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[Sponsored] Floating Cave - Page 2

post #11 of 102
Thread Starter 
Sir, it is a pleasure and honor to provide some entertaining to you.

I build a detachable stand for the side panel, to simplify the further work. They’re screwed in M4 drive-in nuts.





With the stand it was much easier to apply the primer coat.



Same for he filling.



Next step was sanding. I hate sanding nearly as much as filling… The result isn’t perfect yet, but I am going to do the final finish later. There’s a high risk to damage the side panel till the end of the project. After this I unmounted my desk to measure some fixing points. I copied the mounting holes from the original panel to the new one using my router.



While drilling in some holes I got some breakouts. This is why I postponed the filling.



It took four rounds of filling and sanding till I was satisfied with the result. I will do a final round after the case is completed.

Then I milled in the cutout for the panel of the power and network-cable.



At this time most of the holes and nuts should have been done.





The integration of the connectors for power and network cable was the next step.



post #12 of 102
Thread Starter 
Next step was to assembly the inner case for the first time. Unfortunately the panels didn’t fit as planned. My mistake was to cut the panels before I finished the side panel. After all the sawing, filling and sanding the openings within the side panels just got a little bigger than planned. I’m going to fill the gaps with glue and filler.



Not all panels are fixed at their exact position, so don’t mind the gaps.



The section on the right is meant to be for the power supply. It will pull the air out of the main section and blow it up and out of the case. This is going to be the only active ventilation for the main section.



At the back side there is enough room (6 cm) for all cables, the Aquaero and other supplies.



The bottom area is meant for the cables plugged into the mainboard, the pump and eventually the SSDs. There are two openings for the cables leaving the inner case. One to the front panel…



… and one to the back headed for radiator, multiple electrical outlet and monitor etc.




Parallel to working on the case itself I did a lot of planning for the inner details. I ordered sample kits to compare the Paracord and the MDPC-X sleeve.



The plan is to avoid all visible cables. But the few you will see have to look perfect! I thought about colored sleeve, but decided against it. I don’t know what color theme the next hardware generation is going to have, and do not want to have to do the sleeving again. Then I got an idea for changing color accents in the cables according to the main lightning. First step of this idea was to use cable chains. They are a perfect choice to achieve the industrial look I am looking for. I am going to use the MDPC-X-sleeve in black and two shades of grey.





In addition to the sleeved cables I am going to put fibre optics into the cable chains. I found a special one with a diameter of 1.5 mm which emits light not only from end to end but also to the side.





The light yield was a problem, till a forum user made the suggestion to cover the open ending with aluminium foil and shrinking tube. Now it’s bright enough.



I had to check what resistors I have to use to get the same colors with my 5 mm RGB-LEDs and the RGB-strings. Luckily they are looking fine together:



Since I am going to use more than 8 m of RGB-strings and several 5 mm LEDs, one Farbwerk is not enough. I ordered a second one.


Edited by mrmaler - 4/27/17 at 1:10am
post #13 of 102
Nice!
I'm really curious to see how the cable chains are going to look when finished , but that is a very original idea thumb.gif
   
