Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Sponsored Builds & Case Mods › [Sponsored] Baby Blue - Breaking Bad themed ITX Build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Sponsored] Baby Blue - Breaking Bad themed ITX Build - Page 2

post #11 of 26
Subbed tongue.gif
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k Evga z87 Stinger mITX Evga gtx 980 sc acx Crucial Ballstix Ellite 2x8gb 1866mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 pro 512gb Nice joke bruh Corsair h100i gtx Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus vs228 Poker 2 mx red SilverStone SX600-G Compact Splash #55 
MouseMouse Pad
Nixeus Revel black Steelseries Qck M 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k Evga z87 Stinger mITX Evga gtx 980 sc acx Crucial Ballstix Ellite 2x8gb 1866mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 pro 512gb Nice joke bruh Corsair h100i gtx Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus vs228 Poker 2 mx red SilverStone SX600-G Compact Splash #55 
MouseMouse Pad
Nixeus Revel black Steelseries Qck M 
  hide details  
Reply
post #12 of 26
Love that raw brushed metal look. Count me in for this!
post #13 of 26
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys, glad you like it smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by colinreay View Post

Do you think you'll be using the Prusa for this project? I love seeing those bad boys in action!

Yeah i'm definitely going to use it for this build. Since i want the front cover to be illuminated from the back i plan to print a frame for the LEDs which will be mounted inside. We'll see how it turns out thumb.gif
post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, got a pretty big update today smile.gif

Before i start working on the inside of the case, i wanted to finish the exterior. Since the front cover and inlay are ready, let's go over to the backlighting. To create a smooth lighting i'm going to use the same concept as i used in the sLights from my previous builds. From bottom to top i'll need a frame, a backplate which reflects as much light as possible, the thick acrylic plate to break the light coming from the edges and the visible part, the inlay in this case. I use white LED stripes with a density of 120LEDs/m, these are really bright. Some people use standard clear 8 or 10mm acrylic plates and engrave a pattern to achieve a smooth light distribution. I never did it this way but i bought the so called EndLighten T from Evonik which is specially made for this purpose and distributes the incoming light from the edges very evenly. The reflecting backplate will be created with chrome/mirror wrap from Oracal, the best and cheapest way i can think of.

So all that's left is the frame and i'm not going to use angle profiles again - this time i want to make use of my new printer. I created a first design in CAD and this is what it looks like in Slic3r. Slic3r is an amazing tool to prepare your 3D models for printing. This is needed to set all the parameters before printing, so the printer knows what to do. Even for a beginner like me pretty easy to use!

zXrFIgN.jpg

First i wanted to print this piece with PLA, one of the most common printer filaments which is recommended for beginners because chances of failing your prints are pretty low. On the downside PLA starts to lose stability at 60°C, that's why i decided to use ABS. Everything went fine, to keep the smell of molted ABS out of my room i kept the window open all the time. Right here it's printing the infill, a structure generated by Slice3r to save time and material while still maintaining the stability.

rSILpK6.jpg

But then the open window ruined my print... 5 hours after the start it got late and cold outside, the heated bed keeps the object at around 100°C, the cold air from outside cools it down at the surface. The temperature difference leads to tension inside the object which then leads to the so called "warping".

WNhCOZx.jpg

There are some ways to correct a warped print afterwards, but in addition i also got a layer shift because i had the printer running at a too high speed. The whole print got shifted about 5mm and i aborted the print after nearly 6 hours and went to bed a bit frustrated.

The next day i decided to print it in PLA, i will try ABS with smaller prints first to get the hang of it. The LEDs will get warm, but not that warm so i won't have to worry about the PLA losing it's stability. I also redesigned the frame to save some material and time.

143vss9.jpg

YOi9SR3.jpg

Riy10r8.jpg

This time it didn't even take 3 hours and i had no problems at all, the print turned out perfect.

f9XC3wN.jpg

To secure the frame later i designed hexagonal recesses to put in M3 nuts.

JPxxeAI.jpg

Let's go over to the front part of the case, still needs some preparing.

r6VrbGd.jpg

Kt54iQ9.jpg

38xRnoT.jpg

After sanding i did a test fit.

mC0YSvt.jpg

ulDGkQb.jpg

xAcIEwP.jpg

In the meantime i printed a 1mm thick plate which will be used as the backplate later.

efq9pwu.jpg

9N4OLig.jpg

Outside i went on with the distribution plate. I bought it last year already and had other measurements back then, time to adjust this.

dv05hO6.jpg

Another test fit.

WUKbkal.jpg

After cutting the plate i needed to sand and polish the edge again.

yDwq5nA.jpg

RdN5R41.jpg

vYHV5He.jpg

This is what it looks combined.

7DiL6Y7.jpg

Inside again i prepared the LED stripes.

zAmIRUg.jpg

lRUhN3x.jpg

E31EiHo.jpg

The little canals i left in the frame will be used for the cables, these fit in there perfectly.

j0wOucu.jpg

zwjYrFv.jpg

Time to put the chrome wrap on the backplate..

Mu5NoqS.jpg

C47bRFc.jpg

kOWDpwY.jpg

rJYdmyS.jpg

And another test before i put everything together. You notice i test these things very often, but i rather take the time to do so than to take it apart later when something doesn't work.

gUrgwBT.jpg

With the distribution plate installed:

d4IKODA.jpg

Everything works, let's put it together.

NAFx5sZ.jpg

HAAJQwF.jpg

8GGw8IQ.jpg

And the result looks amazing!

