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TEC1-12730 alternative

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Sorry dear Overclockers, I am a newbie here. Question I have (like a splinter in my mind): Is anything more powerful than TEC1-12730 exists? I know the question is kind of naive, but as I've said, I just joined the the team..., so sorry if off-topic, and thank you all in advance if any reply...
post #2 of 12
my first question is this how strong do you think it is?

I have 12726 = 251watts
I have 12730 = 288watts
I have 12740 = 332watts

these are the real measured values from a wall watt meter at 14.8volts of the ones I own not the ebay values.

while I do have several 127 TEC's I do not use them as there are TEC's just as power full that use half the AMP's

199 TEC's are better.

second question, what is the TEC project that you have built already, or that you are planning to build?
Edited by toolmaker03 - 4/27/17 at 10:59am
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thank you Mr. ToolMaker, appreciate your help. ...sure, looks strong. But, I've tried to find TEC1-19940 anywhere, unfortunately was not able to :-( May you can recommend the seller or a direction where to find... Thank you in advance!
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
I am just going to build... Currently, I am at the very beginning... The idea is to use two open loops, one for CPU & mosfets, and another one for peltiers... I do not need to do anything with GPU, I am not a gamer...
post #5 of 12

there are a few that you might be interested in.

what kind of water blocks are you planning to use to cool the TEC's?

is this going to be a direct mount to the CPU and motherboard, or is this going to be a water chiller?
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Manny thanks! I am not going to do direct mount. My idea is to purchase a dozen not expensive CPU water-blocks from China, and make a collection of sandwiches connected in parallel. Be so kind to correct me if I am going to wrong direction... Thank you again.
post #7 of 12

no, that is a good way to do it. I am using 18 to be exact. thumb.gif

I would stay away from the cheap china CPU water blocks, as they are the only water blocks that I am replacing on my build.

Byuski is about as cheap as I would go if where you. so the $20.00 blocks are out of the question as they will not work for this. byuski are about $40.00 water blocks and look for nicer ones on sell.

I got 6 magic cool CPU water blocks for $20.00 each on clearance. so if your patient the deals can be found.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Oh..., MAN... U N B E L I V A B L E !!! ...is it OK if I ask a small piece of consultancy later, while building my simplified analog of your Monster?
post #9 of 12
sure. thumb.gif

using CPU water blocks, does also limit the size of the TEC 's that can be used with them.

40mm X 40mm TEC's would be ideal for CPU water blocks.

50mm X 50mm is the largest that I would go, and that is even pushing it, I get some flack for using 50mm TEC's on CPU water blocks, as they are the same size as the water blocks.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 4/27/17 at 12:23pm
post #10 of 12
Originally Posted by smithus View Post

Thank you Mr. ToolMaker, appreciate your help. ...sure, looks strong. But, I've tried to find TEC1-19940 anywhere, unfortunately was not able to :-( May you can recommend the seller or a direction where to find... Thank you in advance!

I had this same problem, couldn't find it anywhere. Thermonamic makes this TEC and it can be purchased directly from them via email. You can also enter an inquiry on Alibaba which they will respond to. Whatever you feel more comfortable with.

Here's the email for sales:

Here's the Alibaba page:

The strongest/best suited to computer chilling peltiers I have found are:

TEC1-19940 - By Thermonamic, purchase via direct contact
TEC1-19928 - By Custom Thermoelectric (referred to as CTE here), purchase via their website here.

Also, some quotes for further explanations on calculations with TECs and interpreting charts to help you figure out what you'll need if you don't know already (Warning, there's a lot of text here biggrin.gif ): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by Skyl3r View Post

What I'm gonna recommend to you is that you go to Custom Thermoelectric's website and browse through this table:

I'll give you an example of what to expect. Keep in mind, these are theoretical numbers if everything was perfect. Typically performance will be lower. They have a 40x40mm 225w TEC and a 62x62mm 225w TEC. The 40x40mm won't require any cold plates or anything in addition to the waterblocks on it, so that's what I would use.
Here's the charts associated with that peltier:

If you are planning to power it with a 12v PSU (computer power supply or a switching power supply), look at the Volts Vs Amps chart on the right. Find 12v and trace it over until you hit a line, then look for the corresponding amps for that voltage.

So looking at this, you could expect a range of 6 to 8 amps of draw depending on the heat load to the cold side. We can now figure out what a best case scenario delta temperature would be (how much colder the peltier can hold the cold side in relation to the hotside). We'll use your 140w figure.

