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Help on tube routing - Page 3

post #21 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jura11 View Post


Hi there

This Male to Female is extension which I used mainly on radiator as I'm running fans in push pull configuration, because if you will be using normal 45° fitting you will be unable fit there this fitting alone without the extension, same 45° fitting I'm using on GPU with extension I think I've used only 10 or 15mm which has been enough

Male to Male is good if you are need to fit as in above case with Ball valve or if you want to connect two pumps or pump with reservoir etc

I will do pictures of my loop how it looks later today when I will have bit more time


Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura

 

Oh, I understand you now. I actually knew about that, I just thought we were talking about mainly the connecting the pump to reservoir bit, hence the confusion. Why did you need an extender fitting on your GPU though?

 

If you use a straight 45deg fitting, can you screw them in such a way that you can still control which direction they end up to?

 

Yeah, pictures would be nice :thumb:

post #22 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Oh, I understand you now. I actually knew about that, I just thought we were talking about mainly the connecting the pump to reservoir bit, hence the confusion. Why did you need an extender fitting on your GPU though?

If you use a straight 45deg fitting, can you screw them in such a way that you can still control which direction they end up to?

Yeah, pictures would be nice thumb.gif

Hi there

Here is my finished loop and as you can see I've used Male to Female extension with 45 degree fitting and XSPC 13/10 Compression Fitting,same I've used on radiator



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura
     
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post #23 of 64
Thread Starter 

@Gunderman456 and @cmpxchg8b

 

As promised, here are some pics of some potential tube routing that I can think of:

 

1.) With front 280mm GTS Xflow and 360mm GTS Uflow

 

1.a

 

1.b

 

 

2.) With front 280mm GTS Uflow and 360mm GTS Uflow

 

2.a

 

2.b

 

Thoughts?

post #24 of 64
Have as few sharp bends as possible, as few long uphill runs as possible, and also focus on the cleanest design possible that will allow you to get your hands in there.
post #25 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinFX View Post

Have as few sharp bends as possible, as few long uphill runs as possible, and also focus on the cleanest design possible that will allow you to get your hands in there.

 

Right, those are the normal goals of doing watercooling loops. But then I'm not too, should we say, artistic/creative of a person which is why I want to pick your brains out in hopes of achieving a good layout.

post #26 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinFX View Post

... as few long uphill runs as possible ...

There's nothing wrong with long uphill runs specifically. No more than with long downhill runs, anyway. Long runs are better avoided, generally speaking, for the sake of tidiness, restriction, and, in case of soft tubing, plasticiser leeching.
post #27 of 64
I have all XSPC parts in my build currently except the pump that went out and was replaced with a swiftech and an Aqua tuning res.
I have quite a bit of fittings but i only had 1 45 degree rotary leak on me during this last revision I performed on the loop.

What tubing are you going with? colored or clear?
I ended up going with EK ZMT (zero maintenance tubing) it is an industrial grade rubber tubing that obviously wont leech plasticizer because it's not plastic. down side is it is flat black and you can't see through it so if you're going for a color scheme other than black + something else it may not be the best visual tubing for you.

As far as the run goes my big concern is getting all the tubes to navigate properly at the top where the 2 rads meet, could be very challenging depending on the case you are using.
here's my setup currently.


top 240 rad, rear 120, and bottom 240. no front rad (I have hard drives there )
case is a phanteks enthoo pro
post #28 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by jura11 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Right. Based on what I'm reading, they recommend to be cautious of putting lateral stress on rotary fittings. Does that mean to always put more slack than normal on the tube when connecting it to a rotary fitting?


I'm linking XSPC fittings for their price. Have you used XSPC rotary fittings as well? How was your experience with them?

Why would you say PrimoFlex tubing needs replacement more often? I'm just curious as I'll probably go with the Mayhems Ultraclear tubing anyway for the reason that they're priced better.

For the M-to-M fitting, would it be better to get a rotary one so that I can have more movement of either res or pump? I'm also wondering, how do you untighten/tighten the fitting to the two components if it's rotary? Wouldn't it just rotate (not having a tightening/untightening effect) while doing so?