Air 240 Purple
(17 items)
 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
intel i7-4790K Delid Asus Z97 Gryphon Sapphire Vapor-X OC R9 290 4GB  
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB 1600MHz @ 1866MHz Western Digital 2TB Red  Samsung 840 PRO SSD 256GB Samsung 840 PRO SSD 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Corsair H75 Hydro series Push/Pull Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition High Sta... Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition High Air... Windows 10 Pro 64bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung Syncmaster P2470HD TV monitor Dell U2713HM Magicforce 68 Gateron Reds Coolermaster V850 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Obsidian 350D window Logitech G502 Proteus Core Corsair Vengeance MM200 Extended Edition Gaming... Creative Gigaworks T40 SeriesII 
AudioAudioOtherOther
FiiO Olympus 2 E10K Beyerdynamic DT 990 NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller BitFenix Alchemy extension cables blue 
OtherOther
TP-LINK TL-WDN3800 Sharkoon 5.25" Bay Extension 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Intel Atom Quad Core Z3740 (1.33-1.86GHz) Intel HD Graphics(Ivy Bridge) 2 GB DDR3  32 GB eMMC  
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 4 128gb Kingston 16Gb Micro SD Windows 10 Home 32-bit 10.1" IPS (1368 x 768) 
CaseMouse
iPearl mCover Hard Shell Case - Blue Logitech M560 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-4670 ASRock z97m Pro4 msi Gaming 280X  Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4gb @1600 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston ValueRam 2x4gb @1600 Mushkin Triactor 120gb SSD HGST Travelstar 7k1000 1Tb Cryorig C7 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 Purple LED X4 Windows 10 Pro  Samsung UE46D6500 46" 3D LED smart TV Anne Pro-Gateron Blues 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX620W Corsair Carbide Air 240 White edition Connect IT Ci-156 Sony DAV-DZ860W Home Theater 
Other
BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 60cm RGB Magnetic LEDs 
  hide details  
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Air 240 Purple
(17 items)
 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
intel i7-4790K Delid Asus Z97 Gryphon Sapphire Vapor-X OC R9 290 4GB  
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB 1600MHz @ 1866MHz Western Digital 2TB Red  Samsung 840 PRO SSD 256GB Samsung 840 PRO SSD 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Corsair H75 Hydro series Push/Pull Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition High Sta... Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition High Air... Windows 10 Pro 64bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung Syncmaster P2470HD TV monitor Dell U2713HM Magicforce 68 Gateron Reds Coolermaster V850 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Obsidian 350D window Logitech G502 Proteus Core Corsair Vengeance MM200 Extended Edition Gaming... Creative Gigaworks T40 SeriesII 
AudioAudioOtherOther
FiiO Olympus 2 E10K Beyerdynamic DT 990 NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller BitFenix Alchemy extension cables blue 
OtherOther
TP-LINK TL-WDN3800 Sharkoon 5.25" Bay Extension 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Intel Atom Quad Core Z3740 (1.33-1.86GHz) Intel HD Graphics(Ivy Bridge) 2 GB DDR3  32 GB eMMC  
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 4 128gb Kingston 16Gb Micro SD Windows 10 Home 32-bit 10.1" IPS (1368 x 768) 
CaseMouse
iPearl mCover Hard Shell Case - Blue Logitech M560 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-4670 ASRock z97m Pro4 msi Gaming 280X  Kingston HyperX Savage 2x4gb @1600 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston ValueRam 2x4gb @1600 Mushkin Triactor 120gb SSD HGST Travelstar 7k1000 1Tb Cryorig C7 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 Purple LED X4 Windows 10 Pro  Samsung UE46D6500 46" 3D LED smart TV Anne Pro-Gateron Blues 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX620W Corsair Carbide Air 240 White edition Connect IT Ci-156 Sony DAV-DZ860W Home Theater 
Other
BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 60cm RGB Magnetic LEDs 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14 of 102
Removed.
Edited by asciii - 7/8/17 at 11:32pm
post #15 of 102
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! Me too can't wait to see it :-D

Next big step was to unmount the water-cooling components of my current rig. For the further steps I need to have fast access to the hardware, to do measurements etc. Last picture of my tower:




I cleaned all cooling parts in an ultrasonic bath. I exchanged all sealing rings. All copper parts got a bath in citric acid. Took no pics of all the work.
Then I drilled out the rivets of the backplate of an old case. I am going to install this backplate into my MDF-backplate. By this I get a good fitting backplate with all the openings and fixing points it needs. You will not be able to see this backplate in the end, because I’m planning to use a cover. I mounted my motherboard and marked the position of the different connectors.



Till the project is finished I am going to use only the onboard GPU and the boxed cooler. I have plans for the GPU-cooler. Another reason finish this project as fast as possible!
To get the perfect symmetry of the sleeved cables in the energy chains I need cable-combs. Especially to get the fibre-optics in the right positions. There are no matching ones on the market, so I had to develop my own ones. They are very delicate. I 3D-printed them on a Polyjet-3D-printer at work. These printers are way more accurate than the common 3D-printers which meld a filament. They print by applying a 16 um thin coating, which is hardened by UV-light.