ZjgvFk5.jpg

Last step, cable sleeving..

uHOMtdN.jpg

and done!

zEqBAeF.jpg

I really enjoy working with the printer. It's a cool gadget but when you use it for parts like this it turns into a powerfull tool and i'm looking forward to use it more often in future.
post #15 of 26
very interesting read, and very cool build.
Current Rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 GA-990FX-GAMING Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X G. Skill Trident  
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Sandisk sata ssd Windows 10 home Corsair Rm650x define r5 
Other
Fiber 1g/1g internet 
  hide details  
Reply
Current Rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 GA-990FX-GAMING Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X G. Skill Trident  
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Sandisk sata ssd Windows 10 home Corsair Rm650x define r5 
Other
Fiber 1g/1g internet 
  hide details  
Reply
post #16 of 26
Really cool build man! Great work so far on it.
post #17 of 26
Subbed!

Awesome build log. The posts and photos are excellent quality and make for some great reading material! Keep up the informative updates
M1 Abrams
(18 items)
 
Asus G53
(0 items)
Asus G771
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930K Asus Sabertooth X79 Geforce GTX 780 EVGA SC 3GB + XSPC Waterblock Patriot Viper 3 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
SAMSUNG 840 Series 250GB XIGMATEK Dark Knight II Night Hawk Edition  XSPC 360mm radiator, Raystorm CPU block, D5 pump Windows 10 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung 2233RZ 22" 120hz QNIX QX2710 27" 100hz Logitech g710+ Corsair AX850  
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Military Green (Cu... Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Mouse Rug Bose Companion III's Speakers 
AudioAudio
Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 4710MQ Stock OEM Asus laptop board? Nvidia GTX860M 12GB DDR3L  
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Crucial M550 256GB SSD 750GB HDD 7200rpm Windows 8.1 17.3" IPS display (LGD046C) 
  hide details  
Reply
M1 Abrams
(18 items)
 
Asus G53
(0 items)
Asus G771
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930K Asus Sabertooth X79 Geforce GTX 780 EVGA SC 3GB + XSPC Waterblock Patriot Viper 3 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
SAMSUNG 840 Series 250GB XIGMATEK Dark Knight II Night Hawk Edition  XSPC 360mm radiator, Raystorm CPU block, D5 pump Windows 10 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung 2233RZ 22" 120hz QNIX QX2710 27" 100hz Logitech g710+ Corsair AX850  
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Military Green (Cu... Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Mouse Rug Bose Companion III's Speakers 
AudioAudio
Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 4710MQ Stock OEM Asus laptop board? Nvidia GTX860M 12GB DDR3L  
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Crucial M550 256GB SSD 750GB HDD 7200rpm Windows 8.1 17.3" IPS display (LGD046C) 
  hide details  
Reply
post #18 of 26
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, got another small update. This time i also want you to help me with a decision, more at the end of this post.

Also thanks for the kind words, i'm glad you all like what i'm doing!

Before i start installing all the aluminium covers inside the case i had to finish the illuminated structural formula.
I created an Inlay in CAD using the files which were used for the CNC milling.
To make the inlay translucent i use PETG filament for this print. It will lose a bit of its clarity during the print but that's fine.



The first layer still looks pretty clear.



But as soon as it starts printing more layers it gets more "milky".



Unfortunately the print failed as the freshly printed PETG didn't stick to the layer underneath.
I changed some printing parameters and tried til it failed again. Always a challenge to get good results with a new type of filament.





After a few tries it worked and the print got finished without problems. Still need to tweak the settings in future but for now this will do the job.



I had to sand some edges since the inlay didn't fit properly.







After that was done i took the new PSU cover and put it into the case to see how much space i have behind it.
I wasn't sure if i was able to build another lightbox because i only have a few mm.





I also hadn't enough Endlighten T acrylic anymore to make a rectangular lightbox. I could've cut the acrylic at an angle but that might lead to unequally illumination.

So i ordered a piece of EL foil, an inverter and some filter foil from lee filters.



After installing and testing the EL foil i noticed that it wasn't as bright as i expected .





Usually i would just leave it as it is, it's not that bright during the day but enough when it get's darker. I also have everything here so why not use it.
But when i was postprocessing these photos i found one that i took while searching for the right filter foil. I used my smartphone LED for the backlighting and that created a very different effect.
The inlay gets more depth and looks like it's made out of crystals.



What do you guys think? EL Foil for smooth backlighting or the LED variant to make it look more crystalline?
post #19 of 26
i think either would look good, but the crystalline look would be pretty cool if it got a fairly even light distribution still.
Current Rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 GA-990FX-GAMING Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X G. Skill Trident  
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Sandisk sata ssd Windows 10 home Corsair Rm650x define r5 
Other
Fiber 1g/1g internet 
  hide details  
Reply
Current Rig
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 GA-990FX-GAMING Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X G. Skill Trident  
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Sandisk sata ssd Windows 10 home Corsair Rm650x define r5 
Other
Fiber 1g/1g internet 
  hide details  
Reply
post #20 of 26
Thread Starter 
I'm back with a small update. Took some time since i was in vacation but now i can continue working on it.
Aquatuning sent me a new Light Panel for the XPX CPU Cooler since the one i have has blue instead of white LEDs.
To make it fit better i needed the white LED so i can use the filter foil.

With the colour problem solved i wanted to create a similar effect as with the illuminated 3d printed inlay i showed you in the last update.
The plan is to reprint the exisiting inlay with PETG filament. To make this work i had to take exact measurements and create the new model in CAD.





What you see here is the support structure generated in Slic3r, after the print you remove it.



Let's see if it fits and put it back together.





Definitely looks much better now.

Today i received the last parts for the custom sleeved cables. I'm going with extensions for this build since it's faster and uses less material.



For the next update i plan to finish the cables and the backlit aluminium cover, so i can start installing everything and build the water cooling loop.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Sponsored Builds & Case Mods
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Sponsored Builds & Case Mods › [Sponsored] Baby Blue - Breaking Bad themed ITX Build