Is there any news about getting a water block for the EVGA 1080 TI SC2? (11G-P4-6593)
It doesn't use the reference PCB so none of the current blocks will work with it. I can't possibly be the only one wanting one.
I compared pictures of the reference pcb to the SC2 and the Vrm section, mounting holes and 98% of the PCB are identical. They moved the voltage control chips to the back side and added 9 small Thermal Sensors. Since the ICX cooler is Identical for the SC Black(Ref board) and SC2 the water block should work. It's the back plate that might be a problem.
I compared pictures of the reference pcb to the SC2 and the Vrm section, mounting holes and 98% of the PCB are identical. They moved the voltage control chips to the back side and added 9 small Thermal Sensors. Since the ICX cooler is Identical for the SC Black(Ref board) and SC2 the water block should work. It's the back plate that might be a problem.
I compared pictures of the reference pcb to the SC2 and the Vrm section, mounting holes and 98% of the PCB are identical. They moved the voltage control chips to the back side and added 9 small Thermal Sensors. Since the ICX cooler is Identical for the SC Black(Ref board) and SC2 the water block should work. It's the back plate that might be a problem.
Here is a picture of new fe waterblock, looks like there is nothing important next to this fan header (near the ek sticker on the waterblock), it is possible to make it compatible with a simple mod to the waterblock or to the card
Well that's rather disappointing. I came here in search of information regarding the waterblock to use. I am sure there will be more people buying these cards, please reconsider.
Honestly, if they are refusing to release a block I'll just de-solder that fan connector and use the EK FE block instead as is seems to match the layout bar the connector.
I can not understand this reasoning of not wanting to get a waterblock for this card and suddenly oblige those who buy it to integrate it in their watercooling configuration, to resell it to buy a sc black or FTW3 ....
I am not sure I understood your reply correctly, but I assume you are asking why I did not get a card with a waterblock from the beginning? Well Let's say I made a mistake. I was thinking the hybrid cooling solution (for me) would be ideal. But after looking around these forums I realized I would like to try and build my own custom loop. Thus unfortunately i'm facing the issue with waterblock now.
Whats frustrating is that nvidia does have a waterblock for this card as evidenced by them selling hydrocopper version. However I suspect the hydrocoper version of the SC2 card actually comes without that fan header so that the can use the standard waterblock on it. That's why they don't want to sell it separately, it would not be compatible with unmodded card. Just my opinion...
Whats frustrating is that nvidia does have a waterblock for this card as evidenced by them selling hydrocopper version. However I suspect the hydrocoper version of the SC2 card actually comes without that fan header so that the can use the standard waterblock on it. That's why they don't want to sell it separately, it would not be compatible with unmodded card. Just my opinion...
This was my exact question to EVGA support. If or when this block is released, will it fit our SC2 cards as I think they just removed the second header and used the titan X block. So, let's wait and see.
NOTE: Author removes the 4pin connector near DVI slot that WILL interfere with the block.
He also proceeds to remove DVI port itself to convert the card into single slot card - not necessary in most cases.
In addition he removes the 6pin connector near the power connectors that DOES interfere with his waterblock. It is possible to also de-solder the connectors using just a big blob of solder and preserve the connector. OR
It is also possible to modify the waterblock itself. Since that part is acetal it could be dremelled out or filed out. I mean whats the most expensive part here? Card or the block?
Also from my "research notes" while getting ready to convert my card into a water-cooled contraption:
EK waterblocks and backplates that should fit the modified card
That is one savage mod!!!
I think the removal of dvi port and 6 pin connector near the power connector was a bit too much. Due to the fact that the waterblock top is either acrilic or acetal it can be easily dremmeld or drilled for these connectors.
As for the fan header - it could be gently bent and isolated with either hot glue, nail vanish, electrical tape or heatshrink so the modding process could be reversible
It is also possible to mod the waterblock
Soglasen. The waterblock doesn't actually interfere with the DVI connector so it does not need to be modded. The author just wanted to make it fit one slot
.
But yeah I reached the same conclusion about the pins. Block is cheaper, dremel the hell out of it, leave the 4pin and 6pin connectors as is.
That was brutal and painful, shocked if the card still works -- all those metal flakes could easily short something.
Its MUCH simpler and easier to de-solder the fan headers and it preserves warranty as you can solder them back in. Others have mentioned its much safer to mod the water block, but on the following blocks I believe there is metal where the bottom fan header is so it has to be removed.
Both the BYKSKI and BARROW Founder / Public edition will work:
Compatibility:
NVIDIA Founder version GTX1080
NVIDIA Founder version GTX1070
NVIDIA Founder version GTX1080TI
NVIDIA Founder version Pascal TITAN X
Will you post when you go ahead and dremel the block?
Very curious to know the result as I'm having the same situation but I'm a noob in open loop.
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