember to only leak test with the rest of the system off.

EDIT: Be sure all the fittings have the o ring on the threads to seal properly and you should be good.
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