I will definitely put a drain valve. Correct me if I'm wrong, that should be in the lowest point of the loop and used with a T-splitter and a ball valve, right?

Hi there

I've not used to the date XSPC rotary compression fittings,only Barrow,Alphacool and Barrow hands down for price they're great fittings and no leaking and no problems with them.

PrimoFlex tubing how to say, have used as well and friend used, which started to yellowing after few months, in my friend loop this tubing has been used for 5 months and his tubing has turned to almost yellow color plus he have problems with leaching as well with their tubing and he is now using like I'm using Mayhem tubing

You can use 10-15mm extension Male to Female extension(they're several versions of them plus there is Anti-Twist version) or this one which I'm using on like radiator and GPU

https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-male-to-female-anti-twist-rotary-adaptor-fitting-black-txyz-a01.html

Yup ball valve will be best there, you will need 2 or 3 way depends on yours plans and loop

Something like this what I've used or done on my loop, there are only used Barrow fittings/parts, G1/4 male to male extension Anti-Twist and Barrow Ball Valve




Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura

Im using XSPC rotary fittings right now in my loop and havet had any issues out of them and using xspc compression fittings also my only gripe is they dont really get real tight to the rads or blocks less threads i guess compared to older barbs so need to be extra careful and make sure they are really tight.
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post #29 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderTheGoober View Post

I have all XSPC parts in my build currently except the pump that went out and was replaced with a swiftech and an Aqua tuning res.
I have quite a bit of fittings but i only had 1 45 degree rotary leak on me during this last revision I performed on the loop.

What tubing are you going with? colored or clear?
I ended up going with EK ZMT (zero maintenance tubing) it is an industrial grade rubber tubing that obviously wont leech plasticizer because it's not plastic. down side is it is flat black and you can't see through it so if you're going for a color scheme other than black + something else it may not be the best visual tubing for you.

As far as the run goes my big concern is getting all the tubes to navigate properly at the top where the 2 rads meet, could be very challenging depending on the case you are using.
here's my setup currently.


top 240 rad, rear 120, and bottom 240. no front rad (I have hard drives there )
case is a phanteks enthoo pro

I'll be using Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case. Which of the pics I've posted do you think is the most practical to go with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bal3Wolf View Post

Im using XSPC rotary fittings right now in my loop and havet had any issues out of them and using xspc compression fittings also my only gripe is they dont really get real tight to the rads or blocks less threads i guess compared to older barbs so need to be extra careful and make sure they are really tight.

Hmm, interesting. I've read good feedback regarding the XSPC's but didn't knoe that they tend to be loose. Do you only hand-tighten them or do you use a tool to give them that extra umph? Can you recommend other fittings brand that is good?
post #30 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderTheGoober View Post

I have all XSPC parts in my build currently except the pump that went out and was replaced with a swiftech and an Aqua tuning res.
I have quite a bit of fittings but i only had 1 45 degree rotary leak on me during this last revision I performed on the loop.

What tubing are you going with? colored or clear?
I ended up going with EK ZMT (zero maintenance tubing) it is an industrial grade rubber tubing that obviously wont leech plasticizer because it's not plastic. down side is it is flat black and you can't see through it so if you're going for a color scheme other than black + something else it may not be the best visual tubing for you.

As far as the run goes my big concern is getting all the tubes to navigate properly at the top where the 2 rads meet, could be very challenging depending on the case you are using.
here's my setup currently.


top 240 rad, rear 120, and bottom 240. no front rad (I have hard drives there )
case is a phanteks enthoo pro

I'll be using Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case. Which of the pics I've posted do you think is the most practical to go with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bal3Wolf View Post

Im using XSPC rotary fittings right now in my loop and havet had any issues out of them and using xspc compression fittings also my only gripe is they dont really get real tight to the rads or blocks less threads i guess compared to older barbs so need to be extra careful and make sure they are really tight.

Hmm, interesting. I've read good feedback regarding the XSPC's but didn't knoe that they tend to be loose. Do you only hand-tighten them or do you use a tool to give them that extra umph? Can you recommend other fittings brand that is good?

Ones i got you use a coin to tighten them down they just dont seem to get as tight as barbs to mei had a few come back out of the fitting of my rads the compression stays tight on the tubing tho.
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