The smaller combs consists of several small pieces, connected through pins which I am going to remove after gluing. After printing them I had to remove some support material. Last remains are disintegrated in sodium hydroxide.



Then I started milling some of my parts. I am planning to build my own reservoir, using three tubes made of borosilicate glass. Found a glassblower who manufactured them for me. Most important part was to get rounded edges. My goal is to manufacture as many parts as possible on my own. Nevertheless, for the reservoir bottom part I needed the help of my chef and a CNC. There is no way of milling the inner T-slots for the O-rings on a manual milling machine. The material is POM (Delrin).



This piece isn’t finished yet, the G1/4“ threaded holes are missing. Later you will not be able to see this piece, I am using a cover made out of aluminium around the tubes.




The aluminium piece is the basic block for the front panel, with openings for the power button and two USB3.0 connectors (not done yet). It will get a cover made from stainless steel.

post #16 of 102
Thread Starter 
The reservoir bottom part is almost finished. I only have to add some threads for attaching it to the case. There is a holder for a RGB-LED exactly underneath every glass tube to enlighten them from underneath. Inlet and outlet are facing upwards at an angle of 45°. By this the incoming fluid is pressed into the tube instead of directly going to the outlet. I hope to get a better degassing through this. I’m not satisfied with the quality of the surface yet. I’ll have to sand it a little bit later.







I then started with gluing in the 3D-printed cable-combs into the energy chains. Sleeve-color is just improvised.







Then I worked on the front panel which will be located at the face side of the side panel. The back part is made from aluminium, the front cover is 2 mm thick stainless steel. Was a lot of work with the key file.







post #17 of 102
Thread Starter 
I decided to go to a professional to get my visible cables sleeved. The german representation for MDPC-X is purple-banana.de, and they did an amazing job! I’m really happy about the results. I ordered the cables unmounted, to be able to assemble them easily into my energy chains. The chains are not finished yet, but I could not resist to try out. The Cable-Combs work very good, no catching of sleeve or anything like that. Don’t worry about the gap between the three cables at the outer sides, they’re needed to let room for the fibre optics.









The sleeving of the USB3.0 was a problem. I did not want to cut up the cable, but the connectors are too big for any MDPC-X sleeve. Luckily, I had some old Phobya Sleeve lying around. It has high stretching capabilities, and looks quite similar to the MDPC-X. Main disadvantage is the coarse mesh, you can easily see through. But since the cables are black this isn’t a big problem.
Without a chance to use any shrinking tube, I used 2k-glue to cast the end of the sleeve to the connector.





post #18 of 102
Thread Starter 
I’m going to use two O-rings for each glass tube of the reservoir. The ones I bought first are made out of NBR with a hardness of 70 Shore-A. This is too much for my glass tubes, I can’t press them in. And I am too afraid of breaking them. So I bought softer O-rings with 50 Shore-A, and now it fits really good.



The upper end of the glass tubes will end into a top part made out of aluminium (not manufactured yet). This top part will be screwed onto a top plate with a sealing between both. The top plate contains holes for refilling the cooling fluid. I made it out of white PET. Later it will be masked with a foil to look like black aluminium. The sealing is a foam rubber sealing cord.



I have finished most of the aluminium profiles used to hold the case together. Not sure if I am going to sand and re-anodize them.
I flattened the mainboard back plate to fit into the MDF-plate.



My plans for the GPU are to get a cleaner look by hiding the PCI-E power cables. A plate made out of PMMA with a cable duct, covered by a plate made out of aluminium are going to do the job. The PMMA plate will be illuminated by two RGB-LEDs.








Edited by mrmaler - 4/30/17 at 2:11am
post #19 of 102
Thread Starter 
Time to use the router again!



Got a problem while shaping the opening for the front panel. I could not reach the deeper areas with mounted guidance of the router. So I had to do them free handed. I don’t like the result but don’t know if I should risk damaging the main contour.



Front panel mounted, but backside front. Don’t want to get scratches on the grinding pattern.



Next step was to cut the panel for power and network cable. It too is made from 2 mm stainless steel, with a nice grinding pattern on it. The openings for the cable will be sanded and filled to look better.





post #20 of 102
Great work! can't wait to see more!
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