In the picture above I marked the 6 to 8 amp range for you. You can see from the legend on the right that we're looking at about 0c to 10c delta temperature running at 12v.
Now, that doesn't mean 10c below ambient, it means up to 10c below the hot side of the peltier temperature.

The hot side of the peltier is going to be the amount of power the peltier is drawing to pump heat from the cold side combined with the load of heat on the cold side.

So that's:

12v * 8a (Peltier power) + 140w (Graphics card) = 236w.

That means if you wanted that 10c to mean 10 degrees below ambient, you would have to cool 236w to ambient. That'll be something like 2 360mm radiators.

Now, you can certainly go colder. I'll give you a quick example with a higher power TEC:


12v * 14a + 140w = 308w
~25c max dT at load

In addition I'll quote a post I wrote that goes over more details and such.
Originally Posted by Skyl3r View Post

The hot side heat load should be calculated by:
Cold side heat load(W) + V * A

As you say, if you are supplying 12v, the peltier would draw above 12.5a, which gives you (as you pointed out) 150w.
Now if your cold side is managing a heat load of 80w, then you have a total heat load:

80w + 150w = 230w

Now typically you can make a cold side estimate of the pelt by using a Coefficient of Performance (COP) chart. The COP is calculated by dividing the watts of cooling (Qc) by the watts required to cool (W or Work). You'll typically see charts with COP vs Amps. CTE, who makes the 400w pelt Puck referenced, does it a little different. They have a Volts vs Amps chart and a Qc vs Amps chart.
The charts are here:

In the above picture, I've drawn lines on to the chart to clearly show how you would go from knowing that you will supply 12v to finding the max amp draw you could expect (right chart).
Then you can use that amp draw to find the delta temperature (dT) at a given cold side heatload.

Now, the actual cold side temperature (Tc) of the peltier is calculated by Th - dT. What this tells us is the delta temperature is relative to the hot side. So if the hot side is running at 60c because you only have one 360mm radiator on it, then assuming the 80w of load and perfect efficiency, you would only have a cold side temperature of 30c.
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

Just to clarify skylers diagram.The amps that the TEC pulls at a given voltage is dependent on the delta across the TEC, the higher the delta, the lower the amps/power consumption, the lower the delta, the higher the amps/power consumption.

As the maximum delta is reached when there is no heat load applied to the cold side, we can put the minimum amperage the TEC will use at 12v at 0QcW, 6 amps. The maximum amps that the TEC will pull is at Qmax with 0*c dT, so for 12v that is 165w Qmax and 0*c dT, like this

from that, you can extrapolate dT, Qc and power consumption of the TEC.

One caveat though, because that TEC can't reach dT Max at 12v it would be a slightly different line than what I have drawn, the spec sheets are not accurate enough to make perfect estimations so real world results will differ.

To effectively cool a GPU with a heat load of 140w and have a decent delta, you usually need the Qmax of the TEC to be at least double the heat load, ie 280w Qmax TEC, but actually I would recommend a 400w Qmax TEC (ebay tec's advertise power consumption, not Qmax, their Qmax is much lower than their power consumption, Custom Thermo Electric (CTE) lists Qmax, so if you want to buy a TEC from ebay, compare the volts, amps, couple count and size of the ebay tec to the CTE tec and that will give you an approximate idea of how good the ebay TEC is, minus the lesser quality of ebay TEC's of course.)

to help with deciphering ebay TEC's couple count of a TEC directly relates to it's voltage, ie a TEC 12715 would be a 15v, 15amp TEC, the 127 is the couple count, 127 couples = 15v, the 15 is the amps. ebay is mostly 127xx TEC's, there are some 199xx TEC's on ebay though, these are 24v.

TEC's perform best when run at 50-70% of their max voltage, for this reason, if you are using a 12v ATX PSU to power the TEC, I would try to buy a 199xx TEC and avoid 127xx TEC's, the 199xx TEC's are much more efficient at 12v than 127xx TEC's

The CTE 400w Qmax TEC at 12v is perfect for chilling a 140w GPU, but it is a 62x62mm TEC, so you need special water blocks, you could try to use 2 of the 225w 40x40mm TEC's, but that means more water blocks.

Edited by Skyl3r - 5/1/17 at 8:53am
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